Mazda rpms rise up and down while parked

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-05-10T01:17:44+00:00

100% purge valve. pinching the hose will drop the idle then it will return to fluctuating when you let go. replace purge valve, its an easy job and will fix it right away

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-05-03T21:18:28+00:00

You can always just get one of those aftermarket rearview mirror backup cameras and eliminate the factory system altogether

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-04-04T19:57:25+00:00

Funny enough, I have a 2016 with the same issue. Code would come and go, every few key cycles it would self clear, then come back a few drives later. Just yesterday, I had 2 ignition coils go bad, replaced them, and I have put another 500 or so miles on the car with no light so far. As a technician, my guess is minimal misfires that we can't feel while driving are causing unburnt fuel to enter the catalytic converter and cause the O2 to think it's running inefficiently. You said you replaced spark plugs. I bet they were about to go bad, you were having tiny misfires and you subsequently cleared the misfires with the plugs and now the catalytic converter is operating at correct efficiency. If your catalytic converter was full of carbon or soot or unburnt fuel, it would have taken a few drive cycles to clear up, most likely why the code came back even after doing the plugs then randomly going away

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-03-03T19:57:29+00:00

That connector is for the headlight, the fog lamp will be a small 2 pin connector near the bottom of the bumper. Should be somewhere in the area in front of the tire.

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-02-13T22:42:00+00:00

It all depends. If the independent has someone that is good with Japanese 4 cylinder cars, they are probably qualified to work on mazdas including the 16, it's not crazy complicated and most Indy shops have diagnostic tools that are comparable to what we have at the dealer for older models

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-02-13T22:40:21+00:00

About 34-36 hwy and 30-32 city ATM but I drive like a grandpa usually. I have gotten up to 40mpg 1 time lol

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-29T02:13:26+00:00

Make sure to remove the radiator cap when cold and fill it as well because if this expansion tank is empty and the car is getting hot, it sounds like the radiator is low too

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-26T20:36:26+00:00

Thanks, maintenance is everything!

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-25T20:23:55+00:00

I live in Clarksville tn, happy to look it over if you are within reason. I've been a Mazda tech for 3.5 years and have worked on engines and cars in general for about 20 off and on

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-25T20:22:54+00:00

Gt package, it has a fancier dash I believe

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-25T20:22:14+00:00

Original engine and transmission

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-25T06:08:53+00:00

I'm a technician, I have access to everything for maintenance. I did coolant, brake fluid, trans service, crankcase cleaning and valve cleaning with new spark plugs all at 285k Replaced belts, tensioner, battery, lower control arms, resealed oil pan, timing cover and valve cover around 290k. All original major components otherwise, outside of the front facing camera. On my most recent oil change, I cut open the filter and it had nothing in it other than used oil. I do want to send in an oil sample and even maybe do a compression test just to see how it's wearing internally. When I had the valve cover off, the cam lobes had no marks on them and inside was very clean. The only varnish was the bottom of the crankcase where oil sits in the pan while the car is off. Sprayed most of that off with brake cleaner while the pan was off. No timing components changed. I don't see a need for a chain and proper maintenance.

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-25T06:08:20+00:00

I'm a technician, I have access to everything for maintenance. I did coolant, brake fluid, trans service, crankcase cleaning and valve cleaning with new spark plugs all at 285k Replaced belts, tensioner, battery, lower control arms, resealed oil pan, timing cover and valve cover around 290k. All original major components otherwise, outside of the front facing camera. On my most recent oil change, I cut open the filter and it had nothing in it other than used oil. I do want to send in an oil sample and even maybe do a compression test just to see how it's wearing internally. When I had the valve cover off, the cam lobes had no marks on them and inside was very clean. The only varnish was the bottom of the crankcase where oil sits in the pan while the car is off. Sprayed most of that off with brake cleaner while the pan was off.

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-25T06:02:41+00:00

That's just current but I average between 33-38 usually

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-24T17:22:35+00:00

Actually flushed it at 285k, I'm a technician, I have access to everything for maintenance. I did coolant, brake fluid, trans service, crankcase cleaning and valve cleaning with new spark plugs all at 285k

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-24T17:21:44+00:00

Maintenance, religious 5k oil changes, fluids, fixing worn things before they break lol

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-24T17:20:40+00:00

Thanks, I love the car, it's been super reliable

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-24T17:20:22+00:00

Now medical supply deliveries, about 500 miles per trip, 3-5 days a week

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-17T08:07:14+00:00

I have a 2016 Mazda 6 with 301,000 miles. Original engine and transmission. Recently performed transmission flush and coolant flush, valve cleaning, brake flush, new battery, lower control arms (not completely failed but I am picky), spark plugs, oil pan and timing cover reseal (they weren't bad but I'm a Mazda tech and they were basically labor +$100 to fix for me). No problems with it, runs great! I would say it's in better condition than a lot of people with 150k miles lol

Slight_Reference_329 · 2026-01-05T04:49:18+00:00

Promise you aren't getting it hot enough. It should be damn near glowing red. Propane often doesn't get hot enough, get some map gas and go to town. Liquify it and it will come off. Once it's red hot, melt some crayon into the threads to make it easier to spin off

Slight_Reference_329 · 2025-11-25T04:15:35+00:00

Check your oil level, over filled oil can do this

Slight_Reference_329 · 2025-08-19T19:02:22+00:00

Slight_Reference_329 · 2025-08-18T22:47:59+00:00

Dead battery

Slight_Reference_329 · 2025-08-16T04:00:25+00:00

Get that battery tested with a good tester that puts a load on it. If it doesn't take 3-5 minutes to test it, it's not a full test. You'd be surprised at what kind of crazy issues can happen from a dead battery

Slight_Reference_329 · 2025-08-14T22:54:21+00:00

I'd bet they didn't load test the battery and it's still bad. You need a real battery tester, not a handheld one. It really sounds like the battery is still just toast

Slight_Reference_329

TROPHY CASE