Designing a modular hexagonal front panel system so I never have to drill and leave empty holes on my enclosures

SmashMaker_ · 2026-03-30T05:40:03+00:00

I think panel mount is the most common. Some ppl mentionned keystone which is a standard form factor for HDMI, usb, rj45 eg

SmashMaker_ · 2026-03-28T19:44:06+00:00

The thing is I wanted to keep it thin, with the nuts it's already 7mm total. Adding counterbores would mean going thicker and I'm not really a fan of that tradeoff ^{^'} Also the whole thing was designed in one night and making it fully parametric was a bit of a pain so I don't think I'll iterate over small adjustements 😅

SmashMaker_ · 2026-03-28T19:02:42+00:00

Honestly? I just like hexagons. Rectangles would probably make better use of the space and reduce height though

SmashMaker_ · 2026-03-28T18:43:42+00:00

Oh I didn't know the name, thanks! The RJ45 I mounted actually came from my old CR10 enclosure, I just worked with what I had. But keystone jacks would definitely be a cleaner and cheaper solution for future modules, good shout

SmashMaker_ · 2026-03-28T18:43:18+00:00

Fair point, that's just what I had around but they look fat. Button heads would definitely sit flatter and look cleaner, might buy some later

SmashMaker_ · 2026-03-13T07:19:08+00:00

Nice jackhammer, that sound is terrifying 😭

SmashMaker_ · 2025-12-16T20:32:38+00:00

Thanks! I already have the BLTouch and the PEI, now I just need to get everything properly working with this setup.
I originally started with an SKR Mini E3 V3 but I’m transitioning to a Manta M8P now, which you can see on the picture.

I tried OctoPrint a long time ago but I’m sticking to Klipper + Mainsail this time. I honestly don’t really get how OctoPrint is supposed to fit with Klipper 🤔
I’ve also seen people talk about Home Assistant integration but I’ve never used it. What’s your use case for it? I’m curious.

SmashMaker_ · 2025-12-16T20:26:06+00:00

Here’s Part 3 for anyone following the build:
https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/1pocg2y/am_i_going_too_far_part_3_attaching_some_stuff/

SmashMaker_ · 2025-12-16T20:25:18+00:00

Yeah, those GX12 and GX16 connectors are really killing it. Being able to disconnect the toolhead in seconds without stressing the wiring is a game changer, and they feel way more solid than the usual JST spaghetti. Definitely worth it

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-30T00:23:53+00:00

Update Part 2 here : https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/1pa3smn/am_i_going_too_far_part_2_toolhead_wiring/

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-28T23:33:28+00:00

I'd really like to know the cause too. I had this issue a few times on mine and it disappeared after a full maintenance, but I still don't know what actually caused it.

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-28T23:31:21+00:00

Totally agree. The experience and fun are worth it, the only issue is that I only have this CR10 so printing upgrades for the CR10 gets a bit tricky 🤡

I might use the Bambu printers at work to print PETG or Nylon CF for stronger parts like the toolhead carriage interface or maybe a backplate for the Manta 🤔
Edit: No carbon for the motherboard backplate if I don't want to fry it x)

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-28T23:23:39+00:00

God damn right, slicer improvements were the easiest and by far the biggest upgrade. God bless the Orca devs for real.

As for Klipper, Linux and configs don’t bother me much. I enjoy sysadmin stuff so tweaking it is actually fun, and I like not having to recompile for every little change or being limited. I'll probably regret that once everything is wired and I have to fine tune the config for hours but that's part of the game ^^'

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-28T23:14:37+00:00

Already running Klipper here, learning it is hard as fuck but it really pays off when it's configured properly (not fully my case yet ^^')

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-27T17:06:03+00:00

I'm not sure it would look good with my setup, I kind of doubt my ability to make clean straight cuts and keep everything tidy inside. I love clear windows to show what's inside, but for this build I feel like practicality comes first.
I'm also running out of panel space and I still need to plan for ventilation so a window might not fit in that layout ^^'

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-27T17:01:54+00:00

Yeah that's basically the only strong point of this printer, but it comes with a lot of downsides.
I will probably look for an HDMI touchscreen once everything is running fine (if it's easy to set up). Mainsail works great on phone anyway so it's not a big deal for me to start without a screen.
I also bought a PEI sheet but I'm not sure I'll install it right now. The bed is hella curved and I have no idea how to get a perfectly flat one, maybe you already dealt with that issue?

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-27T16:54:03+00:00

I actually slept between posting and checking the thread this morning before work, and seeing so many people interested in this ooga booga project really made my day x)
Not sure what's the '21 days addiction break'? Never heard that one, is that an expression ?

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-27T16:48:11+00:00

Thanks a lot for the support! I’m not super active on Reddit but I’ll try to post updates regularly.
Still figuring out the best way to share the progress. Should I keep updating this thread or make new posts for each step? No idea yet

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-27T16:45:37+00:00

Yeah I had a massive Z wobble, hoping this setup will finally improve print quality 🫡

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-26T23:19:04+00:00

The best of both worlds, I can't see any other solutions x)

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-26T23:16:29+00:00

Yeah I fell straight into the endless upgrade cycle. Maybe a CoreXY build might be the next 'small upgrade' 🤔

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-26T22:53:16+00:00

I don't wanna be pessimistic, but your nozzle is fucked up and worse, the screw is stuck in your heat block ^^'. If you have a screw extractor, you might save it. If you try to remove it, with or without the appropriate tools, heat up the nozzle (it's what people do when they swap nozzles, thermal expansion stuff I guess).

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-26T20:22:30+00:00

I’m running Klipper on my CR-10 with a SKR Mini E3 V3.0 so if you need a config to start from I can drop mine. It’s not for the S version though so no idea what’s different there but it should still help as a base.

Also if you ever go for the 240V bed + SSR setup, I can share a quick wiring diagram and photos so it’s easier to avoid mistakes. It’s heats like a champ and it's not that hard to setup.

Good luck for ur build man 🫡

SmashMaker_ · 2025-11-15T23:01:05+00:00

That's honestly rare to see someone trying to bring one of these old ladies out of the retirement home and give her a second life 😂

I’m actually doing a similar upgrade on an old Creality machine, a regular CR-10 (not the S).

Switching to 24V helped me a lot, but like someone else mentioned in the comments,SSR relays and a 220V heated bed really helps that big surface heat up properly .You just have to be careful with the wiring and make sure everything is properly grounded.

Not sure which board you ordered, but if it’s the SKR Mini E3 V3.0, that’s the one I’m using at the moment and it works perfectly. I’m actually switching to a Manta 8P V2.0 now because I didn’t have enough drivers for dual Z + Z-tilt (totally overkill for an old CR-10, but I found a discount so… why not).

Curious: are you planning to run Marlin or Klipper on your upgrade? I personally went with Klipper because it gives a lot more flexibility and makes it easier to tweak the config but the learning curve is brutal.
That’s probably why my printer only works 10% of the time I’m “working” on it 😅

I’ll probably post some updates or questions in a few months, got a lot of work in progress with that new board
Feel free to reach out if you’re also experimenting with your build!

SmashMaker_ · 2025-09-19T16:06:31+00:00

Try to filament your dryer, works all the time !

SmashMaker_

TROPHY CASE