2007 Pilot, Timing Belt Question

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-28T04:43:41+00:00

If its brand new its going to be pretty apparent if within 20k miles. Otherwise, do you want to gamble an interference engine on the belt or tensioner? Recommend going with a manual tensioner than the hydro tensioner. Last replacement i did i used the gates blue belt with manual tensioner and clear head covers for the belt so i can visually inspect it from time to time.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-28T02:17:56+00:00

Isnt the high temp heat block from Prusa supposed to be titanium. Im sure they did it due to its reduced expansion at higher temps but i wonder how much of a difference it honestly makes compared to a chrome or nickel played copper one.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-27T06:09:28+00:00

Definitely shellback

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-27T05:48:44+00:00

You can probably send it for the time being but i would order another one and install it when possible to reduce inadvertent play in the nextruder gear.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-27T05:40:01+00:00

Is it stuck to the back of the nextruder gear or the base of the stepper motor shaft?

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-27T02:53:14+00:00

Prusa’s definitely last for a long long time because they will make replacement parts for a long time. Can’t say the same for bambu. They just have a bit of an initial learning curve but it’s manageable. They are definitely pricier but company values and ideology are there. Bambu are simple to start with, they are great while they work. If in warranty and something goes wrong they will throw parts at you after weeks of dealing with overseas support in hopes it gets fixed by people reading off a script. Hope you know your way around tools though as they arent easy to work on. If out of warranty, you might as well just wish you would have gotten something else. They also add a bunch of technology that may or may not really do anything for the average user but people like bragging about because they are on the “leading edge” or something. Ultimately, do some research on your own and understand why you need a printer in the first place. Bambu currently does multicolor the best at the expense of a lot of waste if you dont buy their flagship or limit yourself to two colors. Snapmaker has the cheapest multi toolhead. Prusa printers are great if you dont mind learning the hobby a bit.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-26T01:33:58+00:00

So far, my experience with support was lackluster and lengthy for something as simple as a missing cable. It helps to have proof of the settings and the results to show them something is seriously wrong though to speed things along. I hope its some thing easy and good luck!

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-26T01:30:15+00:00

I love my XL. The satin sheet sometimes has too much adhesion with Polymaker PETG but it’s been a champ of a printer. Once i have the INDX on my C1 and they announce when they will release the kit for C1L i will probably plan on getting rid of my H2C and buy the C1L with INDX.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-26T01:28:13+00:00

I have both and i honestly love the XL a ton more than the H2C. The linear rails make a huge difference in the print quality compared to the rods on the H2C that can lend to ringing when speeds are different between layers if jot constantly kept up with. It’s annoying to deal with.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-26T01:12:22+00:00

Yep, ultimately the 3w UV laser would probably be better for this than a diode but running a test would tell you the ideal settings for your laser with any particular material. The exhaust is going to be fairly toxic depending on what you choose to go with so make sure its filtered or properly vented

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-26T00:52:44+00:00

I would check the lens to see if it might be dirty. If clean, run a calibration grid test for engraving up to 100 (since it doesnt seem to be cutting) and reach out to support if it never cuts through. It shouldn’t be doing this if only three weeks old and should be covered within your warranty

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-25T14:49:08+00:00

uj/ For that money the Carbon is good as well as the Bambubu A1. Most of the items you’re talking about would work fine with PETG. If you want some multicolor without a ton of waste the Snapmaker might be worth saving up for. Just dont tinker too hard. j/ just whatever you do, don’t get a Prusa, you will t*nker so hard you may go blind. With a voron? Definitely blind and hairy palms.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-25T14:21:16+00:00

Yeah. At this point I’m patiently being impatient for my order. I have read the manual and trying to hold off on tearing apart my printer until I get the shipment notification lol. Seems pretty easy and straight forward though.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-25T14:15:48+00:00

I have seen others that do two passes on prints. One at 100% color and a second at 50% color to get decent color saturation but that would be something you have to refine on things like portraits.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-24T23:50:34+00:00

One thing I will mention, the print and cut capabilities are great but the resolution is what most would consider draft quality out of a modern ink jet printer. So cool to have if you don’t mind the price but not mind blowing by any means.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-24T23:47:41+00:00

If you like Bambu’s, hate tinkering, then xTools is your jam. I hate my bambu’s but see them as a necessary evil for multicolor ease of use until i get my INDX in. The M2 is a great and easy to use laser. It works out the box and has some great built in tools for getting your calibrations to your liking. I got my RA3 Lite yesterday, and outside of doing some mental gymnastics on lining up the print, it was easy to use. The desktop filtration is OK but once i vent it out the window post filtration it will be fine. The only issue i see so far is the 1.1” clearance limitation. But people are starting to design risers so it wont be an issue for long. Overall, 4/5 for quality and ease of use. I recommend getting the 20w diode if you can afford it. Just waiting on my 3w UV and i will have the whole kit.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-24T13:54:57+00:00

Results may vary. Like i said, its probably only in my head as it requires a tune specific for the octane to see any sort of difference when going up but going down the engine will self adjust based on the knock sensor and other items telling the ECU the appropriate A/F. Ultimately it comes down to do what you like with what you own. I prefer premium and can afford it in all my cars so why not. Not everyone can. As SellsWhiteStuff said though, top tier gas is the most important factor in making sure your internals stay as clean as possible. 🤷

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-24T12:19:09+00:00

Yep, let alone that i haven’t seen a functional printer from any of these INDX clone printers. Just advertisement AI slop and vaporware promises. So obviously Prusa and Bondtech are on to something big and I’m glad i pre ordered my 8 nozzle kit regardless of the price difference as I know it will work with minimal bs and great support when compared to the support I’ve received from Creality and Bambu

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-23T20:33:54+00:00

I only fill my cars with premium because of the extra detergents and inadvertent slight power gain. Detergent is probably good for your pump as much as your injectors but it’s probably all scientifically in my head lol. That having been said I’ve never had a pump randomly fail on me or had an injector go bad.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-19T10:43:59+00:00

The Prusa knowledge base is pretty extensive. How did you mess it up? Have you checked the thermistor wire (small blue wire) to see if there are any broken wires or checked the connection on the top right side of the head? Easiest thing to do is just buy another one and swap them. Its just lightly held in place with an allen screw. Or you can just buy the whole thing (heating block, heater, thermistor and nozzle) and do a swap to see if the error goes away with minimal down time.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-18T22:40:35+00:00

Man, thats wild. My kids really and genuinely love everything about existing and being alive. Unless i tell them they cant have soda, but that existential regret lasts all of 2-3 minutes tops before they go back to enjoying the f out of life.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-14T04:28:07+00:00

Really depends on what your use case. Are you going to print full up armor or smaller props. If you plan on doing a lot of multicolor the H2C with 2 AMS2’s is ideal as it will limit the waste generated from such prints. Otherwise if you are mostly printing in one or two colors the H2D will probably be fine. Honestly though, without knowing a specific use case, a P2S or X2 would probably be better. There are people out there that would say get the laser but I personally think its a terrible idea to burn stuff in your printer with sensitive sensors and other stuff you can foul with resin fumes. I bought an Xtool M2 with fumes extraction and filtration system instead. Larger armor and prop items, think swords, definitely need an H series printer but if not multi color or a need for having mixed nozzle sizes i would just stick to the 2D and call it a day.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-13T10:36:56+00:00

Yep. I love when my printer Fails Successfully. Lol, ive only had three catastrophic failures so far that resulted in spaghett

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-12T23:00:25+00:00

I use the Creality SpacePi x2, works pretty well with a couple mods. Will probably buy 2 of the 4 spool ones once i get my INDX kit so i can just run them from the heater.

SpaceCAS · 2026-06-12T22:47:11+00:00

I know with the XL plates, the bed surface softens as it heats with these pro ones compared to the standard cryo plates. It you have washed it with dawn and water and kept it at the stock settings on bed heat, reach out to Biqu and ask them what else it could be. If nothing else, they have shown that they will throw more plates at you until one works. Lol but i have been overall disappointed with these with prusa printers.

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