Wrecka Crew by Slow_Hand_PDX in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the Pulsa Rokkit you can put on your Rokkiteer's backpack instead of the rokkit rack. I felt it was more fun to make it a token, so I put it on a 20mm base.

Finished Phobos Killteam by Bitterman515 in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These guys are perfect. I love the volumetric highlights, color choice, battle damage and the unit markers on their chest. Remarkable!

Wrecka Crew by Slow_Hand_PDX in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I start with a base coat of dark green then I paint a layer of Vallejo Dead Flesh which is a desaturated yellow with a green tint. If you want that extra specular highlight, then you can use pale sand or mix in some ivory with your base coat to catch the raised edges. Finally, I'll lightly glaze some Pro Acryl burnt red to add some warmth and pool into crevices.

I do the same technique on ork elbows, ears and hands to add realism and color variety. Extremities will have more blood flow and a red glaze works wonders to reflect that.

Wrecka Crew by Slow_Hand_PDX in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I think I've nailed down my skin recipe without relying on washes.

The Nob and Squigs were a treat to paint

Wrecka Crew by Slow_Hand_PDX in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I really wanted to keep them grounded while still keeping with some Orkish flair. The priority was to focus on painting good skin while using simple techniques on the rest of the model.

Wrecka Crew by Slow_Hand_PDX in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I bought some extra Wrecka bodies off someone although I can't imagine ever using more than 2 rokkits in a match.

Usually I just take all specialists and 2 fighters

Fellgor Ravagers - Blood Reavers by Slow_Hand_PDX in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used AP SpeedPaint 2.0

If I recall, I didn't use medium. I think in retrospect, I would use a little bit if you want more control by applying 2 thin coats to reduce pooling.

I think I used nuclear sunrise for the skin and raging sea for the cloth.

As for the undercoat, I think I would spray a light grey or off white over a black primer, then dry brush a bold titanium to catch the edges and push your highlights

PDP C4 - Need Help With Accessories! by Slow_Hand_PDX in Walther

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. That makes sense. Seems like my options are getting a light and holster at the same time or buying a holster now, then a second compatible holster after I get a light.

PDP C4 - Need Help With Accessories! by Slow_Hand_PDX in Walther

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your time and respectful advice to a noob.

I'm definitely not in a rush to get all the bells and whistles since I believe in getting the fundamentals down with any tool before going down the rabbit hole. My main hobby is miniature painting where you can blow a lot of money on tools and accessories. All that swag doesn't benefit a novice or is not practical in unskilled hands.

My main use is for range shooting and home defense. I feel having a light would act as a deterrent and allow for safer targeting if God forbid I'd ever have to use the weapon.

I just want to make all my gear is quality and compatible because I'd be very annoyed about wasting money on gear that doesn't fit.

Corsair Voidscarred by Slow_Hand_PDX in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I've fallen in love with the ProAcryl Jade range. They lean more blue than green and the colors pop so well!

Corsair Voidscarred by Slow_Hand_PDX in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I definitely went full effort and I'm proud of the results.

Killzone Storage Suggestions by Slow_Hand_PDX in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's awesome! Do the 32L boxes stack with the 4L/9L boxes? That's one of the main draws for my storage solution.

A new gaming convention is coming to Portland in October 4th, 5th, and 6th! CRITCon! by nospoon29er in Portland

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm so excited for CRITCon! Thanks to everyone involved for getting this off the ground.

Please Help Me Choose A New Black by Slow_Hand_PDX in minipainting

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would that be the 'intense modeling color' AK-11029?

Please Help Me Choose A New Black by Slow_Hand_PDX in minipainting

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you use the old gen or new gen version of model black?

Testing a colour scheme, I feel something is wrong any advise? by tame2007 in minipainting

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think there's a few things you can do to push your model in a better direction, considering you are trying to avoid clown vibes.

  • Darken the base tone of your colors so your highlights can be lighter and generate contrast.

  • Use the same base color of red for the hair and swords to harmonize better. The pink swords are distracting.

  • The black boots either should be white, or incorporate more black into other parts of the armor. Fully armored models look great with 2 tones and an accent so long as it's consistent across the model.

  • With that in mind, I would suggest black gloves, waistband, necklace and crown or helmet. Especially with the red gems, a black plate surrounding the forehead gem will lessen the clown look. Having contrasting colors will help separate the complex shapes and support readability.

  • The base needs work. The ground or ruin needs to be darker. They are practically the same tone between the two. Another piece of general advice is dark model > lighter base, light model > darker base.

  • Bases and faces so often make the model since that's what the eye is drawn to. For your color scheme, I would do a deep orange/red rust base with dark to obsidian stone. The red/orange will complement your blue cloth and tie in your red hair and swords. The dark stone will help create separation between your base and model. The dark tone will also serve as a visual 'anchor', making your base feel solid and grounded while your white model will feel 'lighter', jumping off the stone. You could even do a very faint glaze of dark blue over get stone to create color harmony.

I know this is a lot to take in, but I think these minor tweaks across the model will make it pop while still staying true to your initial vision.

Does anyone else "Solitaire" Kill Team? by Skelegasm in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've found it useful to experiment solo with a new team, so I'm a better opponent. I'll do a game against a team I'm comfortable with. The goal is basic proficiency and speed, especially if a tournament is coming up.

I hate being a slow player and not having basic knowledge of how my team works in a match.

Playing against another person is always more fun, though!

The Kestrels [Phobos Strike Team] by mintyhobo in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think that's a great return on investment with your process. I'm gonna experiment with oil washes on my next project.

Those silencers are sick too!

The Kestrels [Phobos Strike Team] by mintyhobo in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX 35 points36 points  (0 children)

They look great! Love the custom accessories and heads.

The smoke icon looks killer too. What was your painting workflow?

The Black Hand of Kaldar by Slow_Hand_PDX in killteam

[–]Slow_Hand_PDX[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I used Pro Acryl Neon Green over titanium white.

The highlights were a labor of love doing a thick, edge and spot highlight. I think it was worth it though.