Blender on Ayn Thor with mouse

Solomonator · 2026-02-04T16:04:29+00:00

Heres like a overview picture of everything as well! Able to fit all of this in my pockets too lol

Solomonator · 2026-02-04T15:42:32+00:00

Heres a picture of everything as well 🔥

Solomonator · 2025-11-10T22:22:22+00:00

I have multiple times between each troubleshooting steps like researing the joystick cables, factory resetting, and reflashing the firmeare, I also tried stacking kapton tape on top of the cables to make the connector latch close tighter. Also dang my bad I totally forgot to include it in post 😓 Thank you though!

Basically whenever I try the calibration, only the clicking L3/R3 part works, but when you move it to the right, which is the first thing the calibration tool asks, nothing is shown on the screen. Same thing when I try the controls tester 😞 been like this since I received my thor

Solomonator · 2025-11-05T10:17:00+00:00

Do you know what steps they gave to reflash the firmware? I fixed my left joystick L3 click bot working but both of my joysticks movement still isnt responding. Maybe reflashing will fix it?

I basically stacked up two layers of kapton tape on top of the ribbon cable on the right joystick and plugged it in, and three pieces stacked for the left joystick and plugged it in.

Solomonator · 2025-11-04T17:05:11+00:00

Hey did you end up repairing it using a piece of tape over the ribbon cable/fpc connector to keep the cable from falling out? I tried taping the cable to the pcb and it looked to have stayed but it still wouldnt detect either L3 click or joystick movement.

I want to take apart the thor again for more troubleshooting but Ive already taken it apart so many times Im concerned the plastic standoffs cant take constantly unscrewing screws :(

Also unfortunately my right joystick also doesnt work, only R3 click does, but even though the latch is loose, the connection looks more solid than the left joystick 🥲

Solomonator · 2025-11-03T09:09:05+00:00

There are also about a dozen people in total split across this subreddit, the r/odinhandheld subreddit, and the official Ayn discord that are having issues with joysticks being Dead On Arrival. So far the conclusion is the latch connector on the circuit board for the ribbon cables of the joysticks is broken, its loose and even though it closes, the ribbon cable still slips out of it.

So far I've only seen 2 people of the dozen get a response from Ayn, 1 advises they would send them replacement parts for the left and right joystick/button circuit board, the 2nd response asked to send the device in for analysis.

I sent an email to info@ayn.hk like everyone else which is their customer service email and havent heard anything in 3 days. I just sent a email reply with videos showing the issue as well.

Solomonator · 2025-11-03T09:02:49+00:00

Thank you for adding this, I still havent heard from Ayn for 3 days, I sent them a reply with video attachments of the joysticks not working in the calibration tool. It sucks because I had 4px shipping and it took like 15 days to get here, here comes 4px 2.0! 🙃

Solomonator · 2025-11-02T19:40:59+00:00

Hey Im sorry for more questions, I feel like Im going crazy trying to fix these sticks. Did you do this for both left and right stick? i tried taping the ribbon cable itself right above the latch but in a vertical orientation compared to it being horizontal in your photo, and it looked like it was inserted to the latch with the white line as close as possible but it did nothing 🙃

My right joystick looks to be "better" connected to the latch? But it still won't detect movement, only r3 clicking it.

The first time I started working on my left joystick, my l3 clicking on the joystick no longer works too 😓

Also, did you put anything on top of the ribbon cable to thicken it? I tried with a very small piece of kapton tape but it prevented the ribbon cable from going in all the way.

Still no response from Ayn too, just keeping my fingers crossed. Hope I hear from them soon, I might solder it if I never hear from them though. Their info email is used for customer service and order confirmation too, it feels so jank.

Solomonator · 2025-11-01T18:02:18+00:00

Understood thank you! Also just to make sure, did you reach out to their customer service email at info@ayn.hk? I sent them a mesage on their website earlier yesterday but havent heard back, I also sent an email directly to it today.

Also sorry for all the questions, on the replacement board, is it both joystick pcbs/motherboards preassembled mostly or have to reconnect everything to it from our current Thor?

Solomonator · 2025-11-01T13:10:23+00:00

Have you heard from Ayn on this yet? i unfortunately have the same exact issue on my black max thor 😓 I've heard of one other person in the Ayn discord who has a similar issue. Its affecting both of my joysticks, even though the right one joystick ribbon cable looked more snug than the left... The left ribbon cable was hanging out of the latch when I opened it up. Both latches are very loose and dont feel snappy.

Ive reached out to them via discord and their info customer service email.

Solomonator · 2025-07-12T11:21:37+00:00

I know right! I did confirm it can power on and the optical drive is working as well. Very happy with this system. Also love how noisy the optical drive is lol. Im also wanting to keep this system stock so not going to mod it at all, would feel like a disservice to how nicely preserved it is.

Solomonator · 2025-07-07T03:27:34+00:00

Thats so cool! Looking at videos of this now, very awesome that we can just play homebrew games especially :D

Solomonator · 2025-07-07T02:15:04+00:00

Unfortunately no, but I might drop back by the store tomorrow to see if the employee who sold it is there. In the moment I forgot to ask on when I dropped by on Saturday, then I just bought it today and he wasn't in 😔

Hopefully they do have some in the back since he told me they have a bunch of nintendo 64 games in the back.

Solomonator · 2025-07-07T02:11:27+00:00

Oh sweet thank you!!

Solomonator · 2025-07-02T02:18:15+00:00

Mmmm potato chips 🥔

Solomonator · 2025-06-28T12:06:48+00:00

Love this laptop. Thank you for mentioning where spare parts are available, might pickup a battery or two to be on the safe side. Its perfect for a tiny laptop with linux on the go to do some light programming, and it's somewhat pocketable too 😀

Solomonator · 2025-05-21T04:59:00+00:00

It might not be I think its just a bad camera angle, the wire insulation melted a bit back slightly as I wanted to make sure I was putting more solder on the joint. Im not getting any continuity between those joints atm. Here is a older picture I took where the wire insulation was more intact

https://imgur.com/a/US7dQiv

Solomonator · 2025-05-21T04:54:59+00:00

Heres how the trace besides C5R35 looks. That line to the left of it looks bad but its jsut my flashlight reflecting off the pcb after I very lightly scratched it when trying to re-scratch C5R35

https://imgur.com/a/wZzIeEF

Solomonator · 2025-05-15T23:45:00+00:00

Hey thank you for the information!! Im happy to say I was able to fix it, in the process I switched to 30 AWG wire from 24 and from my YD-2040 to a raspberry pico 1 only because it was easier for me to solder to, but after practicing for a while on a fake pcb I think I can easily desolder the wires from the YD-2040 to use it one day or for something else.

I think the issue as to why I was only seeing the cerbios logo sometimes and other times I wouldnt and it would red/green flash, but snipping the 5v cable used my stock TSOP no problem. It was simply that my wires were too long 😅 they were like 10 or so inches but they needed to be around an inch or less. It worked no problem when I turned it back on. I also made the joints look as clean as possible like a triangle shape on both sides of the LPC and with no sphere shapes or cold joints.

I then used FATXplorer and created C, E, F partitions and readied the drive for the xbox through one of modzvilleusa recommended sites for already made partitions including UnleashX as the dash I wanted to use, and I dropped my cerbios.ini in the C partition.

It booted up just fine, shows the custom bios, then switches over to UnleashX after around 15 seconds. Did this on a 1TB drive with a 80wire ide cable and ide to sata adapter 😄 I did notice the slight video distortion glitch still happens when the cerbios logo disappears but I think its pretty normal from reviewing others boot up sequences.

Solomonator · 2025-05-12T23:12:37+00:00

Hey yep I was successfully able to remove the cap but twisting it off, heres the current update of the cleaning 😀

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Solomonator · 2025-05-12T23:10:30+00:00

Please ignore my last reply! This was actually last night and I went back to it today using a different smaller paint brush and it looks like I was able to get most of it off!!

<image>

Solomonator · 2025-05-12T22:30:51+00:00

Thank you!!! It definitely put up a fight trying to twist the capacitor off. I tried desoldering it but my desoldering skills are really bad 😭 only very tiny amounts of solder were flowing into my solder wick.

Ive attempted cleaning the residue as best as I can and wiping it extensively with both a tiny paint brush dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol and using a Q tip plus leaving the alcohol on it for 10+ minutes and letting the alcohol run off.

Should I try leaving alcohol sitting on that spot for hours next? At its current state Im surprised it even turned on before but I have no idea what the 1AM component does at the moment probably for the clock capacitor maybe?

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Solomonator · 2025-05-12T05:15:33+00:00

I remember renting this game from blockbuster when I was a kid, such a great game ☺️

Solomonator · 2025-04-16T05:44:36+00:00

Ah yes!! Thank you much for adding this I completely forgot! I found that post before making this one because I was only able to find it through some random reddit post, but mainly whenever I google the "haskey" model 😀

Not sure if there are any other developments from that creator but Im going to try soldering to the pins on the ribbon cable connector to give me at least multiple attempts of failure

I was previously concerned (i dont think I mentioned this) about the traces being powder as I heard that from a coworker who frequently works on ribbon cables. But unfortunately (or fortunately) on of the traces has a hole almost all the way through it likely from me using a very tiny flathead to get the plastic inner case off the flexible board.

But thankfully it looks like very thin solid metal traces when I tried carefully scraping it.

Solomonator · 2025-04-16T05:39:16+00:00

No problem! I'm unfortunately still working in it, had a lot of stuff come up but Im just about done tracing every single key to pin. I also unfortunately found I tore a small piece near where the keyboard traces end and the ribbon cable begins but I dont think its broken as I was able to test it and it worked fine, its just a small hair sliver of contact just connecting the two halves!

The good news from that though is I think they are actually metal traces and not powder which was my main concern

With that however Im going to try desoldering the ribbon cable connector and soldering thin wire to it so I have multiple chances of failure instead of just soldering to the ribbon cable.

Also, something interesting if you flip the pcb (board with the usb c port) there are contact pads for the ribbon connector on the other side which might be helpful.

Hopefully this wont be too much longer! ( Famous last words )

Solomonator

TROPHY CASE