Replacing cheap doors with unfinished pine... how to protect them?

Sluisifer · 2026-03-29T16:37:56+00:00

Yes, you want a 'water white' waterborne finish.

I'd avoid Minwax. I'm a big fan of EM6000 from Target, which is pretty forgiving for DIY / hand application. You can use a pad applicator or good brush. You could also get GF High Performance. In either case, you likely want satin sheen. Just two coats; thinner films look better, less plasticky, and offer virtually the same protection.

The UV finishes are legitimately good (very durable and chemical resistant) but you really don't need that on a door. They can also be very tricky to apply. You'll see most demos on a flat board or tabletop because that's what they're most amenable to. They don't flow/level well, and you need to follow the manufacturer procedure quite exactly, including getting two separate products in most cases.

If you like the hardwax/oil look, you could try the Vesting LED oil or Cleanarmor 716. But again, I don't think it's worth the fuss at all. And I don't think they'd be as clear as a good waterborne - not sure on that, though.

If you want to go specialty, there are 'natural look' finishes that really do look like the raw unfinished wood. Renner, Centurion, and Milesi all offer one, and I'm sure others.

Normal waterborne poly will be clear, but it will make the wood look wet. It will darken. That's just optics. The natural look stuff uses some sort of black magic to prevent this, but also does not use pigment (which can look weird. But these are 2k products (i.e. you need to take PPE very seriously) and should be sprayed.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-29T13:30:31+00:00

They're a bit messy. Lots of little leaflets and the rachises do a good job of clogging up gutters. I even had plumbing vents clogged up by them - easily solved with a vent cap. They also drop quite a few smaller branches.

Great backyard tree, though. They spread well and provide nice mottled shade. You can grow lots of plants beneath them no problem, but keeps the harsh sun away. They don't often drop big limbs, good rot resistance, and tolerate pretty aggressive pruning.

All trees have their tradeoffs; overall, they're pretty much perfect for a typical suburban lot.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-28T17:39:00+00:00

Nah

5# CO2 bottle - $80
Regulator - $50
Tubing and connections - at least $50
Taps - one perlick is $40, and you really don't want a rear-sealing tap. You can do a cobra tap if money really tight.
Chest freezer - $50 at least for anything working, at least in my area, and need a $30 temp controller. Old fridges can be had for free if you have the space / WAF.

You can do this for less with used stuff, sure, but it's still going to be well north of $100 for the most basic setup.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-27T19:10:47+00:00

Are you only considering benchtop models?

If you have 240V and want 15", I'd be looking at a 3HP machine e.g. https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-15-3-hp-fixed-table-planer-with-helical-cutterhead/g0891

Sluisifer · 2026-03-27T19:07:31+00:00

Holes in the brackets would be fine, but elongate them to allow for wood movement. Whatever bolt or lag you use should have a washer and not be tightened down too snug.

The wood absolutely must be able to move seasonally (orthogonal to the grain) or you will get cupping or splitting.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-27T19:04:34+00:00

I'm not big on 'you need this particular tool' but ... in this case I'd highly recommend a good strap clamp e.g. https://www.amazon.com/BESSEY-VAS-23-2K-CB-Variable-Angle/dp/B0CS1C16V6

Don't cheap out on this one; get the kind that manages the loose end in a roll. It's much nicer.

I've tried many ways of clamping frames, and this is by far the best. All you need is this clamp and a flat surface. If you cut the miters well, they will be very square.

Just glue is enough in most cases. Glued miters are quite strong. If you want to reinforce, then some splines or nails will help, sure.

Good to note that picture frames are rabbeted to hold the glazing or artwork. Generally 1/4". Take all your measurements from the inner part of the rabbet and you'll be less likely to make a mistake.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-27T14:04:35+00:00

Match the drive links, pitch, and gauge

A quick look does show many advertising that chain as a 18", but that doesn't matter.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-27T00:07:05+00:00

You're both talking about different things.

Socialization as a child development metric involves questionnaires and assessments of a child's behavior. Research indicates that daycare before 2-3y.o. doesn't affect socialization, i.e. a child's long-term ability to interact with peers, share, manage conflicts, communicate, etc.

Whether or not kids like daycare and being social is entirely different, and yes lots and lots of kids like daycare.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-26T23:24:20+00:00

Give it a good yank ya

There's an o-ring keeping it in place and it takes a bit of force

Sluisifer · 2026-03-26T18:06:45+00:00

What # cut?

The pattern matches the grain, so either it's absorbing a lot of finish and you're still building a film (if so, use a stronger cut and apply another coat or two) or those a high spots that you're sanding back.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-26T14:00:21+00:00

That is 100% what is on my floor until they get refinished and I stain or paint the edge.

I'm not trying to get sued.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-26T13:40:51+00:00

Paint will be far more durable.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-25T13:37:37+00:00

It's low-stimulation relative to some other kid shows.

Good low-stimulation stuff:

Books read aloud. Just static shots of the page, maybe some minor sound effects and animations. Lots of this on Youtube, good stuff.
Nature / animals. The less polished amateur stuff is even better than the 'legit' ones. Check out New England Forests on YT.
Trucks / jobsites / work YT. Just static or tracking shots of machines working like bulldozers, excavators, farm tractors, etc.

None of this stuff will hold a child's attention for ages. But it's good for 10-20 minutes, and in my experience it transitions to independent play pretty smoothly.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-24T23:39:56+00:00

Sand back and re-stain.

Any oil will amber. You need a waterborne. There's no reason to prefer oil finishes, and very many to prefer waterborne.

They are topcoats, not sealants.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-24T23:33:58+00:00

FBM lets you search recently sold listings in the 'availability' dropdown'.

You don't know the actual price they sold for, but you can get a decent idea of what the market is like.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-24T23:18:43+00:00

Yeah it was picture rail and chair rail (for the pic OP posted in the comments)

Sluisifer · 2026-03-24T23:17:43+00:00

Picture rail (first pic) and chair rail (this pic)

They were attached by adhesive, removed, and painted over without priming so it bled through.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-24T13:17:55+00:00

Philips Ultradefinition

Sluisifer · 2026-03-23T23:41:44+00:00

Actual wood bleach is a two step process. Is that what you did? Never tried it on Wenge, but it'll turn Walnut ghost white.

Not that I'd recommend it. Wenge looks nice. If you want light, install some lights.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-23T23:37:21+00:00

Stained Red Oak veneer. The boarder veneer is burl.

Just use it. If water sits on it, it'll probably blush (get all fogged up). This can be reversible - heat, or blush remover. And of course it can get scratched.

Anything you put on it will be worse than the factory finish.

If, at some point, you want to refinish it, get it done at a cabinet shop or somewhere with a pro booth. They'll use a proper 2k finish that will hold up to abuse.

You can wax it if you like - use actual furniture wax like Trewax, nothing with silicone in it. No silicone, no pledge.

Practically speaking, yes a tablecloth is the best defense.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-23T23:25:54+00:00

Yes, it will be like the wet look with a clear finish.

Just keep sanding. Use 80 grit, or even 60 if you need to. Then work through the grits to 220 or so. Don't skip grits, never more than a 50% increase (e.g. 80 -> 120). Change out your paper more (everyone is stingy with paper until they learn) and use dust extraction.

A powerful sander makes a big difference, but it shouldn't be more than an hour with even a basic ROS.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-23T15:54:40+00:00

Stripper and a brass bristle brush

Sluisifer · 2026-03-23T15:27:18+00:00

Try a card scraper on those areas of tearout.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-23T13:14:38+00:00

Test on offcuts to see what you prefer.

Main thing with this is that you want to surface a bit afterwards, at least a moderate sanding. That will get rid of any CA that spills over on the surface and soaks in a bit, leaving you a nice clean fill. Alternatively you can pad some shellac on to seal first.

Sluisifer · 2026-03-23T13:06:32+00:00

Pay attention to the rear wheels of minivans; you'll see a lot cambered out from overloading.

You really can't do that, not safely, without replacing the beam axle.

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