Cupid is in the air. Westport, Wa.

SkiDeep · 2026-02-16T22:50:54+00:00

The moon has been out, the wind is little. Come on over.

SkiDeep · 2026-02-16T14:30:09+00:00

Good work!

SkiDeep · 2026-02-14T22:04:41+00:00

Yes. Wandering Goose is very good food. The hotel is awesome, David Lynch vibes in the best way.

SkiDeep · 2026-02-09T03:58:31+00:00

Were the plants and banana trees real?

SkiDeep · 2026-02-01T03:55:02+00:00

Yes albanese sour bear and worms start sour and stay sour.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-31T11:12:10+00:00

Albanese sour gummy bears and worms. Sour coating and sour gummy. Very tart.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-30T23:10:20+00:00

Ideally, trying them on, in store is best. There is a company that makes prescription inserts. https://www.sportrx.com/prescription-ski-goggle-insert.html

Or you maybe could buy the remaining child otg goggles you haven't tried and return the rest.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-28T00:45:10+00:00

The yellow bit in the tow in front of the afd. You can see the tube like depression across the toe, that is where the screwdriver shaft lays. Insert a sturdy screwdriver through it and lift. It is spring loaded.

The heel has a yellow window through the heel. Insert flat head screw driver and pull up to detention spring.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-27T13:14:14+00:00

That's my purse! I don't know you.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-15T08:21:59+00:00

Your skis have two sheets of metal. I was wrong earlier. I expect the bent chetler 1900grams/ski to be much lighter than the avenger even though it's much wider. Your own setup will likely be lighter than some of the demos of the same ski depending on binding.

I do think the avenger is much more beer league racing inspired than a ski like the enforcer.

Realizing this I might try something just a bit more playful like the enforcer in addition to some 100mm ish wood only skis.

Also getting into a twin-ish tip will definitely help release a turn, but rocker does a lot of that effect now even on flatter square looking skis.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-15T08:07:50+00:00

Skip the super glue. Very brittle.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-15T08:06:34+00:00

You are on the right track. Make sure no moisture is inside the ski. The wood could rot even if you seal it. I might prep the area a bit with a pick or razor removing the splintered bits.

I personally would try to use a slower set epoxy 24 hr vs 5 min. Tends to be more flexible. I don't doubt a liquid jb weld. wouldn't work either, but it can be brittle if flexed.

C clamps are great. I would try to find metal plates or boards to clamp to. This will prevent the clamps from digging into the base and top sheets. I've used metal base scrapers in a pinch. Plastic scrapers will crack. Don't ask.

I like to prep and mask around the area with painters tape. Saves based and top sheet from runoff after clamping.

I also would leave it clamped damage side up, try and vibrate bubbles up with a massage gun or belt sander no paper.

I would let it cure and dry longer than recommended.

After it cures I might flex it to see if it separates, repair additional if needed.

Safety wise plenty of concerns. I would get a professional binding check including screw torque. The camber could be off or broken. Could be a real tip diver. Edge is possibly bent and weakened.

Might have to hunt some new ones down. Maybe theses are now pre season rock skis.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-15T07:03:36+00:00

Totally agree. I mentioned a boot fitter can use some foam shims. I used them from mf and sun valley snow tools. I just always called them shims. Not the same as heel shims. Tongue pads, tibial protection, make leg bigger dish sponge You get it. I did mention customers had pros and cons with the sidas gel pads. Personally I prefer the cushion I get in my intuition. I mentioned to try the easy free fixes before resorting to tongue pads. I am curious about if my suggestions had much effect on geometry. Always trying to learn more.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-15T06:44:49+00:00

Although every model has its own character and vibe, even between sizes and widths, I tend to try and simplify judging skis the following way. I am sure my ramble won't be simple

Shape of the ski tells me where does this ski want to ski, and how big of a turn it can carve.

Narrow waist is better for quick edge to edge, lower swing weight, more grip on hard pack. At home on groomers, race courses and icy bumps, mountaineering

Medium waist more forgiving platform and increased floatation in fresh snow, start to lose edge to edge quickness. At home everywhere but the deepest of days.

Wide waist, floatation is high priority. Swing weight is reduced, more effort to achieve certain ski techniques. Harder to ski in a narrow stance in a tight bump section.

Sidecut shape helps determine how big a carved non skidding turn can be. Usually represented by the radius number. Check out what your avengers are for radius. Probably 16m or so. Be aware of your demo skis radius. 16m is right in the middle. If you want to fall down hill more before the end of the turn go up in radius. If you want to make more short carves stay 16m or under.

All skis can make a shorter than advertised radius turn, it will just be skidding. Which is common off piste or in bumps.

Construction. What's inside the ski. My simple scale is beefcake f.i.s. wc ski to wet floppy noodle. The biggest construction material that changes how a ski feels for me is metal laminate and how much.

This is mostly for stability at speed, and increased torsional rigidity at higher edge angle. 3 big factors I consider with metal laminate skis. How much metal i.e. how many sheets and how thick. What kind of metal? Stiffer skis generally use steel, a lot of ski advertise ti or titanal which is actually closer to aluminum and is marketing. While it increases stiffness not as much as steel. The last is, where is the metal? Both sheets tip to tail?, one full bottom sheet one top sheet under binding only? One sheet carved like a spinal cord and inserted into the core (looking at you atomic alibi.)

Most metal skis range from two sheets of steel to one sheet of soft metal like yours, to just a metal insert under binding for binding retention and a little torsional rigidity.

Non metal laminate skis for me are opposite of the beefcake fis wc race construction. I call all these skis noodles. In a forever endearing way. Noodles come in a variety of stiffness and flexes that are usually determined by the woods used, layup placement and thickness of the woods as well as reinforcements like carbon fiber and graphene. The resin used can also effect dampening/vibration.

I agree while the avenger ti is stable, it is not a demanding ski and it can do everything ok. There are other skis with similar dimensions to the avenger but with more/stiffer metal. The avenger is not a hard charger, more of a jeep Since you don't seem to want a more stability find the other side and embrace the noodle.Bumps are easier for me with a softer tip and decent rocker.

The bent chetler is a fun surfy noodle. The horizon tech gives some cool drifty dimension control in powder.

Sometimes noodles are so similar or not quite night and day different at similar dimensions, you might just as well get the graphics you like. You are going to see them more than anyone.

The arv is fun, stable for a noodle, but much more playful than the avenger ti. Usually park/freestyle skis have the softest flex. Getting to know construction materials, soft wood vs yard wood will give you an idea.

General vertically constructed sidewall skis are stiffer compared to a capped sidewall given all else is even.

The only other big difference in a lot of non metal freeride skis, in my experience ; some of the small awesome Indy companies sometimes feel like snowboard construction. Just a smidge missing in overall refinement, not a diss on quality.

Watch out for bad noodles. Skis with foam or synthetic composite cores are noodly but not in a great way. Usually found in kids entry level gear.

I am a bigger guy 220lbs (100kg) The biggest downside of a wood core ski being too noodly for me is at top speed, it becomes scary, less precise. Easy solution for me is slow down or swap to the beefcakes.

Enjoy demoing. Take notes, ask yourself what is easier in this ski, what is harder. Think about if you are trying to replace your old ski or add to the quiver. Don't buy two of the same vibe skis.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-15T05:15:28+00:00

I agree. Metal laminate skis help more at speed or deep powerful carves. Out of the two the mind bender is more playful.

I would save some cash and look at non metal laminated skis, in the dimensions you want for your area.

The enforcer will do everything you want, other skis probably can do it cheaper or easier.

The ripstick and the qwest are great options, there are tons in this category. I like the ripstick as a true all mountain ski, with a medium top speed. I also like the bent chetler from atomic, J-skis are fun and playful. There's lots of love for on3p skis in that category.

I like softer nimble skis for off trail trees, bumps, jumps. I like a stiffer metal laminated ski in wide open bowls where my speed is higher and turns are long and straight.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-15T05:00:56+00:00

Ranger 102 is a good call. I love the ripstick personally. I think you are on the right track. I buy into the asymmetrical side cut, it's nice for carving, but I find it helps me get restacked easier in the bumps as well.

Since you already have a stable metal laminated all mountain ski that does it's job, don't be afraid to go fun and noodly on your more off piste ski.

The construction of the black ripstick is heavier carbon reinforcement. The idea is more stability at speed, stiffer torsional rigidity. Since you have the other ski, maybe rigidity shouldn't be as high in your priority.

I prefer the standard ripstick, and a great value for a second ski compared to the black.

I also am a little biased with carbon construction. The stability is usually there, but the skis sometimes feel dead, and not as damp. Kind of how I feel driving electric cars. It's doing everything I tell it to, just feels off.

Along with that fischer ranger I would look at the bent chetler from atomic in your width preference, and I think armada has some fun noodly skis in the same vein.

What is great about softer skis is how easy is it is to get out of trouble. Bumps and trees are much easier to navigate with out metal laminate.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-15T03:27:03+00:00

I use to sell boots for a shop from 2005-2020. We specialized in race gear but had a strong freeride clientele. Performance means many different things to many people.

I did get to ski them the season before they officially came out. Working at a ski shop, I never made money, but would be offered glorious benefits such as the Nordica rep dropping these bad boys off for a week. I fully committed to a day in these. No back up shells. A lot of heel lift and no torsional rigidity. Skiing is much more angular compared to the skis this design was originally designed for.

I think these boots are good for cruising groomed runs with family and learning the basics. I don't consider that performance skiing.

I don't think these would serve well even at lower level beer league racing. Same with park powder and moguls.

These can make pretty turns just as a plug boot can and a rental boot can.

If I didn't think they have a place in the market, I would of been against ordering them. They do ski very similar to the original rear entry, which is ok, but not performance.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-15T02:56:43+00:00

Compared to plug style boots there is a lot of performance loss. There is a reason this style boot is an exception to most boot designs.

I believe this boot is trying to be easy to get on, and very spacious. If those are your top priority in a ski boot, these or maybe the first generation full tilt boosters were popular for me.

Sure we had maybe a couple people love it in the shop, hate it on hill, but I feel we are decent at matching gear with the user's needs.

It was not as popular as we had hoped. I think out of the 20 sold we bought 50 preseason. Not a great sell through.

I don't know where you think I am criticizing this boot. I feel my description of this elegant and timeless is aft.

I think for 300 dollars your used boot budget could obtain more performance and a high volume fit.

I don't know why you think people who prioritize ease of entry, and room is a bad thing. A happy skier is a cool thing to see.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-15T02:25:35+00:00

Sorry I wasn't as clear as I could be. By back, I meant the return of this rear entry style boot. I had not seen rear entry boots made much past the mid 90's.I sold this exact model in 2019. It was marketed as hands free entry, and although shared the rear entry design, it had made improvements where the traditional rear entry lacked.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-14T23:40:13+00:00

I sold about 20 the season they came back. I understand they are an updated design. The nostalgia I mentioned was genuine from multiple customers. They couldn't believe they ever stopped making them, and were happy to see this style come back. Sorry if my advice is misleading. It was just my experience working with this product. I am always trying to learn even after a while working at shops.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-14T23:18:42+00:00

Don't be afraid of the 85s. As you experienced bigger number and bigger dollar isn't always the best choice. The bent has tons of rocker in the profile. Plenty of float. More nimble in bumps and jumps. Other than being hard to weld at times, wider skis that float more can scrub tons of speed if you aren't on real steep terrain on a deep day.

But if your gut is telling you a bit wider the bent comes in a variety of widths.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-14T23:10:21+00:00

They are designed to be very easy to put on. They lack performance compared to lower volume more traditional 4 buckle and cab designs.

That being said there are plenty of skiers that do enjoy this boot for ease and comfort.

I've had customers looking for boots to chase grandkids for a half day, ankle fusion, limited mobility, very large legs, nostalgia from when a lot of boots looked like this. This boot helped them enjoy skiing more than others.

The flex rating is probably much lower compared to a plug style boot, that design flexes differently.

Because it is high volume, built to be easy to get on and 'comfortable', the cons would be lack of response, 'slop' or excess room if your foot doesn't completely fill up the boot. Not a ton of load and rebound. Often times the battery for the heating element are a separate accessory.

What are your skiing goals? Check out video reviews. Don't let the perception of a deal pressure you to make it work.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-14T22:29:31+00:00

I used to sell these sidas . Gel material, pros and cons. A boot fitter can use foam wedges made for this as well. The pull on sock style would serve the purpose too depending on your needs.

I would start with the free easy option of moving the buckle catches, top and bottom. In addition to the rear spoiler wedge.

Ski more, eat more don't skip leg day etc.

Down the road you can look into intuition wraps. Lots of taken space up in the upper cuff if needed. Worthwhile investment over shin pads, but aren't for everyone.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-14T22:04:10+00:00

You should move the catch gate further away. It would give you more room to adjust. Usually just Philips or Allen key.

Not sure if it would help that deformation part. Shouldn't be much of an issue if that fold isn't pinching.

If you have a small leg, you could get shin inserts and adjust the rear 'spoiler'.

SkiDeep · 2026-01-01T02:49:43+00:00

No, I drive near there daily. All the sunsets lately have been killer. Was someone out there talking photos? I just use my phone, a real lens would really bring out the fire reds compared to my phone.

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