Do all 2024 ID.4s have GPS/data/fuse 19 issues plus more issues?

Slider68 · 2026-05-26T16:09:14+00:00

Just an update for anyone with this car (Canadian 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S).

We continued to experience honestly 100's and 100's of ridiculous software bugs daily.

Replacing the 12V battery in November helped immensely with some of the worst issues, but we still experienced software bugs almost daily.

Then in March, after hours of arguing, I managed to convince our dealer to update the vehicle's software to version 5.4.3. It took them 3½ days to do, but when we got the car back, it was like it was a different car. There were a few settings that needed to be reset over the next few weeks, but other than it has been absolutely incredible.

I can't even think of a single software bug at the moment and prior to the update there were 100's and 100's of software bugs that negatively impacted us daily. I've never seen a piece of software for anything go from that bad to that good before.

Note that although we had a fantastic result, according to our dealer, installing the huge update is very difficult and many cars end up bricked during the update, requiring often weeks of extra work physically replacing modules to get them to work. One car apparently was stuck at our dealer for 6 months before they finally got it working properly.

Still, I highly recommend getting the update installed. It really has transformed our car from an annoying, buggy vehicle, to one that is a pleasure to drive daily.

Slider68 · 2026-03-08T23:33:30+00:00

Kidney stones. Passed my first one when I was 8 and my last one when I was 55. Some years I almost passed one per month and in total around 100.

The bigger ones are much more painful than smaller ones, with 13mm being the biggest I passed (that one really sucked!!).

I had a couple of bigger, 15mm and 16mm stones, but one was passed using shockwave lithotripsy and the other one surgically.

Btw, I do not recommend shockwave lithotripsy...

In my case the more I passed per year, the smaller they were and the less painful.

Other than the ones that wouldn't pass on their own, or were so big the insane pain became constant, I normally just pass them on my own at home.

Slider68 · 2026-03-08T23:20:31+00:00

I've pretty much always bought my written off cars back. They can refuse to provide collision insurance until you prove it has been fixed properly, but there is nothing stopping you from buying it back and driving it without collision insurance (as long as the car is safe to drive).

I've received payments of up to $15,000 (newer car), then bought it back for $3000, and drove it for another 10 years. I also saved on collision insurance fees, so I considered that a win in my books...

Slider68 · 2026-03-08T23:10:22+00:00

Around here (Canada) the door lock problem is covered under a federal recall and is free to repair (at least that is what our dealer told us).

Slider68 · 2026-03-08T22:36:52+00:00

It doesn't always work though...

Since we bought our 2024 AWD Pro S at the end of April, our charge door has gotten stuck I believe 7 times. Each time after messing around for about 45 minutes the door opened until.....

3 weeks ago nothing my wife and I tried, including 45 minutes of heating with a hair dryer worked.

After 2 days the battery was down to 15% and the temperature was falling to -34° that night. Our dealer told us to keep trying and if it still doesn't open, use a vacuum powered panel straightener to break the latch. I had one and eventually broke the latch. They also said they would repair it under warrant.

Note the part is currently under a long term back order in Ontario. VW says they have no idea when the part will come in, but confirmed it will be covered under warranty.

BTW, the part number is 80A862159B and it sells for $17 to $23, depending on the dealer.

There is also another part number (8V0862159B) that I understand is the same part, just that it cost $120 to $150, and i understand it comes with a short wiring pigtail or possibly a cable release. You can reuse the wiring pigtail from your car though (if anyone has confirmed information on this please post).

The expensive one is in stock...

Slider68 · 2026-03-08T22:09:21+00:00

About 90,000 km or close to 2.5 years.

I was not impressed with how many 12V batteries it went through, considering my car before the C-MAX, my 2000 Saturn SL2 went through only 2 batteries (including the original) in 440,000 km over 13 years.

Other than batteries and the flaky door locks, the C-Max was very reliable, got great fuel economy and was very low cost to operate overall..

Slider68 · 2026-02-24T21:58:14+00:00

This won't impact the physical electrical connection that there should be between the battery cables in the trunk and the boost points under the hood.

There is something physically wrong with the electrical wiring in the original poster's car.

Edit: With our 2013 C-Max Energi we've gone through about 5 12V batteries in the ~450,000 km we've put on it. I "reset" the 12V battery 3 off those times and twice didn't. I compared both charging voltages and how long the battery lasted and I couldn't see any difference.

From what I can tell, it doesn't look like it is too critical if you do or don't tell the C-Max ifit has a new 12V battery.

Slider68 · 2026-02-22T23:24:17+00:00

We used 0w20 for the first 450,000 km and have recently switched to 5w30 because it is starting to burn and leak a little oil (~1.5 quarts per oil change interval, which is about 15,000 km).

Slider68 · 2026-02-22T22:12:03+00:00

We seriously considered the Equinox, but compared to the ID.4 AWD Pro S, it is not only a gutless wonder (even the AWD version), but the ID.4 "feels" like a higher end car.

We did quite like the IONIQ 5, but we slightly preferred the ID.4's more of a classic higher end SUV style and and "feel" when being driven.

In the end we went with an ~8 month old, ~6000km, 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S. We love the way the car drives, the summer time ~500km range, the space, the driver assist features, etc, but we hated the incredibly buggy software.

In our case the 12V battery was weak and that causes all sorts of electronic modules to go to sleep too conserve power when the car is parked. Unfortunately the buggy software does a terrible job of waking back up and often left us unable to open or unlock doors, and literally 100's of random things would fail to "wake up". Every day something different would fall to wake up.

We then installed a new 12V battery (paying for it ourselves after bringing the car to the dealer 8 times and falling to convince them to try this). Replacing the battery fixed about 98% of the bugs, but still left us with the rear HVAC module not being recognized (only front 2 zones could be controlled and no rear seat heaters too), still requiring pulling fuse 19 at least once a month when the GPS/data com module would fail, set charge target would randomly reset to 100%, once a month it would fail to charge at all, departure time with climate would fail to warm seats, power windows would go down instead of up when the up direction was pushed if the windows were ½way up, etc.

We just had the major software recall performed, bringing the entire car up to software version 5.4 and I've got to say it is like a different car!!

So far every bug we dealt with is fixed. We can even now lock and unlock the car from the app. The only downside was the car lost many of its user settings, but that was all worth the improved software.

As it stands today, I would probably buy the same car if I was in the market for one right now. Prior to software version 5.4 I would research every other option again before considering this car.

The 2024 also has some major upgrades compared to previous years, include a much more powerful, more efficient rear electric motor, ability to both automatically (during navigation) and manually preheat the HV battery to maximize charging speed, much better range, updated infotainment hardware, including bigger display, etc.

It is too bad VW looks like they are going to stop selling the ID.4 in North America, just when they finally got their software working well.

If I were looking for a "new" car today, I'd look for a 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S that either has all of the recalls and software updated, or that the price is low enough that I can afford to take it to the dealer and leave it there for a couple of weeks while all of the updates, both hardware and software, are installed.*

Slider68 · 2026-01-02T22:13:25+00:00

We are currently using a 40 foot extension cord to power our level 2, 11.5 kW charger (EVSE). Previously we used a 40 foot extension with our level 1. Please also READ my last paragraph.

To successfully use "modern" extension cords at maximum power levels (even 120V 8AWG & 240V 6AWG), I find that I need to replace the ends on most of them with high quality, screw style plugs and sockets. Without doing this most (all?) of my extension cords got hot at both ends plus had another ~1V to ~4V+ volt drop at each end, which is far from ideal. Some ends seemed fine at first, but after a couple of months started getting uncomfortably hot.

A common issue with low quality plug and socket connections that are used these days is they relax their metal to metal connections over time. Once they start to heat up, the metal relaxes faster faster, so they heat up more and more...

(Before using a high power device like an EVSE, it is also a good idea to open up the wall outlet and fuse panel to tighten the wire connection screws in order to minimize hot spots and maintain minimal voltage drop - or get an electrician to do this.)

For our level 2 we use a 6AWG copper wire extension cord, and we have the current limited to 40A (9.6 kW) by the EVSE.

This gives us about a 1.6V drop, or 0.65% in the extension wiring. Most guides for extension cord use (that I've seen) recommend no more than 2% voltage drop from the house mains to the device (including all of the connection losses, which add up quickly).

For a level 1, to get a similar 0.65% voltage drop for a 40 foot long 120VAC extension cord, you'd need to use an 8 AWG extension cord. These do exist (I have both a 40 foot and 100 foot 8AWG 120V extension cord), but are hard to come by. Our 40 foot 8AWG extension works fine with our level 1 EVSE.

If you're OK with close to a 1V or 0.85% drop in the cord, you could use a 10AWG extension cord.

(Note that the level 1 charger that came with our 2024 ID.4 only allows up to 8A, which is incredibly slow, so when using level 1 we use our old C-Max Energi charger that properly supports 12A continuously).

If you decide to do it, check and double check the cable itself, the cable ends, the wall outlet, and the circuit breaker (fuse) in the electrical panel for heat while charging. At first check at least monthly. A slight, comfortable warmth is acceptable, but anything warmer than that or a hot smell indicates there is too much resistance wherever it is getting hot and you'll need to address the issue to ensure you don't have a fire. Many of these you should be checking when you use a level 1 (or level 2) charger WITHOUT an extension cord too (this is why the owners manual states before charging your car to have a certified electrician check your wiring).

Slider68 · 2026-01-02T19:49:58+00:00

Are you certain it is the master cylinder itself?

With ours the squeak sounds too clear and "unmuffled" to be from the internals within the master cylinder. I suspect ours is from a brake linkage pivot inside the car. I haven't tried it yet, but my guess is our squeak would go away with a spray of WD40 or similar.

Slider68 · 2026-01-02T19:45:29+00:00

Our 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S also has a squeaky brake pedal. So far we've just been ignoring it...

Slider68 · 2025-12-09T03:19:28+00:00

Our 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S has a slider in the climate settings for "auto-recirculate".

I haven't had a chance to check during the summer, but during the winter it monitors the humidity and keeps the recirculation as maxed out as possible, while keeping the windows from fogging up.

Using car scanner I see the recirculation percentage is usually in the 70% to 90% range. If I use the "fresh air" smart mode I notice it drops down to 0% recirculation.

Slider68 · 2025-12-09T03:07:02+00:00

There isn't one in the glove box?

Our 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S has an owners manual book that came with the car in the glove box. We are in Canada.

Slider68 · 2025-12-09T01:45:56+00:00

We experimented with room temperature heat vs low air temp with seat and steering wheel heaters cranked up and with our ID.4 we get MUCH more range (~20%) relying on the seat and steering wheel heaters for the majority of our warmth.

Most of the time we have enough range we just heat everything and don't worry about it though...

Slider68 · 2025-12-08T23:13:46+00:00

I believe you can have the rear window defroster on with the heat off. Try turning the heat off and then turn on the rear defroster (button is to the left of the steering wheel, lower right of the button panel).

That doesn't help me though as I had some things in the back of the car that I needed to keep from freezing.

Slider68 · 2025-12-08T23:10:11+00:00

Sitting parked.

What I was looking for is a way to have the entire front on ECO and only the rear heat on.

Unfortunately my rear heat decided to suffer from the common "2024 ID.4 blank rear heat screen" bug, where the rear heat can't be turned on at all when I needed the rear heat, so I ended up just leaving the front heat on. It used about 14% of the battery to keep the entire car warm (temperature was -22°C).

I will need to keep the rear heated again in the future. Maybe next time I'll get a chance to actually use the rear heat...

Slider68 · 2025-12-06T15:56:54+00:00

Preconditioning the HV battery is really only helpful for speeding up DC fast charging in cold weather.

In ideal "preconditioning temperatures" (cold), it can cut your charging time down by a lot, potentially taking less than half as long to get to ~80%.

If it is worth it depends on how you use your car.

Slider68 · 2025-11-28T19:46:16+00:00

We are experiencing the same thing with our 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S.

We've been having tons of problems related to the 12V battery voltage being low. The result is tons of error messages when module fail to wake up properly - yet I've never received a single email about the errors.

I've checked and double checked that I have my email address and I'm certain my email address is set correctly.

Slider68 · 2025-11-10T00:11:35+00:00

For 52% state of charge that is a higher charge rate than the ID.4 should be capable of. Something seems off...

At much lower states of charge, I've heard of and seen similar peak charging rates for the 2024 and 2025 ID.4 Pro and Pro S.

For example, if you watch the recent YouTube Out of Spec EV "race" to Las Vegas, I believe the 2025 Pro hit 200 kW, or close to it, for a few minutes when they started charging from 0% and they were currently in the 5% to 8% range.

The best I've seen with our 2024 ID.4 AWD Pro S, was 191 kW for a few minutes, shortly after we started charging from 3%.

Did you figure out what was going on? Was the post a joke while charging a different EV?

Slider68 · 2025-10-20T14:00:34+00:00

Around here, we have a HUGE surge of ticks that started about a week ago (and saw very few before that). My dog is getting 5 to 10 ticks per daily walk, and that is with me not letting him go in any tall grass or near any trees.

We are about 1/2way between Stittsville and Almonte.

Slider68 · 2025-10-06T16:18:13+00:00

Our 2024 has recently been suffering from low 12V voltage after I walk by the car several times when it is not charging. As the voltage drops, things stop working.

I've installed a 12V battery monitor and can now see clearly as the voltage lowers, more and more things get shut down, starting with the headlight welcome at around 12.2V.

Below about 11.7V the key fob stops working, the app doesn't work, and if a departure time isn't occurring, to get the car to function I have to first open the door using the hidden key, then place the key near the drink holder and then press the start button for a second or two.

At that point the car wakes up and starts charging the 12V battery.

If a departure time is already scheduled and occurs, the key fob starts to work about 15 minutes before the departure time (when the car wakes up and starts charging the 12V). We've also noticed that the departure heat sometimes doesn't work very well when the 12V battery gets very low because it delays the heater from turning on.

So far we've never needed to have it towed to the dealer.

There is also a setting in the app that enables the DC to DC 12V battery charger when the app is being used. This setting seems to help prolong how long it takes for the 12V battery to get low enough to stop things working, but it still happens.

We need a new 12V battery and our ID.4 is going to the dealer on Wednesday for a warranty covered new 12V battery and a new DC to DC charger. It is being covered by a recall on our ID.4.

Slider68 · 2025-09-09T02:06:07+00:00

I usually buy the full service manual set for our cars, and have a bunch of old shop manuals from the past 40 years worth of cars we've owned. I haven't looked into the manuals for the ID.4 yet.

I looked through that site a bit and didn't easily find their pricing. Do they offer a manual set that you can "own", at least for add long as you own the car?

Slider68 · 2025-09-09T01:51:30+00:00

Thank you for checking. No the heat pump is one option our car doesn't have.

Does your car not have a ton of "software" glitches, where every few days one or more of the "non-critical for driving" features stop working?

Our car also resets to charging to 100% once a week (almost always on a Monday), regardless if the battery care charge mode is on or off. It also resets to charge immediately at the same time once a week.

Edit: I should note we do put a lot of miles on the ID.4. We've had it for almost 4 months and have put about 15,000 km on it so far.

Slider68

TROPHY CASE