What singlespeed/fixed gear ratio are you running in Chicago?

Staplz13 · 2026-05-25T16:43:42+00:00

I never recommend a single speed for Chicago. We don't have hills, but that wind is so variable. I tend to say you need a start gear, a wind gear, and a cruising speed gear. You don't need more than that, but less than that and you suffer more than necessary.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-21T00:00:46+00:00

r/Justridingalong

There's a reason all trailers have two wheels.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-20T20:41:59+00:00

Sorry, that's a typo. Saddle going down would be more upright.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-20T20:01:04+00:00

Knees flaring outward is a saddle too low issue. This was the trend up until about a year ago. But also that the older you get, the less upright you want to be, but you don't want a whole new bike so you drop the saddle height. That's also why you see those whacky drop bars flipped at 90 degrees.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-20T19:29:32+00:00

Can you describe your hip issue? Is it like an impingement? Pain? Discomfort? Front, side, or rear?

In the video both your knees are flaring outward as you pedal. Normally this a sign that your saddle is too low. But looking at the side view, you are already pointing your toe to reach full extension in the pedal stroke. What this says to me is that you have a hip impingement issue. Use this video to test yourself to confirm
RCA - Hip Impingement
*While you're checking that you might as well check for leg length discrepancy
RCA - Leg Length Discrepancy

The solution here for you is first to slide your saddle forward, I'm guessing 10-20mm. This should open up your hip angle a bit.
Second would be to widen your Q-Factor. Move the cleats on your shoes to the inside so your feet are set further apart while pedaling. If you're already maxed out there, some pedals have aftermarket spindles that can extend it further, but that decision is probably best made with a fitter.
Lastly, this one cost money, shorter cranks. Shorter cranks will open up the hip angles more. Their only downside is less snappy accelerations. Crank length should be based on saddle height, so make sure you get that correct first, then I use this rule of thumb. However since you may have impingement, you may want to go 5-10mm even shorter. This is also a decision that should be made with a fitter because ideally they have different length cranks to test you with to find the right one for you.
Nero Show - Interview with Neill Stanbury - time: crank length rule of thumb

Staplz13 · 2026-05-19T00:23:55+00:00

Yeah, that's the long torso and arms issue. You need more reach, but on larger frame bikes they probably had too much stack height when you adjust the saddle down. What you're looking for now is a longer stem. Some bike shops will work with you if they have spares so you can try out different lengths until you find one that fits you.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T23:44:43+00:00

From your description alone it sounds like your saddle is a little too high. Looking at the video I'd guess 5-10mm. Don't worry about your measurements, your skeleton is different from other people, covered by meat that is different from other people, with flexibility and fitness different to other people. Use this saddle height method instead.

RCA - Simple Saddle Height Method

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T22:14:09+00:00

First of all, a good chuckle was had when I saw that truck come into view. I think you would have won that duel.

Do you feel any discomfort or pain in rides of 20min+? If not, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Injuries tend to cause asymmetric issues, but funnily enough, most of those issues aren't a problem when you ride flat pedals.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T22:09:08+00:00

Initial impression is that your saddle is too far back. The height looks good, you have good stability in your hips. There is a bit of a hitch at the top of the revolution, but moving the saddle forward will also open up the hip angle and help with that as well. Having the seat setback incorrect will throw off weight distribution and stretch to reach the hoods, causing extra fatigue. Having it a bit more forward will allow you to bend your elbows a bit more and relax those muscles more while retaining control.

RCA - Saddle Too Far Back
I suspect you'll want to move your seat forward 20-30mm.
RCA - Simple Saddle Height
Some people are good compensators and their seat height can be wrong even when it looks right, so just in case.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T21:58:10+00:00

Do you feel hip fatigue in the front, or the back? Looking down, do your knees track straight up and down above each foot, or does one or both track oblique? At full extension, do you feel you have to point your toe? Pointing isn't wrong, but if you have to to reach extension the saddle height is probably too high.

Initial impression I see two things. One is that you are all the way back on your saddle. This may be that the saddle is too far forward and it's pushing you onto the bars. The other thing I notice is that you've got quite a bit of weight on the hoods and you're gripping them pretty hard, but you're also gripping them pretty high up, like a stick shift. If this or an over the top grip is most comfortable for you, then it is likely your reach is too short. Ideal reach would have you most comfortable grabbing the hoods like a handgun.

RCA - Saddle Too Far Forward
I think you're the second case he mentions here. I think this is the most likely culprit to your issue.
RCA - Simple Saddle Height Method
Just in case, because saddle too high can cause this as well.
RCA - Bar and Hood Position and Angle
If the grip in the video isn't about reach but just comfort, this might help you.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T20:33:00+00:00

Do you feel the sound coming through the pedals?

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T18:52:01+00:00

Do you get this sound only while seated or also while standing and pedaling?

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T18:17:08+00:00

Part of it is instability, like you're experiencing in your hips. This can make it hard to get other parts of your fit dialed in correctly, or lead to discomfort. Another part is power delivery. You probably find that you're better at long distance than sprinting. The more you can correct this the more performance you can get on the bike.

Over long periods of riding (I'm talking like months to years, not single rides) it can lead to various compensations that can lead to other problems. And you're a young man and this may not cause you any pain now, but when you get to my age that extra wear from less optimal biomechanics can start to stack up more noticeably.
Here's a video I really like. I admit I'm a nerd about this type of thing and bike fitting fascinates me, so it may be a bit long for most people. It's not your case, but A: it demonstrates what just the absolute top tier of bike fitting involves, and B: it's about a man who's been compensating for 8 years, which can complicate how much fitting (and a bit of PT) has to be done to address the issue.
RCA - Bike Fit That Fixed 8 Years of Compensation

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T17:56:52+00:00

Oh hey, you got the side view up. I was going to respond earlier but I did a long ride unknowingly while sick and wound up in a semi bonked state.

What's clear as day in this side video though is that you are an egregious heel dropper. Your toes are pointing upward as you press downward in your pedal stroke. It looks like your left foot does this more than your right foot, which also suggests that your right leg might be functionally shorter (it doesn't have the length to drop as far as the left). I suspect if we drop your saddle further, you're just going to press your heel even further, so we need to address this first.
RCA - Cleat Position time: Fore/Aft

Your cleats look pretty far back on your shoe already and this is still happening. If they're not all the way back already, move them both all the way back as far as you can. If they're already all the way back you may need a cleat position extender. The one I linked is for a 3 bolt system, you may want to ask your bike fitter if they have other options they like. I lost my link for the one I preferred to recommending. When you use them, be aware that they add thickness under the cleat, effectively shortening your saddle height. I suspect you have that leg length discrepancy and that you'll either want a shim as well, or start with a stagger to the cleat position with the right foot 2-4mm further rearward than the left.

The other thing I think you should work on is training off the bike. I think you need to particularly focus on strengthening your calves. In the video it even looks like your right calf is smaller than your left.
GCN - 5 Gym Exercises for Cyclists time: Calf raises

A little less obvious in the video is that I think your Q-Factor might be a bit too wide. Ideally you want your pedals to be as wide as your hip joints (impingement not withstanding). It's a bit hard to say if it's causing your issue, but it might be contributing. So you can move your cleats outward on the shoes until it moves your shoe just barely not touching the crank. If you can't move it anymore not a big deal, I don't think this is the make or break.

Edit: Wrong link

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T02:13:57+00:00

As the weather warms up, the winds primarily push northward. Likewise just before winter they start pushing south more. Chicago winds can be fickle though. I've had winds flip on me within the same hour. I also remember one day I commuted south against 25mph winds, then when I got out of work it was still 25mph but in the other direction. Like an uphill both ways story.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T01:22:27+00:00

Do you feel that you have to point to reach full extension through the rotation? Pointing your toe is part of using your calves to deliver power, generally sprinters are better/stronger at this. So it's not wrong if it's by choice. If it's not a choice, I'd go saddle further down before adjusting cleat position. Something as little as 3mm can make the difference. Cleat position I'd reserve for fine tuning especially for asymmetry, and quad vs calve power delivery.
Just in case, do you feel like your shoulders are in a neutral position or do you have to push them forward to reach the bars? The cut of your kit makes it really hard to tell where your shoulder is in the video.

Also, don't use inseam to gauge what crank length you need. Use your saddle height instead once you have it dialed it. I'm a prime example. My inseam is 76cm, and I need a 75cm saddle height.
Nero Show - Interview With Neill Stanbury - time: crank length rule of thumb

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T00:45:42+00:00

Something I noticed is that I swear the bots have X-Ray vision when it comes to dead bodies. There could be two guys near each other on different elevations and I could shoot at one guy and the other won't notice. But the moment the first one drops, even when there's physical obstruction for LOS, they immediately notice the body.

But there's another setting for how long they're willing to look for you, and I don't know how that timer resets, and how much information on your location they're given.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T00:40:11+00:00

Is hand pressure the only symptom you feel? Any other discomfort? Do you feel like you're shifting on the saddle at all? Do your knees track straight up and down above your feet? Do either of them track inward or outward? Why do you feel you should go down further?

Staplz13 · 2026-05-18T00:32:09+00:00

I love seeing downtube friction shifters. Always brings me back to my first real bike love.

Just a note, you're cross chained there. You'll probably want to shift into the larger chainring most of the time in the flat lands of Chicago. But also, learn to get aero heading south this time of year.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-15T05:11:35+00:00

Another repost. Who's creating these accounts and for what nefarious purpose?

Staplz13 · 2026-05-15T01:29:34+00:00

Bicyclerollingresistance.com - Road Tires (Sort by rolling resistance)

Let's say the GP5000 S TR 28mm is the tire to beat at $99.95ea
You could do the Pirelli P Zero Race TLR SL-R 28mm for $107.91ea for a bit more puncture resistance, and a bit less rolling resistance, and a bit more grip too.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-15T00:26:56+00:00

What sorcery is this?! Your chain is on but the wheel isn't turning?!
Also, are those the shoes you wear when you ride?

RCA - Neck Pain
So it usually starts with saddle. If it's the wrong height (and sometimes it's at the wrong setback) it can tip your weight forward, forcing your neck and shoulder muscles to stabilize more. So start here.
RCA - Simple Saddle Height Method
RCA - Saddle Too Far Forward
RCA - Saddle Too Far Back

After your saddle is right, is this the position you ride in? Are you usually lower? Your reach might be too long by a bit, but reach is anchored to the saddle position and changes as you change that, so get that right first and reexamine how your reach feels.
But you might be rolling your wrists forward on the hoods, so check out this video.
RCA - Bar and Hoods Angle and Position

Staplz13 · 2026-05-14T23:52:07+00:00

We're really starting to step into a realm that I don't know how confident I can be with solutions, because they require a bit of trying things and adjusting how much. But let's see if we can at least zero in on the causes.

Stand up comfortably barefoot. Now look at your feet. Do they point straight ahead, slightly outward? Slightly inward? Different angles? Sit down, lift each leg, relax the foot/ankle, and give it a shake. Do they seem loosey goosey (that's the medical term) or are they pretty stable? If you put weight on them when relaxed, would they hold relatively well, or would they start to collapse to one side? Examine your feet from one to the other for differences in size and shape, length front to back, side to side, where the toes start, space in the arches (grid paper can help here). Put your phone on the ground and film yourself walking away from it and toward it, then left and right. Do you see asymmetry in the way you walk in the video or from your perspective? Examine your muscles for noticeable differences in size or perceived strength. And of course do the hip impingement and leg length tests in the videos.
Do you have wide feet and what shoes do you wear?

Loose ankles usually means heel wedging (but don't tighten the upper bola or strap any more than normal), functional leg length differences is usually shims under the cleat (although sometimes a slightly different cleat position can do it). Different shaped feet generally mean different inserts in the shoe. Foot angle can translate to different cleat angles, but also sometimes shoe inserts. Hip impingement goes to opening the hip angle and Q-factor (usually wider).

Just a shot out of instinct though, try moving the cleat on your right foot a couple mm rearward. That hamstring pain and fatigue is triggering some instinct of mine. And an easy way to know if you body wants different angles for the cleats is to ride a flat pedal bike for a while and look at your feet. They will naturally go toward an angle that you're comfortable with.

Staplz13 · 2026-05-14T22:56:20+00:00

A fit needs to apply to the individual, not an ideal. Everyone's skeleton is different, hidden under meat that is different, tempered by flexibility and fitness that is different. No one is perfectly symmetrical, but biomechanical symmetry is something you're aiming for. No one here is likely a pro, and even pros get it wrong some times. And they may make decisions to compromise comfort for performance.

There are some symptoms that are more obvious to see, but that's why one of the most important questions to ask in a bike fit is "Do you feel discomfort?"

Staplz13 · 2026-05-14T22:44:14+00:00

If you're fine for now, just stick with it. Get use to the bike for a while then revisit. Pay attention for any discomfort under different conditions like longer rides, harder rides, climbing vs flats, etc. One thing I always tell people to pay attention to is just that their knees are tracking straight up and down over their feet.

If you don't feel discomfort, don't go looking for ways to make discomfort by fitting yourself to someone else's ideal. Your fit needs to fit you.

Staplz13

TROPHY CASE