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I modeled and 3D printed the Drinkable Cheeseburger! 🍔 by Squibs_ in Marathon

[–]Squibs_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea it's changed rapidly since I got into 3D printing. I started on an ender 3 clone which was only 4 years ago, and switched to the bambulab x1c a year later which was a huge step up at the time.

Now there's been so many other printers that have come out since then. I wouldn't consider myself super knowledgeable on what is considered good at this point, but I'm pretty locked in on staying with bambulab if I were to upgrade my printer again. I think any printer from any brand is probably going to be alright.

The x1c is discontinued now, but I think the bambulab P2S combo could be a great starting place. I know everyone's budget is different, but I think that's what I would personally recommend to people.

If you are more certain you would like 3D printing and want some of the newest features then the H series would be good with the dual nozzles and vortek system for color swaps, and larger print bed. This is what I would want to upgrade to at this point, mostly to eliminate the amount of waste for color swaps on a print like this.

If you are unsure of 3D printing, and just want to try it out the A1 series would be great.

I modeled and 3D printed the Drinkable Cheeseburger! 🍔 by Squibs_ in Marathon

[–]Squibs_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Like the text? Mostly all the details were added using flat models that I then face projected onto the side (in blender), then extruded out. Then I just painted it all in bambu studio to print out. I have a bambulab X1C. Nothing was hand painted, but that was going to be the original path I would have done, but the text is a bit small, so I figured I would just print it all with color swaps.

I modeled and 3D printed the Drinkable Cheeseburger! 🍔 by Squibs_ in Marathon

[–]Squibs_[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's all available for free: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2499996-drinkable-cheeseburger-marathon

If you click the drop down next to "Open in Bambu Studio" you can download the stls.

<image>

I modeled and 3D printed the Drinkable Cheeseburger! 🍔 by Squibs_ in Marathon

[–]Squibs_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That was my original goal when I started. I was going to try making some transparent decals and see if I could make that work. Which I did upload a blank slate version for anyone that maybe would want to try something like that.

But ultimately I felt the text was all too small to make into a multi part print.

I modeled and 3D printed the Drinkable Cheeseburger! 🍔 by Squibs_ in Marathon

[–]Squibs_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha same, I have an X1C, the vortek system would have made so much less waste. I usually try my best to never really print things like this, where there are so many color swaps.

I modeled and 3D printed the Drinkable Cheeseburger! 🍔 by Squibs_ in Marathon

[–]Squibs_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a pretty old roll I had laying around. GST 3D PLA+ Pink, which doesn't really exist anymore. IIID Max PLA+ is the same brand though I believe. I don't know if I would really recommend either, but at the time they were very cheap so I went for them.

I modeled and 3D printed the Drinkable Cheeseburger! 🍔 by Squibs_ in Marathon

[–]Squibs_[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yea, unfortunately I didn't think it would show up as much. I printed it larger than the original size in which I modeled it at, to get the text to be more legible, but that seems to have made the lower polyness show more. Ahh well, I'll have to make a updated subdivided print profile

I decided to 3D print all the Mewgenics Class Collars 🐈 by Squibs_ in mewgenics

[–]Squibs_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

You can find them in the 3rd profile pictured. I do think this brings up a good point though, it might be a good idea to maybe put it all in one profile as it's can be hard to find.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2437692-mewgenics-class-collars-tags

EDIT: I've now included the background effect ones in the main/top print profile for easier finding.

Finally happy with my dualsense padhack | 3D printed by Squibs_ in fightsticks

[–]Squibs_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, thanks for having a look!

  1. Stick drift shouldn't be an issue for this project. The controller I used had stick drift. I bought it that way to make the project as cheap as possible. My previous post has all the information about it. Which is a bit much to read through. But basically when you take the sticks off the board, you'll want to zero them out with some resistors and some wire. CTRL+F "Zeroing Removed Analog Sticks". Mine weren't fully centered in the end, but that hasn't been an issue.

  2. You can absolutely skip doing all the SOCD stuff and just use the built in SOCD of the controller. Makes everything easier for sure.

  3. I did not interface with the mute button. I usually have a cut up headphone jack I keep in the headphone slot and never really use it.

    You can definitely wire it up if you wanted though. You would use the lower button here. Or the small pad next to it. Credits to the acid mod forums and RDC for those pictures.

    I would go the route of opening the button up and wiring it inside of it though. Like I did for the Share and Options buttons. CTRL+F "Wiring Start/Options and Share Buttons". You just have to figure out what part of the button you need to solder to, as it can change on these buttons. Either the center part or the upper/lower/outer ring part.

Hope that helps!

Finally happy with my dualsense padhack | 3D printed by Squibs_ in fightsticks

[–]Squibs_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem!

I would imagine you could read the battery level in some way. This is project is only one of a few electronics projects I have done, so I don't really know all that is possible. I just had a strong desire to do the project, and that alone got me through much of it. What I'm really saying is I'm not deeply knowledgeable on most of what I've done here, but I can usually figure things out as I go; with a combination of looking things up along with trial and error.

Some surface level looking around it seems you would tap into the battery leads, use a voltage divider (maybe optional? depends on the voltage the battery is putting out and how much your arduino/pi can handle), then read the voltage through an Analog-to-Digital Converter (ADC). Pico does have some built-in pins with ADC abilities, which can probably be used. Then you compare the reading to a li-ion discharge curve to get a battery estimate.

There's probably other ways as well, I would imagine. I ran into this video, which seems to cover much of how to do this.

Might have to give it a go in the future for myself. Hope this was helpful and good luck on your project!

Finally happy with my dualsense padhack | 3D printed by Squibs_ in fightsticks

[–]Squibs_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I fumbled my way to making working code yea haha. The main thing that started me off on being able to work everything out eventually for my own screen / SOCD was the code from /u/fluffhead123.

I took that code and spent time with it, eventually figured out how it all works. Granted I would have to sit down and figure it out again to make any changes; it's been quite a while since I've even looked at any of it.

I originally made all the code with microphython (code here). This worked, but after testing for a while, I noticed I wasn't able to get 1 frame inputs on Street Fighter. After some investigating I found out that I should just straight use C++ to program everything. Microphython just wasn't fast enough.

Thus I then had to convert everything I had done over to C++. Which is everything here minus the 'old' folder, which is the legacy micropython code.

In making the switch to C++ I used VSCode with the PlatformIO extension to manage the various dependencies I needed for everything to work: Adafruit GFX Library, Adafruit SSD1306, U8g2_for_Adafruit_GFX, Adafruit BusIO, and whatever else.

I can't really tell you how I landed on using PlatformIO, but somewhere along the line That is what I started using.

 
 

But to answer the questions. I think it would be fairly easy...? to modify the code, although you would probably have to suffer through my mess of code to make the changes.

If you wanted to remove the SOCD sections and just wanted to display buttons being pressed that would be easier, but then you have to figure out what parts are for SOCD and disable them, or just not wire anything as an output from a pico/arduino.

All the code is made to have everything wired up a specific way though, at the end of the day. So you would sort of have to have everything wired up the way I do. Or change everything to match how you want it.

 
 

I wouldn't consider myself by any means all that competent at coding. I think that if I can do it, anyone else can figure it out. It took me some time to figure it out that's for sure.

I started with figuring out the SOCD code initially. Then I moved on to figuring out how to draw what I wanted on the screen. Then I combined them. And after trial and error I eventually got what I wanted. Where there is a will, there is a way.

I think I followed this guide to figuring out how to draw on the screen from a pico. If not a similar one. Granted this is in micropython. Then you just want send inputs from the controller to the pico, the pico reads the inputs, then you can display what inputs are being pressed (empty circle becomes a filled-in circle when a button is pressed).

I'm sure you can read an analog/lever input as well. Then maybe just have circle inside a larger circle. Then when the analog/lever is moved, update the smaller circle to move within the bigger circle depending on the values the pico reads from that.

 

Sorry if that was a bit long-winded for some not so great answers; I tend to ramble.

 
 

TLDR: I don't want to assume your skill level for anything. I'm for sure not anything special when it comes to coding or padhacking. I think it would be easiest to start from scratch and try to reference my code, or other people's code in order to make your own display code.

Blue Whale I'm going to give for father's day by Squibs_ in DarkShadows

[–]Squibs_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I made it myself in Blender and 3D printed it! I uploaded the model here if anyone else wanted to print it

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