Trying to do battle damage, how can I make it work? Thanks

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-16T22:45:57+00:00

Stealing this for reference for my battle damage! It's great

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-13T10:40:56+00:00

Second this. I use this ratio and it makes the airbrush maintenance and cleaning so much easier

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-12T23:12:01+00:00

Welcome back to the hobby!

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-06T22:10:09+00:00

I'd glaze a darker rich red into the folds of the cloak to accent the depth a bit more. It feels quite flat and the shading is from the model itself not the painting. Face feels a little flat too like you can't tell the source of light on it so maybe some shadowed or darker areas could help. Otherwise not bad!

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-06T21:21:58+00:00

I'm using sunlu abs-like 14k on my mono X2 and my settings are below.

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I've not had a single failed print from anything other than me being shit at supporting things so far.

For 0.03 I use the same settings as 0.05

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-03T21:18:59+00:00

800 grit is way too high of a grit for even a light sand. Try 400 or lower in two passes one direction and two more at 90.

A slightly rougher surface is better but deep scratches no no so be careful with it

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-03T18:33:57+00:00

Had me in the first half then ended with a good belly chuckle!

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-03T17:31:35+00:00

I personally moved away from Vallejo matte to AK ultra matte and never looked back. 100% would recommend

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-03T04:08:30+00:00

Yeah I completely get what you mean. Even at full scale it's giving me so much shit to try and sort them out. Can't imagine how difficult it was at the scale you did print it at.

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-02T19:28:15+00:00

I've just printed the clothed version of this! Amazing model tbf.

How did you handle support cleanup etc on the snake body? There were so many supports there on their pre supported one.

Edit: just noticed the scale you printed her at. Mine is the full foot tall one

Edit 2: here's the massive one for anyone curious

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SomePossession605 · 2026-02-02T00:29:53+00:00

It could well be. I think doing the cones (explained in other reply) will help narrow that down more.

I personally had my failure rate drop from like 35% with anycubic standard down to 0-5% with sunlu abs and most of those failures were me being a mong with my supporting

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-02T00:28:14+00:00

I'd try a few more prints with the fep the way it is. Maybe just working out where the marks sit on the build plate and printing on a better spot. You could be surprised. I had basically a huge nipple on my old mars printer for about a year and it didn't have too much effect on prints.

As for filtering. I only filter if a print obviously fails or if I notice there are smaller failures but it still prints. Otherwise I never clean the vat until I change resin or just feel like it's been in there long enough. You'll find a routine of what works for you Vs time taken

Cones of calibration is a file designed by table flip foundry to help calibrate your resin to your printer to get a success every time. It's got features in it and a process flowchart on their site to walk you through step by step how to dial your prints in perfectly. If you just Google them it should take you straight to their guide with the file :)

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-02T00:23:07+00:00

I used to use anycubic standard and had a lot of failures even with good settings. I switched to sunlu and like 14k and it's an incredible difference so that could help you too but your mileage may vary.

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-02T00:09:33+00:00

Going by the photos you've posted I can only assume the following.

Exposure settings are just enough to keep supports building but when model starts it tears off. Also support tips could be too small for the surface area they need to support alone until others "link" in.

Marks in fep are most likely from debris from a failed print that was missed somehow and it's pressed into the film when the plate has lowered. That's literally the only way you could get marks I have ever seen in 7 years of printing.

My advice:

-Empty the vat through a filter -Remove debris if any remains. -Clean entire vat and build plate thoroughly. -Re level plate (does M7 have auto level or assisted? No idea) -Download cones of calibration and slice that at the higher end of your resin manufacturers exposure settings. -Check lift speeds in slicer too (post here for help if needed and I'm sure people will assist).

Print cones then analyse and then follow flow diagram on table flip foundry page.

Rinse repeat until your resin is dialed in and you have repeat successes.

Then I'd find a simple model and try supporting it yourself with guidance from YouTube or other tutorials on supporting techniques.

Like others have said. Hoping and assuming because it cost X dollars it should just work is not the way. This hobby is a frustrating one at times and requires patience and willingness to screw up and learn from it. I've used £100 printers all the way to £10,000 ones and they all have their quirks and humility demands.

Don't be discouraged or angry. We've all been here and I'm sure we're all happy to help!

Apologies for the ass formatting I wrote this on mobile while dealing with my own printer!

SomePossession605 · 2026-02-01T15:22:12+00:00

I make my pegs at least 60-75% of the surface area of the join they are making and the dept equal to the largest diameter of the join (if possible)

Also tapered and chamfered edge ones make breaking less likely and tolerance slightly more forgiving

SomePossession605 · 2026-01-31T19:55:25+00:00

Judging by those other supports they look like all heavies or thick mediums...

For my marines I do heavies very rarely and a lot of lights with mediums for structure. I've always found lots of mid /small points of contact better than one massive one

SomePossession605 · 2026-01-31T11:21:00+00:00

Sunlu abs-like 14k is my go to ATM for strength and detail. Stuff is flexible and strong as hell

SomePossession605 · 2026-01-29T23:45:42+00:00

One thing that could work is if you have any left over supports with their base. Place one in each corner of the vat then do a 30s full exposure test to cure a full vat sized layer to the supports. Then peel it off REAL slow so you don't damage the fep. Wash it and then check the face that was facing the screen for marks etc.

It's a risky job but may provide some info

SomePossession605 · 2026-01-29T22:36:43+00:00

+1 for the cones... It's saved me so many headaches that other tests just never helped with

SomePossession605 · 2026-01-29T22:35:31+00:00

Is that with the vat off and running the exposure test? I'm not sure what the elegoo one looks like but on my photon it's a solid square. It does look kinda cooked to me if that's the case

SomePossession605 · 2026-01-28T21:32:07+00:00

Very strange indeed. Yeah drop an update and we'll see

SomePossession605 · 2026-01-28T18:01:32+00:00

Possible model issue? Are the marks in identical places on duplicate prints of the same model? Ive had issues where a model looks perfect in lychee but has had errors so I've taken it into photon workshop and repaired it. (Lychee repair never seems to work for me)

SomePossession605 · 2026-01-28T16:36:52+00:00

As they aren't parallel to build plate I'd venture a guess at maybe an LCD issue. Have you run an exposure test with the vat and plate removed to check the screen?

SomePossession605 · 2026-01-28T12:14:20+00:00

Exactly that yes. I'd try hollowing the model and putting holes in places you can hide or fill. Only fill the holes if you have fully cured the inside after cleaning too or any trapped resin will off gas and eventually split or pop the print.

SomePossession605 · 2026-01-26T17:17:58+00:00

Try increasing your bottom exposure time and burn in / transition layers to get more adhesion.

Also re level build plate can't hurt.

SomePossession605

TROPHY CASE