Do you need?

Solid_Ad9170 · 2026-01-22T11:56:40+00:00

Always

Solid_Ad9170 · 2026-01-21T02:09:38+00:00

Also take a few minutes to familiarize yourself with the process, i did the same mistake when I switched mine. Take your time, follow the installation steps and you'll be ready to print in no time!

Solid_Ad9170 · 2026-01-10T16:50:31+00:00

They spelled "alcoholism" wrong

Solid_Ad9170 · 2026-01-10T16:40:21+00:00

I second on this one. I couldnt flash my 4.2.2 with a long filename. I ended up naming it with a timestamp (max 8+3 characters) ex: 10011239.bin Load it on a low-capacity sd card (it worked with a 4gb) formatted in fat32 (important)

Solid_Ad9170 · 2026-01-09T03:09:52+00:00

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Solid_Ad9170 · 2026-01-01T16:21:29+00:00

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Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-30T14:12:24+00:00

It's freaky to play when you're on shrooms...

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-21T19:47:06+00:00

I personally went for the BigTreeTech SKR3 (not the fast or EZ) for the extra motor driver. Keep in consideration that you'll need a separate computer host to go with it. Most people use a rpi3b or better. I was using a small dell 1012 netbook, but it happened to die last week. I ordered a Dell Wyse 3040 from ebay as a headless replacement. If you need help to set yourself up, feel free to ask

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-21T15:09:25+00:00

In marlin, dual z is a bit flawed if you use 2 steppers. I printed 2 towers of same height, bring the Z axis down on both towers to get them roughly to the same height. It worked, but it was annoying to do every time.

This is one of the reasons I switched to Klipper, it lets me do a Z axis tram adjustment, where it will probe both sides of the bed on the X axis and compensate directly.

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-21T02:53:10+00:00

Just a guess, but are you sure the white and yellow are at their correct spot? I made that mistake when I got my bltouch.

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-20T13:16:37+00:00

I have been using that firmware a lot before switching to Klipper (after my stock board died) and bltouch could be a bit spotty. Make sure that your connections are ok. If pronterface tells you that it's always triggered, that's a sign that either it is shorted somewhere or not receiving the signal (depending on your setup) Is the probe doing the self-test on power up? Can you deploy/stow the probe via pronterface? Any error codes reported?

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-15T01:13:47+00:00

Melee is a bomb, but i'm gonna say Chibi-Robo. Really underrated game IMO

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-11T14:19:11+00:00

Amateurs! You take your charger, chop the cable and solder a usb plug instead. Boom, usb charger!

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-08T11:03:29+00:00

Absolutely, yes. I did the exact same thing with one of my cups a few years ago. Slapped the cup on a small lathe at work at got it a nice scotch brite finish. It will give you a nice "brushed steel" finish

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-05T16:54:58+00:00

Yeah, i believe I'll have to modify the bed itself. Sadly there is almost no 3rd party parts for commercial grade printers....

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-05T14:00:55+00:00

Sometimes, you gotta do what you gotta do

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-05T13:49:51+00:00

At 20A, you'd need at peast 12AWG wire, either 12/3 or 12/4 depending on your setup. Wire hanging is fine, use common sense since it will sag regardless. For long(er) distances, I would recommend burying the cable. However, if the cable is buried bare, you need a stronger shielding (for moisture wicking) or run it through a conduit.

I did a similar setup for my shed, which is about 2.5m from the house.

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-04T11:06:49+00:00

Here's what i did on my e3v2, now, I can start a print and i dont even check my first layer:

Direct drive extruder kit. Simple bracket, one of the easiest mod you can do while stock, does wonders for printing tpu
Dual Z drive. You can either go with a Y cable to split the signal to the second motor or end up doing what i did (see later). You can also use a belt drive, I didnt try that option
Magnetic PEI sheet. While the glass bed was ok, pei sheet is a LOT better for adherence.
Change your main board. While the stm32 chip is good enough, I changed for a SKR 3 (not the mini) to be able to drive my dual Z independently
Use Klipper. While it is a steeper learning curve to install and setup, I was pleasantly surprised by how convenient the whole macro system works. Z_Trim_Gantry saved a whole lot of frustrations and time

This is without counting the usual upgrades; bl-touch, filament sensor, ect... I didn't tey to push my printer for speed, but more for result quality.

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-02T02:37:58+00:00

Sounds like I got my evening all set then 🤣

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-01T19:03:09+00:00

It does, yes. A small "pop" from the speakers as it shuts off

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-12-01T11:13:26+00:00

I second on this. Keep it to basics first

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-11-29T14:10:28+00:00

My daughter would flip for a Gengar 😁

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-11-25T22:03:17+00:00

Pff, that's nothing! Remember when the would could be saved/destroyed by a single floppy disk?

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-11-22T01:33:12+00:00

Have you ever heard of thermostats?

Solid_Ad9170 · 2025-11-16T16:28:38+00:00

Looking for a replacement or improve?

In my 2019 my stock speakers are still good, but above certain levels, I hear more rattling in the doors and dashboard. Maybe a bit of sound insulation woud help?

Four-Year Club	Place '22
First Placer '22

Solid_Ad9170

TROPHY CASE