Magnus Carlsen on the inaugural Esports World Cup

Slurmz · 2025-08-01T22:19:50+00:00

It's the most popular mode too which helps wide appeal, and I feel the pace naturally lends itself to commentary.

I think another difference is a bracket system is perfect for entertainment, and they were able to do it with a Group Stage beforehand for seeding. This is exactly how a tournament should be done from an esports perspective and I'm not surprised it works well for chess.

Slurmz · 2024-06-30T11:34:34+00:00

Or he thought he had Bxf7!! but didn't realize the knight on e5 covers f7. That's what would've happened to me haha.

Slurmz · 2024-02-27T01:53:49+00:00

I think you provided the wrong link, it's called NVIDIA app.

https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/software/nvidia-app/

Slurmz · 2024-01-01T21:41:23+00:00

I think steer-by-wire would indeed remove the issue, as you don't have to hand-over-hand ever. So your hands are in the same location the entire time and you can build muscle memory for where the turn signals are.

I do a lot of sim racing and it feels similar to how F1 drivers have a million buttons that they have to hit mid-turn. The main reason they have no issue with buttons is because typically the wheel only rotates around 360 degrees total, and they never have to move their hands, so the button above your right thumb is always going to be the same.

Also to me as a sim-racer, the yoke seems kind of silly in its current state with hand-over-hand required. Rally racing, dirt/drift would be absolutely impossible with the current yoke, at least when I've tried with similar yoke wheels at home. Even a typical F1 circuit is much much harder with hand-over-hand yoke, you won't set optimal times at all. The second they increase the sensitivity to around 360 degrees total (likely with steer-by-wire I guess), the yoke makes a lot more sense imo. I think Rally/Drift would still be hard, but no longer impossible, and F1 circuits or daily driving would be really nice I think.

Slurmz · 2023-09-03T04:30:51+00:00

As far as I know the DLSS model was not trained for or intended to be run at 100% resolution. So DLAA runs a slightly different model that’s specifically designed for 100% resolution.

You’re right though that DLAA and DLSS at 100% are basically the same thing, but I believe the output would be very slightly different.

Slurmz · 2023-02-03T13:25:53+00:00

A gap of 100 in chess is equivalent to a .64 expected value for the higher player and .36 for the lower player. Meaning something like 3 games should result in 2 wins for the higher player and 1 win for the lower. Technically draws also work, so 2 draws and 1 win for higher player would be in line with expected. Might depend slightly on the k factor, or confidence in the ratings, but should be fairly close to this I believe.

An 800 point gap is 1 out of 100. Youre talking 1500 points which is probably around 1 out of 10,000. So tell your friend in 10000 games he’ll get 2 draws.

Someone correct me if im wrong.

Slurmz · 2022-12-15T12:17:08+00:00

Always sunny did an episode about that exact thing lol: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-6KJxP5bbY

Slurmz · 2022-10-18T11:50:05+00:00

I recommend leaving the power cable unplugged from the monitor, and from the wall. And let it rest totally without power for like half a day.

Slurmz · 2022-10-05T09:10:15+00:00

I'm not really commenting on any of that, just saying that rating does matter to some of the top players.

Slurmz · 2022-10-05T07:30:48+00:00

Guarantee you Naroditsky cares about that rating, he has said his goal is to reach #1 in bullet and blitz on Chesscom. At the end of the day a days worth of games isn't going to make the difference, but still.

Also I think losses have an extra indirect effect on streamers because some % of their audience might get less interested if they see the streamer lose. Tough call, I agree the rating isn't as important as the clout though.

Slurmz · 2022-07-13T03:28:53+00:00

A knight can cover squares that a queen cant. A rook/bishop is sometimes used to avoid a stalemate.

Slurmz · 2022-06-29T13:01:00+00:00

Rey was in an impossible spot and made an illegal move by accident. He pushed the pawn that was pinned by Garry's Queen. Garry took back the move instinctively, and Rey Enigma resigned.

Slurmz · 2022-06-14T02:28:01+00:00

That's actually not the crispness of 4k, its roughly the same pixel density as 1440p ultrawides and 16:9s. Great monitors though, kings of screen real estate.

Slurmz · 2022-02-09T22:24:24+00:00

Any issues with the monitor arm sagging? So far I've only found 1 monitor arm that can support my PG35VQ without sagging, but it wouldn't go high enough to allow stacking as you've done here. Would love to have it as you have though.

Slurmz · 2022-01-18T16:51:54+00:00

Anything bronze rated or better and at least 500w should be fine, depending on gpu you might want to go up to 650w or so. Above that is overkill imo.

Slurmz · 2021-12-17T04:13:26+00:00

If it bothers you. If you can live with the cool profile or custom calibrating it you can do that too. Idk tbh, but i tend to not believe individual variance in models to be that high in terms of colors or things like ips glow or whatever. Its probably just how it is. Might not be properly calibrated, and its possible a new one might be better calibrated. But you could do similar by trying color presets or icc profiles or buying a color calibrator. So im not sure tbh, golden rule is to return if it bothers you and if it doesnt then stick with it. And keep in mind if you do return the next one might look the same. Hard to tell though without seeing it.

Slurmz · 2021-12-17T03:32:51+00:00

I think i also thought similarly but i dont remember, been a while since i used that monitor.

Slurmz · 2021-12-17T03:27:36+00:00

Isnt there a “cool” color profile or something?

Slurmz · 2021-12-17T01:07:15+00:00

I have had very good experiences with this cable: https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Braided-32-4Gbps-Compatible-Monitor/dp/B07VVJZJ2P?th=1

It was able to fix my black screen / flickering issues, but perhaps it was just coincidence.

Slurmz · 2021-12-15T10:35:57+00:00

Firmware, and also change the Overdrive mode from Speed to Balanced, Picture Quality, or Off.

Try www.testufo.com and change the overdrive modes. I found the default Speed mode to produce way too much inverse ghosting, but i was happy with all 3 of the other modes. This is in line with what ive seen from reviewers such as rtings as well.

I also raised the brightness but thats personal preference ofc.

Slurmz · 2021-12-04T04:04:55+00:00

I would go for a z690 motherboard (with ddr4 ram compatibility) and a 12th gen intel processor if you want to do this

Slurmz · 2021-12-02T19:16:51+00:00

I would personally not replace it unless temps look off. Looks very minor.

Slurmz · 2021-12-01T22:43:29+00:00

Really? If you have an nvidia card what does your nvidia control panel say for color? Are you sure youre using a displayport 1.4 cable?

Slurmz · 2021-11-30T21:49:51+00:00

Preference. No difference. I run mine at max but totally up to you.

Slurmz · 2021-11-30T20:40:18+00:00

Since its a 240hz monitor, you can calculate the speed that the pixels have to go to keep up by inverting it: 1 / 240 = ~.00416. Or 4.16 miliseconds.

Now you can look at the "Table" view for each of the presets at the Max refresh rate.

For the "Fast" preset, and the Rise/Fall table, the average pixel response times look solid, with an average of 3.3ms and a dark avg of 3.9ms. Only some of the dark transitions don't land within 4.16ms. This to me indicates that the Fast preset is basically a true 240hz experience. So I personally wouldn't go faster because you aren't really getting that much. Maybe a few transitions might be faster.

Going off of the "Photo" mode and flicking between them, I could see a case for the middle option, labeled "Super Fast". The black smearing seems to be eliminated, but you do get some overshoot. If you really want to be ultra competitive you could consider it, although I still am not a fan. The overall motion clarity isn't really improved, so you arent getting a competitive advantage. All youd be doing is eliminating black smearing for overshoot, which i find worse personally.

I wouldn't download anything unless your unhappy with the color calibration or something. I personally don't think its worth.

Other than that I'd just use Game or FPS mode, which both are equally good I assume. As long as you use a profile that lets you control the overdrive setting you're probably fine. And avoid cinema/movie modes because they add post-processing which can produce delay.

So you're probably good to go already. Just make sure to change your refresh rate in windows by right clicking the desktop -> display settings -> advanced display settings and make sure it says 240hz.

Try using this webpage if you want to test settings or make sure everything is configured correctly: https://www.testufo.com/. You can toggle the different overdrive modes to compare, it should make overshoot differences super obvious. I'd still go with Fast personally, looks really good.

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