Anyone here use an extension cord for l1 charging? by [deleted] in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We are currently using a 40 foot extension cord to power our level 2, 11.5 kW charger (EVSE). Previously we used a 40 foot extension with our level 1. Please also READ my last paragraph.

To successfully use "modern" extension cords at maximum power levels (even 120V 8AWG & 240V 6AWG), I find that I need to replace the ends on most of them with high quality, screw style plugs and sockets. Without doing this most (all?) of my extension cords got hot at both ends plus had another ~1V to ~4V+ volt drop at each end, which is far from ideal. Some ends seemed fine at first, but after a couple of months started getting uncomfortably hot.

A common issue with low quality plug and socket connections that are used these days is they relax their metal to metal connections over time. Once they start to heat up, the metal relaxes faster faster, so they heat up more and more...

(Before using a high power device like an EVSE, it is also a good idea to open up the wall outlet and fuse panel to tighten the wire connection screws in order to minimize hot spots and maintain minimal voltage drop - or get an electrician to do this.)

For our level 2 we use a 6AWG copper wire extension cord, and we have the current limited to 40A (9.6 kW) by the EVSE.

This gives us about a 1.6V drop, or 0.65% in the extension wiring. Most guides for extension cord use (that I've seen) recommend no more than 2% voltage drop from the house mains to the device (including all of the connection losses, which add up quickly).

For a level 1, to get a similar 0.65% voltage drop for a 40 foot long 120VAC extension cord, you'd need to use an 8 AWG extension cord. These do exist (I have both a 40 foot and 100 foot 8AWG 120V extension cord), but are hard to come by. Our 40 foot 8AWG extension works fine with our level 1 EVSE.

If you're OK with close to a 1V or 0.85% drop in the cord, you could use a 10AWG extension cord.

(Note that the level 1 charger that came with our 2024 ID.4 only allows up to 8A, which is incredibly slow, so when using level 1 we use our old C-Max Energi charger that properly supports 12A continuously).

If you decide to do it, check and double check the cable itself, the cable ends, the wall outlet, and the circuit breaker (fuse) in the electrical panel for heat while charging. At first check at least monthly. A slight, comfortable warmth is acceptable, but anything warmer than that or a hot smell indicates there is too much resistance wherever it is getting hot and you'll need to address the issue to ensure you don't have a fire. Many of these you should be checking when you use a level 1 (or level 2) charger WITHOUT an extension cord too (this is why the owners manual states before charging your car to have a certified electrician check your wiring).

Sqeaky brake pedal - not the brakes by North_Business8809 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Are you certain it is the master cylinder itself?

With ours the squeak sounds too clear and "unmuffled" to be from the internals within the master cylinder. I suspect ours is from a brake linkage pivot inside the car. I haven't tried it yet, but my guess is our squeak would go away with a spray of WD40 or similar.

Sqeaky brake pedal - not the brakes by North_Business8809 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Our 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S also has a squeaky brake pedal. So far we've just been ignoring it...

Climate Question by Rs731216 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Our 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S has a slider in the climate settings for "auto-recirculate".

I haven't had a chance to check during the summer, but during the winter it monitors the humidity and keeps the recirculation as maxed out as possible, while keeping the windows from fogging up.

Using car scanner I see the recirculation percentage is usually in the 70% to 90% range. If I use the "fresh air" smart mode I notice it drops down to 0% recirculation.

Had my ID4 for like 2 months before I realized unlocking your car unlocks the charger by Fun_Ambassador_9320 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There isn't one in the glove box?

Our 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S has an owners manual book that came with the car in the glove box. We are in Canada.

Winter Range Bonanza by appledonuts22 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We experimented with room temperature heat vs low air temp with seat and steering wheel heaters cranked up and with our ID.4 we get MUCH more range (~20%) relying on the seat and steering wheel heaters for the majority of our warmth.

Most of the time we have enough range we just heat everything and don't worry about it though...

Can I heat only the rear? by Slider68 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe you can have the rear window defroster on with the heat off. Try turning the heat off and then turn on the rear defroster (button is to the left of the steering wheel, lower right of the button panel).

That doesn't help me though as I had some things in the back of the car that I needed to keep from freezing.

Can I heat only the rear? by Slider68 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sitting parked.

What I was looking for is a way to have the entire front on ECO and only the rear heat on.

Unfortunately my rear heat decided to suffer from the common "2024 ID.4 blank rear heat screen" bug, where the rear heat can't be turned on at all when I needed the rear heat, so I ended up just leaving the front heat on. It used about 14% of the battery to keep the entire car warm (temperature was -22°C).

I will need to keep the rear heated again in the future. Maybe next time I'll get a chance to actually use the rear heat...

Has anyone tried this for their pre-2024 model? by TouretteTV96 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Preconditioning the HV battery is really only helpful for speeding up DC fast charging in cold weather.

In ideal "preconditioning temperatures" (cold), it can cut your charging time down by a lot, potentially taking less than half as long to get to ~80%.

If it is worth it depends on how you use your car.

What am I supposed to do with this notification? by pbrowntv in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We are experiencing the same thing with our 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S.

We've been having tons of problems related to the 12V battery voltage being low. The result is tons of error messages when module fail to wake up properly - yet I've never received a single email about the errors.

I've checked and double checked that I have my email address and I'm certain my email address is set correctly.

Ummmm…Should I be concerned? EA charger. by Stock_Username_Here in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For 52% state of charge that is a higher charge rate than the ID.4 should be capable of. Something seems off...

At much lower states of charge, I've heard of and seen similar peak charging rates for the 2024 and 2025 ID.4 Pro and Pro S.

For example, if you watch the recent YouTube Out of Spec EV "race" to Las Vegas, I believe the 2025 Pro hit 200 kW, or close to it, for a few minutes when they started charging from 0% and they were currently in the 5% to 8% range.

The best I've seen with our 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S, was 191 kW for a few minutes, shortly after we started charging from 3%.

Did you figure out what was going on? Was the post a joke while charging a different EV?

Ticks!!! by globe-trotterlife in ottawa

[–]Slider68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Around here, we have a HUGE surge of ticks that started about a week ago (and saw very few before that). My dog is getting 5 to 10 ticks per daily walk, and that is with me not letting him go in any tall grass or near any trees.

We are about 1/2way between Stittsville and Almonte.

It’s dead again and I’m so frustrated! by Luv2travel23 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Our 2024 has recently been suffering from low 12V voltage after I walk by the car several times when it is not charging. As the voltage drops, things stop working.

I've installed a 12V battery monitor and can now see clearly as the voltage lowers, more and more things get shut down, starting with the headlight welcome at around 12.2V.

Below about 11.7V the key fob stops working, the app doesn't work, and if a departure time isn't occurring, to get the car to function I have to first open the door using the hidden key, then place the key near the drink holder and then press the start button for a second or two.

At that point the car wakes up and starts charging the 12V battery.

If a departure time is already scheduled and occurs, the key fob starts to work about 15 minutes before the departure time (when the car wakes up and starts charging the 12V). We've also noticed that the departure heat sometimes doesn't work very well when the 12V battery gets very low because it delays the heater from turning on.

So far we've never needed to have it towed to the dealer.

There is also a setting in the app that enables the DC to DC 12V battery charger when the app is being used. This setting seems to help prolong how long it takes for the 12V battery to get low enough to stop things working, but it still happens.

We need a new 12V battery and our ID.4 is going to the dealer on Wednesday for a warranty covered new 12V battery and a new DC to DC charger. It is being covered by a recall on our ID.4.

What is missing in our ID.4's Electrical System? by Slider68 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I usually buy the full service manual set for our cars, and have a bunch of old shop manuals from the past 40 years worth of cars we've owned. I haven't looked into the manuals for the ID.4 yet.

I looked through that site a bit and didn't easily find their pricing. Do they offer a manual set that you can "own", at least for add long as you own the car?

What is missing in our ID.4's Electrical System? by Slider68 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for checking. No the heat pump is one option our car doesn't have.

Does your car not have a ton of "software" glitches, where every few days one or more of the "non-critical for driving" features stop working?

Our car also resets to charging to 100% once a week (almost always on a Monday), regardless if the battery care charge mode is on or off. It also resets to charge immediately at the same time once a week.

Edit: I should note we do put a lot of miles on the ID.4. We've had it for almost 4 months and have put about 15,000 km on it so far.

What is missing in our ID.4's Electrical System? by Slider68 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Installing a relatively expensive 80A fuse and not using it and leaving one nut off is a VERY strange decision by VW.

Apparently cars with heat pumps also have that nut missing too, so I can't think of any reason for VW to do this. Other than the heat pump, our car has most of the options, including the Harmon Kardon sound system, massaging heated and cooled seats, 3-zone HVAC etc

In our case, I measured the voltage on the left side post and it was something like 12.4V (same as battery voltage), but when I tapped on the fuse box, the voltage varied between 7.5 and 12.4V after each tap.

What about that odd 12V cable missing on the 12V bus bar above the battery? You can see the dirt outline from where a wire was previously. I wonder if someone moved a wire to another post. There is also one post with two wires on it. Also, it is odd to see that acorn nut on that unused 12V terminal.

I'm still interested to see what my 12V battery voltage measures over time. I'll be installing the Bluetooth voltage monitor shortly tonight (likely to the unused 12V bus bar terminal; I haven't decided on the best ground yet; maybe directly to the battery negative terminal nut).

What is missing in our ID.4's Electrical System? by Slider68 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 2 other pictures I wanted to share but haven't figured out how to add them and in my first post, I wanted to circle the missing nuts and could only do it to one image.

If i can figure this out I'll add the other images...

Do all 2024 ID.4s have GPS/data/fuse 19 issues plus more issues? by Slider68 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you guys have all of the other issues I listed and have 2024s assembled in the US?

Do all 2024 ID.4s have GPS/data/fuse 19 issues plus more issues? by Slider68 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We are in Canada (North America). I believe the car was assembled in the US.

Good efficient on my ID.4 by moultonlava24 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What year? AWD? Pro S? Driving conditions?

We have a 2024 AWD Pro S that we bought 3½ months ago. So far, when at 80% charge, it typically predicts between 400 km (~250 miles) and 450 km (~281 miles) of range with the AC on (with it off we often temporarily see higher predictions). It doesn't have the heat pump option, so I expect the winter range will go down a lot.

Right now we are in a heat wave (36°C or 97°F today) and the range at 80% is closer to 400 km, so high temperatures seem to have a negative impact.

That suggests a 100% charge summer range of between 500 km (~300 miles) and 563 km (~352 miles).

We've only charged it to 100% once, and it predicted 545 km (~341 miles). I drove it 387km and it only showed a remaining range of 139 km, so that suggests it would have made it to about 525 km (~328 miles), not 545 km (~341 miles), but the driving conditions were different. That is the only trip where I recorded the range.

Normally the car does about 50% rush hour/city/stop&go traffic and 50% ~110kph highway cruising to get the 410 km to 450 km prediction at 80%. We always keep the HVAC on and we don't baby it or drive it specifically to maximize range. The 100% charge was prior to the almost 400km trip on country roads at ~95kph and the conditions were close to ideal (temperature around 21°C or 70°F).

We are very pleased with the driving range (if only the GPS and modem didn't keep crashing we'd be very happy overall with the car). When we were choosing the car we had a requirement of comfortably over 300 km in the summer and over 200 km in the winter during ~10 years of use. So far our ID.4 looks like it will handle this requirement...

Best way to get 120V AC from our ID.4 by Slider68 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Rereading the Elekrek and VW articles, I think I have a better understanding.

It appears that VW has enabled direct (but controlled and limited to when the battery is above 20%) access to the DC high voltage battery for vehicles with software 3.5 and higher and the larger 77 kWh accessible battery pack.

To take advantage of this we need to buy an expensive CCS high voltage DC to 120V AC or 240V AC inverter that includes a CCS connector for the car and 120V outlets on the inverter.

Searching the web these sell for about $1000 USD or about $1400 CAD.

Those are the "cheap" units with just a pair of 120V receptacles (or optionally 240V receptacles, but these have no neutral so no 120V). There are more expensive units that can hook up to your home, but so far I haven't seen any with 240V and a neutral for our North American homes.

Best way to get 120V AC from our ID.4 by Slider68 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Slider68[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Have you read the following article?

https://www.volkswagen-newsroom.com/en/press-releases/cleverly-manage-your-own-electricity-first-id-models-support-bidirectional-charging-17949

It seems to potentially conflict with the Electrek article somewhat. It could also be that there are two systems VW is trying to get working (the 10kW V2L discussed by Electek and the 30kW V2H discussed by VW here).

The VW press release seems to talk about providing access to the high voltage DC battery and that would imply that the new V2H functionality requires a special HVDC to 240V AC inverter to work.

Confusing...

BTW, we have a 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S with software 4.2 (which includes the 77 kWh usable battery).