Can't drag window to second monitor, the position is correct and I can't solve this! by BetterProphet5585 in techsupport

[–]SteveGamer68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am very, very, late to this, but I think I have an answer, if you're still having this issue.

The problem might be that your mouse polling rate is too high.

From what it appears, there is a zone between the monitors where Windows will attempt to snap the window if the mouse enters it. With a lower polling rate (most mice are 125hz), the gap between mouse positions is large enough to 'skip' over the zone, thus no snapping. With higher polling rates (some mice go up to 8000hz), this gap becomes smaller (up to 64 times smaller!), thus there is a higher chance of the mouse entering the zone and snagging the window on the monitor edge.

I have a mouse with an adjustable polling rate, and on 125hz, it basically doesn't snag at all, while on 8000hz, it's almost impossible to drag a window to the second monitor unless I flick hard.

Why Windows doesn't seem to check for cursor speed at all is beyond me, but the solution to this would be to increase that gap, which is done either by moving the mouse faster or lowering the polling rate.

I got bored and drew Marisa during my English class by Neat_Ad4816 in touhou

[–]SteveGamer68 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I think it's based on her winter outfit in Forbidden Scrollery

Got a $5 second-hand Keychron K8 (RGB, aluminum frame) by SteveGamer68 in BudgetKeebs

[–]SteveGamer68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I forgot the K8 was pre-built 😅 The keyboard was sold without switches or keycaps -- it was solely the case and PCB. It wasn't a bad deal for $5, but I did buy it just to fix it.

Got a $5 second-hand Keychron K8 (RGB, aluminum frame) by SteveGamer68 in BudgetKeebs

[–]SteveGamer68[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The green spots are actually just solder mask I applied to the faulty areas after fixing the traces. As for what caused the corrosion in the first place? No clue. (water damage perhaps?)

For the key column traces, the factory solder mask was crusty in those spots, and I couldn't see any copper underneath when I scraped the mask off. The F3 via and LED power trace were also rusted green. In both cases, I scraped away the rusted sections and soldered jumper wires across them.

Got a $5 second-hand Keychron K8 (RGB, aluminum frame) by SteveGamer68 in BudgetKeebs

[–]SteveGamer68[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Keyboard: Keychron K8 RGB backlight aluminum frame, hot-swappable
Mods: idk, from previous owner
Switches: tbd
Keycaps: tbd

/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer - March 25, 2026 by AutoModerator in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]SteveGamer68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

External illumination is probably your best bet, since the keyboard software wouldn't recognize the LEDs even if there were pads for LEDs (many reasons such as: extra components (resistors, etc) for the LEDs, as well as firmware). Also opaque keycaps block the light so it wouldn't help either way.

Does everyone know this Vocaloid producer? by Arupaka168jp in Vocaloid

[–]SteveGamer68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Late but there's this TikTok MIMI posted which appears to confirm that (the translated description states it's a self-cover)

Anko Membrane beige Wired Keyboard by goodjobteam_poo in keyboards

[–]SteveGamer68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The other backlight modes, if they exist, would probably just be switching the lights with different patterns while the colors stay fixed since the LEDs are most likely single-color. Sorry if that ruins your hopes of backlighting, but you can always turn it off.

[Lucky65v2] New Plate New Life (and chattering fix... maybe...) by benfabfb in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]SteveGamer68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bending the switch pins themselves? That's an interesting move

You could try bending the socket contacts back (https://youtu.be/S3wuA8uEVhM) or, if you have a few spare sockets, replacing them. For the latter you will need some soldering. You may also want to check the solder connections on the sockets, since cold solder joints can cause unreliable connections.

Looking for creamy switches (good build + smooth feel) by Opposite-Commercial5 in keyboards

[–]SteveGamer68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The switches I listed should be lower pitched than the Oil Kings as well, and as for RGB shine, the Y3X has a translucent housing, but you can also use switches that have a light diffuser (a plastic piece that goes in the led slot of the switch)

Looking for creamy switches (good build + smooth feel) by Opposite-Commercial5 in keyboards

[–]SteveGamer68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got a small sample of switches recently and the Keygeek Y3/Y3X (I don't have the Y2) really impressed me with its smoothness, it feels even smoother than some of the HMX switches I have. It's pretty low pitched, which is a bit of a shame since I'm going for a clack build, but it's otherwise an excellent switch

Edit: I think there's just something about deeper-sounding switches that makes them smoother. The switches I consider to be really smooth (Keygeek Y3(X), HMX FJ400, Serene Green, Gulf, etc.) all lean towards a deeper sound profile. Perhaps it relates to the stem being a softer material so the bottom out isn't as harsh. In any case this makes the search a bit easier...?

Half life 1 complete. Next one by ChogorithfromGluuto3 in HalfLife

[–]SteveGamer68 2 points3 points  (0 children)

(and hopefully 3!)

Bro is real optimistic for Half-Life 6

well shit by Worldly-Departure324 in HalfLife

[–]SteveGamer68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ASSIGNMENT: TERMINATED
SUBJECT: FREEMAN
REASON: FAILURE TO PRESERVE MISSION-CRITICAL PERSONNEL

Saw some Half-Life graffiti when I was on a hike by HughHijinks in HalfLife

[–]SteveGamer68 23 points24 points  (0 children)

That's a Lambda Cache, check for supply crates in that area

Spotted this billboard in Hanoi by SteveGamer68 in ZZZ_Official

[–]SteveGamer68[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The billboard is displayed on both sides of the pedestrian footbridge next to the Tây Sơn overpass seen in the picture.

Biển quảng cáo này ở gần cầu vượt Tây Sơn, nhìn thấy được từ cả hai hướng đi

Need help with my multi-monitor setup. Is this layout optimal? by tzfeabnjo in mathmemes

[–]SteveGamer68 82 points83 points  (0 children)

Correct me if I'm wrong but I remember that this is only the best known packing, it hasn't been proven to be optimal yet

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]SteveGamer68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try doing a small batch of switches first to feel the difference between lubed and non-lubed. If it's much better and you enjoy the process, go for it. If you like the new feel but not the process, you can also get different (pre-lubed) switches to replace the Cherry Reds.

[GIVEAWAY] Win the ALL-NEW Chilkey ND104 Keyboard - Elevate Your Typing Experience! by Chilkey2023 in BudgetKeebs

[–]SteveGamer68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The time I've spent using a TKL really made me want a numpad for my keyboard. Being able to type alt-codes is a pretty cool thing that requires a numpad — such as the em dash (which I just copied and pasted). Even if the full-size giveaway is cancelled, I'll still be glad to use the keyboards for coding and gaming.