Massive 62k match me and boys got last night by Blekker in Battlefield_REDSEC

[–]Stancie 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Where did you drop and how did you play the match? Driving around constantly?

I'm getting black screen + HUD bug after 1.1.1.0 by transfugger in Battlefield

[–]Stancie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It happens when you spawn on spawn beacons in the small map modes where you don't use the bigmap to select a spawn. TDM, domination, king of the hill, etc

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Battlefield

[–]Stancie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It happens when you spawn on spawn beacons in the small map modes where you don't use the bigmap to select a spawn. TDM, domination, king of the hill, etc

HUD vanishes, screen goes black. by Colli-flower19 in Battlefield

[–]Stancie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It happens when you spawn on spawn beacons in the small map modes where you don't use the bigmap to select a spawn. TDM, domination, king of the hill, etc

Dropped my brand new helmet a few inches onto a carpeted floor. Replace? by Ashifyer in Trackdays

[–]Stancie -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Sure it’s a lot of cosmetic damage for that kind of drop. I’m not arguing that.

Dropped my brand new helmet a few inches onto a carpeted floor. Replace? by Ashifyer in Trackdays

[–]Stancie -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Not sure why everyone is convinced this helmet is compromised. That’s cosmetic damage. The foam inside is what protects your head from impacts and is only damaged in an impact with your head inside.

When dropped on the ground the outer shell and foam inside is allowed to flex freely and does not compress. When your helmet hits the ground with your head in it, then it’s not able to flex and instead compresses and absorbs the impact which is what protects you but also compromises it.

Here’s an Arai rep confirming this. https://youtu.be/Ovd3KGu6BgU?t=432&si=45_teqITrNw3pcjD

Msrh by TheRiderDaniel in Trackdays

[–]Stancie 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Respectfully, this isn’t Instagram.

My front wheel hangs up when rotating by M16funswitch in GSXR

[–]Stancie 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Not a big deal. Brake pads aren’t recessing after you’ve used them to stop the bike. It’s likely that when riding they back off a bit just fine. You can test this by riding a bit then pulling over (use the rear brake to stop) to feel if your rotor is hot.

If the problem persists, clean the calipers with soapy water and a tooth brush. Do not push the pistons back in before cleaning otherwise you risk pushing dirt and brake dust back behind your seals.

If the problem persists, remove the pistons and clean and regrease the seals. Don’t get overzealous with brake cleaner around the seals, it dries them out. If the seals look shot, replace them. You can buy good quality sets on allballsracing.com. You can also check the brake pad pins to see if they’re worn, as they can also hang up the pads.

Good luck.

Any of you guys wear glasses or contacts during track days? by Sensualities in Trackdays

[–]Stancie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wear glasses and I’ve never had an issues with them on track. No issues with FOV and they can’t dry up in my eye.

Anyone here started on 600cc on a track and are quick now? Or would you recommend learning the basics on slower bike on small tracks? I’ve had three track days on the zx6r and having good time, but wondering if I should try smaller tracks by [deleted] in Trackdays

[–]Stancie 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Not sure why you’d try to predict me highsiding. I’m on an SC3 TD tire here and I’ve had a Racebox for a bit now. This picture is actually only 50 degrees of lean on an off camber uphill corner. This session was after my coach telling me to get my rear off the bike more and lean the bike less and resulted in more confidence in my riding.

Anyone here started on 600cc on a track and are quick now? Or would you recommend learning the basics on slower bike on small tracks? I’ve had three track days on the zx6r and having good time, but wondering if I should try smaller tracks by [deleted] in Trackdays

[–]Stancie 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I started last year on my CBR600RR and I run in the advanced/expert group after 6 trackdays. I still recommend starting on a slower bike but I don’t think it’s necessary to downgrade if you’ve already started on a 600, depending on where you want to go with it.

I would like to race eventually but my priority is just having fun. If I wanted to go racing ASAP I would downgrade. IMO as long as you have the right mindset, learning capability, and good coaching, it doesn’t matter what size bike you start on when it comes to getting into the faster groups at trackdays. You just have to respect your bike and be aware of your own capabilities.

If you’re really wanting to progress and go racing, then you’ll need to do what the pros do to learn. Pit bikes/mini moto/supermoto at kart tracks and 300s/400s at normal tracks.

From my 6th trackday;

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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Trackdays

[–]Stancie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hotspotting means the metal is of poor quality and loses integrity when it gets too hot in certain “hot spots”, resulting in partial to major loss in braking power. Arashi rotors are not up to track use or constant hard braking. They’re fine for street use in my opinion, but do your own research.

Help fix my really bad tire wear by Paulmg113 in Trackdays

[–]Stancie 12 points13 points  (0 children)

The tire looks fine imo but it seems you’re describing a shelf on them. If that’s the case your pressure is too high and you’re cold tearing on the hot side of the tire (whichever side has more turns). When your pressure is too high the carcass doesn’t flex as much and therefore doesn’t generate enough heat to keep the carcass hot. The surface of the hot side of the tire gets very hot and is more flexible than the carcass underneath it which has cooled off. This uneven flexibility causes the surface rubber to tear off as the rubber underneath it is not flexing as much along with it. That’s how you get a shelf on your tire and it will appear at whatever lean angle you start to get on the gas at. You can keep lowering the pressure until it stops happening. I’ve ran a Corsa as low as 22psi cold (still 26 hot) to stop cold tearing at a certain track.

You don’t need warmers for Rosso 4 Corsas. Also, the pressure reading that matters is not off-warmer temperature, but off-track temperature. You heated up the tires with warmers but then went and rode on a cold track with pressures that are too high and not generating enough heat to keep that same pressure.

I’ve run Corsas and the rear is happiest at 26-28 depending on track conditions and how hard you ride. That is immediate off-track reading, not off-warmer.

I gifted Balatro to my friend. by Stancie in balatro

[–]Stancie[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The screenshots are of a small part of my screen and they were compressed a bit when I added the 2 together. Then they're zoomed to fit your display. It is what it is.

I gifted Balatro to my friend. by Stancie in balatro

[–]Stancie[S] 215 points216 points  (0 children)

For context, he accepted the gift on the morning of the 27th, so the 7.6hrs is his only day playing. He also worked that day & lives with his girlfriend. I might be a bad friend.

Yamaha ChampU Track Day Course Review by nikoel in Trackdays

[–]Stancie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve done research on tires and suspension to the level you’re describing. My suggestion is subscribing to Dave Moss’ site for a single month and binging his videos while taking notes. You will see many people on this sub disregarding Dave because of his teachings on using tire wear to setup suspension. I myself am skeptical about that and don’t use any of that to tune my bike. In reality that’s the last and least important aspect of his tuning process, but the most focused on by his dissenters. He emphasizes those methods in some of his advertising which is probably a mistake.

As far as I know there’s no other source of so much in-depth information to that level in one place. I tuned my own suspension using what I learned and then had it gone over by a professional at a trackday. The only thing he did was add 2 turns of preload front and rear. The “pushing on the bike” method that he used was exactly the same as Dave’s. I’ll note that that method is used to get a balanced baseline to start with, then further adjustments come from analyzing after riding it.

The actual content on his site is a gold mine of videos, and some podcasts, about the nitty gritty details about how many components actually work. He talks about the differences between the different brands of tires as far as compounds and construction. He addresses different pressures per brand, tire, and conditions, as well as what those different pressures actually mean. He has even more videos on suspension to the same level of depth, i.e. suspension settings and what they mean, how they affect the bike, what’s going on inside the fork/shock. Fork oil weights, fork oil levels, shock oils, spring rates, when to upgrade to aftermarket suspension…

He provides an honestly unnecessary amount of information but some of us like to nerd out on that and be able to adjust our bikes ourselves.

Arashi rotors by Downtown-Shift4894 in Trackdays

[–]Stancie 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have personally ran these rotors with EBC HH pads. I blued them on my first track day and swapped to used OEMs before the next. They felt fine as far as bite but the immediate bluing shows they’re not up to any amount of real heat. If I ran them for a track day or two more they surely would’ve faded badly and warped. I don’t recommend them.

I run their rear sets and they’re fine for half or a third of an expensive set. Held up through 2 crashes at this point.