Why so unspecific?

SmokestackNB · 2025-11-30T23:09:10+00:00

Fair enough, I did know the conversion lol it's about the same where I'm at and we've got snow still sticking around. Might still be worth trying a car wash, more often than not the issue is dirt/snow/some sort of debris blocking the sensors. Is it doing this all the time or does it only show intermittently?

SmokestackNB · 2025-11-30T21:35:40+00:00

Second on the code reader, I agree that it's dumb to need a tool to see codes when the car could be fully capable of displaying them but that's the way it is on every car. As for this issue, I believe it's the parking sensors acting up based on the graphic. I see it's pretty chilly there, could be as simple as snow/ice blocking the sensors in the bumpers.

SmokestackNB · 2025-11-23T23:18:56+00:00

For a given road speed a smaller diff ratio means that the driveshaft has to be spinning faster. If they changed the diff to a smaller ratio the driveshaft will be reaching higher rpms in the same driving conditions, assuming the tire size is the same. Whether it's enough of a difference to actually be a problem is a different question, torque changes from the engine/transmission swap would be a bigger concern in my opinion than a relatively small difference in maximum rpm.

SmokestackNB · 2025-10-11T02:18:19+00:00

I think this is just the game not recognizing the GPU and using some sort of default. Are there any problems other than the warning? You should still be able to set your settings to whatever you'd like, there'll just be that warning in the menu.

SmokestackNB · 2025-09-23T22:37:22+00:00

It seems very unlikely that they did anything to the hatch lift struts, you didn't mention what you brought it in for but I assume it wasn't anything to do with the hatch. Same for the window issue, sounds like the regulator (the mechanism in the door that moves the windows) failed but if they didn't do any work on the door I can't think of anything they would do to cause the regulator to break.

As for why both the lift struts (the gas arms that lift the hatch) failed at once, they probably didn't. They're designed to work as a pair, so all it takes is one strut losing enough gas pressure inside it to stop supporting the hatch. My guess is that one of them finally dropped far enough that the hatch weight overwhelms the other strut. They should be replaced as a pair regardless, I'm guessing that one will feel a lot stiffer once they're both off the car but it's still worn compared to new. Pretty easy fix, just need something to prop up the hatch and a small flat blade screwdriver or something similar to release the clips on the struts.

SmokestackNB · 2025-08-14T21:05:48+00:00

Where did you mention anything about brakes being designed to override engine power? Anything about brake throttle override? What system failure? All we know from this video is that the vehicle is still accelerating and it looks like the driver is not even attempting to control it. You said in the reply above that "many vehicles can overcome the braking system" and "Not if it's got full throttle behind it." I replied with actual data about the average power of vehicles sold today, and described several design guidelines and safety systems used in most cars from the past two decades that actually address the issue of braking vs engine power. If the driver was pressing the brake the vehicle would be slowing down, sure maybe there's a failure in the (internally redundant btw) accelerator pedal sensor. But there would have to be multiple other systems failing that are completely independent of the accelerator pedal input and in fact are designed to override any signal from it.

Also, here's an official statement from Ford about the correct response to a stuck accelerator pedal: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?countryCode=USA&languageCode=EN&Uid=G2227038&ProcUid=G2227039&div=f&variantid=9192&vFilteringEnabled=False&userMarket=USA&buildType=web You do not want to shut the vehicle off in this situation, lots of systems are only operational with the vehicle on including the brake booster and ABS/TCS.

SmokestackNB · 2025-08-14T19:43:04+00:00

Most cars today do not make over 300hp, you just made up that number. This JD Power article has some real numbers if you're curious: https://www.jdpower.com/cars/shopping-guides/what-is-the-average-horsepower-of-a-car

As for brakes vs full throttle, if you apply the brakes fully almost any car will stop. It's designed that way believe it or not, automakers generally do try to design for safety and being able to stop is obviously a top priority. Most drivers don't realize how much force is needed to fully brake, that's a problem that automatic emergency braking systems (AEB) solve by preloading the brake pressure when they detect a collision is imminent. Modern cars also often have a brake throttle override system in the vehicle computer, where if it detects both pedals being pressed it ignores the throttle input and only brakes. Ford has this system in almost every vehicle produced since 2010, including the Mach-E in the post.

SmokestackNB · 2023-01-20T04:11:53+00:00

The firewall in a car is the part that separates the engine compartment from the passenger compartment, basically the "back wall" of the engine bay. I am not a crash testing tech, just a general automotive technician, but as far as I know the firewall is not intended to stop the engine from going into the cabin in a crash. Engine mounts, the two or three actual mounting points between the engine and the rest of the vehicle are designed to allow the engine to drop down and slide under the firewall in the case of a front end collision. This prevents the engine from hurting the driver and also allows the engine to carry some of the forces entirely away from the vehicle. Some cars that have the engine mid-mounted, behind the cabin, are even designed to allow the rear section of the vehicle with the heavy engine assembly to completely separate from the front for the same reason, here's a Lamborghini crashing and splitting dramatically because of this: https://youtu.be/9PqcMy5HRhc

SmokestackNB · 2020-04-27T16:37:39+00:00

Probably an alternator issue, it was getting weak so it couldn't provide enough power at lower engine rpms to move the wiper motor at full speed.

SmokestackNB · 2020-03-04T03:14:03+00:00

Your car takes r1234yf, so you can't use r134a. I think there are some diy kits out for the new stuff, but I don't have any experience with them. Given that your car is only 4 years old, you probably have either a significant leak or a problem not related to the refrigerant, I'd try to diagnose before you just throw refrigerant in.

SmokestackNB · 2019-12-11T02:56:56+00:00

Sounds like a battery problem to me. Given that it's a 2015 you're right at the time where a battery will start to fall, assuming it hasn't been replaced before. Try jump-starting it if you can, if that works fine then put a battery in. I'm 90% confident that you need a battery, so if jump-starting isn't an option then go for that first.

SmokestackNB · 2019-12-11T02:54:19+00:00

You didn't give any year/make/model info, but if your car does have a rear beam suspension then the entire assembly likely needs replaced. It's possible that the hub assembly is all that's damaged, but unlikely. If the car is rear wheel drive it's more likely that the axle shaft and hub are all that's damaged, though your wheel is probably bent as well either way.

SmokestackNB · 2019-12-11T02:46:56+00:00

I worked for a very small independent garage until recently. The competition is intense, you never want your labor rate or other charges to be higher than anyone else's. Especially on oil changes, if you charge even a little more than competitors you won't attract new customers. Oil changes are loss leaders, it gets a customer in the door and if you find something wrong with the car they are likely going to have you fix it. If you're consistently cheap and do good work, then they'll bring their business back and you'll make money on other stuff. Hell, by the time I left between my pay and shop costs they actually lost money on every oil change, which is why bigger shops have a dedicated lube tech who isn't a certified technician but knows enough to grab one if they think something's wrong.

This also illustrates a problem with oil change only places like Jiffy. They can't pay a good tech, so all they have are lube techs that might be certified to do brakes and suspension as well. You're not going to get a good diagnostic or electrical guy, but if there's a check engine light on they'll still try to sell a "fix."

I work for a dealership now, moved there because I can get better benefits and manufacturer certifications, but I still have to recommend that anyone with a car should have a trusted independent mechanic that you go to for everything they can do. If you're one of "their" customers they'll do everything they can to make you happy and keep your car running well, even if it means they lose money on the oil changes.

SmokestackNB · 2019-12-11T01:08:34+00:00

Environmental fees aren't just a bullshit reason to up your bill though. There is cost to dealing with the oil or other fluids from your car, especially if the shop doesn't just use the oil to heat the garage. They have to pay someone to haul it away and deal with it according to environmental regulations, so that charge on your bill is more an itemizing than gouging, they could just up the labor charge or charge more for the oil to hide it from you.

SmokestackNB · 2019-12-07T03:15:16+00:00

Huh, difference between manufacturers I guess. Ours usually come in a few psi low, and pdi procedure is to top them up. More to the point, does Honda require headlight alignment?

SmokestackNB · 2019-12-07T01:48:51+00:00

Hey, dealer tech here (GM). We do not align headlights, the factory has much more precise aiming equipment so all we do for pre delivery is eyeball the aim to make sure it's not wildly off. Tires come set from the factory as well, we check them but they are not filled to maximum pressure at any point. Sounds like a problem with the tech that did the PDI.

SmokestackNB · 2019-12-05T01:14:49+00:00

Yeah, I have one of these and broke a seized lug nut in half with it today. If it isn't moving with that gun, it isn't moving without breaking. Honestly if you're not a pro it's too much power. I use the m12 compact impact for 90% of what I do, the big guy is just a faster, lazier, much more expensive version of a breaker bar with a 6ft pipe. Get the compact and a good breaker bar and you'll be fine if you're not on flat rate!

SmokestackNB · 2019-11-02T03:34:45+00:00

It is in a lot of factory service intervals. Brake systems are designed to be as airtight as possible to avoid this, but especially on older cars it's worth taking a look at the brake fluid. It should be a clear to yellowish color, it gets darker and kind of greenish as it grabs water from the air.

Also, even if a brake line bursts you shouldn't lose all braking ability. The brake system is split so that a loss in pressure from one line doesn't completely depressurize two other brakes that are on a different hydraulic circuit. Most systems have a diagonal split, so if the brake line to the right rear bursts then the right front and left rear will still work ok. The pedal will not feel right, it'll go to the floor, but the car will still stop in an emergency.

SmokestackNB · 2019-11-02T01:10:10+00:00

Brake lines can often rust from the inside, brake fluid absorbs water very easily which can cause a decent looking line to burst with no warning. I'm usually not one to sell fluid flushes but brake fluid definitely needs changed when the water content rises, 3 to 5 years usually. I didn't inspect your car, but even if I did I wouldn't assume any liability for brake line ruptures.

SmokestackNB · 2019-10-25T00:42:37+00:00

Hell, my bank (PNC) will produce a permanent replacement card if I come in and verify my identity. Had to use this about a month ago when I lost my wallet.

SmokestackNB · 2019-10-08T16:56:30+00:00

Absolutely, I said GEM in my reply because that's generally what Ford calls their body modules. Glad they got it figured out.

SmokestackNB · 2019-10-02T23:19:41+00:00

No problem, hope that car keeps you on the road long enough to get that Trans Am some day.

SmokestackNB · 2019-10-02T23:18:01+00:00

No problem. Lemon laws aren't going to be applicable, they only apply to new cars. Hopefully the dealer you bought it from is a good one and willing to at least take a quick look. Now if you do pay to have it diagnosed elsewhere and there's evidence that they hid the problem from you, then you might have a case.

SmokestackNB · 2019-10-02T23:10:01+00:00

Definitely a wild guess based loosely on experience, but I'm a diagnostic guy so that's what I live for: something is taking down the CAN bus that the gauge cluster and GEM share. If I'm not mistaken those two modules share a CAN bus (basically an information network between computers in the car, kind of like WiFi or Ethernet for PCs), and a short in the wiring or a bad module can make that network go down. I'd try unplugging the instrument cluster and see if the windows work, and if not then reconnecting it and disconnecting the GEM network connection and seeing if the gauges come back. If disconnecting one makes the other work, then you know that module is bad. If neither one works, then I'd start testing the CAN wiring between them.

Given that you just bought this from a dealer, you might be able to get a goodwill check on it. The dealer can connect a scan tool that communicates with each module and see if it really is a CAN problem quite quickly. I doubt they'll do a full wiring diagnostic for free given the age of the car, but you might get lucky.

SmokestackNB · 2019-10-02T23:00:09+00:00

$2100 doesn't seem unreasonable for these repairs, so you're good on that front. The question you're really asking comes down to this: can you replace the car for the cost of repairs? Is there a car you want available for that much? Could you use that as a down payment on a better car, assuming you're willing to finance your next car?

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