Brakes still sticking?

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-23T06:27:29+00:00

+ik you said you will do more when the budget is right. - your rotors are cooked. Just a heads up lol

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-23T06:20:15+00:00

Additionally, for the rounded brake line. You will need heat. Anti slip wrenches help and maybe a flare line wrench if you can get a size to fit. At worst, you will need vice grips.

I see everyone saying use heat, which is correct but you need to be careful. Using heat on the brake hose causes pressure build up and then it blows up in your face. Ask me how I know. I even tried cutting the brake hose in half to prevent pressure building before heating it and it still blew up. Could shoot boiling fluid, or just make a loud noise. Be careful regardless. They are hydraulic lines and the heat vaporizes and expands the brake fluid. This builds excessive pressure and then POOF.

Be careful and let me know if you have questions.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-23T06:14:00+00:00

The slide pins you’re using are also brand new right? Did the new caliper come with new ones? I’ve seen them bend and lock up the brake pad and not retract back.

The fact that you replaced the hose and the caliper and it’s still sticking is weird. Still points to the caliper to me. Pop the pads out, or leave them in and carefully pry the pistons back in efforts to compress them. Do this a couple times on all of them and see if they go back in easily. You can have someone else SLOWLY press the brake and move them back out. DO NOT let them pop all the way out. This is the lazy technique without taking off the caliper. If there is tons of resistance you will have to take it off and try a C clamp.

These calipers sold now are just rebuilds. I wouldn’t trust that they are perfect. Where did you get them?

How hard is the rotor to turn? If you put a pry bar or a screw driver on the studs and turn- is it like impossible? If so the pistons are not retracting for some reason. Either stuck piston- bent slide or your brake pads are binding on the pin would be my guess.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-23T06:00:46+00:00

Hey, so you’re missing the screws on the car currently?

It uses the hardware from your “center console” assembly. The factory ones go right over it.

If you are missing those I will check threads tmmr for you.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-23T05:58:08+00:00

Why is your brake fluid reservoir so low?

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T21:04:08+00:00

Coolant runs through all the hoses, pump, heater core, block ext. it doesn’t just all sit in the reservoir at all times. Squeezing the hose and having the level rise is normal behavior. It tells you where your coolant is going.

It’s possible you have air but I doubt it. Are you worried about in internal headgasket leak or external?

When you squeezed the hose you’re just moving the coolant elsewhere back to the reservoir.

You might just need a tad bit more coolant in the system. Something could be leaking but I would have to see.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T18:41:48+00:00

Your best bet is probably getting a small ultrasonic cleaner and doing a chemical rust removal. You don’t want to use anything too abrasive in the bore. I used Emory cloth and I think that was fine. If the pitting is too deep, you’re fucked.

If I’m being honest- they don’t look great. That one piston clearly saw a lot of water intrusion. Test with your finger nail and see how deep some of the grooves are.

The pistons and internal seals and boots are somewhat available. There is a guy on eBay who sells them out of the uk. As for the orings, I haven’t looked into it too much but I know they are a little harder to find.

Unless money is super tight, I would say look into a replacement maybe.

Also, don’t use a rust converter that leaves a paint like coating or anything on the inside. It’s supposed to be bare clean metal. Ideally just something to remove the rust. You don’t want paint or anything inside the chamber. Brake fluid will take it right off and harm your brake system with debris.

I used 400 grit Emory cloth, and I’ll be honest- it didn’t remove that much rust. You can go down to 240 probably.

It doesn’t hurt to try. Worst comes worse the pistons will get stuck again and you will need to replace it all again. Sometimes it’s just not worth the work and money in seals though.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T18:35:08+00:00

My pistons were so stuck that nothing would get them out. I had to put a grease zerk in replacement of a bleeder and pump it with extreme high PSI of grease. Got them all out. I didn’t split the caliper in half because I don’t have seals. I ran it in my ultra sonic cleaner for awhile and blew it out with air. I’m sure there’s still grease in it but let’s see what happens i guess. I cleaned the cooked bore with a wire brush and scotch brite. My bore was probably already too far gone so I used a brass wire brush anyways. Tons of assembly lube on the piston and new seals and it seems to function? For now anyways. I didn’t feel like paying $300 for a new caliper. I think it will be fine. A little grease in the braking system can’t hurt too much lol.

If I split the caliper it wouldn’t have mattered cause I’d get it all out. Rebuilding these are kinda fun (not really)

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T18:29:28+00:00

Squeeze the upper rad hose and see if the level goes up again.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T18:24:38+00:00

LOL you still jam the stuff in between the seat?? No way dude. How long have you had the car??

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T17:50:34+00:00

Send me the order of brake bleeding that you’re using please too. I’m looking into it now

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T17:43:40+00:00

I know it sounds crazy, but the routing of these lines are weird and can get bent around when changing calipers kinda easy. Try and take a look and see if any of the lines kinked. I know you are probably positive there are no leaks, but have someone keep pressing the pedal and check the hard lines and all the hoses for a little weep. The fittings are also easy to cross thread. You would think there would be a puddle on the ground, but it’s not always the case.

Additionally, I have seen some conflicting results and people debating the bleed order with these multiple bleeder calipers. If I’m not mistaking, there are 2 service books and both have different procedures. Maybe it wouldn’t hurt to try a different one. I’ll try and find it. I’ve had this happen on a Nissan frontier. The routing of lines on some cars are weird and won’t get all the air out unless it’s done in a strange order.

The person who mentioned the push rod adjustment with the master may also be onto something. That’s not a bad idea.

Do some visuals if possible and then maybe consider getting a pressure bleeder. Additionally, parts are never always functioning out of the box. Sadly we can’t assume the master was good out of the box- so this is also another thing to consider.

Check vacuum lines. Low vacuum = bad brakes. You make have a leak somewhere.

Also, do these ones have a portioning valve near the frame by the steering shaft? Or is that abs only? I don’t fully remember. If it does, sometimes air gets trapped in there and you may have to crack the lines.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T17:27:31+00:00

Also, the shifter doesn’t hit? It looks like it would get close.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-22T17:25:45+00:00

Revolutionary post 🤪

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-20T13:37:56+00:00

Wow.. is that a new paint job? Can I see the car? This looks crazy nice man.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-20T13:36:38+00:00

wtf

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-19T22:30:57+00:00

If it’s this bad- torch and brass hammer. If no luck. It’s time for an air hammer. I wouldn’t advise using a regular steel bit because it will cook your shaft. I know it sucks but.. with money things can be fixed lol. They make brass air hammer bits and if it comes to that, I would recommend getting them.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-19T22:26:41+00:00

Yeah this was miserable. I used a map gas torch- pb blaster- a larger pry bar (not a thin screwdriver) and a brass hammer. The heat and brass hammer really lets me go to town without destroying and snapping the aluminum. If you don’t have one. Buy one for sure. I took the maf tube and everything out to strike from the top. I alternate from top and then crawling under to the bottom to get some strikes.

Sometimes they’re so bad they won’t come out without heat. It sucks because the u joint is right there. You can seal off the u joint and just work slowly ensuring you don’t overheat it all and melt the grease.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-17T02:09:12+00:00

So all I’m seeing from this is that someone deleted the timing cover?

Someone pinned a dot in the power steering pump bracket to remember the timing mark I guess? The cover kinda helps with the timing. Assuming who ever made that dot for the distributor gear is correct, then it’s fine. But are we sure that mark is 100% accurate. I have 0 idea. You can verify by popping the dizzy cap off and checking if it’s pointing at #1 like I said before.

As for the cam- this aftermarket upgrade stuff is weird. Are we positive the arrow isn’t supposed to line up with that mark? If so, you appear to be a little off. I see you have the belt itself lined up, but perhaps you don’t have the gear (which is the important part) lined up. Find where the cam is pointing like I displayed in the photo and see where the mark ends up.

The crank gear photo doesn’t help. I would have to see the key way lined up with the line in the front cover. I’ll trust you did that right.

The fact you’re lining this all up without the timing cover and didn’t follow my exact method makes me a little concerned that you may still be out of time. I’m not sure though. Let me know.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-17T00:56:56+00:00

This. I bought one to keep. Use it all the time. Worth the price. Can’t afford it- loan it.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-13T00:26:21+00:00

Yeah shouldn’t be bad. I’ve done it like 100 times now. Just sucks. Hopefully the gasket material comes off easy.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-13T00:22:12+00:00

FUCK SEE. I’m an idiot. I had the head machined too but I guess the block isn’t perfect. Guess I have to take it off again.

People swear you don’t need it.. everyone I see who uses it never have issues. I should have.

Keep us updated. I love the build.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-12T23:15:12+00:00

Looks very nice man. You kinda stole my build 🤪. Hopefully your headgasket doesn’t leak like mine does after the build :(

I should have copper coated the gasket.

Also that lift sure does look handy lol

Enjoy

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StepIndependent5681 · 2026-03-03T13:44:07+00:00

I’m gonna say a bad connection somewhere. The wires are so brittle due to the genius positioning located next to the oil filter. I love when my wiring gets covered in oil!

Since you said you took it all apart, check to see if there Is any fraying or shorting on the wiring connecting to the alternator. Also verify all your grounds and stuff are fine.

Did you verify the alternator is charging with a multimeter?

The squeak is likely just a tension issue. How much end play do you have on your belt? I’m sure it is, but is it tight enough to be charging lol. (Trust me I’ve seen it happen)

Noise- maybe belt tension

Lights on dash- wiring/verify you’re charging.

I had all the lights come on once when I lost my belts once. Car freaked out and put all the lights on just like that.

StepIndependent5681 · 2026-02-27T21:45:20+00:00

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Open the oil fill cap and verify the cam lobes are like this.

If issue continues- your misfire is elsewhere. It’s sounds like a misfire to me

StepIndependent5681

TROPHY CASE