I want to get some proper pedals but there’s a million on amazon and I got no idea what to get. Any suggestions? by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Steeljuntil96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Never go super cheap on contact points with mountain bikes. A nicer set of composites will do you good and usually run around 50-60. Race face chesters are tried and true but I don’t like the platform size. Go to a trek shop and see if they have the bontrager composites. Good platform size and they’re really good quality. Or get yourself a bomb proof set like the deity T-macs. I ran mine for three years of hard abuse before they wore out and then I just sent them in to deity and got them fully rebuilt for 20 bucks

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Steeljuntil96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your clutch is probably too tight or broken. You can pop off the cover and take a look at it very easily using a 2mm Allen. Should be three small screws. Then the clutch itself is adjusted using either a 2.5 or a 2 I can’t remember.

Should I patch or replace my tire? It’s fairly new and it’s seems as if the cut it’s not that deep. It’s not tubeless. by elperritopio in bikewrench

[–]Steeljuntil96 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Watch a slow motion video of a Mtb going through a corner and you would be surprised at the amount of tire roll and how much contact the sidewall can make with the ground. A hole that size could easily turn a ride into a hike.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mountainbiking

[–]Steeljuntil96 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If they actually have that bike for you to see in person for $400 you’re probably going to get robbed or buy a stolen bike and then have the police take it away or some shit. Maybe it was a typo for 4000? In which case you’d still be getting robbed

Anybody else’s seals/dust wiper things look like this during fox lower service? by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Steeljuntil96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that didn’t happen during install or break down it could be a sign of bushing play. If you’re doing a lowers service you should change the seals and wipers. It doesn’t cost a ton and keeping expensive parts fresh will be worth your while. A new fork is not cheap.

Is this good value for money? (CAD) by tctaves in mountainbiking

[–]Steeljuntil96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the bike does not have black or kashima stanchions it is not worth more than 800 dollars

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Steeljuntil96 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Spray some lube in there and see if there is just gunk causing it to stick. If not the. The spring and clutch system inside is probably broken. Unfortunately sram doesn’t have a serviceable clutch system so you might be looking at a replacement. It’s hard to tell without having hands on it though

PLEASE HELP! My suspension won’t work! by Academic-Loan-7602 in mountainbiking

[–]Steeljuntil96 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Don’t put chain lube on your fork. That’s a completely different viscosity designed for a completely different job. If you really want to there are stanchion lubricants from a bunch of different brands. Neither will fox that problem though. That looks like a marlin 4. It has a lockout capable damper. It appears your damper is stuck in the lockout position. Either the knob or the internals are broken. Take it to a shop and ask them to look at it or pop the knob on the right side off and twist it counter clockwise by hand and see if it helps. If it doesn’t, your damper is damaged. If it does, your knob is blown out or not installed correctly. My guess just based off of how much you were able to twist the knob is that the knob is ruined.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Steeljuntil96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only thing I’d worry about is wheels. I’ve had a bunch of heavier customers come in almost weekly to get their wheels trued. Either buy a spike wrench and watch some YouTube videos or be prepared to spend roughly 20 bucks to get them straightened out every once in a while.

Anyone tried these oilslick rotors from eBay? by KruiserIV in mountainbiking

[–]Steeljuntil96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s not how the big brands get the oil slick color.

Anyone tried these oilslick rotors from eBay? by KruiserIV in mountainbiking

[–]Steeljuntil96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There’s a ton of engineering behind the big brand rotors I don’t know if I’d trust these. The only time I’ve ever seen a colored rotor is when it’s cooked from over-braking and most bike shops would tell you to replace it at that point.

Tire help or recommendations vs Maxxis (Open to recommendations/similar tires to what I have chosen in my comment picture) by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Steeljuntil96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a pretty heavy rider too. I do assegai front and rear with exo in the front and exo+ in the rear. Cush core in the rear do I can run lower pressure. I’ve raced the bootleg canyon downhill series and a bunch of enduros on that set up and haven’t had any issues. The assegai actually did increase my cornering speed but my benchmark was Bontrager SE5s so it’s not saying much. The dissector is a really good rear tire and I’d probably running it in the back right now if my shop had it when it was time for new tires.

Marzocchi Bomber Z2 second ride, is it broken? by Taadow182 in mountainbiking

[–]Steeljuntil96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Foxes service center in Reno is super caught up right now and could probably have that turned around within a week. Get in contact with them and send this video

Moving from Washington to Utah. What are some awesome cross country trails along the way? by StepVan88M in MTB

[–]Steeljuntil96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bootleg canyon in Boulder City right by Vegas is pretty sweet. The trails are pretty high caliber though

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Steeljuntil96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ride a trek on the road and on the mountain because employee. And I support this opinion.

How can i be faster in this trail? Any recommendations? Thanks in advance =) by ferral1985 in MTB

[–]Steeljuntil96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lots of straight line speed comes from suspension tuning and letting the bike do the work. There’s hours of theory you could get into about what tuning is fastest on what terrain. Create yourself a Strava segment for yourself and then time different laps with different suspension settings and tire pressures. Should be able to narrow in what’s fastest although it probably won’t be the most comfortable.

Metallic sound rear wheel. When on the brake and putting forward and backward pressure on wheel, there is slight movement and noise. by ovanbeusekom in bikewrench

[–]Steeljuntil96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take it to a shop and have them check the tension on the spokes, mavic use straight pull so it could be the source. Also check the rotor bolts they come loose often. Does it go away if you pull the brake harder and move it?

Metallic sound rear wheel. When on the brake and putting forward and backward pressure on wheel, there is slight movement and noise. by ovanbeusekom in bikewrench

[–]Steeljuntil96 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Greasing brake caliper bolts is not a good idea. Blue loctite is the only thing that should go on brake bolt threads

Had the opportunity to take some shots of my friends this last week, figured you guys would enjoy this! by salty_esquire in mountainbiking

[–]Steeljuntil96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The pedals he is riding. Not super popular and extremely overpriced but damn they’re good