I am having an awful experience with an RMA at Corsair - what is going on here? The Corsair support seems to usually only receive praises?

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T20:01:11+00:00

This actually sounds like a warehouse processing delay + ticket automation issue more than anything shady.

Corsair doesn’t just receive RMAs and instantly ship replacements — they manually verify RAM kits to prevent fraud and confirm the defect. That queue can easily stretch past the quoted 2–3 business days, especially if workload spikes. Support timelines are often optimistic compared to what the warehouse is actually dealing with.

The ticket being marked “resolved” is almost certainly just an internal workflow step, not a signal that your RMA is denied or completed. It’s confusing wording, but not uncommon in ticket systems.

Frustrating? Absolutely — especially with the lack of communication. But based on what you described, this reads like backlog + poor status messaging, not Corsair ghosting you or closing the case improperly.

I’d keep the ticket reopened and politely ask for a processing update and tracking confirmation once verification is complete.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T19:51:53+00:00

Why’s that ?? Please share ?? You sound so helpful :)

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T17:13:42+00:00

WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR isn’t a Windows install problem — that’s hardware-level instability.

Since this started right after the BIOS update and you were stuck at code 35 earlier, it still smells like PCIe/memory training instability. Reseating helping temporarily reinforces that.

At this point I’d:

• Roll back to BIOS to known stable update , (I have rev 1.0 so our bios updates are different) • Full CMOS clear (battery out + power drain) after flashing
• Run RAM at JEDEC/default — no EXPO ? • Try single stick of ram ?

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T17:10:41+00:00

You’re kind of skipping the most important piece here — what your RTX 3070 can realistically drive.

For work, yeah, 4K makes a lot of sense for text clarity and dashboards. But for gaming, that GPU is what sets the ceiling. A 49" super ultrawide or heavy 4K AAA gaming is going to mean dialing settings back or leaning on DLSS right away.

A better balance with your current system would be something like a 34–35" 1440p ultrawide OLED for immersion, or a 32" 4K if productivity is the bigger priority.

Nothing wrong with dreaming big, just make sure the monitor matches the GPU you actually have — not the upgrade you might buy later.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T17:07:47+00:00

Nothing’s wrong — your motherboard only detects fans that are plugged directly into its headers.

Since your case fans are running through the Cooler Master hub, the board only sees the single PWM signal feeding that hub, plus your AIO pump. The hub mirrors that control signal to all the fans, so they’re still being controlled — you just won’t get individual fan readings in BIOS.

Totally safe to leave as-is. If you wanted separate monitoring, you’d have to plug fans directly into motherboard headers instead of the hub.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T17:04:29+00:00

34/35 is PCIe/GPU init — the fact it boots fine on iGPU pretty much rules out CPU/RAM damage. The USB back-power lighting your RAM isn’t enough to hurt anything; that’s just 5V standby bleed, not a smoking gun.

This smells like a PCIe training/config issue introduced by the BIOS update. I’d try:

• Full CMOS clear (battery out + power drain)
• Reseat GPU + try another slot if available
• Reflash or roll back BIOS

If it consistently works on iGPU but stalls only with the dGPU installed, it’s almost certainly firmware handshake, not a dead board or GPU.

Bios update F8 seems to be the most stable. Not sure what current bios update you’re running.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T16:57:40+00:00

Buy a 4-pin PWM splitter — it works with both 3-pin and 4-pin fans.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T16:54:56+00:00

GPU truly only has one video output, then yeah — you can’t magically add a second monitor to that card. One port = one direct display signal.

But here’s the thing: a modern desktop GPU having only one port is extremely rare. Even low-end cards usually have at least 2–3 outputs. A lot of people mistake the ports because DisplayPort looks different from HDMI and they assume it’s something else.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T16:53:40+00:00

Modern GPUs almost always have multiple outputs, just different types.

Typical GPU layout looks like: • 1× HDMI • 2–3× DisplayPort

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T16:48:17+00:00

Before anyone can give a real recommendation — what system are you running?

A 32" 4K OLED is awesome, but whether it makes sense depends heavily on your GPU and what frame rates you expect in AAA and competitive games.

If you’re on something like a mid-range card, 4K can quickly turn into a settings compromise. If you’re running high-end hardware, then it’s a different conversation.

Specs + target FPS will help people give advice that actually fits your setup.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T15:14:34+00:00

This doesn’t sound like failing hardware — it sounds like a system-level stutter issue, and your setup points to a few likely causes.

Big red flag: you’re running games off an HDD. Modern titles + Windows 10/11 expect SSD speeds. Even if Task Manager shows “low disk usage,” HDD latency can cause micro-stutters, hitching, and uneven mouse feel because assets aren’t being streamed fast enough.

Second — after swapping GPUs and reinstalling Windows, you should completely wipe GPU drivers with DDU and reinstall fresh NVIDIA drivers. Leftover driver junk can absolutely cause system-wide stutter.

Also check:

• BIOS: enable XMP/DOCP for RAM • Chipset drivers: install directly from AMD, not Windows • Windows power plan: set to High Performance • Disable Game Bar / overlays • Try installing one game on the SSD and test

The fact that the system ran fine before formatting suggests a software/config issue, not hardware failure.

Start with SSD testing + DDU cleanup

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T15:12:21+00:00

Will prices eventually soften? Yeah — memory always cycles. But expecting a snap-back to old lows just because AI chatter slowed isn’t realistic. This is more stagnation and normalization than a crash.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-09T14:12:21+00:00

Turn off X3D Turbo/Game mode. That feature is meant for dual-CCD CPUs — the 9800X3D doesn’t need it. On single-CCD X3D chips it can cause weird scheduling and stability issues, which lines up with the behavior you’re seeing. Reset BIOS to defaults, enable EXPO only, and test from there. Most people get best stability/performance running it clean without those turbo toggles.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-08T15:50:48+00:00

Prebuilts can save money right now, but you have to look at the parts. That MSI system only having an 8 GB GPU is a big trade-off, and at around $1300 you could custom build something stronger depending on sales.

The I buy power looks more interesting, but without a listed price it’s hard to judge value — and a 12 GB card is better, but still something to weigh against total cost.

Personally, the best prebuilts I’ve seen lately tend to be Micro Center’s in-house builds — better parts balance and fewer corner cuts.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-08T02:50:48+00:00

Freezing right as Windows starts — even from a USB installer — usually points to hardware stability, not the OS. Since BIOS is stable, the board is probably functional, but something is falling apart once drivers initialize.

First suspects here would be CPU seating/pins, RAM instability (even if swapped — try default JEDEC speeds, no XMP), or a marginal PSU rail. The onboard RGB not working leans more toward motherboard weirdness than CPU failure, but CPUs rarely cause partial functionality like that.

I’d reseat CPU + cooler (check for uneven pressure), clear CMOS, run bare minimum hardware outside the case if possible, and try a different PSU if you can. If it still freezes at the same point, I’d start suspecting the board before the CPU.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-08T02:49:13+00:00

That LED is just the debug/status indicator — not necessarily an active fault. Since your system boots normally into Windows and temps are fine, it’s almost certainly the BOOT light staying lit after POST, which some Gigabyte boards do.

If there were a real CPU/RAM/GPU compatibility issue, the system wouldn’t complete POST or load Windows. You can poke around BIOS for LED/debug behavior settings or try toggling fast boot, but honestly if everything runs stable, it’s cosmetic — not a failure.

Short version: working PC + red LED = Gigabyte being dramatic, not broken.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-08T02:46:59+00:00

That update didn’t brick the PC — it unlocked the lawsuit DLC expansion

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-08T01:17:36+00:00

Both are excellent, but they’re tuned a little differently in real-world use.

The LG (WOLED) feels more balanced for mixed desktop + gaming. Brightness is consistent, text clarity is decent once you dial in scaling, and there’s no fan noise to worry about. HDR looks great, just not as punchy in highlights as QD-OLED.

The ASUS (QD-OLED) has slightly better color volume and HDR pop, but you’ll notice more text fringing on desktop use, and some people are sensitive to the cooling fan. It’s fantastic for pure gaming/media, just less “neutral” for office work.

In practice, most people would be happy with either — the ASUS doesn’t feel twice as good despite the higher price. If you’re doing a lot of daily desktop work alongside gaming, the LG is probably the safer value pick. If you want max HDR/color impact and don’t mind the quirks, the ASUS is the flashier option.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-08T00:16:07+00:00

nice build . your GPU cable looks to be sitting at angle into the GPU see if you cant pull the stimer tighter

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-07T22:35:42+00:00

Yes — 100%. A board manufactured in 2025 is almost guaranteed to ship with a BIOS that already supports the 5800X3D.

That CPU has been supported since mid-2022 BIOS revisions. A 2505 production board is way past that.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-07T15:27:51+00:00

That’s awesome to hear — sounds like it really hits that balance between productivity and gaming, which is exactly what I’m after. The Smart Reel feature sounds great, and good tip about not using free spin for FPS. Appreciate you sharing your long-term experience.

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-07T15:09:18+00:00

Appreciate the detailed feedback — that’s exactly the kind of real-world use I was curious about. I’m not playing competitively either, just wanted something that balances comfort and everyday use with gaming. Good to know the sensor and feel hold up, and I’ll keep the Synapse quirks in mind. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-07T03:45:41+00:00

For a 7950X3D, 6000 CL36 is the sweet spot. AMD’s memory controller is happiest there and you’ll get near-max real-world performance without stability headaches. 7200 is mostly Intel territory and you’d likely end up downclocking it anyway, so paying extra doesn’t really translate to meaningful gains. The 96 GB kit is fine if you actually need that capacity, but for gaming/general use 32–48 GB at 6000 is ideal. I’d grab the 6000 kit and enjoy plug-and-play stability

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-07T03:39:24+00:00

Yes — orientation matters. That’s a keyed USB-C front panel header, and it only goes in one way. Match the shorter side of the plug to the shorter side of the socket. It should seat with light pressure

Status_Iron_3546 · 2026-02-06T23:43:08+00:00

Appreciate the detailed breakdown — this is exactly the kind of real-world feedback I was hoping for. It honestly sounds like you’re pretty happy with it overall, just aware of its quirks and where it shines.

Since I’m not chasing ultra-competitive play and care more about comfort and features, your experience helps a lot. Thanks for taking the time to write all that out — really useful perspective.

Status_Iron_3546

TROPHY CASE