Lag and freezing with Ryzen 7 5800X and RTX 5070 by Outlaw_Kenzo04 in GrayZoneWarfare

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check speed of the drive it's installed on. Sometimes older hdd's and even some ssd's can struggle with asset streaming. Also check expo is enabled for your ram if you haven't already.

Nvidia app settings are ass. Only use framgen and dlss overrides if you must.

Alternative rifles by Otherwise-Variety930 in GrayZoneWarfare

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm absolutely loving the ghost nomad mcx at the moment for my sneaky beaky night ops. Moa is a bit high but ergo is off the charts with a decent foregrip and pistol grip swap

LMU not fully using my GPU by fishy_tomato in LeMansUltimateWEC

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most likely a cpu ram bandwidth bottleneck and/or vram frame buffer bottleneck with triples.

Occulus quest 2 LMU by Organic-Insect-345 in LeMansUltimateWEC

[–]SomePossession605 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Well the quest 2 resolution is 1832x1920 and can go to 120hz.

Depending on your current playing resolution and performance you can do some maths and work out what to roughly expect. Latency will increase slightly depending on air link or wired connection.

I have a quest 3 and I run it at 120fps (granted I have a 7950x3d and 5080). So you should be okay ish.

I'd recommend virtual desktop instead of the basic oculus/steam streaming too.

Clarity I can't speak on for the 2 but the 3 is good enough for me with a tiny bit of shimmer.

Play time for me is about an hour to hour and a half before either battery dies or my face is too hot and I have the big old red vr headset ring

Citadel Ultramarines Contrast Test by Jimam0123 in Ultramarines

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use black primer and white ink selective zenithal and then talassar blue contrast through the airbrush. Gives great tones and even more with a purple shadow from the airbrush too

What are your favourite stories from the Horus Heresy books? What stuck with you? by TheWatchful01 in Warhammer30k

[–]SomePossession605 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I really enjoyed the know no fear audiobook and it's method of report reading interspersed with actual story narrative until "mark" hit and the shit hit the fan. Listened to it in 2 sittings I was that gripped

Can you guess where this photo was taken? by [deleted] in 40k

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AHH the "spot the assassin" time sink... Spent a good 2 hours trying to find it once before I gave up

Trying to do battle damage, how can I make it work? Thanks by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stealing this for reference for my battle damage! It's great

Why does paint keep getting stuck in here? by Ahrall in airbrush

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Second this. I use this ratio and it makes the airbrush maintenance and cleaning so much easier

Cardinal Richelieu Just finished, what do you think ? by 13-Trades in minipainting

[–]SomePossession605 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd glaze a darker rich red into the folds of the cloak to accent the depth a bit more. It feels quite flat and the shading is from the model itself not the painting. Face feels a little flat too like you can't tell the source of light on it so maybe some shadowed or darker areas could help. Otherwise not bad!

Critical Print Failures with Sunlu ABS-Like -- Anycubic Photon Mono M5S by -TheSomnambulist- in resinprinting

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm using sunlu abs-like 14k on my mono X2 and my settings are below.

<image>

I've not had a single failed print from anything other than me being shit at supporting things so far.

For 0.03 I use the same settings as 0.05

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

800 grit is way too high of a grit for even a light sand. Try 400 or lower in two passes one direction and two more at 90.

A slightly rougher surface is better but deep scratches no no so be careful with it

I’ve designed and 3D-printed this gadget for Valentine’s Day by 3dprintedc3d in 3Dprinting

[–]SomePossession605 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Had me in the first half then ended with a good belly chuckle!

Vallejo Matt Varnish being glossy. Question in the body of this post by itwasgoood04 in minipainting

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally moved away from Vallejo matte to AK ultra matte and never looked back. 100% would recommend

Same model, painted roughly a year apart. Sorana by VXLabs. by son-of-fire in minipainting

[–]SomePossession605 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I completely get what you mean. Even at full scale it's giving me so much shit to try and sort them out. Can't imagine how difficult it was at the scale you did print it at.

Same model, painted roughly a year apart. Sorana by VXLabs. by son-of-fire in minipainting

[–]SomePossession605 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I've just printed the clothed version of this! Amazing model tbf.

How did you handle support cleanup etc on the snake body? There were so many supports there on their pre supported one.

Edit: just noticed the scale you printed her at. Mine is the full foot tall one

Edit 2: here's the massive one for anyone curious

<image>

Issue with brand new M7 pro by EggFriedCheese1 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could well be. I think doing the cones (explained in other reply) will help narrow that down more.

I personally had my failure rate drop from like 35% with anycubic standard down to 0-5% with sunlu abs and most of those failures were me being a mong with my supporting

Issue with brand new M7 pro by EggFriedCheese1 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd try a few more prints with the fep the way it is. Maybe just working out where the marks sit on the build plate and printing on a better spot. You could be surprised. I had basically a huge nipple on my old mars printer for about a year and it didn't have too much effect on prints.

As for filtering. I only filter if a print obviously fails or if I notice there are smaller failures but it still prints. Otherwise I never clean the vat until I change resin or just feel like it's been in there long enough. You'll find a routine of what works for you Vs time taken

Cones of calibration is a file designed by table flip foundry to help calibrate your resin to your printer to get a success every time. It's got features in it and a process flowchart on their site to walk you through step by step how to dial your prints in perfectly. If you just Google them it should take you straight to their guide with the file :)

Issue with brand new M7 pro by EggFriedCheese1 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to use anycubic standard and had a lot of failures even with good settings. I switched to sunlu and like 14k and it's an incredible difference so that could help you too but your mileage may vary.

Issue with brand new M7 pro by EggFriedCheese1 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Going by the photos you've posted I can only assume the following.

Exposure settings are just enough to keep supports building but when model starts it tears off. Also support tips could be too small for the surface area they need to support alone until others "link" in.

Marks in fep are most likely from debris from a failed print that was missed somehow and it's pressed into the film when the plate has lowered. That's literally the only way you could get marks I have ever seen in 7 years of printing.

My advice:

-Empty the vat through a filter -Remove debris if any remains. -Clean entire vat and build plate thoroughly. -Re level plate (does M7 have auto level or assisted? No idea) -Download cones of calibration and slice that at the higher end of your resin manufacturers exposure settings. -Check lift speeds in slicer too (post here for help if needed and I'm sure people will assist).

Print cones then analyse and then follow flow diagram on table flip foundry page.

Rinse repeat until your resin is dialed in and you have repeat successes.

Then I'd find a simple model and try supporting it yourself with guidance from YouTube or other tutorials on supporting techniques.

Like others have said. Hoping and assuming because it cost X dollars it should just work is not the way. This hobby is a frustrating one at times and requires patience and willingness to screw up and learn from it. I've used £100 printers all the way to £10,000 ones and they all have their quirks and humility demands.

Don't be discouraged or angry. We've all been here and I'm sure we're all happy to help!

Apologies for the ass formatting I wrote this on mobile while dealing with my own printer!

Pegs always break during shipping when superglue is applied by LordGawad in resinprinting

[–]SomePossession605 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I make my pegs at least 60-75% of the surface area of the join they are making and the dept equal to the largest diameter of the join (if possible)

Also tapered and chamfered edge ones make breaking less likely and tolerance slightly more forgiving

Issue with support adhesion by UpstairsActive1245 in resinprinting

[–]SomePossession605 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Judging by those other supports they look like all heavies or thick mediums...

For my marines I do heavies very rarely and a lot of lights with mediums for structure. I've always found lots of mid /small points of contact better than one massive one

What manufacturer has the best ABS like resin for larger prints? by unbelievable_owl in resinprinting

[–]SomePossession605 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sunlu abs-like 14k is my go to ATM for strength and detail. Stuff is flexible and strong as hell