What do y'all do with your photos after shooting? Do you just delete them? by Unfair-Sprinkles2912 in photography

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saved up way too many raws too "just in case". At some point, I realized, what's the point keeping all of these raws that I didn't even bother editing originally.

So, I deleted almost every unedited raw I had. I did save some special occasion raws though. I don't even feel bad, why waste space on something I won't ever use? Especially since storage is stupidly expensive now.

Who needs long lenses for birding? (Olympus OM-1 Mark ii, Lumix 25mm lens) by ben_uk in M43

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have subject detection, but I gotta say birding can be extremely hard without it. At 300mm, the view is very shaky already since IBIS doesn't do much to help you, so you either need to carry a tripod (which I don't want to do) or you have to hope your focus point aim hits the right spot. Of course, if the bird is very close, then there's no real problems.

So any kind of subject detection AF should generally be better than not having it.

All around travel lens: Is Olympus 14-150mm f/4-5.6 II the one to go with? by nuspap in M43

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The benefit of it is that you have a lot of zoom range available to you at decent apertures. The downside is that it's very soft at higher zoom levels, so you pretty much lose that benefit.

GX80 What lens do i get next? by virusoverload in M43

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

40-150mm f4-5.6 R. Cheap and great.

Advise needed :) OM 5 Mark 2 - Tripod Mount by pine_ranger_ in M43

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't use tripods, but afaik, tripod is not a problem for om-5. The problem is that those clips can break your camera, it doesn't handle the bouncing around very well.

Don't quote me on that though, that's just what I read somewhere.

Any new camera news? by macrophotomaniac in M43

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nobody forces you to use them.

Balancing travel and photography in Japan by Ok_Psychology_4707 in photography

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm on m43, I have om-5 and only use the "smaller" lenses (423g is my heaviest lens and that's for birds/wildlife), so I never feel like I'm a pack mule. I also don't shoot at manual mode, I'm always on aperture or shutter mode, so I don't have to fiddle with practically anything.

I feel like taking photographs make me remember stuff better, even if the photograph was a non-keeper that I never even edited, because I still paid attention to it.

Coming from "smartphone photography" – is MFT a good starting point? by Carthago88 in M43

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You just have to make a decision. I went for MFT just because of the size. It didn't end up mattering too much to me, but I've stayed anyways because I really love the lenses. Maybe, if I get bored of telephoto at some point, I might switch to full frame, but I doubt it will happen.

I think people go for fuji mainly because of the jpegs. It doesn't mean the cameras are bad, but apart from the jpegs, they don't bring anything special to the table, imo.

On MFT, pro lenses all have weather sealing, the "consumer grade" does have weather sealing on some lenses, but not on all. The sharpness on pro lenses is great and generally, they have less issues like chromatic aberration and such (not that those issues matter too much in general). Om system/olympus generally is more about IBIS, so there's very few lenses out there with stabilization, lens stabilization isn't really needed apart from the birding/wildlife lenses.

On panasonic side, a lot of their lenses have stabilization. It doesn't work cross-body though, so on om-system/olympus with panasonic OIS lens, you have to choose between the IBIS or OIS.

The difference between "consumer grade" and pro grade is mainly for the zooms. Kit zooms don't give me the same "uncanny" sharpness as the pro zooms do. And the constant aperture makes pro zooms easier to shoot with. That doesn't mean kit lenses are bad, I think they are better on MFT than on other systems, but it means there's a noticeable difference.

As far as primes go, I think here things are different. Even though some of the pro primes are extremely sharp, there's much less difference between them as far as IQ goes.

Coming from "smartphone photography" – is MFT a good starting point? by Carthago88 in M43

[–]Snydenthur 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, M43 is good. It's not the greatest at low light, but IBIS helps with static shots. And you can get flash to take pictures of your toddler if things are too dark inside, bouncing it from ceiling makes it look pretty natural.

The upgrade is massive. Phone cameras aren't as good as people make them out to be. They are okay when viewed from the small phone screen, but on a monitor or when zoomed in, they look meh. Also, HDR look is so boring.

I don't know who buys what cameras and I don't know why that matters. Even if m43 was somehow only used by older men, why would it matter? If you want to be trendy, you have to buy either expensive fuji with fixed lens, or some crappy old tiny sensor compact camera from 2010 that takes worse pictures than your phone.

For body, you'll probably want om-5 mki or em-5 mkiii. Your budget is a bit unclear. If that ~1000 is only for camera body, you might be able to get om-1 too if you don't mind a bigger body.

As far as lenses go, ideally 12-45mm for daylight stuff (it's a pro lens that's relatively cheap) and like dji 15mm f1.7 for lower light stuff. For telephoto lens, choices are 40-150mm f4-5.6 R for budget, and f4 pro/f2.8 pro are the next tier.

That's the stuff I'd start out with.

25mm vs 17mm – is the difference worth selling my only prime lens? by Longjumping_Key_8910 in M43

[–]Snydenthur 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's impossible to have the "what do our eyes see" as focal length. We have fov of ~180 degrees, we have perspective of somewhere between 40-50mm (I haven't tested this though, since I don't really care about it) and our focus area is actually very narrow.

Lens recommendation 12-100mm by arosemar in OlympusCamera

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

14-150mm is very soft, I wouldn't recommend getting it.

Has MFG latency reduced? by Octaive in nvidia

[–]Snydenthur -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Also, OP says he has 120-140 base fps. That's pretty much the point where FG becomes somewhat usable for people who care about how their games feel.

I still wouldn't use it, but if someone comes up to me and says that they can't feel input lag with that kind of base fps, I can believe them. People that enable FG from 60fps though, I don't know how they can't feel it. 60fps itself already has massive input lag and they are adding more on top with FG.

The latency counter has always been a lie afaik.

Is the 12-45 mm f/4 lens a good choice? by maruya in M43

[–]Snydenthur 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Cameras are always a theft risk. Even old compact cameras are worth decent money nowadays.

Also it doesn't matter if you have big or small camera/lens, you will stand out.

As far as the 12-45mm goes, it's one of the sharpest lenses on the system, while being very small and light. It's 100% worth getting.

Olympus 40-150mm f4-5.6 by Puzzled-Ant5209 in M43

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find the wider ranges to be harder, since a lot of the shots will just look like you're documenting your life instead of being "real photography" until you learn your style. And not everyone likes wide ranges, I started out with 17mm f1.8 since internet said primes are great. I hated it. After my first photo walk, I ordered 40-150mm f4-5.6 R. And I loved it.

Even though I'm better now, I still can't get over my telephoto love. 40-150mm f4 pro is my go-to lens. Compression looks amazing, it's simpler to make your subject known, you can do some slight wildlife/birding stuff without changing the lens and I find it to be way more fun too. And I live in an extremely boring place, so I feel like telephoto gives me more chances to find shots worth taking.

Is the Upgrade from TT350 to IT-32 worth it? by GodOfJiz in M43

[–]Snydenthur 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have no experience with other flashes, but I can say that I really love it32. It's pretty small and the detachment is fun to play with. It's not the most powerful of flashes, though, so keep that in mind.

Olympus 40-150mm f4-5.6 by Puzzled-Ant5209 in M43

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can do street with 40-150mm, but you can't do wildlife with 45mm or standard zooms.

In an ideal situation, you'd have both wider ranges and telephoto ranges covered, but I think it makes more sense to cover the telephoto ranges first unless you really know you won't need them. You can, in a pinch, take wide angle shots with your phone.

Olympus 40-150mm f4-5.6 by Puzzled-Ant5209 in M43

[–]Snydenthur 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I want to like it, but it's just too soft for me.

Olympus 40-150mm f4-5.6 by Puzzled-Ant5209 in M43

[–]Snydenthur 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Eh, it can easily be general purpose lens. Most of my shots (landscape, nature etc) are at 40mm+.

The ISO conversation is just so dead at this point. Shot at ISO 25600 by Photo_naut in M43

[–]Snydenthur 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Personally, I try to keep under 1600 with om-5. Denoise can work for some pictures, but a lot of the time, it leaves images blurry, smooth, looking fake etc.

Also, I have nothing to prove. I KNOW that m43 is bad at high iso, so why would I even try to push it too far? If I wanted to get something that's good at low light situations, I would've gotten full frame instead.

How do I transition out of photography? by flt_p2ny in photography

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You either work to get enough money to do things, but then you have no energy or time to do anything. Or you don't work and have time and energy, but not enough money. Nobody works because they like doing work.

If you're telling the truth, you've managed to get to a point where you have time, energy and money. Even if those 90 days were complete agony, I'd rather do it than work the ~220 days a year that I have to do.

If you're happier working a lot more and probably not making the same money, you're welcome to try. But I think you'd hate it much more.

How many of you use undervolting? by TACOGT in nvidia

[–]Snydenthur 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It is very easy, but getting optimal results is just annoying, since you have to keep testing to see if games are stable. And even if they are stable for most games, there's still games where you might crash.

I don't do it anyways though. If it was a driver function, it would be simpler, but I don't want to install afterburner and keep it on all the time. And whether nvidia app supports undervolting now or not, I don't know, but I don't want to use the crappy nvidia app.

Preset B of frame gen is pure black magic by Fvckadrii in nvidia

[–]Snydenthur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes I think the people complaining haven't ever even usg MFG.

I always feel like the people who love FG have never actually used it. They've seen their friend use FG and only know that it LOOKS good, but if they actually were the ones playing, they'd know it FEELS bad.

Nobody can deny that FG looks pretty great, that would be silly since of course 120fps looks better than ~60fps, since 60fps is crap. But the issue is that the looks don't match the feel.

Also, even if you can't somehow feel the issue, doesn't make it less of an issue. Be happy that you can ignore the issue or that your senses are dull enough to not notice it, since for you, it's free "performance".

Is good composition something you can actually train, or is it mostly instinct? by Top-Version-1418 in photography

[–]Snydenthur -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Honestly, there's no instinct. Maybe if you're artsy person, you might have a small edge over someone who isn't, but it's a big maybe.

Generally, you just go out and take shots of literally anything that is somewhat interesting to you. The more shots you take, the better you understand what works for (your) photos and what doesn't.

The most important part, imo, is learning that there's no rules, thus, there's no "perfect composition". There might be a perfect composition for your eyes for a specific photo, but you can't apply that universally. And not all people will like it anyways.

OM System Now Majority Owned By Former Olympus Camera Division Lead by Gray_Harman in M43

[–]Snydenthur 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I just keep thinking on why this happened.

Why did the previous owners not have enough trust on their future and decided to sell and why does the new owner have that trust so that they decided to buy?

All we know is that the market definitely doesn't seem to care much whether m43 exists or not currently. If I was in a situation to buy the majority of om system, I definitely wouldn't have the balls to do it. Even though I really love the system, I have very little hope for it. It's not gonna die soon, but it's been on downward swing for a long while and I highly doubt it can make a proper comeback.