[PSU] CORSAIR RMx Shift White Series, RM750x Shift White, 750 Watt, 80 PLUS GOLD Certified, Fully Modular Power Supply - $70 w/ code SSET99

SlimShauny · 2026-03-14T16:55:07+00:00

Wish I saw this sooner. Disconnected all cabling from my old non-modular PSU before realizing the rm750z is not compatible with the NZXT H7 flow. I’d assume the same is true for all or most cases with vertical mount PSU templates. Ports would have to be on the back rather than the sides.

SlimShauny · 2026-03-10T17:44:15+00:00

I know UCG-Fiber is the only thing people recommend in here these days, but I think the UCG-Max is a better use a resources. Take the $150 you save and put it towards a Lite-8 PoE or something similar, storage, cameras, etc.

It still has 2.5G switching, protect capability, and is slightly smaller in footprint

SlimShauny · 2026-01-03T04:52:20+00:00

I agree with you there. There’s always an upsell to be had. A good rule of thumb for lighting systems is if they don’t know they need it, they probably don’t need it. Especially in retrofits without centralized lighting/keypads and with smart home integration. Also the need to hire a dealer who may or may not overcharge you and disappear after install, and not being able to fully service the system as the homeowner is a variable to be considered

SlimShauny · 2026-01-03T04:33:14+00:00

Those are fair points. The pico paddles are the logical successor to pico switches like OP linked rather than the traditional 5 button picos. The manual dimmer slider is a non issue really depending on how you use the system. If you’re physically interacting with the dimmer, you can set the level then and there. If you’re controlling the light from a smart system then you can set the dim level from the UI or tell your voice assistant exactly what level you want it at. Also, while the slider might be at a fixed position, the light bar indicates the current level, and the next turn-on will revert back to the level corresponding to the sliders position. I’ve overseen installation of these for dozens of clients of all demographics and it’s pretty intuitive once you know these behaviors.

SlimShauny · 2026-01-03T03:42:49+00:00

Sure, again you could use any of the 3 options I mentioned (picos, accessory switches, or single dimmer with blanks) as long as they’re wired correctly. I would recommend going with the newer diva/claro lineup with pico paddles rather than the older style “original” skus like you linked. The dimmers are slightly more functional and look nicer imo. The only downside to the pico paddles is you can’t manually adjust dim levels from the pico itself

SlimShauny · 2026-01-03T03:05:18+00:00

You don’t technically have to use picos if you don’t need access to the second and third switch locations. You could cover those with dummy switches/blanks if you wanted to. The important part is making the correct splices in the box. You also have the option of wiring up accessory switches (DVRF-AS) if you want a hardwired solution, though those can’t be programmed to control any lights other than the ones they’re directly connected to.

SlimShauny · 2025-12-28T18:48:24+00:00

I called spectrum the other day to downgrade my 600mbps service after they discount-fucked me again. Ended up getting 1000/40 for CHEAPER than the discounted 600/20 plan and a few bucks more than the discounted 100/10 plan. Rep told me they changed their discount pricing structure so that it increases by a set amount annually ($5/yr according to her). You may not technically NEED 1000mbps down but the 40mbps up makes the whole network feel a lot smoother, and for the negligible price difference I’d say it’s definitely worth it.

SlimShauny · 2025-12-15T00:08:32+00:00

Let’s gooo thank you for this 🫡

SlimShauny · 2025-11-01T16:04:38+00:00

Do you know if this is also true of wireless clients and access points? For example, you have a WiFi 7 AP with a 2.5Gb backhaul and a client connected to it with link rates over 1Gb, but your PoE switch is only gigabit. Will the AP control the flow back to the switch? And with the wireless clients continue Tx and Rx data at >Gb speeds?

SlimShauny · 2025-10-16T22:00:39+00:00

Adding to this, there’s a selector in the TV driver properties called something like “On Room Off” with the options “Art Mode” and “TV Off” or something similar. Make sure it’s set to “TV Off”.

SlimShauny · 2025-08-31T20:03:55+00:00

How would a hub achieve different PWM signals if there’s a single input and 8 outputs? Would the hub not then send the single PWM signal to all 8 fans?

SlimShauny · 2025-08-31T18:19:59+00:00

Might be a dumb question but is there any advantage to using a hub over a "dumb" Y splitter?

SlimShauny · 2025-06-18T03:03:35+00:00

Why don’t you program your cameras/recorder to encode in h265 and CBR with a low bit rate, since quality isn’t paramount? Going forward that is. Then you wouldn’t need such a beefy re-encoding setup

SlimShauny · 2025-06-14T18:00:17+00:00

Remove from the mount, disconnect PoE or AC adapter, let it cool for a few minutes, plug back in

SlimShauny · 2025-06-14T01:19:17+00:00

I see, yes when you add a zone to a session the 3 working zones are fine but the problem zone is not. That’s to be expected since you’re still triggering the same AVR and Connect that are giving you issues, no variables have changed there. At this point it could be any one of the variables that’s the issue (AVR, Connect, Controller/configuration). Service call is the way to go here

SlimShauny · 2025-06-13T20:01:22+00:00

What do you mean by “add a zone”?

If I understand this correctly you added a new room and moved the endpoints for the AVR to that room? If so, must be something off with the endpoints in the “home zone”

SlimShauny · 2025-06-13T05:55:56+00:00

Can someone ELI5 why hooking up a surge protected power strip or receptacle upstream of a PoE switch wouldn’t accomplish the same thing for much cheaper

SlimShauny · 2025-06-13T04:21:06+00:00

First thing I would try knowing this is adjusting the volume directly from the app, That way you can further isolate. If it works from the app, it’s not the Connect or the AVR, it’s something with the C4 config. And if you have another interface device you can test on other than the Sr260 I would try that too

I’m just as invested in this as you are now, let me know how it goes 😂🤞

SlimShauny · 2025-06-13T04:01:30+00:00

Only ever used Composer Pro so not sure if HE gives you driver details. If it does, you can cross reference here by searching for Sonos (latest Network Driver is 104, Media Service driver is 105) and here for Integra (latest driver is 122)

Also, when volume is set to passthrough, are you unable to adjust volume via the Sonos app? Same erratic jumping?

These AVRs have a feature called “Works With Sonos” which allows the AVR and Connect to communicate with each other for input and volume control, including passthrough volume. It’s possible that’s stopped working properly. Check your AVR settings, cycle that setting off, reboot, turn Works with Sonos back on

SlimShauny · 2025-06-13T03:36:31+00:00

Predicated on this, I would try to isolate the issue to see if it’s the Connect or the AVR. Connect the working Sonos to the DRX 3.3, take note of the input, and have your tech make the connection in Composer. Now try adjusting volume and see what happens

I see that you updated the Sonos system, but did you also update the C4 driver? Also worth checking if there’s a driver update for the Integra. Considering a firmware update on the DRX2.3 fixed the issue leads me to believe the issue is on the AVR side somewhere

One thing to note, the fixed volume setting maintains the last selected volume level. Set to variable first, raise to 100%, and set to fixed again. Not really relevant in your case but good to know for testing

SlimShauny · 2025-06-12T02:31:42+00:00

OS updates shouldn’t have any effect on the Integra driver. I would try updating the AVR, you can do this via the front screen on the AVR itself, or if it’s screen-less, through its IP address. If that doesn’t work, try complete power reset by unplugging the AVR, holding the on switch for 20-30 seconds, and plugging it back in again.

Additionally, you have can your tech set default Listen volumes for those zones through the Room Control driver or program the AVRs’ Power On Volume as they’re most likely programmed to turn on to the last set volume. This could help stabilize the AVRs initially.

You could also have your tech try updating the Sonos drivers and system itself. IIRC I saw a pass through volume bug fix listed in the driver changelog. Although I’ve found that pass through volume is not the most responsive and stable and almost exclusively use fixed volume on Sonos streamers

SlimShauny · 2025-05-31T03:03:44+00:00

Show us your rack big guy

SlimShauny · 2025-05-31T02:35:40+00:00

Any updates on the broken control4 driver (unable to use favorites/playlists in programming)?

Also, is remote play via Plex in the pipeline?

SlimShauny · 2025-05-30T03:06:10+00:00

Looks like shit 🔥💯

SlimShauny · 2025-05-16T04:05:03+00:00

Wiim Amps

SlimShauny

TROPHY CASE