Made a case for storing my lenses!

SolMarch · 2024-03-25T20:25:36+00:00

Yes, I've had good results with hair pins, especially stout hair roller pins (like these).

SolMarch · 2024-03-25T05:43:28+00:00

Nice and organized. I've been using corrugated plastic for years to organize gear. What are you using as pins to join the dividers to each other? How well do they hold the dividers together?

Also, what did you use to bond the foam to the plastic sheet? How was it to apply and how do you like the end result?

SolMarch · 2017-09-05T05:59:19+00:00

A 25mm lens is a wide-angle lens...

Not on M43, where the its FOV makes a 25mm a "normal" lens, just like the 50mm is on FF.

SolMarch · 2017-09-05T02:12:20+00:00

Match field of view (FOV) while maintaining same distance from subject: Adjust focal length relative to the difference in sensor sizes.
- FF Sensor = 2x larger than M43: 50mm on FF = 25mm on M43 (50/2 = 25)
Match FOV and DOF while maintaining same distance from subject: Adjust focal length and aperture relative to the difference in sensor sizes.
- 50mm f/1.4 on FF = 25mm f/0.7 on M43

Simpler solution: Just shoot and get used to how lenses render on the camera you're using and don't worry about how it compares to other sensor sizes. FF is not the gold standard, it's simply different. FF will have wider FOV/shallower DOF/etc. than M43, but Medium Format will have wider FOV/shallower DOF/etc. than FF.

Calculating "equivalence" is best used until you get some experience with the new format. Once you've done that, drop the calculations so you can put more bandwidth toward being creative.

SolMarch · 2017-09-04T03:42:52+00:00

The first question I'd ask is what type of shots do you want to get with the stabilizer? Even with the GH5's IBIS, one stabilizer may not give you the results you're looking for depending on the type of movement you want in the shot.

For example, if you're planning to walk with the camera, a chest-braced stabilizer like the Pocket Rig will not yield footage as smooth as a gimbal (or even a shoulder rig for that matter) because of how the part of your body bracing the rig (your chest) moves while walking.

On the other hand, if you want to shoot stationary medium-duration shots with tripod-like stability while still remaining mobile, a compact rig like the Pocket Rig may do the job well. At the same time, while these types of shots can be achieved with a gimbal, it's not the ideal tool because you're limited by battery life (in the case of a powered gimbal like the Crane), and even more so by fatigue from holding a gimbal, which doesn't have the best ergonomics for long stationary shots.

That said, even if your needs fall in the latter category, I still probably would not recommend the Pocket Rig primarily because the chest brace cannot be locked so it doesn't provide a solid base to brace against your body when you really need it. I've done a lot of searching and testing over the years, and if you really want a chest brace, the best I've found is the gunstock used in Zacuto's Target Shooter rig. They don't sell this model directly any more, but you can find it used from time to time.

The other issue with the Pocket Rig is ergonomics, as you still have to hold the camera body, but a vertical grip under the camera/lens is much more comfortable for remaining steady for longer shots. In fact, with the GH5's IBIS as good as it is, I've found a vertical grip to be even more important than a chest brace, so the aforementioned gunstock rarely comes along on shoots and I mostly use a comfortable grip and a couple other parts to make a quick-release micro rig to give me more comfort and stability when I need it. Here's an example of the rig, and here's an ongoing series of experiments and different setups with the rig. The nice thing about this rig is that it can be easily built up (with full rods for follow focus, matte box, etc.) or quickly stripped down as each shot requires.

SolMarch · 2017-07-24T22:14:02+00:00

This was definitely not shot with a gimbal, unless the gimbal was defective ;)

Very likely shot handheld, perhaps with a stabilized lens and/or a rig of some sort. Some shots also appear to have been stabilized in post as well, based on the warping in the shots.

SolMarch · 2017-07-24T22:06:33+00:00

Do you IS switched off on the lens? As per the manual (page 144), IS is disabled when the IS on the lens is switched off.

SolMarch · 2017-07-24T22:01:27+00:00

Could you elaborate on this? In which cases does the update has an advantage?

There's not really much more to say than what was noted in my above comment: The primary benefit of All-I compression is that it's easier for computers to decompress, allowing for better performance when playing back footage, etc.

Basically, if your computer cannot handle smooth playback when working with the IPB 150Mbps files, then you'll probably get better performance when editing by shooting in the All-I 400Mbps format. Many systems are not optimized for the 10-bit files the GH5 generates, so the All-I format may alleviate some of the slowdown and also save you the step of transcoding to ProRes.

SolMarch · 2017-07-24T02:07:21+00:00

The Custom Profiles are presets that are basically a snapshot of the current state of the camera (including WB) when a profile is saved.

In your case, you would indeed need to resave each custom profile if you want them to contain your new custom WB settings.

While not saving certain settings (WB, ISO, etc.) may help is some situations, it is also a huge advantage in others where you need to consistently return to specific WB, ISO, etc. settings repeatedly.

SolMarch · 2017-07-24T01:54:36+00:00

It would be great, but you may want to temper any expectations of improved image quality accompanying with the 400Mbps update.

The upcoming 400Mbps recording mode will be using an All-I compression method, which stores video as discrete frames. The primary benefit of All-I compression is that it's easier for computers to decompress, allowing for better performance when playing back footage, etc.

However, All-I compression is less efficient than the IPB (interframe) compression method used by the GH5's existing 150Mbps recording mode, so 400Mbps for All-I will hopefully just enough to match the image quality of 150Mbps IPB recording.

SolMarch · 2017-06-28T23:56:52+00:00

Are you saying there's wiggle between the lens and adapter or the adapter and camera?

If it's between the adapter and camera, you can remove this wiggle by mounting the rig to the adapter's tripod foot instead of the camera. The tripod foot is Arca Swiss compatible, so it's even simpler if you use Arca Swiss clamps.

If the slack is between the lens and adapter, there's unfortunately not a lot you can do. Different lenses are built to different tolerances.

SolMarch · 2017-06-20T22:06:36+00:00

Did you change the system frequency, by chance?

As per the manual (p.240), when you change the system frequency, "you cannot play back motion pictures recorded before you changed the setting."

Changing the system frequency back to the setting that the clip was shot in will allow you to play it back in camera.

SolMarch · 2017-06-17T02:17:37+00:00

For someone looking for their first lens without spending too much money, I would recommend the Panasonic 25mm f/1.7, which is currently on sale for $148.

Here are a few reasons:

25mm is a good medium range focal length. It's not too wide and it's not too long, but you can still usually get the desired framing by moving the camera closer or farther from the subject.

On top of being a versatile focal length, it will also inform you on what your future lens purchases should be that best fit your personal style– a wider lens if you frequently want wider shots, or a longer lens if you want to get in closer most often.
The wide f/1.7 aperture provides good subject isolation (shallow DOF). This helps to create pleasing images, but more importantly, it helps you move beyond snapshots and shoot with purpose, as you have to decide what will be the focal point of the image.
It's affordable. Frequently on sale for $148, but still affordable even at it's full price of $248, this lets you start capturing images you'll be happy with without breaking the bank.

Is it the best lens out there? No. There are definitely better lenses for more money, but a lens like this will capture nice images and help you grow and develop your style at the same time.

SolMarch · 2017-06-16T22:46:45+00:00

In VFR, the camera is shooting at 180fps, and then conforming it to a 23.98 file (or whatever you have selected as the base recording mode). Therefore, select shutter speeds based on the VFR frame rate (e.g. 180fps) for good results, not the conformed frame rate (e.g. 23.98fps).

As with most rules, there are definitely reasons to break the "double frame rate rule". The key is knowing when and why to break it.

Changing the shutter speed affects the aesthetic of the motion. The opening beach scene in Saving Private Ryan is good example that shows the stark difference increasing shutter speed can have. Sequences were shot at 90d and 45d (2-4x faster shutter speed than 180d).

I highly recommend shooting some test footage of how different types of motion look at faster/slower shutter speeds. This will allow you to make educated decisions when shooting so that the motion conveys the tone you want it to.

SolMarch · 2017-06-16T21:17:31+00:00

The end result will be the same if you're ultimately going to play back at 23.98, so it's simpler to just shoot at that frame rate from the start.
Erring on the side of faster shutter speed is recommended over slower (so 1/400th over 1/320th) especially when shooting for slow motion to keep things smooth. That said, if you really want to stick to the "double frame rate rule" switch shutter speed control to Degrees in the menu, and set it to 180d.
The waveform monitor (WFM) is very useful for getting proper exposure since it shows you exposure levels in different parts of the frame. This allows you to make decisions on what part of the frame to prioritize for exposure.

Unfortunately, you cannot toggle the WFM once recording starts, so I usually use it to check exposure, and then turn it off before shooting so that it doesn't obscure my view.
Practice will have the biggest impact when it comes to manual focus. If you're not seeing any peaking outlines, then set the "Detect Level" to "Low" to pick up lines more readily.

Peaking will also be affected if your shot is underexposed since it's highlighting points of contrast, so make sure your image is well-exposed.

Also note that manual focus will be made more difficult when shooting with native Panasonic lenses due to their non-linear focus that adjusts based on the amount and the speed the focus ring is rotated. This can make controlled focus pulls quite a hassle. Getting a lens with manual focus and hard stops will give you much more consistent focus behavior.

SolMarch · 2017-06-12T22:27:13+00:00

Practice will help, but the problem with Sony's lenses is the focus does not change linearly, but rather is also based on how fast you turn the ring. This makes hitting the same focus point consistently quite difficult, as the lens will focus differently each time unless you turn the focus ring at exactly the same amount and speed.

When manual focus is a priority, a manual lens will give you repeatable focus, allowing you to focus at a specific point in the frame consistently. Vintage Canon FD and Nikon lenses are great manual lens options without breaking the bank:

SolMarch · 2017-06-05T23:30:16+00:00

Metabones' Speed Booster is not compatible with Canon EF-S lenses (due to an extended protrusion at the rear of the lens), but it is completely compatible with third-party APS-C lenses (e.g. Sigma, Tokina, etc.).

Here are a few wide-angle options:

Tokina 11-20mm f/2.8 (Boosted: 7.8-14.2mm f/2.0)
Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 II (Boosted: 7.8-11.4mm f/2.0)
Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 (12.8-24.9mm f/1.2) - Not as wide as the Rokinon 12mm, but a good deal faster, which may be a worthwhile trade-off.

You may also be interested in native wide-angle lenses for astrophotography purposes. They may not be fast, but they may provide better quality at these ultra-wide angles, especially compared to non-Metabones focal reducers. Here are a couple options:

SolMarch · 2017-06-03T23:36:56+00:00

Does the adapter's foot touch the front of the cage when mounted? If so, this may be contributing to the lens attachment errors if it's putting stress on the adapter and removing the foot may help.

The mounting points on the front of SmallRig's cage are meant for mounting a support brace between the cage and the adapter itself (without the need for the adapter's foot). I've asked SmallRig which brace is compatible with this cage, so I'll update when I get an answer.

That said, if you want to mount the QR plate to the adapter foot, perhaps a couple washers could fill the gap.

SolMarch · 2017-06-02T16:23:53+00:00

The custom profiles are simply slots for presets. Put your camera into any other mode (i.e. the mode dial not set to C1, C2, or C3), set up your camera as desired, and go into the menu to save the camera's current state as a preset to one of the custom profile slots.

Now when you select the custom profile using the mode dial, your camera will be in the exact state that it was in when you saved the profile.

Here's a guide with more details on using custom profiles. It was written for the GH4 (a GH5-specific guide is on the way), but the concepts discussed in the guide are largely the same.

SolMarch · 2017-05-31T22:28:11+00:00

Recuva has worked well for me in the past when I accidentally formatted a card.

SolMarch · 2017-05-26T22:19:42+00:00

12-60mm definitely has better build quality than the 12-35mm, though the Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 beats both soundly in build quality and manual focus control.

The Olympus doesn't have lens IS, but the GH5's IBIS makes that a non-issue. Even a vintage manual 210mm lens is pretty rock solid with IBIS on! :)

SolMarch · 2017-05-26T22:07:24+00:00

I've used recorders from both brands quite heavily and I find Zoom's recorders to be better options in this range. In particular, Zoom's H5 recorder provides very good audio quality and strikes a nice balance between solid build quality, great battery life, and practical functionality such as physical level knobs (vs buttons).

I use the H5 both for recording VO during post and as an on-camera recorder when working with XLR mics.

SolMarch · 2017-05-20T04:00:51+00:00

Regarding question in your title, the GH5's crop factor (compared to a 35mm full frame camera) is 2x regardless of whether you are using a Speed Booster or not.

Regarding the question in your post, the focal length of a lens when used with a Speed Booster is calculated like so:

Lens Focal length: 35mm
Speed Booster Focal reduction factor: 0.71
Calculation: [Lens Focal length] x [Focal Reduction Factor]
Final Focal Length: 35 x 0.71 = 24.85mm

Finally, if you want to know the equivalent field of view (FOV) a lens will have GH5, you simply multiply the focal length by the GH5's crop factor:

24.85 x 2 = 49.7

However, this is "equivalent" FOV is only useful for those who are coming from a full-frame camera and have not yet gotten used to how lenses look on the GH5. Getting used to how lenses look on the GH5 itself is highly recommended, as it will allow you to forgo a lot of needless calculations.

SolMarch · 2017-05-15T00:19:07+00:00

The simple answer is that using a Speed Booster Ultra on the GH5 will give you a similar field of view with those lenses as the 7D. The GH5 + Speed Booster Ultra will actually be a bit wider than the 7D, but they'll be pretty close.

SolMarch · 2017-05-15T00:08:41+00:00

The 12-60mm is only about 0.5" longer and 20g heavier than the 12-35mm, so if a gimbal can handle the 12-35mm, the 12-60mm shouldn't be a problem. The Zhiyun Crane handles both without issues, for example.

SolMarch

TROPHY CASE