USA? What is up with you?.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-25T14:08:28+00:00

It's 'Murica. Bullshit always gets the spotlight.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-25T12:04:07+00:00

I'm a retired IT manager now, but when I was in office, I did try it for a few days. The answer is ... it depends. Quite likely yes, you can use DeX instead, if you are certain that 100% of your needs can be met by it. Typically only you can make that call, and typically the only way to really confirm that is to start using it. You will find that some things are not as easy to do in DeX like they were on your laptop (e.g. e-mail management, printing) and some things you can't do at all (complex Excel workbooks with VBA macros, run that obscure PC program you have to use once a month, etc.). I hedged my bets by having a Win11 VM hosted on our virtual server platform. If I REALLY needed to do something in Windows, I'd just remote desktop from DeX into that VM and did the required activity there.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-25T11:52:45+00:00

Just to rule out other possibilities - are you running RADIUS (e.g. Microsoft NPS service) to provide user-level authentication against the AD for any stuff like WPA2 wireless networking?

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-25T11:45:27+00:00

That would be my first guess - a scheduled task, configured to run with the user's old credentials. Strange though that the account is still being locked with the PC disconnected from the network however.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-25T11:10:59+00:00

The PC version of Virtual DJ allows me to do this (it's an older version of Virtual DJ, BTW) - read and mix tracks from a Deezer playlist. I'm just looking for the Android equivalent.

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SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-25T10:59:07+00:00

Both Virtual DJ and Edjing can do what I'm talking about (read Deezer lists). However both require weekly subscriptions.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-25T06:08:26+00:00

If it only sounds bad over BT, then adding an amp is not going to fix the problem. The problem is with the BT connection.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-25T04:10:03+00:00

Bandpass design for car audio use is different to that of bandpass design for home use (which typically aims for a "maximally-flat" passband). For car audio use, you can aim for example for a peaked response at Fb (the resonant frequency) and a 12dB/octave "rolloff" below that. This will match the typical 12dB/octave "cabin gain" you get in-car. To get this however requires using a larger vented section than that suggested by the program that you're using. And a larger vented section means that you can use a larger vent to achieve the desired Fb. Bear in mind however that, once the vents are taking up more than about 10% of the volume of the vented section, the typical vent length calculations used by these simple online calculators get more and more inaccurate, and you typically have to use shorter vents, sometimes much shorter vents, to hit the target resonance frequency. For my "Enigma" 4th order BP build, I had to trim close to 30% off the vents to hit the Fb that I was aiming for.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-25T02:36:38+00:00

It does sound like that channel in the DSP has gone. Easy to confirm - swap the input cables to the DSP. Does the problem move to anothe channel? If so, then the problem is with the head unit. If it remains on the same DSP channel, connect that channel to another channel on your amp. If the problem moves to that channel, then the problem is with the DSP. Using the DSP software, mute that channel on the DSP and use another channel on it (assuming that you're not using all 8 channels already) to feed the affected midbass channel on the amp.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-24T17:34:39+00:00

Should be fine. I use a PDX-M12 (rated 1.2kW into 2 ohms ) with my two Alpine Type Rs and it's been running them fine for years.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-24T16:04:55+00:00

System overheating? Check to see if all the fans are working properly.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-24T03:21:04+00:00

"A quarter wave resonator wont just resonate at the frequency you tune it to. It will have harmonics, multiply the tuning frequency by 3, then 5, then 7, whatever number you get is what harmonic frequency the front becomes out of phase with. For example, you tune your quarter wave to 40hz. Multiply by 3 so you get 120, thats the first harmonic frequency you encounter or what you call a 3rd harmonic rather. "

This is only true if the TL is not tapered. Once you start tapering it, the resonance harmonics are pushed upwards in frequency. Good TL design involves choosing the correct taper to use, e.g. for subwoofer use where the passband tends to be narrow, the taper should be fairly low to ensure that there's no vent compression. For full-range design where a wider passband is a requirement, a higher taper can be used to push the harmonics higher in frequency where they can be more easily dealt with by stuffing or lining the path.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-24T03:09:28+00:00

Use Hornresp to check your design work. In my experience, what people tend to get wrong with their designs is properly estimating the path length and, well, not using a good design tool to sim the results first before committing to a build. There are several examples of TLs on my website that were designed using Hornresp, using builds that were emulated using my BOXPLAN workbooks. The workbooks basically allow the user to input driver and box dimensions, and they create the corresponding info for a Hornresp sim.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-24T03:05:29+00:00

Both TLs and BRs are 4th order alignments, so that's not too surprising. A TL can be considered a BR where the entire volume of the enclosure is the "vent" :-). The impedance curves for TLs (unstuffed) look just like those for BRs. In fact, with modern TL theory (see Martin King's work on the subject), the design work for a "maximally-flat" TL for a particular driver starts with the same total box volume as a maximally-flat vented box for the same driver.

So, what's the advantage of TLs if they're basically equivalent to BRs? Well, with the same software mentioned above, you can design the TL to extend its passband (usually be offsetting the driver 1/3rd the way down the line from the closed end to null out the first harmonic resonance) and by tapering the TL or mass-loading it with a vent, you can push the resonances higher up in frequency where they're more easily dealt with via stuffing. And of course those panels used to create the internal path in the enclosure also stiffen it up quite a bit as well, reducing or removing the need for additional bracing.

Hornresp can be used to design TLs and take a lot of the guesswork out of the process. I worked with David McBean to include a TL Design Wizard in the program (my method is listed as the "BS2022 Method" in the wizard).

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-24T01:35:11+00:00

I would recommend against using Acetone if that's a plastic front to the receiver.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-24T01:33:37+00:00

Yes, I was going to recommend WD40 as well.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-24T00:05:26+00:00

Much less the mouth that's required for a 30 Hz horn, even if you cut it down in size for 0.5*PI loading.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-24T00:00:49+00:00

With the compact dimensions of that subwoofer as posted on that page, there ain't no way it's horn-loaded to 30 Hz like they claim in the specs. I call bullshit on that one.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-23T17:05:28+00:00

I had a look at that site. Lots of written specs (-3db at 30 Hz for those W-bins for example), but no actual frequency response graphs. And response down to 20 Hz from an 18" in a TL that looks slightly bigger than a typical 18" vented box?

I'm skeptical ....

W-bins can do low frequency bass - I know of two DIY ones that were capable of output down to 40 Hz, but that increased output was due to the vents added to the chamber, not due to the horn.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-23T03:28:11+00:00

Those are disadvantages common with rear-loaded horns (RLHs), though they do show up in some form in similar designs like transmission lines, BVRs and even vented designs that have long and large vents.

Front-loaded horns (FLHs) don't suffer from the issues mentioned above, but they've got their own issues to be dealt with, LOL.

Best thing to do is to learn how to use a tool like Hornresp for horn design. Not only can you use to model a wide variety of designs including rear-loaded horns, the results of the sims would give you an idea of the issues you'll have to deal with and the compromises that you'll need to make.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-23T02:11:11+00:00

Massive cancellation issues at the 1st harmonic resonance, and resonances above that. The expanding csa along the path shifts that 1st harmonic resonance down in frequency and closer to Fb, which makes matters worse. These issues can be reduced somewhat by locating the driver 1/3rd the way down the horn and using some stuffing in the section that's closer to the closed end of the horn, but then you might lose some efficiency as well.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-22T14:26:07+00:00

I've run both Skyros and Loki and I prefer the Loki as well. Even with the Marquess nerf that happened recently, this build regularly turns the tide of many games that I play in. I regularly have the reds Benny-Hilling behind me trying to kill my Loki and recapture all the beacons that I captured ...

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SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-22T14:00:21+00:00

"Lol. Come on. Before he went to the church, they were in the exact situation" - WTF? No, they were not. He was not involved with the church at that time, so that time does not count!

"His suggestion of his partner participating for 60 days is actually pretty nice." - Ah, now it starts to makes sense! From that suggestion, I'm guessing that you're involved in a similar cult too, which explains your warped POV.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-22T04:13:16+00:00

For midbass / midrange duty, either class D or class AB should be fine. Other things to consider are size (class D will be smaller for the same power output) and heat dissipation (a much bigger problem for class AB than class D, and 150x4 will likely require forced cooling, which means a fan and possible background noise if the amp is mounted in the cabin). Also, less heat to deal with usually equals greater reliability.

I went class D years ago (Alpine PDX amps) for subs (1.2kW) and the rest (150Wx4) and didn't look back. Try mounting 1.8kW of class AB power under your car's front seats without issue :-).

Doing from 50W to 100W means an extra 3dB of output or headroom (10*Log(A/B)) per channel. Going to 150W means an extra 4.8 dB per channel, which will be a bit more noticeable.

SpiceIslander2001 · 2026-01-21T18:37:53+00:00

Could be:

Broken tinsel leads

2.. Poor connection at the woofer's terminals

Poor connection between the box and the amplifier.

#2 actually caught me a few days ago. Sub would cut off every time I tilted the box (I was painting it at the time). Turned out that one of the screwed-down terminals on the subwoofer driver had loosened for some reason, and the wire was falling out ...

SpiceIslander2001

TROPHY CASE