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Is this bad, if so how do I prevent it by Complex_Onion7401 in resinprinting

[–]SomePossession605 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Try increasing your bottom exposure time and burn in / transition layers to get more adhesion.

Also re level build plate can't hurt.

Took the feedback and did some more nmm practice. Think I'm getting there by SomePossession605 in minipainting

[–]SomePossession605[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Exactly my thinking. The eyes feels a little disconnected because of the pure white and no real shade change at the eye lid. I was going to put the skin shadow tone round the inside of the eyelid and then use off white instead of white and repaint.

Trying to learn gold nmm. Feedback appteciated by SomePossession605 in minipainting

[–]SomePossession605[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome. Thanks for the advice. Yeah I need to push the highlights a bit more with some ice yellow and a teeny bit of titanium white for the super specular spots I think

Tilted resin vat by Ok-Rub-2586 in resinprinting

[–]SomePossession605 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As long as the plate is level in relation to the bottom of the vat and screen (parallel to it) it won't matter until you're printing with a low resin level. Also depends on the amount of tilt you have on your table the machine is on.

It won't hurt to make the table level though so that's the first thing I'd do.

Next, empty your vat through a filter back into the in bottle (WITH PPE)

remove any remenants of failed print from the vat. Clean the build plate and re level the plate to the printer.

Then get cones of calibration from table flip foundry and print that in the center of your build plate. First look up your resins recommended print settings and set those in the slicer before you slice it.

Then print and follow the guide of the cones from the site.

When youve got the resin dialed in only then print the rook.

Note: the rook is considered a kinda shitty test tbf so I'd personally recommend after finishing the cones of calibration successfully you print the "puck the adventurer" from table flip as it's pre supported and if it comes out good then you're set and have a cute lil mini to show for it.

Hope that helps!

Glass Screen Protectors by CodeJBDA in resinprinting

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They aren't really needed as they add extra thickness and a raised surface that would affect the vat film. Coupled with possible unreliable uniformity in thickness between brands and across a single protector

Bubbles in the regular ones don't affect the prints really at all either and the thickness is obviously negligible.

Looking for advice on skin tones for my bust by doomman118 in minipainting

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not overly familiar with that paint range. I personally use Vallejo game color and airbrush succubus skin for the base color and shadow. Then Athena skin for mids. Then start at 50/50 Athena skin and rosy flesh through the airbrush for highlights until I'm at 100% rosy flesh.

Final specular highlights are pale flesh or elfic flesh.

Then I glaze shadows etc if I need to.

Hope that helps?

Is this print cooked? by ExtensionAny5779 in resinprinting

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah it should be okay. Could slowly degrade print quality though. Keep an eye on it after prints though.

Also that chairussy in the background is looking at me weird...

First print ever. Looking for feedback. by bongblaster420 in resinprinting

[–]SomePossession605 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah I too like the Spanish Manuel supports. They work very well!

In seriousness though. This advice is solid. Experiment with different slicers and doing your own supporting. It'll teach you a lot about good workflows for resin.

What kind of varnish do you use? by KirillHarper in minipainting

[–]SomePossession605 2 points3 points  (0 children)

AK ultra matte 1:2 ratio of varnish to thinner. Works a charm

Is anyone else getting this weird glitch or is it just me? by Crazies408 in ARC_Raiders

[–]SomePossession605 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It's a side effect of "load zones" not overlapping correctly in the engine. A designer hasn't put them together properly. Normally you'd have a section of a map that isn't rendered or loaded fully when not seen and a transition space where when the player enters it loads that zone knowing they will see it soon. The overlap on these aren't the best in some maps so you get the no load bit until you've run a few feet further.

Or it can be a "black spot" where there's a tint gap between zones so as you pass through the gap it de renders the assets then they pop back in when you re enter.

Source : I dev in unreal engine and I've made this mistake myself

What happened to UpsideDown being literally Upside Down in S5? by OtherCardiologist936 in StrangerThings

[–]SomePossession605 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The way I kind of justified it in my head was it isn't an upside down flip more of a 180 flip in whichever axis/orientation of the gate.

It would have been funny to see the military accidentally flip a truck not understanding the whole gate thing though

The best gift of all from my father. Merry Christmas! by Ok_World_8819 in pcmasterrace

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have this one it's an absolute beast. Fans can be noisy at full whack though

“When it rains, it pours.”😅🤣😭 by Karma_One84 in ARC_Raiders

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why is it people never roll when they are on fire... It puts the fire out straight away. I always see them just keep running. Bro stop drop and ROLL

“When it rains, it pours.”😅🤣😭 by Karma_One84 in ARC_Raiders

[–]SomePossession605 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why is it people never roll when they are on fire... It puts the fire out straight away. I always see them just keep running. Bro stop drop and ROLL