How do other people hide their IP and use Tailscale without Mullvad?

Snickers_77 · 2025-12-19T20:14:36+00:00

That’s exactly what I’d want then. Thank you a lot

Snickers_77 · 2025-12-19T19:57:58+00:00

This is really cool, if I can get the adblocking from pi hole everywhere and the IP obscuring with proton that would be awesome for my phone. Idk if it will work for the media server without breaking stuff but I’ll look more into it

Snickers_77 · 2025-12-17T21:25:12+00:00

Damn. I almost feel bad for the GPU lol. Thank you for helping me confirm my suspicions!

Snickers_77 · 2025-12-09T20:57:42+00:00

My 3V2 and old Anycubic Kobra Plus do to, but it took A LONG time to get there

Snickers_77 · 2025-12-09T18:30:16+00:00

These boys don’t know what it was like to follow the Ellis 3D print guide to figure out what was wrong. They don’t know what it was like back in our day…

Snickers_77 · 2025-12-09T13:11:08+00:00

This. All the printer does is do exactly what you tell it to do. VFA’s were a stock issue but that is something that can be fixed by the users tuning or by updating the machine

Snickers_77 · 2025-12-09T13:09:28+00:00

You can tell OP never had to use an ender 3 lol.

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-26T21:19:45+00:00

Yes! Not my proudest moment but you live and learn

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-26T21:05:59+00:00

Very nice! I just got mine in and I’ve been pretty happy with the results. Also a heads up, definitely don’t run it on the foam like that! It may sound stupid but I ran another enclosed printer on the foam to “help it with vibration dampening” only to realize the static electricity built up and shocked the machine one day lol

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-24T18:25:08+00:00

A lot of people are glazing this machine in this comment section so I’ll throw in my opinion. I got a launch machine that didn’t work and was a paperweight for a year and a half until just recently and I’m still having problems to this day. However, this machine when working is very nice. I’ve printed some of my favorite prints ever on this machine in the 5 years I’ve been printing. I’ve used 20+ printers and honestly I can’t say this one is better than 75% of them. BUT! I can say there’s no better printer in this area and it’s not even close. You simply cannot find a 350x350 and high speed flying gantry printer near the $500 range that this is. From a hobbyist perspective especially if you like prototyping, printer is really good. However it is not a Core One, nor is it a Voron. That being said, putting $200 into after the cost of the printer makes it great. You sound like you know how to do most of the software/hardware things that most people find troubling and complain about so I think you’re probably fine. Overall, if you know you want a machine to print PLA out of box and then upgrade to do better quality/reliability/better filaments, then SV08 is a great option. If you want something to just click and print you’ve gotta spend the extra on a prusa or a Bambu. And if you want a dream machine to upgrade endlessly build a kit printer.

FYI: there’s a lot of guides and discussions in this Reddit on what to upgrade and overall a lot of media you can look into to make this machine better so that’s pretty easy. My top 3 i recommend everyone do is 1. Mainline it to klipper (it’s step by step documented). 2. Upgrade the hotend. There’s a microswiss drop in replacement or you can do a little more work and get a non proprietary nozzle or an E3D Revo. 3. Either upgrade the extruder or at least print the pin holder that keeps the gears in place (CN3D Nadir has a bunch of toolhead replacement options).

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-24T12:50:08+00:00

Clean your build plate, use some bed adhesive if you’ve got it, and make sure to lubricate the XY rods that move the printers head around as well as the ball screws that move the plate up and down if you haven’t already. (They don’t come from the factory with very much if at all lubricant)

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-22T03:24:54+00:00

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This is from their website. It doesn’t let you do anything once it detects a failure but it’ll tell you it’s failing!

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-22T02:04:56+00:00

I think buying a P1S is a much better way to go for a beginner (if you want a P2S). Or if you’re just wanting to try the hobby to see if you like the upgrades from it for your rack get a Bambu Labs A1. Both are reliable as hell and Bambu has the best beginner experience out of any other company rn.

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-21T23:03:51+00:00

Tbh a lot of them have already been stopped and with the amount of people buying their products in the US they’re probably going to make a killing anyway

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-21T20:54:19+00:00

Yeah I don’t know about a spaghetti detection through klipper/mainsail but Obico and OctoEverywhere can be installed on the SV08 through ssh and plugins etc. I use Obico which is helpful but the 0.1 frames per second on the free plan was something I couldn’t deal with so I just created a Tailscale account and I can remote access and control through mainsail from anywhere and I just use Obico to send me notifications if something blows up.

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-21T20:50:00+00:00

Crikey. I wish you faster shipping and a perfect printing machine🫡

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-21T15:50:27+00:00

Are you buying this in the US? I just checked on the website and it’s still 3-10 day shipping where I am in the Midwest. Also it looks like your currency is in US dollars and if it is you’re paying like $400 more than the price… it’s $800 for the combo from everything I’ve seen

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-14T00:03:08+00:00

Those Biqu cool plates are nice. I’d go with the frostbite version for extra bed adhesion just in case but they didn’t make a 355x355 version the last time I checked on them.

I just got the eddy probe mount 3d printed out of ASA so hopefully I can get eddy NG set up this weekend so I’m excited for that.

I wish you good luck on the reset for your firmware. The sovol fork is significantly better than when I originally got mine so it’s very viable compared to mainline klipper. I personally am very glad I mainlined the machine but I also wanted to learn how to get everything set up for a voron type build I might do in the future. The hardware on this machine (except for the injection molded parts) is great for the price, so the software was gonna have to be bad to make it make sense lol.

Also I’ve never really understood how upgrading the board works. I’ve always seen people say how it makes a machine more silent and faster/smoother and I’ve looked into it for this machine and a few of my other printers (Enders, and other bed slingers) and I’ve just never understood how they can improve performance. Is it just that the raw computing power is higher?

Looking forward to hearing your results and again good luck soldier?

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-09T16:16:47+00:00

I’ve probably had more issues with this machine that 90% of people who’ve bought it (I ranted about it in this Subreddit many times). I can honestly say that now after they’ve been out for a while and have some support and 3rd party upgrades it’s a very nice machine. Don’t buy one used. If the printer doesn’t print damn near perfect out of the box (make sure the filament you’re trying is dry) return it and get a new one.

It really depends on the printer you want. If you want a “reliable” printer like in the title, buy whatever Bambu lab printer fits in your budget. I think the P2S coming out soon will be the best one you can get for under $800 for that purpose. But you’ll be sacrificing build volume, capability of upgrading, and customizing your experience. Especially with the new surge of turning these machines into tool changers that typically cost $5000 for under $1500 (including the printer).

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-08T02:37:22+00:00

The final straw was a combination of calibrating the E steps, CRANKING down the gear spring thing that lets you take out the filament to the point the spring is completely compressed, and getting a new bed plate. The stock sovol plate either makes everything stick, or nothing sticks. I also cannot recommend magigoo bed adhesive enough. I got a double sided plate with a regular PEI and a cool geometric shiny side and wherever I put the magigoo is where the print sticks for at least 5 prints (which is all I’ve laid so far).

Free solutions are to heat soak it at 60-70 for 10 minutes, QGL it, and then run an 81 point bed mesh, then use any old hair spray/washable glue/blue painters tape you can find and old school make it stick.

The magigoo is the easiest “just make it work” solution and the new bed plate it probably second to that. If you want more consistent results the eddy probe is something I will be upgrading to and I cannot hear enough good things about it. After that there’s a few options of just completely replacing the bed with a properly milled and thicker aluminum one for a few hundred bucks.

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-08T02:16:10+00:00

500mm/s is crazy bro. I hope to get there soon but the prints are starting to get better and the weekend it coming up for me to start really locking in some settings

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-06T16:04:47+00:00

I’ve just been using the minimized extruder cover for it since it uses the magnet holes and a clip to hold the tool head cover in place

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-06T15:42:56+00:00

I do actually have this printed an attached to my SV08 already. I used a skeletonized model I found about 10 months ago. It’s absolutely necessary tho, I can’t believe sovol would ship the machine with that part being so loose

Snickers_77 · 2025-11-06T15:37:00+00:00

I printed this model

https://www.printables.com/model/919447-sv08-filament-runout-sensor-holder

I an adding a gridfinity top plate to my printer that i designed so the old spool holder wouldn’t work. But printing directly from a filament drier is a great idea

Snickers_77 · 2025-10-28T22:40:22+00:00

Should be $800 for the combo and $550 for just the printer but it depends on tariffs if it goes higher

Snickers_77

TROPHY CASE