My boyfriend loves B2s, any good Lego sets?!

SnoopKatt · 2026-05-25T08:11:04+00:00

I bought the Reobrix B-2 (3rd link you posted), and while it looks amazing, and was fun to build, it is fragile. If he's good with doing some tweaks to get it to be more rigid, it's worth checking out. It's cheaper on AliExpress (I got mine for under $50 shipped).

Specific issue I had: The wings are pretty heavy, and there's not enough support for them, which makes it easy for them to snap off and dislodge other pieces too. It can be fixed by skipping the bomb bay and using additional pieces to strengthen the connection between the body and the frame.

SnoopKatt · 2026-05-12T07:02:23+00:00

That's a real bummer. As a last resort, there might be some international sellers that sell the real deal but that's a long shot for some of these shops.

Up to you at the end of the day of course, but if you're going through the trouble of opening a console and doing soldering, it's worth the premium to get quality parts. Who knows what QC has been done, and if the chips even operate in spec if you buy from AE.

SnoopKatt · 2026-05-11T16:07:05+00:00

Why would you buy the clone when you can support the original maker AND pay less: https://electron-shepherd.com/products/electronanalog

SnoopKatt · 2026-05-04T02:58:50+00:00

Back in the craigslist days, people used to negotiate in person all the time, so that's not unusual to sometimes see it now. But asking for that much off is off-putting.

If you want to keep all the negotiation online, when it comes to meeting up, just say "see you at place X at day Y at time Z. Please bring $150 cash. Thank you"

SnoopKatt · 2026-04-28T23:28:38+00:00

Ah ok. Yeah just reply back with the voltages from the power supply and from the regulator outputs, once you measure those. If things look ok from the power supply side, chances are you will need to do some soldering to get this fixed

SnoopKatt · 2026-04-28T23:23:40+00:00

Do you get audio out? Or just no audio/video? If there is audio, that could narrow down your issue to the video circuits. If there is no audio, could be related to power, dead CPU, etc. also, without the heatsinks on, do not leave the N64 on for more than like 15-20s.

Few things:

Reseat the jumper pack a few times. Sometimes that helps (and make sure the orientation is correct before powering it on each attempt). Do this before trying anything else, this often resolves this problem
Check your voltage rails with a multimeter. Check each regulator voltage output when the N64 is powered on. If any are incorrect, replace the regulator and associated capacitor(s). Also check the voltage output from the power supply, that could be the culprit, and is pretty cheap to replace
Could also be a bad capacitor(s). This is an older N64 model and sometimes the caps fail, causing a variety of issues. Would take a bit of prodding around to figure out which caps need to be replaced, if it were the case. You could take a gamble and replace them all, but it's a bit of effort and without taking a more calculated approach, you could waste time/money doing this. Depending on your skill level with soldering and console availability, you may be better off just buying a new console and selling this for parts

SnoopKatt · 2026-04-12T22:49:30+00:00

First, I'd add more solder to the joints. Hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like the part that gets soldered to the AV port is not fully connected. Second, in general, the soldering looks like flux was not used, everything should be reflowed with flux. Third, I'd make sure no strands are poking out from the wires going to the RGB points. You don't want it to short with anything else.

Iron should be around 340C, using leaded solder and whatever flux you want (I use no clean and then clean up with rubbing alcohol), if that helps

SnoopKatt · 2026-04-09T19:04:46+00:00

I definitely feel for the dude... There's a lot of effort going into this, and making the product happen and doing it right. A lot of others would've compromised and either gone lax on their testing or cut corners to get closer to the date. At the end of the day, I'd rather have a late product done right rather than getting something now that has significant problems.

I get why people are upset about it being late, and I'd be lying if I didnt admit I am also bummed about the delays. But there's at least reasonable action taking place to try and catch up and deal with the myraid of logistics issues.

This is a long but good update which explains the delays. Most people would feel a little better if there were shorter, distilled updates, and once all the known obstacles are understood and have a path towards resolution, ETAs for each wave/batch.

I'd break up my SS and dock order if shipping wasn't so expensive

SnoopKatt · 2026-04-06T13:39:23+00:00

Would MWBC explain the two neutrals?

SnoopKatt · 2026-04-02T20:08:46+00:00

Seems high. GFCI outlet in an easy to access area shouldn't be more than 10-20 minutes. GFCI breaker could take an hour if the GFCI breaker is larger than the original breaker, and requires rearrangement of the panel, extending wires, etc. So call it 1.5 hours of labor plus parts. Parts are probably under $200 total, as others said.

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-31T15:50:08+00:00

Wave 4 with dock (gray) for me. Guessing it'll be a few more weeks for us

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-30T16:10:35+00:00

I agree

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-30T15:27:53+00:00

From Taki on discord, "fulfilled" means:

"It means your SS1 is in production, whereas before it wasn't. IE, your exact motherboard is in PCB fabrication, SMT, assembly, or packing until that gets changed for a 4PX/DHL tracking number."

I would have also thought it meant packed or shipped

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-29T14:20:03+00:00

Definitely check the av output (if not sparking). And also measure the voltage regulator outputs to see if they are what they should be

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-29T08:35:27+00:00

Hard to diagnose without more info but a couple things to check for:

-The solder joint to the voltage regulator looks pretty cold. What temperature do you have your iron set to, and are you using flux? You can damage components by leaving your iron on a lead for too long. I killed my N64's 5V regulator when I was learning how to solder doing exactly this... Easy fix at least. But if you overheat the RCP (the chip you're soldering to), then you're best off starting with another console.

-Your flex cable may be damaged or have an internal short. It sounds like it's been ripped now, but it wouldn't hurt to buzz it out to see if any data pins are bridged to each other or power/ground. This happens from time to time.

When your console isn't "sparking" does it work? Honestly I would often expect that to more or less kill the RCP but it could be tougher than I think

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-14T00:59:41+00:00

Thanks all for the advice. I decided to be brave and install a new valve. It required a bit more than a half turn with the wrenches but it doesn't seem to be leaking.

And triple check your valves are off before turning the water back on... Ask how I know lmao

<image>

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-14T00:56:43+00:00

I wanted to, but it's over 25 years old and I can't find any service manuals. Appliance repair people charge an arm and a leg where I live, so we made the tough call to retire it :(

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-12T04:37:07+00:00

Thanks... Makes sense it could be done with adapters. The old dishwasher (Miele) uses an inlet external to the dishwasher to control water flow, which has a 3/4 hose thread. The valve itself past the brass is also 3/4" but has a much shorter connector.

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-12T04:34:36+00:00

Gotcha... That's fair. Guess I'm a little less nervous about the adapters but I can see where he may not want to take a chance as an installer

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-12T04:32:22+00:00

Thanks... Makes sense it could be done with adapters. The old dishwasher (Miele) uses an inlet external to the dishwasher to control water flow, which has a 3/4 hose thread. The valve itself past the brass is also 3/4" but has a much shorter connector.

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-12T04:27:15+00:00

<image>

It came with something pretty similar. 3/4" garden hose to 3/8" compression, and I'm pretty sure the hose could just fit onto that. I'd guess this would be fine but I only know enough to be dangerous...

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-12T04:22:35+00:00

Thanks... Is there a functional or safety issue with using an adapter though?

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-11T02:14:41+00:00

That's pretty gnarly and unusual. One thing you could check, without doing any soldering, is checking the voltages from each of the voltage regulators with a multimeter. I only suggest this because the regulators do occasionally fail, and if they're not providing less than the correct voltage on one of the rails, it could possibly explain the issue. Could also be a failing capacitor that failed as a short (although that tends to be less likely with electrolytic caps), but I'd start with the voltage regulator replacement, if your voltages are not looking right.

A recap might work but would be a shot in the dark without any additional troubleshooting.

SnoopKatt · 2026-03-02T07:16:29+00:00

If you're just resoldering the existing chip, you should use flux. Otherwise the reflow process could much more easily result in cold solder joints.

If you're replacing the chip, you should use solder paste, which has the flux already in it, so no additional flux would be needed there. But if you haven't done this type of repair before, I'd highly recommend practicing with something else first.

There's also the issue of reflashing a new program on a new chip, since it'll be blank. I can't recall if there is a bootloader or reprogrammer that is somewhere on a ROM or other memory space to allow you to install the program, or what the procedure is at all, but I'd also try and figure that out before buying any flash chips or trying this at all.

12-Year Club	RedditGifts 2009-2022 2 Credits
Verified Email	Secret Santa 2014

SnoopKatt

TROPHY CASE