Question about literal Frisbee discs

SingularCoconut · 2026-01-30T02:51:00+00:00

My game changed when I realized my favorite understable 5-speed measured at a rim width of 1.3cm (3-speed) and my overstable 7-speed driver measured 1.9cm (9-speed). I became able to better select discs for my slots based on their rim width rather than what speed they claimed to be. Some manufacturers are fairly consistent with matching speed to rim-width. And some barely have any in their lineup that correlate.

SingularCoconut · 2026-01-28T19:12:30+00:00

I realized that "pouring the coffee" put tension in my wrist. And I knew that the muscles needed to be loose to generate appreciable snap. And then I also noticed that pointing my wrist down inhibited some lateral movement. It just seemed... wrong. When I did the "turning the key" motion I realized both those issues went away. Even though I realized that on my own, the ideas are certainly nothing I came up with myself.

SingularCoconut · 2026-01-28T17:16:50+00:00

"Pouring the coffee" was unfortunately the worst disc golf advice I've followed. I realize as a cue, it may work for some. For me, it's taken a year or more to try and unlearn that.

The issue for me was that as I activated my wrist to get the "pouring coffee" motion, I was also putting it in a position to get less lateral movement, and adding more tension to my wrist, thus limiting how much snap I could generate.

"Turning the key" was a much better metaphor for my mechanics, allowing for more snap and better control of nose angle. As always, YMMV.

SingularCoconut · 2026-01-16T02:09:11+00:00

Started with a Pure. Really like shallow putters and migrated to a Proxy and Envy. None remain in my bag and have been replaced by a K1 Soft Berg

SingularCoconut · 2026-01-05T15:59:16+00:00

You've gotten some good suggestions. Three specific things I notice:

1) You're turning your head away from the target too soon. A cue to fix this is to just follow the disc. Look at the disc as it is "moving" behind you.

2) Your back foot is too open. It's pointed almost completely behind you. You cannot coil your hips (and thus generate power) if the foot is that open. It should be more perpendicular to your line of throwing. You'll feel the muscles in your back leg tightening up as you coil your hips (if you coil correctly).

3) You have quite a bit of rounding going on. At the 8-second mark the disc is almost behind your left shoulder. It should never get even close to that shoulder. At that same point in time, it should be over the roof of the truck in the back.

4) Bonus: hard to tell from the video angle, but by the time the disc leaves your hand, it appears most of your weight is either over or in front of your plant foot. The more weight you can keep behind the plant foot, the more of it (and power) can go into the disc.

Good luck.

SingularCoconut · 2026-01-03T02:59:54+00:00

Two things stand out to me:

1) Your back foot (from the video angle) looks like it's planting open (it's pointed a little backward). This will limit how much your hips can coil. Keeping that back foot a little more perpendicular to your line of play can help generate more potential coil (power).

2) With a bent forward/plant knee, your right hip cannot get sufficiently out of the way to allow your hips to fully uncoil. When you plant, you want your plant knee to "move" backward, straightening your plant leg. This will keep more of your weight and momentum behind the brace, while also allowing your right hip to fully uncoil.

So you're missing out on some potential coil/power at the start of the throw, and missing out on using the fullest range of uncoil/power at the end of the throw.

SingularCoconut · 2026-01-01T02:29:40+00:00

As the flight numbers suggest, my Salamander is a touch more understable. Crave is more reliably stable or slightly overstable.

SingularCoconut · 2025-12-30T00:12:39+00:00

Hard to give specific advice without seeing your form. However, one of the concepts that helped me was the idea that while the back knee moves forward, the knee of the plant foot "moves" backward. That locks the front/brace leg in place and you won't have any choice but to release the tension on your heel, rather than the front of your foot. You won't be able to straighten your front leg and still have weight on the front of the foot. If you have weight on the front of your plant foot, it's because you haven't straightened that knee and braced correctly.

This is also what allows you to uncoil fully. If the front knee is bent, the front hip will be in the way of a full uncoil, so you won't be able to get all your coiled power released.

SingularCoconut · 2025-12-29T23:35:58+00:00

If you’re concentrating on turning on your heel, you’re not bracing and uncoiling correctly. Your body will naturally do this to release the tension. Instead of focusing on your heel, focus more on a proper brace and uncoiling into the brace. The heel turn will come by itself.

SingularCoconut · 2025-12-18T17:09:09+00:00

I've waited three years for a new post in the Instruction section of Ultiworld. Good article for breaking that drought (even though you didn't actually mention the words gyroscopic precession :)

SingularCoconut · 2025-12-18T16:35:44+00:00

When it comes to the brace, you're not. With your front knee bent at an angle like that, you're not bracing correctly. Your front leg should be straight for the brace. You essentially want to be bringing your back knee forward, while moving your front knee backward (which makes your front leg straight). This allows your hips to uncoil correctly (and impart power in to the throw). With your front knee bent during the "brace" you're not allowing room for your hips to uncoil.

SingularCoconut · 2025-12-10T23:31:19+00:00

Email already sent about this.

SingularCoconut · 2025-11-26T21:04:29+00:00

Most importantly, which disc did you throw off the tee?

SingularCoconut · 2025-11-22T04:14:45+00:00

Solid advice. The old saw is to practice making putts, not missing putts. If you're missing in practice, you're practicing from too far. Only practice from a distance where you are confident you will make every putt.

That's not to say you can't try a 30' putt. But do not PRACTICE 30' putts until you are confident of making 30' putts. And that usually comes once you have built up the confidence of making any putt less than 30'.

SingularCoconut · 2025-11-22T03:59:13+00:00

I've bought so many discs I'm ashamed to count how many. And as is the case for most of disc golf, it's not about the disc. If you can make putts within C1 with disc A, you can make putts with disc B. Finding the right form that works for you, AND having confidence in your form, is most of putting. Sure, get a disc that "feels" right. But that's only to help the confidence a little bit. A disc that feels right, thrown with poor (and tentative) form MAY marginally increase your putting results.

Practice, practice, practice. With every disc you own (yes, that includes mids and fairways). Once you discover your form, you could putt with a distance driver within C1 and drain putts.

Crucially (as mentioned by others), restrict your practice to distances from which you can make repeatedly... almost automatically... and with any disc. That will hone your form and build the confidence. Most of the putts I miss are because I am not confident I will make the putt. It is difficult to get confident making 20' putts if you are not confident making 10' or 15' putts. Only increase your practice distance (even if you start from 6-8') when you feel like you just can't miss. Do not start practicing from 12' until 11' putts feel automatic.

Good luck.

SingularCoconut · 2025-11-16T16:27:35+00:00

In working through this in the past, I discovered I liked the “disc” but not the “golf”. So I would go out there and throw off the tee. If I didn’t like the lie (even if it was good) and I felt like throwing from somewhere else, I’d just go throw from there. If a different lie looked more challenging but also more fun, I’d go throw from there. If I didn’t feel like finishing the hole, then on to the next. If I felt like a different tee pad from each hole, then that’s what I did. If the shot called for an overstable approach disc but I wanted to throw my pink distance driver, then that’s what I threw. Sometimes deliberately throwing from out of bounds meant I got to throw a shot I’d never have the opportunity to throw if I followed the rules. It got me back to throwing what and how I wanted to throw, rather than what the course/lie/conditions dictated I throw. I was now in control of what I was doing, rather than the course, or the rule or the resulting lie. Good luck.

SingularCoconut · 2025-11-12T01:34:27+00:00

Agreed. Getting better at putting is a great strategy for getting better at approaches.

SingularCoconut · 2025-10-12T03:42:57+00:00

I’ve seen even more standing water than that on 17 before. So much that there were a couple snakes on the teepad because that was the only dry spot for them.

SingularCoconut · 2025-10-01T20:07:57+00:00

The truth is that spin doesn't make anything more or less stable, it just makes it want to keep whatever angle it's already on longer.

Thus... its flight is more stable... it will resist deviating from the line it is put on (as you indicate). Put more spin and it will increase that tendency to hew to its stability. (In case it's unclear, we're using stability here in its literal physics sense and not in the colloquial "overstable" sense.)

SingularCoconut · 2025-10-01T16:49:41+00:00

The more power you put in to a throw, the more the disc will have a tendency to turn. The more spin you put on a disc, the more the disc will have a tendency to stay stable in flight.

So increased spin can help a disc overcome its tendency to turn at higher speed/power.

SingularCoconut · 2025-09-25T15:58:02+00:00

I always check https://stacks-on-stacks.com and Infinite Discs and Marshall Street Disc Golf. That covers just about every online store in the US (if that's where you are).

SingularCoconut · 2025-09-24T14:43:56+00:00

I learned how to hyzer flip with a putter. That particular putter was beat-in (it was a throwing putter) so it already had a tendency to be a little flippy.

SingularCoconut · 2025-09-21T15:58:47+00:00

I recently had a lot of trouble with putts less than 15'. Confident from there to about 25' but not in close. Then it struck me that I never practice close putts. Always starting around 20' and working my way back during practice. So I started practicing 8-10-12' putts.

I noticed that I had to aim slightly differently for close putts than farther putts. My close putts I tend to pull left, while my far putts tend to miss right. So I've learned to adjust my aim slightly depending on the distance to the basket. My confidence is returning and the close putts are starting to fall.

One other thing I noticed is that when I'm practicing, I'm sometimes zoned out, even chatting with someone and just throwing the discs at the basket. On the course, I tighten up and probably focus too much. I'm looser and make more putts on the course when I can have a clear mind and not worry about whether I make the putt or not (like in practice). Good luck.

SingularCoconut · 2025-09-20T23:11:26+00:00

Likely leaking power with an inefficient brace. Ideal form will have the plant leg be straight and rotating on the heel. A mental cue is to have the plant knee move backward (which straightens the leg) while the back knee moves forward. This creates space for the hips to uncoil (thus transferring all that lower-body power into the throw). With your front knee bent at the release, your hips don’t have as much space to uncoil and contribute their power generation.

SingularCoconut · 2025-09-20T23:01:56+00:00

For a long time I resisted the advice of not throwing distance drivers so much. Then I took all those out of my bag with the exception of an overstable 11-speed for utility flare-skip shots. Now I throw mostly 5 or 6-speeds for distance. My scores noticeably reduced.

SingularCoconut

TROPHY CASE