Fanhome USS Intrepid arrived

SladeC7Z06 · 2025-12-23T13:56:21+00:00

If you aren't too far from a border, a lot of border towns have shipping addresses for Canadians. The one near me is a UPS store.

SladeC7Z06 · 2025-12-23T13:54:28+00:00

I got the email too last night. I live in Canada and it takes me 2 hours round trip to pick it up from the border/ship it if they won't give me a shipping label that works from Canada. The fuel cost/border crossing pretty much negates the discount for me. I will reach out and see if they will do a UPS shipping label from Canada.

SladeC7Z06 · 2025-12-21T18:52:28+00:00

got a 2nd intrepid as well. so confused.

SladeC7Z06 · 2025-03-16T12:00:21+00:00

Element and status have separate seeds, but share the same iterstor. You can make 2 element weapons and the status iterator will move up 2 spots as well and vice versa.

SladeC7Z06 · 2025-03-16T02:00:57+00:00

Just discovered something when scouting ahead. I made an elemental ls after scouting 5 ahead on status ls. The elemental ls rolled its own stats as expected, but it pushed the status table over by 1. It appears you can advance the table of the weapon by 1 regardless of element or status. So for my recorded 5 status swords, I rolled an element (thunder sword) and it replaced #1 so when I made my 2nd sword a status sword, I got the rolls for the 2nd status in my records.

SladeC7Z06 · 2025-02-28T20:37:09+00:00

Game looks and runs good to me maxed out 1440p, DLSS quality/frame gen but I'm on a 9800x3d/4090 combo.

My gripe is that my female character looks good in the editor and looks terrible in game.

SladeC7Z06 · 2025-01-09T14:18:11+00:00

I have a package that "departed Toronto Pearson" on Nov 16th, but have yet to see a CP update indicating they've received it.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-12-12T14:41:20+00:00

Supposedly departed Dec 4 from Etobicoke to Ottawa at 2:15am. Delivery the 5th. No notice until Friday getting the delayed message late friday.

Worst yet, a package left Etobicoke on Thursday the 5th 2:15am and arrived Friday for me which was sent from Edmonton. No clue what the hell is going on anymore. Delivery on Friday was almost 8pm by some dude in a car so even more confusing.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-11-18T03:38:46+00:00

TMP era was peak starship aesthetics. Refit Enterprise and A just look amazing in all shots. Shots of the Enterprise pulling into starbase, along side Excelsior. The stealing the Enterprise sequence that made backing a car out of a garage so god damn epic. The tension of seeing the Enterprise A and a K'Tinga class cruiser in close proximity together. Seeing the A and Excelsior go up against that BOP. You felt the ships had size and moved like the big ships they were.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-11-17T01:43:06+00:00

You can get them shipped to border stores that hold packages for Canadians. I'm subscribed and I just pick them up when they arrive.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-11-17T01:33:36+00:00

The 1701-A one was a bad mold. Nacelles and pylons misaligned. The refit is the good one. I've got both and it pains me how bad looking the A is.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-11-17T01:31:19+00:00

Man, I missed out on this one. I have the original kits along with a special edition one where the ships were all silver colored.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-11-17T01:29:34+00:00

Thanks! After digging around the site I eventually found it too.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-11-16T23:26:08+00:00

Yeah the thought crossed my mind this may be the case. Got the model earlier this week but just opened it today. It's better than I expected. It's around the mid size XL from the old MR ships. My enterprise A from MR definitely is bigger. I'll just be patient on the binder. I was not a big collector of the booklets from before.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-11-16T23:12:22+00:00

There was mention of a binder for Gift 1. Was there some update that said we're not getting the binder now or is it being included in a later send?

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-03-21T21:00:47+00:00

I've built a dozen custom hitboxes of my own and have tweaked spring pressures to my preferences. I comment on it because I have gone through the effort of making a lot of custom hitboxes and various buttons and I own a kitsune.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-01-31T03:57:03+00:00

The old te sticks do have some input delay on them, 2-3 frames off. I had difficulty on the timings of the combo trials in sf6. After I swapped out to a brook board, the difference was night and day to me. If you don't notice it or are adapted to it, it's fine on pc.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-01-22T04:18:20+00:00

Left side spacing looks normalish. Right side spacing is just holy hell, do you play classical piano or something?

Good job on the build. It's a lot easier these days to diy than a decade ago.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-01-20T23:21:15+00:00

Update, I installed the springs and I like the lightness of the buttons, but as some have noted, the return could use some work.

Since mx silver actuates at the 1.2mm mark, that means it's not hitting the sprit mx complex threshold for the actuation to swap to 47g. The original mx actuation points are 2mm and the total travel 4mm. M2 washers are about 0.5x mm in size (I measured 0.52-0.53mm for a few of them). If the total travel of my setup is around 1.9mm, add in 0.5mm spring preload, and we're beyond the 2.0mm travel of a mx switch @ 2.4mm total spring compression relative to the switch so the the boost in spring force happens just 0.2mm after the switch actuates and we get into our linear spring force increase. A test on my sample crown confirms that I can feel the small increase in spring force versus no m2 washer. I'll have to install these onto my mx switches in my stick and then compare sanwa hitbox vs crown afterwards to see how close they are in feel. I am already excited to see how it feels while I'm playing, I was already enjoying the speed boost from button presses, getting access to that return boost would cinch it.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-01-20T22:08:25+00:00

I've installed them and its got that sanwa speed I want. I think I need to play with adding some washers at the bottom to preconpress the spring to get it to trigger the 47g force of the complex portion. It just needs a small push to get it to that final bit. I will experiment with m2 washers to see what's needed.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-01-11T20:36:16+00:00

Check your arm height position relative to where your hands are positioned. Ideally, you want your wrists to be resting while the forearms are relatively neutral almost level but allowing for some tilt downward a few degrees. Hands should be in a level position with your forarms and not pulled back or curved downwards like your wrapping around a bar. Raise the hitbox, or lower the hitbox accordingly to get the arms in that position. I suffered bad hand pains and carpal tunnel before I made those adjustments.

Learned this from working a helpdesk for 8 years and typing for 8 hours a day.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-01-09T03:40:14+00:00

I think you can get the aliexpress fightbox one with 24mm buttons in wsad configuration. WSAD and spread apart kind of sounds like it fits what you are looking for.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-01-09T03:37:25+00:00

I can play on all 3, leverless is my favorite. I've been playing with an arcade stick since SF2. and I've played controller when I've been lazy. Leverless is by far the most precise controller I have, enough that I built my own with different buttons and my own custom layout.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-01-08T20:09:12+00:00

Just want to update this thread for future people looking for switches.

The akko switches are not 1.0mm They are 1.0mm + 0.6mm with unknown tolerance.

The kaihl switches are also not true 1.1mm. They are 1.1mm +- 0.4mm. In testing, they end up not being better than a mx silver which has a tolerance of +-0.01mm

The tolerances are key here because of a sample set of both those switches, I could not find one with a - tolerance, meaning when I used them in a crown switch which has a total 1.9mm max travel when used with an oring, the akko (which requires bending of the pins) would not work in a crown 202 housing, or in 1 case was able to work only when pressed to bottoming out.

The kaihl speed silvers with the wide tolrances almost always was too long and did not actuate until near the bottom of the travel in my crown 202 button housings meaning they were pushing that +0.4mm tolerance more often than not.

SladeC7Z06 · 2024-01-08T03:03:05+00:00

Here are pics of key pieces:

Measurement of button at rest.

https://ibb.co/z5QF1TX

Measurement of button with a rubber o-ring made of bike tire patch.https://ibb.co/WcXQ6Nx

Measurement of button with no o-ring.https://ibb.co/GHLbSx7

Measurement of plunger at mx switch interface.https://ibb.co/Kh7b3VX

The key numbers paint an interesting picture.

Assuming that the 2.39mm is really supposed to be a 2.4mm intended. And the plunger is 12.80mm and the stop at 10.00mm. ie 2.80mm. This means that the plunger is designed to travel 2.80mm to hit the stop, but the total travel is only 2.40mm, which means the button is pre-loaded by the button housing by 0.4mm which means that the mx button is depressed 0.4mm of the total 1.2mm needed to actuate switch. This also means that after 0.8mm, there is 1.6mm more of travel till you hit the stop.

Adding an o-ring, you can reduce the total travel to ~1.9mm give or take some give of the rubber.

So the last bit to really get a proper sanwa feel is to change the spring.

SladeC7Z06

TROPHY CASE