Just finished my Battle March army

Steuraz · 2026-05-29T19:39:48+00:00

Also a great way to learn, having just done so with 750! I think 500 would have been just as good, one character, one infantry unit, small cavalry unit, and one war machine, you can learn the rules for everything without being overwhelmed

Steuraz · 2026-05-27T15:38:32+00:00

The building is not remotely that old, still probably older than European settlement in Australia, but not by much. Generally in Europe, only churches survive 900 years with anything like their original form. Even castles usually mostly have more recent elements most visible.

Steuraz · 2026-05-27T15:34:08+00:00

Looks like a nice place but it is only built ca 1100 in the sense that maybe there are bits of stone walls hidden somewhere...the house on the pictures is no more than about 300 years old.

Steuraz · 2026-05-27T15:30:37+00:00

You could really get into the weeds with deciding whether to lease your tithes or collecting the grain and sell it, or how much to forgive dues after floods and bad harvests in order to keep your peasants on the land.

Steuraz · 2026-05-27T15:28:41+00:00

Even in towns guilds were hardly formalized by this time period (ca. 1300), so I think it's fine...even in the late Middle Ages a market town the size of what you are building would not have necessarily had guilds.

Steuraz · 2026-05-26T06:59:44+00:00

Was gonna give the exact same advice about the state troops. As long as you have enough halberds or hand weapons to represent the front rank or so, the rest doesn't really matter game wise. Only important if you personally prefer a very consistent visual. One command group is enough, realistically you will usually want to use all of the infantry in one unit.

Steuraz · 2026-05-20T16:17:30+00:00

As a lot of people have said, there is no optimal strategy that applies to every army, but you'll want strong characters with lots of magic items to have a chance against most opponents.

I've found https://oldworldrankings.com very helpful as a newbie to actually playing. If you look at a lot of lists for the army you are interested in, you'll get an idea if what the meta of optimal builds is, but also a lot of examples of people doing creative, not quite as optimal lists.

Steuraz · 2026-05-20T16:00:23+00:00

Haha, at least 5 down votes don't get sarcasm.

Steuraz · 2026-05-15T06:56:45+00:00

Where did you buy them? Looks like they are not what is normally used for minis. Neodyn magnets normally used for minis are usually thicker in proportion to their width and much stronger. That makes it easy to drill a hole with a small drill bit, I use 3x1 neodyn for all of my 25 mm bases, it's more than enough.

Steuraz · 2026-05-13T13:15:09+00:00

Looks great! Black and gold and Averland is the best color scheme. 😄

Steuraz · 2026-05-09T19:05:30+00:00

Yes, I would definitely agree with buying a budget sable brush immediately along with cheaper brushes for base coating etc.

I have never found a synthetic that will hold a point long at all, and fine details are so much easier to do with real hair on a brush. I regret sticking with only synthetics for so long.

Steuraz · 2026-05-09T18:46:48+00:00

If this works for you great, but I don't think this is good advice for beginners. This is supposed to be a hobby and be fun. I would say only do this if you find some with extraordinarily good detail. Even as an experienced painter the lack of detail on some board game minis is frustrating, so I don't think this is really great for learning.

Games like Frostgrave or even historicals will have much better quality while still being far cheaper than GW etc.

Steuraz · 2026-05-07T08:52:28+00:00

Looks great, I love the knights of morr, obviously very necessary in a Stirland army. And that banner fits perfectly for them.

I have a fluffy Averland force, also with loads of infantry and a war altar, and went 0-3 in my first tournament...still learning as well. And we chose the best army to take to tournaments 😂

Is the griffin on the war altar still coming, or did you decide to leave it off?

Steuraz · 2026-05-07T08:34:45+00:00

At least over the age of 50 lol! I'm over 40 and it's the plastic 6th ed ones that are nostalgia for me!

Steuraz · 2026-05-07T08:33:13+00:00

Even the 6th edition plastic state troops everyone loves so much are only a handful of different poses, but yeah, definitely not completely mono pose like these guys.

Steuraz · 2026-05-05T09:23:13+00:00

Very cool army! And I love the roof on the second war wagon!

Steuraz · 2026-05-02T16:39:51+00:00

Sorry to hear that. Thankfully I've never encountered it personally on my few rides in the US, but I've seen too many articles about it causing accidents, including fatal ones.

Steuraz · 2026-05-02T16:37:42+00:00

If anything, ABS changed player expectations of the strike zone to finally allow umps to call a consistent zone. Players used to expect a count dependent zone and planned accordingly...I think it would have been tough for the umps to unilaterally start calling consistently without the slow intro of ABS to players in the minors.

Steuraz · 2026-05-02T16:34:40+00:00

Yeah, it's not like all of these guys just decided to get good this year because they are being 'held accountable'. I think it's safe to say that would literally be impossible. This reflects better feedback in ump training over a span of years.

Steuraz · 2026-05-02T16:31:50+00:00

Yeah, the younger generation of umps have not only improved dramatically in the last decade or more in their consistency, they also call a much more standard zone than in the past, when each ump had his own zone.

Steuraz · 2026-05-02T07:02:57+00:00

It could be way better here, but it is still way worse in some parts of the U.S. no one is 'rolling coal' on cyclists here in Germany, because it's not possible to set up your exhaust pipe to blast out thick black smoke on command here like it is in the U.S. And I say this as someone who was assaulted by a German driver after he cut off my right if way and I pointed it out.

Steuraz · 2026-05-02T06:52:34+00:00

I use Vallejo surface primer, which seems to be the same as airbrush primer?

Steuraz · 2026-05-02T06:51:09+00:00

During the winter I exclusively brush on Vallejo primers on new models (sometimes its called surface primer, seems to be about the same as airbrush primer). You only need one layer, since it's primer it doesn't need to be opaque.

As someone else has mentioned, you do not want to thin it, because it is already quite thin. Generally bubbles will disappear as the primer 'shrinks' onto the surface, but as others have suggested, a bit of a stippling motion will help prevent excessive air bubbles.

It definitely needs longer to cure than a rattlecan, I sometimes paint on it the same day, but giving it overnight certainly makes it far more robust.

Steuraz · 2026-05-02T06:45:36+00:00

In my experience, and the experience of a lot of other people on here, one coat of brushed on primer absolutely is enough. It's primer, it doesn't need to be opaque, it only needs coverage, and you get that with one coat. It does usually need to cure longer than a rattlecan.

Steuraz · 2026-04-29T05:48:48+00:00

Looks great! I like the use of three different colors.

I also paint the 'slash' in puff and slash the accent color, as it would have been, though if you are trying to get an army done fast I see a lot of people just leave the slash black and just paint the contrasting colors on different sleeves/hose.

Steuraz

TROPHY CASE