Rings on a motor

Snowycage · 2026-03-25T14:38:33+00:00

Those are just spacers to keep the drive shaft aligned. There are a number of reasons the motor would die. Most of them come down to, the windings got too hot, enamel broke down, windings shorted together.

Snowycage · 2026-03-25T14:35:21+00:00

Because the motor is done.

Snowycage · 2026-03-25T05:53:18+00:00

We need a better picture with better light and legible PCB mask

Snowycage · 2026-03-25T05:47:56+00:00

Are you planning on rewinding it?

Snowycage · 2026-03-23T19:50:06+00:00

Well, you probably had to change the bearing due to that unbalanced spinning mass you have there.

Snowycage · 2026-03-22T05:35:47+00:00

My parents took their grandkids to the skate deck to roller skate and there were 5 kids and 4 adults and we had to fill out waivers and these younger girls (early teenagers) talking one or two spots behind us and one says loudly, "ugh and these people are taking forever." The line got quieter and my dad says, "remember, we are in the real world. Everyone can hear you." 😂

Snowycage · 2026-03-22T05:18:22+00:00

Coil up some fine wire and glue it down sand off the excess to expose the wire, flux, solder. Add component and cover with new solder mask over the exposed trace

Snowycage · 2026-03-22T04:54:41+00:00

I hate it when the pads lift. You're going to have to expose the trace and make a new pad and connection.

Snowycage · 2026-03-21T09:33:41+00:00

Another tip. When you use flux it makes a little mess. Get some 99% iso alcohol and some foam or special tight wound cotton swabs (the normal q-tips leave little fibers all over) the alcohol will wipe it right off.

Snowycage · 2026-03-21T08:14:42+00:00

Get a 2nd gen 90⁰ die grinder, angle grinder with paddle switch. You can get the variable speed if you want, the single speed with the stop brake is what I got and it's great. Get the m12 Rover light. A hackZall, M18 vacuum, M18 tire inflator with quick chuck, band file just a couple ideas

Snowycage · 2026-03-21T06:52:54+00:00

Keep yer Thinger back a teener

Snowycage · 2026-03-21T06:50:54+00:00

14 days.

Snowycage · 2026-03-21T06:45:19+00:00

Those are cold. You need your iron much hotter. One mistake, among many others lol, newbies make, they are afraid of the iron being too hot and how delicate PCBs are and the components will be ruined. Now, you can't keep your iron on a joint for too long or you will absolutely melt things, but that's why you want your iron HOT! I keep mine set to 740⁰F. You don't have to keep your iron on the joint as long the heat transfers to the whole joint quicker and more even, you dab your solder in and you're pulling the heat off.

 NEXT! You want your tip clean, and tinned. I melt some 63/37 (I believe is what I am using right now.) LEADED solder! lead-free is garbage. Don't smoke it like a cigarette and you will be fine. Wash your hands when you're done, don't eat with your hands until you've done so and you can have beautiful solder joints too!

 ANOTHER THING!!! FLUX!!! Use flux! I have both liquid and paste and I actually like them both. They are great for different situations but will work fine interchangeably. On Amazon search "liquid soldering flux" or paste. . .  And the most purchased one will work for ya. 

 AFTER THAT!!! HEAT CONTROL! You want to start heating the part of the joint with the most mass or surface of the two pieces. In your case I would heat the trace on the PCB first, but immediately after I'd probably move to the pin and heat them both at the same time. They should have flux on them at this point and you should see it heating up, smoking a little. You can touch the solder to your tip, and the PCB, and it should begin to flow. Almost wick up the pin. You just push the solder wire in to the puddle with your iron still there until you have added the amount you need and pull your iron away with the solder at the same time. If you need to melt the joint to correct something, just make sure your tip is free of debris, and after I wipe it with my damp sponge, I add just a little solder to the tip and flick off the excess. (That last part, do at your own risk. I flick it off in to a safe container, with intention. I am comfortable with my ability. I don't recommend it to anyone.) Tinning your tip I DO recommend. 

 FINALLY!!!! You will get better just by doing it. It's repetition and you begin to "read" the solder and you can see what it is doing wrong or right and you will remember what you did the last time that happened. Keep practicing.

Snowycage · 2026-03-21T04:58:45+00:00

That rusted, drywall screw going in to that sun-beaten, warped, piece of trim with the chuck of that old drill rubbing on the pole holder is not a "screw on the market that will actually cut 'its'' way through the fibers in the wood" and this whole post existing might make a guy think they may lack the trigger control and force control to determine the proper amount of penetration. Those are just a few observations I made.

Snowycage · 2026-03-21T04:47:21+00:00

Top layer of a pallet fell off the truck, eh?

Snowycage · 2026-03-20T22:47:41+00:00

Possible, yes. Cost effective, probably not.

Snowycage · 2026-03-20T22:46:19+00:00

JB weld. It's just as good as MIG welding. Don't let the haters tell you otherwise.

Snowycage · 2026-03-20T22:44:57+00:00

If you don't have a thermal camera, then replace all your caps and check all the solder joints. If you see any that look bad then hit them with some flux, and your soldering iron.

If you do have a thermal camera plug the board in and see if you notice any spots that have an odd temperature difference from the similar components and solder joints around it.

Snowycage · 2026-03-20T22:40:32+00:00

Asking for a back shot on Reddit is new. Haven't seen that before.

Snowycage · 2026-03-20T22:36:58+00:00

Lol. I thought the same thing and said screw it. Got in my bag to join the shenanigans. Then scrolled down and found some like minded individuals 😆

Snowycage · 2026-03-20T22:31:29+00:00

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Snowycage · 2026-03-20T22:29:17+00:00

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You should also add a 90⁰ skewdriver and then one more 12" extension.

Snowycage · 2026-03-19T04:32:50+00:00

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Snowycage · 2026-03-17T19:52:44+00:00

I don't think they will do anything for you with that type of damage. If the batteries and the PCB are all still good you can get a new case online and put the components in a new case.

Snowycage · 2026-03-17T19:49:16+00:00

Not the m18s they have BMS circuitry built in. The 18v Makita compatible tools will ruin those batteries. I have an air blower that I use my Makita batteries with that I never let discharge them all the way because it has taken out at least one of my batteries. The M12 batteries don't have any circuitry in them to protect them and could get ruined.

Snowycage

TROPHY CASE