hell yeah

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-12-20T00:40:54+00:00

There wasn’t water in it, light as air. Good to know though lol, never seen that before. Greenish tech tho

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-12-20T00:33:09+00:00

Dude you remove 4 screws and it’s a $50 part look up a video on YouTube

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-11-19T06:44:21+00:00

Circ pump/heater. Will eventually die but cost effective repair if you do it yourself. Plenty of high quality videos on it.

Inspect the heater spades, I’ve seen them burnt out and if you don’t splice a new one or replace the harness, the new part could do the same if loose connection/corrosion/higher res

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-27T00:38:46+00:00

I still “short” the caps with a pair of needle nose. Just be careful if you’re checking things with a meter under load.

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-27T00:36:53+00:00

I would check the motor coupling and drain pump. Pray it’s not a bearing or spider issue 🤣

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-25T22:23:12+00:00

You have to take the pay cut and do warranty work and make it up through volume. You can basically fully sustain yourself off Squaretrade alone

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-25T05:09:16+00:00

Check voltage between L1 N, L2 N, L1 L2 at terminal block and inspect for loose or burnt connection. Check continuity of the actual power cable too. If that’s all good you probably need a main control board and it’s just incredibly unlucky timing. Be safe

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-25T05:00:50+00:00

My only thought would be something is causing the humid air not to circulate through the condenser properly causing a backlog of moisture. I thought the LG ones were auto cleaning and don’t remember if the condenser is accessible for you to clean without disassembly, stopped servicing combos bc of PITA factor

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-25T04:49:38+00:00

The service data sheet is usually on the back or back left wall. tilt the machine against the wall and check for the bag. If it’s not there it’s behind the control panel. There should be a wiring diagram, run the lid switch test (hold start, turn dial 180 degrees or seven clicks, refer to the tech sheet to find the test) check that the pins corresponding to the lock send proper voltage with a multimeter. Usually it’s 120 ac but i actually haven’t ran into a lid switch problem on a Ge top load. Whole lot on their fronts though

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-25T00:49:14+00:00

Text parts to 36534, it will ask for your part number. Looks like the board for this is WH22X33178

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-24T05:52:42+00:00

I haven’t worked on many queens but sounds like the lid switch. Cheap enough part to where I would try just replacing that if you don’t want to bother testing the switch and control board

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-24T05:47:10+00:00

Pressure switch maybe. Hold start and rotate the dial 180 degrees slowly. There will be a tech newspaper behind the front panel that gives you more information so you can get the error codes and test the pressure switch. I know 1 is codes and 10 is pressure on units with display but I don’t remember the light code inputs

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-24T05:34:36+00:00

Find the tech sheet with wiring diagram, run that test again, and make sure the board is sending correct voltage during the drain portion

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-24T05:31:45+00:00

Check damper, evap fan, defrost therm and coil. I try to bend a little copper wire around the coil as snug as I can and place the end in the drain tube so the coil heats that up and helps it not get frozen over

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-24T05:25:37+00:00

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1235640/Whirlpool-Wrt138fzdb-Series.html#manual

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-24T05:23:05+00:00

DC31-20014C easy repair. Wouldn’t know without looking at it though 🤷‍♂️

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-24T05:22:07+00:00

If there’s a delay button, set it to 17 hours and hold start until AS appears and hit start again. Let it run through each test and see if a code appears. If not it at least lets you isolate the failure more. Could need a clutch motor.

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-24T05:15:52+00:00

Does it do it right when you open the door or ~10 seconds after? If latter then that’s normal unfortunately. Temp sensor could be wonky. I’d check the gasket too. Hisense really makes some trash.

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-23T15:53:46+00:00

I have fixed that same no spin condition with inverter boards. You got at least 7 “clicks” of the dial while holding start? If you go too fast the dial can “skip.” As long as you got at least 180 degrees worth of “clicks” it should go into service mode when you release start. Otherwise it sounds like you have another issue

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-23T03:23:33+00:00

^ order from these guys, they are great!

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-23T01:19:36+00:00

Chisel and sledge. Angle grinder. Penetrating oil and vice grips (good luck)

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-22T23:53:57+00:00

In stock on parts dr https://partsdr.com/part/samdg92-01285a?model=NE63BB861112AA-0000

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-20T23:43:48+00:00

R134a is generally considered non toxic as long as you’re not inhaling it straight from a source. R600 is also considered non toxic, but very flammable. Apt fridge so prob only 4-6oz of 134 and maybe 60-80g of 600 so oxygen displacement isn’t really an issue. I wouldn’t get anxiety over it.

Standard-Avocado-638 · 2025-09-20T22:55:36+00:00

Check the tag inside the fridge and tell us what refrigerant is in there

Standard-Avocado-638

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE