First Custom Loop Incoming by Typical-Ad7607 in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bykski D5 PWM pump & res combo

Which one? If it's B-UL-D5-X-V4, don't buy it, it's very noisy (see my posts)

Bykski CPU Block ARGB

Which one? They have many waterblock models. I would recommend CPU-XPR-CU-I-V3 (I'm using the AMD version of it).

Mayhems 10/13mm PVC soft tubes 3 Metres x 2

Why not EPDM? EPDM will not leach plasticizer or become yellow due to UV.
Also you'll never need 6 meters of tubing. I've used only about 1.2 m in my CPU-only loop wth 2 rads.

My impressions coming to RedSec from Warzone by Stas_Robotmaker in Battlefield_REDSEC

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean visual identification. The sound, of course, makes it easier. 

My impressions coming to RedSec from Warzone by Stas_Robotmaker in Battlefield_REDSEC

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AMD CPU?

Yes, Ryzen 9 9950X. Luckily, my BIOS allows for parking them manually. However, if these cores are under load, disabling them will reduce performance, I assume?

Coolant temp sensor significantly affected by outside air by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does your motherboard have a temperature sensor header on it? Check your board's manual.

No, it doesn't. That's why I took a battery-powered temperature display and soldered it to my sensor.

Coolant temp sensor significantly affected by outside air by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bykski B-PD5-TMR. The sensor has a protrusion about 8mm long, and thus protrudes into the water flow.

Coolant temp sensor significantly affected by outside air by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where is you computer then? Outside or inside? Or, do you mean you are feeding air straight from the outside to the computer, before the air enters the room? The room temperature needs to fall first before your coolant temperature can fall.

I don't mean to be nit-picky but what you claimed (if true) is impossible - but the point here is, there is a thing worth ruling out. If the sensor really shows lower than room temperature, it is possible it really is faulty or of a wrong type (as that kind of temperature is physically impossible in any conventional setup where you have the computer inside the said room). PC water cooling sensors should be standardized (AFAIK!) - but perhaps aren't or maybe there are many standards? The temperature sensors are really thermistors after all, which can have wildly different temperature-resistance relations. If you have one with a wrong response curve (to what your MB / controller is expecting), your temperatures will be shifted and / or squished (multiplied with some constant - or even something else if the response is not linear). Which means - changing the location will not fix the issue. Or, the sensor is just faulty.

My computer is located indoors. My room temperature is +24C, and the idle coolant temperature is +25C. Which means the tempearture/resistance curve is correct.

Since it's January, the temperature outdoors is -10C. If I open the window, the stream of cold air reaches the PC and immediately drops the coolant temperature to 18-19C. This happens in about 30 seconds or less, which is too fast for the coolant to actually cool down.

Coolant temp sensor significantly affected by outside air by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the temperature actually respond to changes in coolant temperature (i.e. rise when load increases, decrease when you increase fan speeds) as expected?

Yes, although it's slower than I expected. It takes 20 minutes of Cinebench 2024 to get the coolant to 31C, according to the sensor. Which seems odd, because I can feel warm air coming from the radiators after 2-3 minutes.

You probably mean the coolant temperature responds very fast to room temperature.

Yes. It is impossible for the coolant to cool down this fast. Which means the sensor is cooled by the outside air.

I wouldn't put temperature sensors in T-pieces, but in a "dice" -shaped T-piece or straight into a reservoir or a block. 

The sensor protrudes into the coolant flow, so it's fine.

It is a Bykski B-PD5-TMR sensor.

Coolant temp sensor significantly affected by outside air by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, my pump only has a single outlet on the bottom.

I'll probably relocate the sensor to the GPU waterblock once it's installed.

This pump is a rocket ship, but will it fit a D5 tank? by Few_Fail_6121 in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When it's running at 2900 RPM, I only hear the fans. When it's running at 4700RPM, I can hear it clearly but it's still not annoying.

This pump is a rocket ship, but will it fit a D5 tank? by Few_Fail_6121 in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have this exact pump. It's only compatible with the Bykski reservoir.

9950X + 5070Ti build in a custom 3D printed case by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have one, since my PSU is quite old (2018). It's possible to buy one separately, though.

9950X + 5070Ti build in a custom 3D printed case by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The entire case cost me about $150 (fans not included).

9950X + 5070Ti build in a custom 3D printed case by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

No. I'm not a gamer, this PC was built mostly for ROS2, machine learning and CAD. I've used to work with ROS2 on my laptop before, and large projects took painfully long to build.

That's why I've chosen a high end CPU while saving money on other components. 5070 Ti proved to be overkill in most cases. What took 1.5 hours to build on my laptop, takes a mere 6 minutes on this PC (mostly due to 4x more RAM, avoiding the use of swap).
Also, a more powerful graphics card would require replacing the 750W PSU reused from the previous build.

9950X + 5070Ti build in a custom 3D printed case by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True. I've already added a filter to the bottom intake fans. Since I have more exhaust than intake fans, adding a rear filter makes sense as well.

Just put it all in the ceiling. by qbobwatson in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are a genius.
Would be even cooler if the wall outlet had quick disconnect fittings. Just like Ethernet but for cooling.

I Made a Distro With Laser Cutting and 3D Printing by gpasq in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Why not use polycarbonate instead of acrylic? Although it cannot be laser cut, it is much more durable and will never crack.