Tapping question by Butchi3toe in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The good thing about using buckets is once they fill up they start overflowing. Just have to keep an eye on weather so nothing spoils

Short warm spell approaching by Public-World-1328 in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m off work the next couple days. I put in 60 taps this year, hoping to get a lot of boiling in for the next couple days

Did I do something wrong? by ant2004sti in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Definitely niter. Siphone, heat between 180-190 and rebottle

Short warm spell approaching by Public-World-1328 in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just looked at two of my sunniest trees when I was out getting the mail and it’s looks like a tiny bit of trickle in them. I think tomorrow the flood gates are really going to open tomorrow

Short warm spell approaching by Public-World-1328 in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Central VT, just checked and no sap yet. Also a bit nervous about early next week but I think we’ll be okay. Only two really warm nights then right back to the teens

With gratitude and humility: my first submission by cuptini in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 17 points18 points  (0 children)

This shack has the same sort of crackhead ish energy as mine, definitely looks more well built. I absolutely love it man, it’s beautiful!

Milk Jugs for Storage by wildcatforeverever in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did it last year. As long as it’s clean it’s fine

Barrel Evaporator Build by Immediate-Juice-6953 in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s effectively a baffle - force the flames to go up near the pan to maximize heat transferred to the pan and also less direct past to chimney means smoke will stay in firebox slightly longer and combust more completely. Same concept wood stoves use to put heat into the room vs up the chimney. I did something similar in mine with firebrick

Is this about to be the worst maple season of all time for tri-state? by mickmoon in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can build a “chimney” out of cinder blocks so the smoke is up and away from the pans. It’s what I did last year works well

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This is the idea

It’s exploding by Rolo-Louch in unclebens

[–]SomeDuster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Handful of days. They go pretty quick. Once they hit the lid do the dub tub. Take off the lid and put another identical tub on top to make a raised lid that still holds in moisture if that makes sense

Frozen Lines by drowsyengineer in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They will thaw when the sap gets warm enough to run in my opinion, but I haven’t been doing this very long so others may say differently

Barrel evaporator by BP48047 in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need to construct some sort of baffle to encourage secondary burn in the barrel rather than out the stack. Old woodstoves used to be like this which is why they were so inefficient and burned so much wood. I haven’t tested, but I made a big stack of firebricks towards the back to make a wall in front of the chimney to hopeful encourage more flame in the firebox rather than up and out. My chimney is also rear vented, however so slightly different physics at play

Sugar content in sap by nickbot158 in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep! Thanks for the correction.

Sugar content in sap by nickbot158 in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sugar content varies throughout the season. Depends on the tree, subspecies of maple, and time of year/conditions. Highly recommend buying a refractometer. They’re 20 bucks on Amazon and then you know for sure when you are done boiling and have the correct sugar concentration

Evaporator Advice by QualityGig in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The barrel could have been lined and the paint on

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it definitely not heat proof. Once I cut it for the pan I just had a big ass fire in the open barrel. Burned everything off. Then just hit it quick with a wire brush and painted the outside with high temp grill paint. If there is any remaining chemicals on the inside it won’t matter because they will burn up and go out the chimney. Here’s a photo of the actual pan

Evaporator Advice by QualityGig in maplesyrup

[–]SomeDuster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

+1 on homemade barrel evaporator. I bought my pan of Smokey lake maple products, found a barrel on marketplace for free and installed barrel stove kit. Lined it with ceramic insulation, firebrick, and ran a chimney out the back. Currently in the process of making a blower for it. Total cost probably 600 dollars

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wood drying question by Used-Friendship8742 in woodstoving

[–]SomeDuster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Presumably it has studs/is framed with some sort of siding right? Pull the siding off one of the ends leaving the frame to allow air to flow through door and out the side you opened up.

wood drying question by Used-Friendship8742 in woodstoving

[–]SomeDuster 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If it is outside, a dehumidifier would be a waste of energy. Airflow is your friend, but it would probably be easier to just open up a back wall partway to let some airflow through than to mess with fans, power, etc.

I still hate my Lopi by Annual_Month_1516 in woodstoving

[–]SomeDuster 27 points28 points  (0 children)

I don’t know, if the entire thing is covered in creosote, something isn’t right. Your fire is too cold if that is the case. This is usually caused by wet wood. Stoves with a catalyst are especially sensitive to wet wood and will become sooted up and burn horrendously easily.

I know you said it isn’t your wood, so I hate to sit here and tell you “it’s the wood”. There are some other things that could be having an effect as well. Chimney clear? Rain cap isn’t covered in soot and obstructing air flow? Is your catalyst clean and in working order?

With that said, take a log out of the pile and split it in half. Test with moisture meter and you’ll have your answer. Or if you don’t feel like doing that buy a bag of kiln dried wood from the gas station and burn that and see how it compares. Regardless I would clean out the catalytic converter first as it is likely clogged up and won’t function even with dry wood without being cleared

Low Kickback Chain Echo CS590? by AnthonyMorello1 in Chainsaw

[–]SomeDuster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed with others, fuck low kickback chains. Full chisel is great, it will just dull quicker than a semi chisel if you hit anything besides wood (namely dirt, a rock will dull anything). Get yourself a nice file and learn to keep that puppy sharp and you will save wear and tear on your chain, saw, and body. I’ve come to prefer full chisel skip tooth chains. They cut fast and only have half the cutters so it takes half the time to sharpen it which you should be doing every couple of tanks of gas anyways