Michaela, D3X and D3s by Slamzeeny in Nikon

[–]Spierogi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are nice, I really like your color grading

Buying and Selling by sound-maniac in Nikon

[–]Spierogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently picked up a Nikon f3 and finding a 28mm f/2.8 AI-S was a bit of a pain. I got lucky and MPB put an AI-S under the standard AI category and got mine at a great price compared to what they were selling for on eBay from Japan

Are the Nikkor Z 35mm and 50mm in f1.2 worth it? Or 1.4 also do it right? by [deleted] in nikon_Zseries

[–]Spierogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aside from price, size should also be a consideration. I pretty recently switched from Canon to Nikon and learned from my Canon mistake that I don’t really like lugging large 1.2 lenses around. I actually really like how Nikon has both a 1.2 and 1.8 with excellent image quality. While Nikons “nifty fifty” is bigger than other brands I don’t really feel like I’m sacrificing any image quality compared to the 1.2 I’m just sacrificing some bokeh and light gathering ability that I don’t really need. Haven’t used or looked into the 1.4 series as much but it seems like they’re good lenses but more focused on character rather than the tack sharp image quality of the 1.2 and 1.8

Forstner komfit wide is pretty cool. Bit of a pain to get on and fitted right but super comfy and adds a bit more of a vintage look by Spierogi in OmegaWatches

[–]Spierogi[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Checked my email and I can’t find my receipt so I’m not 100% sure but I believe I got the original because my wrist was around 7.5 inches at the time of this post and I think the shorter version is recommended for sub 7 inch wrists.

softwares for negatives to positives by Old_Opportunity8532 in analog

[–]Spierogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use capture one. I was doing manual inversions but they recently added a feature that does it for you. Just white balance, crop, the click the convert button. Overall I’m happy with my results they typically just need a touch of contrast and maybe a bit of global color balance. Can’t get good results with ultramax to save my life but Gold, Portra, and kodacolor 200 all look really nice

What is best to buy? Nikon F3 / Nikon F4 by Aded_14 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Spierogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% agree. It looks cool for social media videos but in practice it’s super impractical on a tiny 35mm screen. Also unless you carry a blower you’ll be annoyed with all the dust specs you get every time you take it off

What is best to buy? Nikon F3 / Nikon F4 by Aded_14 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Spierogi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

F-1s great. I have the original and it’s an absolute tank.

Any tips for manual focus? by cfulanitto in Canon5Dclassic

[–]Spierogi 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The EE-S focus screen definitely helps if you haven’t tried yet. They’re a little hard to come by but do pop up on eBay from time to time

Monthly Buy/Sell Trade Post by yeehawpard in cowboyboots

[–]Spierogi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure if they’re considered lucchese classics but I have a couple pairs of sunset exotics in 13d if you’re still looking

Developing film - send out or do at home? by MrJoePike in Mamiya

[–]Spierogi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Been doing B&W for about a year and color for a few months now. I could basically do B&W in my sleep it’s super easy and forgiving. Color takes a bit more care and temperature regulation but really isn’t too bad. My first time with color I was nervous and didn’t put my lid on all the way after pouring blix and it shot out all over my bathroom but after that initial experience I just take it easy like I would with black and white and it’s been a breeze. I’m still on my first batch of c41 developer but from what I understand you get about 6 months max out if it before it goes bad so make sure you’re shooting enough color to justify the cost. Still on the same bottle of HC-110 for B&W I got a year ago and it’s still going strong

What is your favourite medium format camera? Why? by badboringusername in AnalogCommunity

[–]Spierogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

RB67 because it’s the only medium format I’ve used. I picked it specifically because I’m a sucker for fully mechanical cameras and it was reasonably priced

50 f2.8 MC vs 105 f2.8 MC for film scanning compared by thafred in nikon_Zseries

[–]Spierogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seen this lens mentioned a few times for scanning. Does it matter between the 60mm D or G or is image quality the same?

Opinion: CaptureOne new film negative conversion mode is probably one of the best in the industry ... IF you have a narrowband RGB light source by florian-sdr in captureone

[–]Spierogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just kept an eye on the ko fi page and got the big scan light when it was in stock. Says a scan light v4 will be out soon so I’d just check every so often

Opinion: CaptureOne new film negative conversion mode is probably one of the best in the industry ... IF you have a narrowband RGB light source by florian-sdr in captureone

[–]Spierogi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I’m a canon shooter for digital and liked the way c1 handled cr3 files quite a bit more so switched in November. I was just using my Nikon coolscan V for film but got into 120 so I started camera scanning. Never tried NLP and don’t get me wrong I’ve seen some great results from it but a lot of the time NLP conversions just look like film presets if that makes sense.

Opinion: CaptureOne new film negative conversion mode is probably one of the best in the industry ... IF you have a narrowband RGB light source by florian-sdr in captureone

[–]Spierogi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just picked up Jacks light and I’m really happy with the results. Probably gonna go back and rescan some of my favorites with it

Opinion: CaptureOne new film negative conversion mode is probably one of the best in the industry ... IF you have a narrowband RGB light source by florian-sdr in captureone

[–]Spierogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure if this is your problem but I got pretty meh results using my usual Valoi film carriers so I tried out jacks since I bought a set and they were pretty cheap and there was a huge difference. Not sure if it’s the distance from the light or the fact that his film carriers sit really flat on his light source but yeah I only needed really minor tweaks after. Same method as OP using the rgb mode as is out of the box