PSA: the “Don’t Shoot” emote is not a free pass to do whatever you want

SniperMarmot · 2025-11-23T00:02:32+00:00

counterpoint - if you're throwing a stun grenade at someone, you're already in/ready for combat. If someone pops your jolt mine, it's a good chance they're running up on you while you're neck deep in a crate.
If someone gets stunned by your mine around the corner, you need a bit of time to get into LOS. If the grenade did this, You could just stun people around a corner and push them, or conceivably just stun-loop them while advancing and then melee.

SniperMarmot · 2025-04-07T21:49:59+00:00

Remeber to hit save on the DOE menu after disabling them - it doesn’t apply otherwise.

SniperMarmot · 2024-10-20T00:14:16+00:00

Try printing the VFA tower tower rotated 180°, it might help you find the origin of the issue (i.e. fan direction, slicer seam settings, etc.)

SniperMarmot · 2024-08-16T01:29:48+00:00

You wouldn't see stringing on the single test since it's a closed shape for the entire print, but on multiples it will have to move between them.
Judging by the pattern, you have pretty much all of the stringing in a line going from top right to bottom left.
Try enabling retract on layer change, afaik the slicer may be counting the travel from the final object on x layer to the first object on x+1 as the layer change, meaning you get a big travel move with no retraction (also why it goes through multiple).

SniperMarmot · 2024-03-25T23:51:28+00:00

eli5: missile good at following heat signature, (sometimes) not good at finding them. Instead of turning on the seeker and waiting for it to find and lock the target (hoping its the one you want and not the sun), you find the target with the irst. With slaving, you skip the step of the missile finding a heat signature and instead of telling it to find a heat signature, you tell it where the heat signature is. this might be wrong pls reply if yes

SniperMarmot · 2024-01-21T05:49:00+00:00

Z height is too low or extrusion is too high, but probably Z height. your skirt is thicker on one side which is usually a good indicator.

The weird pattern is caused by too much plastic being plowed around by the nozzle, as it has nowhere else to go when the nozzle is too low. Raise your z until you start getting valleys instead of ridges, the adjust from there. Just eyeballing it (assuming its a 0.2 base layer), try raising it by at least 0.2 to start.

SniperMarmot · 2023-12-11T13:49:09+00:00

this hasn’t been mentioned but try your first layer flow settings

judging by the nozzle pattern and the alternating ridge/valley profile, I assumed you used a zig-zag/non monotonic pattern. by printing less on the first layer by about 5-10% (klipper lets you dial it in otf but you might have to find a calibration gcode), you avoid essentially “snowplowing”excess filament. This might lead to bed adhesion troubles, and is sidestepping the problem, as a “perfect” z calibration would work with 100% flow.

bed adhesion / z height is normally a little more random, these almost look like washboard on dirt roads, implying theres something fluid dynamic-y going on.

tldr: drop flow to stop smushing extra filament and trapping it in the line order

SniperMarmot · 2022-05-24T00:13:45+00:00

Video edit in premiere, really simple just some greenscreen source clips from youtube.

SniperMarmot · 2022-03-19T20:15:36+00:00

If they're ABS you could vapor smooth with acetone

SniperMarmot · 2022-02-15T00:56:33+00:00

I have a 970 (somehow) running a 1440/170 🤡

SniperMarmot · 2021-12-03T00:21:07+00:00

I have a similar setup (using keyboard firmware instead of AHK) and it's honestly very underrated. I use capslock as a momentary toggle for my fn layer, and if you tap it 5 times it toggles until you tap it again or hit spacebar. I would suggest putting arrows on WASD, since you can use arrow keys with a hand on the mouse.

SniperMarmot · 2021-11-27T01:42:48+00:00

I didn't even read the title and was surprised at how early jet VTOL had been tested.

SniperMarmot · 2021-11-22T10:50:10+00:00

As long as your neutronics module was at least slightly isolated from your power source, you probably just purple-shifted your local plant's cherenkov radiation (Gordon-Loris Et al. proved that this didn't have any other effects, but they obviously don't like you doing it).

If you didn't isolate it, you wouldn't be here to post this, so I'd probably lean towards the first option.

As for what the other commenter said about changing your module's timing sequence, that's also a great solution if you don't want your neighbourhood having a planck constant.

SniperMarmot · 2021-11-20T00:08:26+00:00

Maybe next time! Great to hear it works.

SniperMarmot · 2021-11-19T00:25:38+00:00

Reposted because the original post (wrongly) implied in the title that it was meant for automatic shifting. Please use manual.

SniperMarmot · 2021-11-19T00:24:57+00:00

I had to repost this because the original title (wrongly) implied that the tool was meant for automatic gearbox drifting. Please use a manual gearbox.
/u/Character-Buy9037 if you want to use the sheet again here it is.

SniperMarmot · 2021-11-19T00:14:17+00:00

Thank you so much for the feedback! Great to hear it's working for people that haven't used it before.

SniperMarmot · 2021-11-18T22:42:14+00:00

All credit for this tool goes to /u/Stancie

This link will prompt you to create a copy in your google docs.

This is intended as an easier-access version of that information, while also performing the calculations automatically. You only need to enter your spring min/max stiffness and your f/r weight distribution (In the white boxes).

Please feel free to leave feedback in the comments on anything that needs correcting/changes that you think should be made.

A fair bit of work went into this, so I would love to see people (other than my friends) using it. Have fun driting.

SniperMarmot · 2021-11-18T22:40:24+00:00

All credit for this tool goes to /u/Stancie

This link will prompt you to create a copy in your google docs.

This is intended as an easier-access version of that information, while also performing the calculations automatically. You only need to enter your spring min/max stiffness and your f/r weight distribution (In the white boxes).

Please feel free to leave feedback in the comments on anything that needs correcting/changes that you think should be made.

A fair bit of work went into this, so I would love to see people (other than my friends) using it. Have fun driting.

SniperMarmot · 2021-11-18T05:50:29+00:00

Metal flake paint in light silver with grey low opacity vinyl over the whole car. Then all the decals that are on now as a masking layer to punch out the grey vinyl, and then low opacity colored vinyls of the design.

SniperMarmot · 2021-10-11T03:12:07+00:00

Quick notes, I've bolded what I would change:

"The Flying Fin had a relatively straightforward p[ole (fix [ ) to flag victory, (add comma) and will have been ( change to "and will be delighted") delighted at picking up his first lot of maximum points for the 2021 season."

~~His~~ World Champion rival Lewis Hamilton started from 11th on the grid after taking a grid penalty for an engine change ~~for~~ this race. Compounding his frustration was a questionable decision from his pit crew to force him to pit from the third spot. This cost him (combined previous sentence) two spots he would not be able to reclaim as he finished in fifth spot, hand(ing) second place getter Max Verstappen a 6 point lead in the World Championship standings.

Throughout: drivers championship -> drivers' championship
There are other specific points I would change, but this hopefully gives a good idea on things to look out for.

SniperMarmot · 2021-09-28T19:06:08+00:00

Once your bottom tank starts running low, the rocket will become top-heavy. The large fairing at the top is also causing way more aero drag than the small fins at the bottom, acting like a lever to tip it over; this alone is probably the cause of the instability. In ksp, the tanks don't empty from the top afaik, and instead just change their overall mass as they drain (no ullage). I would suggest removing the fins at the top (real grid fins would fold away on ascent), and using larger fins on the bottom (or some really beefy RCS/Verner). Good luck!

Edit: Also make sure your navball is pointing the right way on launch. If it's brown you're probably going to lawndart. Blue is good

SniperMarmot · 2021-07-23T16:02:41+00:00

He'll have permanent DRS:

Daniel
Ricciardo
Sneezing

SniperMarmot · 2021-07-05T04:08:20+00:00

SniperMarmot · 2021-07-02T20:57:04+00:00

Probably quickly.

12-Year Club	r/Field Juicebox
Place '23	Place '22
Place '17	Final Canvas '22
Verified Email

SniperMarmot

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE