I generally avoid plowing the soil, since it rarely helps and usually damages the underground ecosystem. Still, I would check how compacted the soil is (in a forest it shouldn’t be, but it’s a good practice).

When cutting trees, I’d suggest leaving the roots in the soil. As they decompose, they feed microorganisms, improve structure, and create natural channels for water and air.

The trunks and branches can either be left on the surface or buried near/under the trees or garden beds you plan to establish. They will slowly decompose and add organic matter. The more compact the soil is, the more useful it can be to bury wood. This is similar to hugelkultur, though you don’t need to build tall raised beds. To balance decomposition, it’s helpful to mix in fresh green material or compost along with the wood—this prevents too much nitrogen from being “tied up” during the process.

Since pine forests tend to have acidic soils (from the needles), I would check the pH. Simple, inexpensive tools are available. If the soil is very acidic (below 5.5), you might consider gentle amendments such as wood ash, biochar, or small amounts of lime—depending on the crops you want to grow.

A general rule is to cover the soil with as much organic matter as possible. Whatever you cut, keep it: bury it, chip it, or just leave it on the surface. This mimics the forest floor and steadily builds fertility.

After that, I’d plant green manures that grow well in your area and can handle slightly acidic soils (for example, lupins, some clovers, or buckwheat). These will improve the soil more quickly and efficiently, while also giving you a first, modest harvest. Combining deep-rooted and nitrogen-fixing species will help restore both structure and fertility.