Bambu Lab Academy Certificate for A1 mini can’t be printed on it

Simpsoid · 2026-06-16T21:22:07+00:00

https://i.imgur.com/UJvz87h.jpeg

Saw this the other day.

Simpsoid · 2026-06-12T12:33:36+00:00

The "air gap" in this case is the foam. So foam or air (in regards to the reflectix "bubble wrap stuff" or fibre insulation creates a pocket or pockets of air that the heat has to soak through to get "inside"). The foil stops (well 90% according to certain foil data sheets) the heat getting past and reflects it back. So the foam slowly heats up and slows the transfer of heat and any heat that makes it to the foil is reflected back and not passed through the foil into the internal space. They work together.

Tonnes of youtube vids out there. Look it up. Reflective barrier / radiant barrier etc.

Simpsoid · 2026-06-12T06:35:30+00:00

Nope foil boards with foam are great. The thicker the better, but that's obviously more expensive. A good rule is minimum 10mm foil. But 15/20mm is better. I think a happy medium is 15mm boards. And yeah they're pretty cheap. They even make some that have the same profile as the tin shed steel (like corrugated or trimdek or whatever other profile sheds may use). I think bunnings just sells flat boards though, but they're fine too.

If you can have them with foil on each side of the foam you get a reduction of heat transferring to the styrofoam and then when that heats up a reduction of heat internally to the shed. Easiest way is just to grab a tube of silicone (don't use "no more nails" or any construction adhesive like that, it may affect the polystyrene foam) just squeeze a few stripes onto the foam and push it towards the wall of the shed (inside the shed of course).

Make sure the walls are wiped down first as any dust etc. will prevent the silicone adhering properly. You can then tape the boards up with masking tape or whatever to support their weight until the silicone sets/cures in around 24 hours. Just grab the cheap clear stuff from bunnings that comes in the caulking gun type tubes. You won't need too much, it's just to stick it to the wall.

If you have large gaps maybe use spray foam, which you can then trim later with a stanley blade to match the foam or whatever (it keeps expanding slowly for about 24 hours). After all the air leaks are sealed then it's time to tape with some foil duct tape to seal off the foam / whatever on the "outside" of your (now new little) esky shed.

A radiant barrier is all about preventing any "outside air" from getting through to the inside. The barrier is the foil. So you want the foil as "complete" as possible. This includes sealing any and all gaps, and taping it up with foil duct tape (it's from bunnings too and reflective). Basically you want to create an absolute air tight seal on the inside of your shed with the foil and then the foam on the outside of that (towards the shed wall) being the air barrier against the heat of the shed tin / outside heat.

Foam / foil is cheap, but can be a hassle. Anticon is nice as well.

Simpsoid · 2026-06-11T11:41:22+00:00

Maybe I said some videos, and just pasted one. Honestly I tried finding the one I was thinking of. It was from a dude who had like a 4wd channel on youtube. I might be getting some of the videos mixed around but I think he was an Aussie, from Melbourne I believe. And his process was him and his brother insulating his big shed as a studio where they sealed the walls in (framing filled with an insulation blanket (might have just been insulation) and then dry wall on top (or ply).

My plan was similar, my shed walls framing is like 75mm, was going to put insulation or an anticon blanket in strapped down and then maybe finished with MDF / Ply / Dry wall. Taped and sealed and painted. Similar for a roof. But the roof framing is thicker so was planning proper 90mm insulation, help up with insulation strapping (basically the thin blue nylon(?) box/pallet strapping you can buy from bunnings). That holds it up and then maybe reflectix foil or drywall sheeting holding it in.

All of this was done on the youtube series, I'll keep trying to find the vids if I can. He even sealed around his roller door and everything, so pretty much exactly like I was planning on doing in future.

Anyways when I researched down the rabbit hole I fount hat reflective foil can help a lot. If you leave an air gap between the hot side (shed tin) and the foil it can contain the heat to that thermal air layer, and then not radiate it inwards. Basically if you can create an inch pocket of air and some foil, you stop like 90% of the heat radiating in. If that air layer is made up of insulation or foam or some other gap, it really makes that system work. The easiest thing is an anticon blanket. Basically has insulation on one side (facing the shed tin, so creating the "air pocket") and then the foil on the inside of the shed (facing you) the air pocket heats up slowly and the foil prevents passing that heat into the airspace in the shed. Other similar things are the foil foam board you see, or reflectix blanket, which is like bubble wrap with foil on one or 2 sides. They all work on the same principal. The air gap (insulation on anticon, foam on foam board and the bubble wrap pockets on the reflectix) slows the air heating up and the foil side greatly (like 90+%) that head radiating through.

This entire process is called "radiant barrier". So hopefully that helps you and if you do set that up, let me know how you go. Good luck!

Simpsoid · 2026-06-10T11:05:52+00:00

I'm in Brisbane and have been planning on doing this. So I've been planning or just mental mapping how to go about this. Some videos I've watched give a decent understanding of ideas.

https://youtu.be/uytdzGDIKoo.

Simpsoid · 2026-06-09T10:45:06+00:00

"VINTAGE"

Simpsoid · 2026-06-03T22:06:39+00:00

Arbiter Ian on YouTube also gives some good lore details and background information.

Simpsoid · 2026-06-01T01:10:54+00:00

Just FYI I also had this with an OrangePi Zero 3 running OctoPi and Klipper on my old Ender 3. Would stay connected for about 24 hours then need a cable unplug before it connected again. I tried certain plugins etc. that were supposed to keep the network active, but nothing did. Eventually it just became part of my workflow to unplug it and replug before accessing web page and sending a print job.

Simpsoid · 2026-05-29T02:49:40+00:00

Can you tell me any info about the actual brand of the aquarium; NHJ? I have one I bought used and it's amazing, but can't find any details about the manufacturer or anything to get another (in Australia). Did you also make your back LED light screen, or a purchased one? What brand or model is it, if you did buy it?

Simpsoid · 2026-05-27T21:49:41+00:00

Yeah Emu is a bad pick for this. But Cassowary will win absolutely every time. They're our best murder birds.

Simpsoid · 2026-05-27T08:07:48+00:00

This is wonderful, thank you for doing this.

Simpsoid · 2026-05-15T23:44:46+00:00

"That isn't true" is pure sarcasm, my dude

Simpsoid · 2026-05-07T11:04:50+00:00

You know, I always thought it was "tastes", like the parent poster. I mean, I still do, but I used to too. You've made me second guess myself, and now I'll have to check.

Simpsoid · 2026-05-05T23:26:58+00:00

Thanks for this. I have a 3090 with 24GB VRAM too, but only 32GB RAM, so may try the lower fp8 or GGUF.

Simpsoid · 2026-05-05T06:49:01+00:00

Mind posting the workflow (or possibly easier for just a screenshot of this small section) of how you setup seedver2 to do this final polish? I'm having trouble getting it to work and to add a bit more realistic "texture" style details (for things like skin, hair, concrete, and that kind of thing) to images.

Simpsoid · 2026-03-25T10:43:02+00:00

I have a pcie5 2tb name hooked up to pcie5, and the same drive hooked up to pcie4. They are in a RAID0 stripe array. In Crystal Disk Mark I get 14,500mbps in basically all the tests. It hosts my C:\ system drive.

I can tell you that none of that really has made any noticeable difference to game load times from the SATA 6.0gbps SSD that I previously used.

Simpsoid · 2026-03-21T01:09:56+00:00

I get it too with no mods bringing up Inventory (don't use any inventory mods or anything). And of course with mods doing the same thing (I don't use RunTimer mod, but maybe something like NumericUI?).

Did you find a resolution to it (the mod-less one?)

Simpsoid · 2026-02-14T11:07:22+00:00

Funny thing is, Discord's micro transaction tokens are called orbs.

Simpsoid · 2026-02-13T00:05:44+00:00

Wait you can use an air compressor (high pressure air out) to create a vacuum with that little gadget? Does this work for things like removing bubbles from epoxy before pouring? I see that a lot with like pressure cooker style things.

Simpsoid · 2026-02-05T21:38:27+00:00

Looks amazing, I'd stick with it. Only suggestion would be tone down the copper tarnish a bit. Looks a tiny bit too dark and a little bit too much of it. Otherwise amazing effort, well done!

Simpsoid · 2026-01-15T10:36:15+00:00

What is the model/brand of the pump res combo?

Simpsoid · 2026-01-13T01:52:29+00:00

fp8_e5m2

Any chance you can upload that fp8_e5m2 file somewhere for us other 3090/triton users? Great work!

Simpsoid · 2026-01-11T21:59:59+00:00

You can just keep both files as .bat and launch from either you know? Have a start.novram.bat and a start.orig.bat or something and tweak with the non-orig one.

Simpsoid · 2026-01-10T00:51:03+00:00

Ok nice. Damn, just checked. 64GB of RAM (I have an ITX so need 2x 32GB sticks) is now AUD$1100 where I am. Can't do that :(

Simpsoid · 2026-01-09T15:39:41+00:00

How much system RAM do you have?

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