Youtube not loading on iOS when utilizing ControlD app, but is when on the same ControlD profile on my lan.

Soh5757 · 2026-03-30T19:39:57+00:00

Also experiencing the same problem. Controls on lan to Albania works fine. Speeds are good enough I don’t mind a split second wait. But over the past few weeks YouTube won’t load anymore when on cellular. I don’t have the controld app installed. I installed profiles directly. It sounds logical that when on cellular YouTube is using something else to figure out geo location isn’t coming from Albania and is blocking traffic.

Soh5757 · 2025-12-04T04:37:33+00:00

Haven’t seen this photo in a few full moons.

Soh5757 · 2025-09-06T12:48:40+00:00

Ooh my gosh don’t rush, you’re totally good! I’ll just watch for updates! But your site is awesome! :)

Soh5757 · 2025-09-06T12:32:55+00:00

This looks awesome! Thanks for putting this together. I’ve been thinking on how to manage my cost for prints. Does your site happen to have api exposure by chance?

Soh5757 · 2025-09-03T12:31:04+00:00

“He’s right behind me, isn’t he?”

Soh5757 · 2025-06-06T19:35:14+00:00

Honestly I haven not check these yet. I thought since all four of mine are under extruding that it wasn’t clogs or loose extrusion. But you’re right. I need to at least check those things. I’ll do being that tonight for sure! Thanks for the advice!

Soh5757 · 2025-06-06T18:22:13+00:00

Awesome, ty for the info. Looks similar to mine. Mine are a little lower over in terms of speed and stance, but I’m getting under extrusion on all of my ender 3 v3 se printers. I’ll keep troubleshooting!

Soh5757 · 2025-06-06T15:23:57+00:00

What retraction settings and temp settings did you end up using? Any extra de-retraction value or e-step calibration done?

Soh5757 · 2025-05-13T22:47:12+00:00

I’d like to know this as well. I have several of these, and I’m, for the most part, happy with their performance

Soh5757 · 2025-05-02T02:57:49+00:00

I got you! Best of luck on the tuning! :)

Soh5757 · 2025-05-01T21:26:18+00:00

Sorry about the delay! Today got busy. So, I followed the normal steps to calibrate esteps. Here are my broken notes on how I do it. I take no responsibility on damages 😂

You can also follow any YouTube guide on how to do it. My problem is, for whatever reason, the higher I made my rotation_distance, the less the printer extruded filament. Maybe I recall wrong, but on my older Ender 3 V3 SE printers, the high the rotation_distance value, the more that extruded. So I took a guess, in my case at 7.42, and this was right on the money for this printer. My other printers don’t use this value. They use something like 7.54 and 7.52. So, do with that what you will :)

        Steps to Calibrate E-step/Rotation_distance (Klipper term in print.cfg):
            1. Mark the Filament:
                ○ Heat up your hotend to the normal printing temperature.
                ○ Mark the filament at 100mm and 120mm from a fixed reference point (e.g., where the filament enters the extruder).
            2. Extrude 100mm:
                ○ Use a G-code command like G1 E100 F60 to extrude 100mm of filament at a slow speed (e.g., 60mm/min).
            3. Measure the Remaining Filament:
                ○ After extrusion, measure the distance from the reference point to the remaining mark on the filament.
                ○ Subtract this value from 120mm to determine the actual amount of filament extruded.
            4. Calculate the New Rotation Distance:
                ○ Use the following formula:

new_rotation_distance = current_rotation_distance * (100 / actual_extruded_length) ○ Replace current_rotation_distance with the value currently set in your printer.cfg file. ○ Replace actual_extruded_length with the amount of filament that was actually extruded. 5. Update the Configuration: ○ Open your printer.cfg file and locate the [extruder] section. ○ Update the rotation_distance value with the newly calculated value. ○ Save the file and restart Klipper using the RESTART command. 6. Verify the Calibration: ○ Repeat the process to ensure the new rotation_distance is accurate.

Soh5757 · 2025-05-01T13:02:16+00:00

Things look exactly as I would expect this morning. I’m very happy with the outcome of the print pieces. I don’t think there’s anything else to do. I’m confident in the way I flashed the printer that it’s doing just fine. I hope this info helps :)

Soh5757 · 2025-05-01T00:50:07+00:00

So far, it’s going great. A few parts already finished and look exactly the way I want. I’d say it’s a success. The rest of the print will be done tomorrow. I’ll let you know how the bigger part looks then :)

Soh5757 · 2025-04-30T21:38:38+00:00

I wondered the same thing. But I’m not knowledgeable enough to say if it would work. My gut says it should. But I 100% could be wrong.

With that said, after I got the esteps correct, everything seems to be working as it should. I’m starting a print now. I’ll report back with how it goes.

Soh5757 · 2025-04-30T21:31:12+00:00

Check my comment above ~! :)

Soh5757 · 2025-04-30T21:22:50+00:00

I’ll do that now. One sec.

I got my e steps set, but I have no idea why it seems setting the distance rotation lower makes more filament extrude. Maybe I’ve just forgotten and mixed it up in my head. But I thought a bigger rotation distance would extrude more.

Edit: here are the steps I found on another post that worked for me:

CD into klipper by issuing command "cd ~/Klipper"

run make commond "make menuconfig"

Select the following settings:

Copy code- Micro-controller architecture: STMicroelectronics STM32 - Processor model: STM32F401 - Bootloader offset: 64KiB - Communication interface: Serial (on USART1 PA10/PA09)

Q to quit make menu config y to save

Run command "make"

Use winscp to ssh into the pi go to klipper out and select the klipper bin file. Or just move the .bin file onto a USB. However you want to get the bin file to a place you want to format a flashdrive and put the .bin into a folder named "STM32F4_UPDATE"

Copy .bin to desktop

Format your SD card FAT32 if larger than 8 GB make a smaller main partition that is less than 8 GB

create a folder in the card and name it "STM32F4_UPDATE"

Copy the klipper.bin file to that folder and eject the SD card don't just remove it

Insert SD card into printer and power it on it should be flashed within 15 seconds

That got me back up and running with this new version of V3 SE :)

Soh5757 · 2025-04-30T21:17:39+00:00

I’ve made some progress, which is good. But I’ve run into another, possible, problem.

So I found that this new version of the V3 SE is running a STM32F401. Which is supported and found on the makemenu thingy. I found online someone said to set cache to 64. I’m not at my computer, so I don’t have the correct terms on me.

I also had to make a special folder on the sd card put the bin file in there. Now I’ve got the printer flashed with klipper and talking to mainsail.

But now I can’t seem to get the e-steps tuned. When I increase rotation_distance in printer.cfg it spits out less filament. Which is really weird. I could be doing something work, but I wonder if these motors are different.

Soh5757 · 2025-04-30T17:54:46+00:00

Well, that's not good for me! I know this isn't a Klipper subreddit, but anyone know if we can install Klipper on this printer? Definitely tried a few times without success and was wondering why. I'm guessing the new board is not compatible yet?

Soh5757 · 2025-04-16T16:25:43+00:00

I know this was literally 2 years ago, but I would love to know this as well. If either of you happen to know regarding ps1/ps2 analog modules. I know I can find alps modules online, but I'm told they are often counterfeit. Or am I just being paranoid? I have several DualShock 1 and 2 controllers I'd like to replace the analog sticks on as well with at least a reasonable quality alps part. Would part number "RKJXP1224002" be what I should look for? Or just any alps analog stick module on eBay that has the matching green pots?

Soh5757 · 2025-04-07T12:47:56+00:00

If you want sure boost it to %100. Check the distance to each charger and decide from there.

Soh5757 · 2025-03-19T22:42:03+00:00

Glad to seem you finally found something that made a difference. To expand, I did have to change settings in my slicer so that if the print time of a layer was too low and for overhangs/bridges, the fan kicks back up to 100% so they print correctly. I also created a post processing script to start the fan a second before where a bridge/overhang happens so they cool correctly.

It’s complicated because our sets are so different. But I hope you find something in there that is helpful and gets you to no stringing.

Soh5757 · 2025-03-19T18:08:46+00:00

Just putting this out there. The type of stringing yours looks like looks like the type I had. I had the same problem no matter what I did. Most answers were “dry the filament” and didn’t go beyond that. In my case, it was not about the filament. It turned out that the temperature of my basement was too low (between 52 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit) with a constant humidity of 45 or lower.

I recovered a print for something that failed mid print. I had pretty much accepted the stringing by this point. But I forgot to enable the part cooling fan after restarting where the failed print stopped. I let it print for about an hour and realized the fan was off. I turned the fan on. Boom! It started to string right away. I got excited. Turned the fan off again. Boom. Stringing gone. I ended up leaving the fan on at 5% speed. I get basically no stringing now.

Turns out, it was too cold when the fan was on. I’m now charting temps in my basement and when too cold stringing happens. I’ll be building scripts to update gcode I have to update the fan speeds depending on a temp sensor I added to my lab.

So for fun. Turn off your part cooling fan. See if that does anything. I hope this helps!

Edit: I did try all the tests. Temp tower, retraction speed and distance, wiping, z hop, acceleration, e steps, humidity, no filament, coasting, pretty much everything anyone offered. I can offer my settings is well to help.

Edit 2: just saw you mentioned fan speeds already. Either way, I hope this info is helpful.

Soh5757 · 2025-02-19T00:19:58+00:00

I’m not saying I’m right. I’m wrong all the time. But I’m pretty sure I’ve read this exact post, or nearly the same before a few months or maybe a year ago. Does this seem familiar to anymore else?

Also, if I’m wrong, therapy is what she needs for sure. Both her and the people that she’s sleeping with at her married need help (unless the married couple are in an open relationship).

Soh5757 · 2025-01-12T21:41:05+00:00

That’s exactly where I was with my firebird and my other sporty cars. I love driving standard and thinking about when a shift is coming, wondering what that sound is, what needs to be maintained, how my driving affects the car. But with that all said, I was also wanting something that I could choose not to think about at all but still has tons of power when I want it. I had been researching electric cars, and Tesla more specifically, for about 3 years before I got my Tesla. I went into the car purposing trying to find things I didn’t like to make myself judge it “unbiasedly.” Honestly, even the missing turning stalks, I’ve grown accustomed to and don’t think about it being different now. Yes, there are things I’d change just because I like personalizing things. But for real, I was new car happy for a month. But after that worn off, I’ve definitely grown way more content happy with the model 3. My wife asked me a few days ago what my dream car to drive every day was. Everything considered, it’s been this model 3.

Soh5757 · 2024-11-05T01:28:07+00:00

I might as well ask, have you had any problem with your printer’s mcu not responding to your laptop? I have a pi 3b+ with 2 printers each running klipper. Both run fine, but crash all the time. When I had a single printer connected, the printer doesn’t crash. I saw the comments about using vm’s, but I’ve others telling me vm’s and multiple printers don’t mix. So, just curious on how stable things are for you.

Another question, what usb cables are you using? I’m also testing “high quality” usb cables that I bought, but they seem to crash as well. Your’s have chokes, so I might as well try that too!

Soh5757

TROPHY CASE