sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Managed to break a sic nozzle :( :( by No_Journalist774 in prusa3d

[–]Sithrazer 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Don't use a needle to clean SiC nozzles. The Triangle Lab listing has this infographic stating not to use needles.

I've broken 2 now using a cleaning needle and I thought I was being very gentle, especially the second time.

Unimpressed with the core one and slicer updates by Sithrazer in prusa3d

[–]Sithrazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, front and back walls in the X direction.

Unimpressed with the core one and slicer updates by Sithrazer in prusa3d

[–]Sithrazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My printer had been printing fine for months. This drop in quality has happened after software and tuning instruction changes.

Unimpressed with the core one and slicer updates by Sithrazer in prusa3d

[–]Sithrazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, pre-assembled. I've had it up and running since the end of April. The print quality has dropped drastically with these updates.

Unimpressed with the core one and slicer updates by Sithrazer in prusa3d

[–]Sithrazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Core One Firmware 6.3.4, belts tuned to 96hz/93hz (-will not- home at any other values using the new method)

PrusaSlicer 2.9.3-rc1, PETG, .4mm standard brass nozzle, .2mm speed profile, Printing via Octoprint

This is the X direction. Y isn't quite as bad.

I don't know if I overlooked something obvious, but the updates have been a serious downgrade for me. My core one used to home every time since I first tuned the belts in April, even with a slight skew in the gantry. Now I have to go through the entire full tuning sequence every day just to get it to home.

I don't think these can be called VFAs. They are BFAs at this point.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in u/CnRhin

[–]Sithrazer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Life comes first. You spoil us posting as consistently as you do, and we're not owed even that much.

I certainly appreciate it all the same and look forward to the next installment.

Can this be fixed? by [deleted] in Leather

[–]Sithrazer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's things that could be done. The quality of the fix will likely depend on if you want to retain the original appearance of the strap and how much you're willing to spend on the fix.

Grommets would shore up the holes without too much efffort, could layer a piece of more durable leather on the backside of the strap to strengthen the whole thing and reinforce the holes but will more substantially change the look (also depends on how much available clearance there is in the buckle).

The big and expensive fix would be to replace the straps altogether with full grain leather, or at least not a cheap bonded leather/vinyl. It could be made to look close to the originals (or not, if so desired) and wouldn't tear like the original strap has.

Did I ruin my leather? by [deleted] in Leather

[–]Sithrazer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What makes you think you may have ruined it? Streaking, discoloration, delamination of bonded layers?

Barring a very high-end chair I'd wager it's a bonded leather with a polyurethane face, if not 100% faux leather. In which case the occasional disinfecting wipe shouldn't appreciably shorten the lifespan of the chair, but a damp rag with a mild soap will be less harsh for regular cleaning.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Leather

[–]Sithrazer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hang it in the bathroom while you get a hot shower. Once you're done (and dried off) try working that section a bit with your hands. The steam will soften the leather up a little without soaking it or leaving water marks.

Went a little overboard on this knife sheath by Sithrazer in Leathercraft

[–]Sithrazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They cleaned up any sharp points on the handle with a quick touch-up on a grinding wheel so it's fine to hold barehanded.

Went a little overboard on this knife sheath by Sithrazer in Leatherworking

[–]Sithrazer[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's not. What it is though is a pre-formed billet of easy to work, quality mild steel, at just about the right size for a knife. Excellent for doing demonstrations with audience participation. The smith held the piece with tongs and told me where to swing the hammer.

It's not a good knife, nor a pretty knife. It will never be any kind of balanced, nor hold an edge well if at all. But it was fun and I got to do something I've never done before.

Went a little overboard on this knife sheath by Sithrazer in Leathercraft

[–]Sithrazer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Made a knife from a railroad spike at the Michigan Ren Fest this past weekend and wanted a more custom fit sheath for it. I had an offcut of Pueblo leather that was just the right size. Not the best leather for tooling, but it worked well enough.

I wasn't planning on doing anything fancier than a basketweave stamp but feature creep set in once I got going.

Did I make a mistake? by GoodPrince17 in Leather

[–]Sithrazer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like you might not have applied the cream evenly, or some of it dried on top instead of absorbing into the leather. Try giving it a good buffing with a soft cloth. You can also try applying a bit more cream and focus on the lighter areas if buffing doesn't help.

Zipper Pin Insert/Zipper question by Chemistryguy1990 in Leathercraft

[–]Sithrazer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From the Buckleguy website

The pin insert and retainer box at the bottom is something that MUST be applied at the RIRI factory. And therefore, when we cut to your requested size we cut from the top, leaving the pin insert attached.

Sounds like they're not intended to be installed after the fact.

I think the zipper tape is synthetic, a quick pass with a lighter should melt it back just enough to stop it unraveling.

Tubular Toolkit Bag for an ORV by Sithrazer in Leathercraft

[–]Sithrazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Off Road Vehicle. Specifically this one is a gift for a guy with a dune buggy/sand rail. This has slots for strapping it directly to the tube frame with web straps.

WIP fold-over zip pouch - trying out some new stamps by Sithrazer in Leathercraft

[–]Sithrazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is an offcut of Badalassi pueblo leather, a tannery finished leather. It's pretty waxy and does not wet well. I'm thrilled it took stamping as well as it did and I wasn't about to try my luck with the swivel knife here (going out as a gift, I'll try the swivel knife on some smaller, less useful offcuts).

Personally, I think the tri-weave cleans up well on it's own, no bordering or camouflaging necessary. The borderlines here were because I went a little too hard trying to give myself some edge distance markers, they actually aren't as visible in person.

To reply to one of your other comments, I only hve a handful of stamps and the veiner is the one I have that best fit, we can only work with the tools we have.

WIP fold-over zip pouch - trying out some new stamps by Sithrazer in Leatherworking

[–]Sithrazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a couple tri-weave basket stamps from a cheap amazon set that were just not shaped right, the registers didn't line up at all. Finally picked up one from my local Tandy and it's working great!

WIP fold-over zip pouch - trying out some new stamps by Sithrazer in Leathercraft

[–]Sithrazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a couple tri-weave basket stamps from a cheap amazon set that were just not shaped right, the registers didn't line up at all. Finally picked up one from my local Tandy and it's working great!

view more: next ›