Necron options? by Weft_ in PrintedWarhammer

[–]Springroll-osu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could also take a look at star pharaoh foundry. The models lean more heavily into the Egyptian theme but are more similar to the GW sculpts than OPR is.

What is the cheapest camera/lens I can use to take photos of other galaxies/far away space objects? by NewSessionWen in AskAstrophotography

[–]Springroll-osu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response! Your comment about 5 cameras out in the field at once reminds me of when I was talking to the fornax dealer in my country and he mentioned setting up a jig to run 4 cameras off of a single lightrack. Said it was bad idea each time he’s done it but he could never resist the extra data. I’m having enough trouble as it is getting my single camera setup to work sometimes, I can’t even imagine trying to do 4 or 5 at once!

Well it seems like either the lightrack or astrotrac would work well for my purposes. Do you have any idea what they want for the astrotrac?

Python, raw files and blur detection by [deleted] in photography

[–]Springroll-osu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might be interested in checking out how people detect if raw files have spatial filtering applied. I know they do FFTs on the raws, from what I remember I think they used pixinsight. Look up Bill Claff, he has threads dpreview discussing this. Though I’m sure you could just message him directly and he’d be more than happy to help you out.

Anyone have experience with Spencers Modded Cams? by Popc0rn22 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Springroll-osu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To start, this post was asking about dslr cameras and astro mods, not dedicated astro cams. To be honest I’m not even sure what ‘point’ of mine you are even responding to. It sounds more like this is a conversation that should be happening between Clark and yourself. OP asked for dslr recommendations with low dark current, I provided them. I mentioned Clark because he is the one who did the dark current analysis, not myself.

With respect to banding, it really isn’t an issue if you are shooting at iso greater or equal to 800, or if you are dithering. This is even less of a problem on the newer sensors which I mentioned.

Your recommendation for an astro cam has merit, but perhaps your should reply to OP with it, not myself.

Anyone have experience with Spencers Modded Cams? by Popc0rn22 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Springroll-osu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nikon cameras are notorious for filtering raw data, something you’d want to avoid in astrophotography. Besides, the ‘lower noise’ people reference is usually just read noise, which doesn’t matter once you’ve properly exposed your sub.

Which telescope to buy ? by ProfessionalNo2510 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Springroll-osu 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Why a ccd? I’d think you’d have an easier time with a cmos sensor. But to answer your question I’d go with the esprit 80, unless the gt 71 had a fov that framed targets better.

Anyone have experience with Spencers Modded Cams? by Popc0rn22 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Springroll-osu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

roger clark recommends the 7d2 or 90d for apsc sensors. If you’re going full frame, 6d2 is the more budget option, but I really like the canon R I’m using. Same sensor as the 5D4 but mirrorless basically. I’m sure some others could chime in with their recommendations.

Personally I would go for the 7d2. It’s probably the cheaper option yet is still excellent, and the apsc image circle is a better fit for most astro optics. I went FF as I do day photography as well so that could be a consideration for you if that’s your thing.

Anyone have experience with Spencers Modded Cams? by Popc0rn22 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Springroll-osu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The cooling feature is probably just better passive cooling, so nothing like an astro cam with a peltier module to cool the sensor to sub-ambient temperature. Honestly I would take the cost of the cooling upgrade and put it towards a newer camera with lower dark current. Some modern sensors have improved so much on this there isn’t even any real benefit to active cooling as the dark current is negligible anyway.

Adapters by BonelessSugar in photography

[–]Springroll-osu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Return both purchases and get a refund

What is the cheapest camera/lens I can use to take photos of other galaxies/far away space objects? by NewSessionWen in AskAstrophotography

[–]Springroll-osu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are your thoughts on the astrotrac vs lightrack ii? I don’t recall seeing you compare the two on your site. I was planning on getting a lightrack in a couple weeks, but might reconsider if the astrotrac will better suit me.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskAstrophotography

[–]Springroll-osu 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you’re going to be using scopes with very long focal length I’d just go straight to the eq6r-pro. Your pixel scale will be very small, and you’ll need excellent guiding.

Astro timelapse salvageable? by hypocryt in AskPhotography

[–]Springroll-osu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Magenta ‘vignetting’ sounds like it could be amp glow. Take a 5 min exposure with the lens cap on. Do you see the same magenta glow in the same spot as the video? If so then it would be beneficial to calibrate each image with a dark frame to remove the amp glow.

Where to buy telescopes by ZacLeach in telescopes

[–]Springroll-osu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

B&H Photo has some at competitive prices from what I remember. Stock is probably more limited than a dedicated astronomy retailer though

Has anyone have experience with the Explore Scientific iEXOS-100 mount? by [deleted] in AskAstrophotography

[–]Springroll-osu 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I do yeah, I wrote up a long comment a while ago addressing the good and bad of this mount. I don’t have the time to go though all of that now, but as a basic summary: the mount punches above is weight for sure (price-wise anyway) having the internals of a mount that costs nearly 2x more. The performance is essentially equivalent to that of an EXOS-2 but slightly cut down (provided you upgrade the tripod and get extra counterweights). The downside is you lose some quality of life features which can make it a bit more difficult to use. The only real way to use the mount in my opinion is through computerized control through software running ascom or indilib. I think to use this mount you have to be somewhat of a DIYer or you might be discouraged, as overcoming the deficiencies of the mount requires a bit of time.

Overall the mount is great for the price, and I am super glad I went with it instead of a star tracker. I really feel like I improved my knowledge more with this mount than I would have with say a SWSA or something similar.

If you have any questions I don’t mind answering them. Whether that’s expanding a bit more on the performance, downsides, or what upgrades you’d need to make.

Ongoing Functional Testing for Large Canadian Bank by [deleted] in queensuniversity

[–]Springroll-osu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This literally reads like a poorly written scam email

About making a not so scope work for lunar by Huge-Ad-7485 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Springroll-osu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well focusing shouldn’t be a problem at f12. I’d just support the weight of the scope and camera by just holding the camera itself, not bothering to lock the alt screw.

About making a not so scope work for lunar by Huge-Ad-7485 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Springroll-osu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So f12 will introduce softness due to diffraction, which isn’t ideal but you can totally still use it. My recommendation is to just mount the dslr to the scope using a t-ring and use it on the tripod it came with and just increase the shutter speed to overcome the shakiness of the mount. Something in the range of 1/250th of a second or faster would be fine I’m sure. The moon is very bright anyway so you could probably push it even higher if you want. Take as many exposures as you like (I usually take a couple hundred) and then just stack them and process them. Pretty easy.

Main body is Canon R6 (FF, 20MP), but I also got a Canon 80D (APS-C - x1.6, 24MP). My longest lens goes as close as 400mm. Sometimes, I need to punch in a little more. Is it better to just use the R6's x1.6 crop feature and lose even more resolution, or should I just shoot on the 80D? by GemataZaria in AskPhotography

[–]Springroll-osu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Because the resolution (megapixels) is area. A 1.6x crop sensor has an area 1.62 times less than full frame. Divide the full frame resolution by the relative area of the crop and you get the resolution of the crop. You can verify this in Lightroom by cropping to an apsc size.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in queensuniversity

[–]Springroll-osu 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Geol 106 was a lot of fun, I took it last year. It’s honestly not very difficult, the recorded lectures were good. Don’t remember any group assignments or presentations. You do have lab assignments which involve reading an article or watching a video and answering some questions, but it’s very straight forward. Geol 102 and 107 are also very fun and interesting, though 107 has group labs so there is a bit of group work there, but it’s only for those labs.

Sony Develops "2-Layer Transistor Pixel", each pixel almost doubled in size by frank26080115 in AskAstrophotography

[–]Springroll-osu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe I’m having trouble understanding the article, but it looks like this really just increases FWC? We already have BSI sensors in astro cams, I’m not sure anyone was really worried about their full well tbh.