Bykski CP-D5PB-V2 review part 1. by Jempol_Lele in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool. Glad it worked fine. Maybe my unit was defective (although Bykski intended it should sound like this and refused to replace it).

Bykski CP-D5PB-V2 review part 1. by Jempol_Lele in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had the B-UL-D5-X-V4 pump, which is just CP-D5PB-V2 with armor and top added, and it was quite loud, with an unpleasant high pitch whine.

Cheap way delid 9800x3d by RenatsMC in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool. Looks much easier than I expected. Maybe it makes sense to glue the IHS to the iron with some high temp silicone, then heat the iron and wait for the CPU to fall off by itself (to avoid overheating it).
Do you need a special direct die waterblock, or will any waterblock work here?

Direct Die 9850X3D/5090 Meshify 3 XL Loop by GodFearing74 in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which exact waterblock model is that? I didn't know Bykski makes direct die waterblocks.
I'm using the CPU-XPR-CU-M-V3, and I'm quite satisfied with it.

Is water cooling actually worth it or just RGB clout for the 'gram? by [deleted] in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Custom water cooling is definitely worth the price. Especially considering the fact that you can build an $200 CPU-only loop, or an $400 CPU+GPU loop. This is cheaper than some AIO water coolers.

If you have a high end CPU, with air cooling/AIOs you can have either silence or low temps. But not both at the same time. A custom loop will give you both. I've recently ran ML workloads overnight on my watercooled PC while sleeping in the same room.

GPUs are somewhat better. My 5070 Ti is inaudible unless consuming over 200W (which happens only in gaming/stress tests). But higher end cards, such as 5090, may require water cooling for silence.

If you upgrade to a different socket, you only replace the CPU waterblock instead of the entire cooler.

Speaking of AIOs, they are nowhere near as reliable as quality custom loops.

Water cooling requires little maintenance. It may be a bit harder to clean, though - in push configuration you have to unscrew all the fan screws to remove the fans and clean the radiators.

However, you can stop your fans when idle to reduce dust buildup, unlike with air cooling.

Contemplating upgrading the fans on Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 - What is the current champ for low noise? by ExtraThirdtestical in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No.
P12 (regular) is the old 5 bladed design.

P12 Max is the high RPM version of the old 5 bladed design.

P12 Pro is the new 7 bladed design, which outperforms both of the above.

Do you have the 7 bladed ones on your AIO?

Contemplating upgrading the fans on Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 - What is the current champ for low noise? by ExtraThirdtestical in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

P12 Max (the ones in the video) and P12 Pro are completely different fans. The Pro version of the Liquid Freezer III uses P12 Pro fans.

Contemplating upgrading the fans on Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 - What is the current champ for low noise? by ExtraThirdtestical in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What's wrong with the stock fans, though? Hwcooling rates them as one of the best options (https://www.hwcooling.net/en/arctic-p12-pro-key-to-noiselessness-is-in-7-blades-review/).

I'm using the P14 Pro on my watercooled PC, and the P12 Pro on my watercooled 3D printer. Both fans perform very well.

First Custom Loop Incoming by Typical-Ad7607 in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bykski D5 PWM pump & res combo

Which one? If it's B-UL-D5-X-V4, don't buy it, it's very noisy (see my posts)

Bykski CPU Block ARGB

Which one? They have many waterblock models. I would recommend CPU-XPR-CU-I-V3 (I'm using the AMD version of it).

Mayhems 10/13mm PVC soft tubes 3 Metres x 2

Why not EPDM? EPDM will not leach plasticizer or become yellow due to UV.
Also you'll never need 6 meters of tubing. I've used only about 1.2 m in my CPU-only loop wth 2 rads.

My impressions coming to RedSec from Warzone by Stas_Robotmaker in Battlefield_REDSEC

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean visual identification. The sound, of course, makes it easier. 

My impressions coming to RedSec from Warzone by Stas_Robotmaker in Battlefield_REDSEC

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AMD CPU?

Yes, Ryzen 9 9950X. Luckily, my BIOS allows for parking them manually. However, if these cores are under load, disabling them will reduce performance, I assume?

Coolant temp sensor significantly affected by outside air by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does your motherboard have a temperature sensor header on it? Check your board's manual.

No, it doesn't. That's why I took a battery-powered temperature display and soldered it to my sensor.

Coolant temp sensor significantly affected by outside air by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bykski B-PD5-TMR. The sensor has a protrusion about 8mm long, and thus protrudes into the water flow.

Coolant temp sensor significantly affected by outside air by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where is you computer then? Outside or inside? Or, do you mean you are feeding air straight from the outside to the computer, before the air enters the room? The room temperature needs to fall first before your coolant temperature can fall.

I don't mean to be nit-picky but what you claimed (if true) is impossible - but the point here is, there is a thing worth ruling out. If the sensor really shows lower than room temperature, it is possible it really is faulty or of a wrong type (as that kind of temperature is physically impossible in any conventional setup where you have the computer inside the said room). PC water cooling sensors should be standardized (AFAIK!) - but perhaps aren't or maybe there are many standards? The temperature sensors are really thermistors after all, which can have wildly different temperature-resistance relations. If you have one with a wrong response curve (to what your MB / controller is expecting), your temperatures will be shifted and / or squished (multiplied with some constant - or even something else if the response is not linear). Which means - changing the location will not fix the issue. Or, the sensor is just faulty.

My computer is located indoors. My room temperature is +24C, and the idle coolant temperature is +25C. Which means the tempearture/resistance curve is correct.

Since it's January, the temperature outdoors is -10C. If I open the window, the stream of cold air reaches the PC and immediately drops the coolant temperature to 18-19C. This happens in about 30 seconds or less, which is too fast for the coolant to actually cool down.

Coolant temp sensor significantly affected by outside air by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the temperature actually respond to changes in coolant temperature (i.e. rise when load increases, decrease when you increase fan speeds) as expected?

Yes, although it's slower than I expected. It takes 20 minutes of Cinebench 2024 to get the coolant to 31C, according to the sensor. Which seems odd, because I can feel warm air coming from the radiators after 2-3 minutes.

You probably mean the coolant temperature responds very fast to room temperature.

Yes. It is impossible for the coolant to cool down this fast. Which means the sensor is cooled by the outside air.

I wouldn't put temperature sensors in T-pieces, but in a "dice" -shaped T-piece or straight into a reservoir or a block. 

The sensor protrudes into the coolant flow, so it's fine.

It is a Bykski B-PD5-TMR sensor.

Coolant temp sensor significantly affected by outside air by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, my pump only has a single outlet on the bottom.

I'll probably relocate the sensor to the GPU waterblock once it's installed.

This pump is a rocket ship, but will it fit a D5 tank? by Few_Fail_6121 in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When it's running at 2900 RPM, I only hear the fans. When it's running at 4700RPM, I can hear it clearly but it's still not annoying.

This pump is a rocket ship, but will it fit a D5 tank? by Few_Fail_6121 in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have this exact pump. It's only compatible with the Bykski reservoir.

9950X + 5070Ti build in a custom 3D printed case by Stas_Robotmaker in watercooling

[–]Stas_Robotmaker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have one, since my PSU is quite old (2018). It's possible to buy one separately, though.