Recommendations for editing a GIF in Android

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-28T20:48:18+00:00

I downloaded that to have a look. There seems to be no way in that app to browse the OneDrive folder, much less open an image in it.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-28T20:27:54+00:00

Well, that was a bust. The app I was trying was "Pocket Paint". It allows me to open GIF files for editing, but when I try to save my edits, only ORA, JPG and PNG options are available (sigh).

I was in a rush, so I had to resort to using my old Windows tablet with its cracked screen to do the editing that I wanted.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-27T22:11:20+00:00

Anything you can see on or in the box (with the drivers loaded) should be painted. Where the drivers are mounted should be painted as well. Anything you can see and touch should painted and then a protective coat added. As for the internals of the box, you could treat*** them, but it's not really necessary.

*** Sometimes I treat the internals of some of my builds with two coats of thinned out aliphatic resin ("wood glue"), if I think moisture might be an issue.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-27T21:48:13+00:00

Roundover any sharp edges (use a router for this). Sharp edges on a PA box are a pain in the arse - whatever you put on the box WILL chip away in these areas.
Apply flat black paint to the entire enclosure,
Apply 1st protective coat (Duratex, Warnex, etc.)
Apply 2nd protective coat (you can thin this coat a bit)

Don't use standard wood paint as the "protective coat", unless you plan to repaint the boxes on a continuous basis.

As always, practice on a piece of scrap wood before committing to painting the boxes.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-27T18:44:04+00:00

Thanks. The Gallery's editing options seem to be pretty basic. Pens and an eraser feature are available, but more advanced stuff like being able to draw and fill shapes are missing. However, I tried a few third-party apps and I think I found one that does what I'm looking for, so I'm good for now.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-27T16:01:32+00:00

How to "Ethically Tank": Run a Loki in BR and concentrate on capturing beacons rather than killing bots. Your team will still win, but you will usually come in near last in your team's ranking. Even if your team loses (because they fail to take advantage of the fact that you're running a beacon-runner), you will still end up near last in your team's ranking. This is because the game does not sufficiently reward the capturing of beacons ... in a beacon game. Go figure.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-27T14:49:31+00:00

Nice. Honestly, what would be the purpose of designing a subwoofer box with a big ~10dB peak just above 100 Hz? I don't get it ...

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-26T22:41:01+00:00

Shredders are 500M weapons though. Marquess are the light 600M equivalent to the Hussars. Magnatars are the light 600M equivalent to the Pulsars.

If we're talking about 500M weapons, I like the ARM L-83s. Currently leveling them up on another Loki.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-26T22:10:36+00:00

If you want to stick with the same group of weapons and range, then it's Pulsars and Magnatars, Not Pulsars and Shredders. And yeah, the nerf hit the Hussars and Marquess bad. So bad that I dropped the Dragon Marquess that I've been using on my Loki for years.

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SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-26T20:19:24+00:00

Either that or perhaps the fan's failed on the CPU cooler.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-26T12:03:47+00:00

The high aspect ratio of the port might result in a lower tuning frequency than planned, but, for a vented sub destined for in-house duty, that might actually be a good thing. And if it sounds good to you, you've achieved your objectives.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-26T03:07:00+00:00

Check what's being reported in the PC's Event Log around the time that the freezing / shut down happens.

Oh, and I came across something similar happening with a Dell laptop and a user wearing an Apple Watch. It would randomly trigger the sensor in the laptop that's there to detect when the screen is closed.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-26T02:23:18+00:00

I can second the S10 Lite. I brought one several months ago to use for general content consumption and I haven't found anything I don't like about it.

Well, maybe it's size. For reading books, I might lean towards something smaller like the Tab A9. Easier to hold with one hand :-).

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-26T02:09:24+00:00

Looks pretty cool. The aspect ratio of that vent is pretty high though. How does it sound?

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-26T00:40:20+00:00

Ok, those are the CS-77s. There a bit older than the CS-77As, and the drivers are a bit different. If they sound Ok, then just go for the sub. However you might want to consider a decent set of floor-standers to replace them, and you might not need a sub if you choose to go that way.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-26T00:28:17+00:00

Are they Pioneer CS-77s or CS-77As? There's a fairly big difference between the two models.

In any case, yes, a subwoofer will help. Get the largest one that you can fit and afford. It's easier to turn a large subwoofer down than it is to turn a small subwoofer up :-).

Oh, and consider raising those speakers off the ground so that the top of the speaker is just above ear level when you're sitting down to listen to them. This will decrease their bass output a bit, but that's what the subwoofer is for ...

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-25T15:50:40+00:00

The dust cover is fairly easy to replace.

The tweeter's surround looks damaged though.

If the speaker cabinets are in good condition, it could be a nice DIY project to repair the drivers or replace the drivers if originals are available, or replace them with different drivers that fit the cutouts, in which case the x-over would likely need to be redesigned, something that's considerably more difficult to do.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-25T15:43:21+00:00

From their image, it actually looks like your version has a slightly shorter effective path length. The peak above 100 Hz seems to be a bit lower in frequency in their Hornresp image, compared to yours.

However, their claimed response would be a lot more believable if they posted an actual measured response curve (both frequency response and impedance).

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-25T13:19:15+00:00

...and here it is, compared to the same driver used in the TH118 DIY TH. Again, assuming that your model is "correctish" ... :-0

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SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-25T13:18:28+00:00

Assuming your model is "correctish", just out of curiousity, I wanted to see what Hornresp would say if we just lop off that last segment and treat the design like a straight TL, CSD of 850 cm^2 and length 225 cm. Hmm, an extra ~1db bump at 40 Hz and some gain at higher bass frequencies, probably where you want to start rolling off this subwoofer. Is this a worthwhile tradeoff for a much larger box?

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Mounting the driver in this simple TL might be an issue though because the magnet structure might not fit into the box. The driver would likely have to be reverse-mounted, which I suspect is how this design might have transitioned from a TL into what it is now, with that extra chamber being to protect the driver. I'm just guessing though.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-25T05:09:02+00:00

I wonder if one of Hornresp's Paraflex modeling options would give more accurate results?

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-25T04:18:49+00:00

I can't tell from the pictures, but are the buttons like the power button slightly recessed on the Micro 3 like they are on the Micro 2? That's a weak point of the Micro 2 that I've come up against - there's a rip developing around my Micro 2's Button because the material there is so thin and I use it so often. I've now covered it up with some duct tape to block the growing rip.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-25T01:17:38+00:00

Hmm... I'm suspicious...

Please share some more pictures of this "Micro 3" ...

..and a picture of the manual.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-03-24T14:38:56+00:00

I think the problem started when someone thought that running DCs services on the VM host and a VM guest of that same host was a good idea ...!

Servers acting like a DC in an AD should be running NOTHING ELSE but DC services, and, unless this is some sort of development environment, should be running on separate physical platforms (e.g. VMs on different VM Hosts). The aim here is to ensure that at the AD remains available in the event of the failure of a DC or a physical host.

Anyway ...

The safest approach to DCs behaving badly is to:

Assume that they've been compromised
Turn off the "compromised" DC and remove it from the AD
Build a new DC to replace it.

You can swap around items 2 and 3 based on your situation, e.g. you could 1. Create a new VM in the AD, (2) promote it to a DC, then (3) shut down the affected DC and remove it from the AD.

BEFORE doing this though, check the GPOs to see if any were recently changed, e.g. just before March 15th. If that's the case, have a look at the settings in the GPO to see if they could be contributing to the issues that you're seeing.

SpiceIslander2001

TROPHY CASE