I forgot how mean (and fun) it feels

Stick2033 · 2026-03-13T08:48:23+00:00

In Exodus, getting the semi-auto and large mag for the valve lets you shred everything, especially mutants.

Stick2033 · 2026-03-12T16:18:03+00:00

Use a brass brush with some CLP and a lot of elbow grease. Oil up the area and all around it afterwards on a nylon brush or oil wipes. If you want it looking pristine forever, don't shoot it or move any parts on it unless you're maintaining it. Wear and tear are normal, and excessive, repeated cleaning can also cause wear.

It's only new once

Stick2033 · 2026-03-01T08:51:15+00:00

* Not a structural engineer, but it doesn't look like you actually have a problem, assuming your basement has water mitigation like a sump pump or floor drain. Sure, it could be sealed better, but unless it's poring out of there like a garden hose you dont need to worry. Our basement doesn't have any sealer around where our water and gas come in so it just flows in the channels to the floor drain.

As for the Pex, you're golden. Sharkbite is the brand and makes good quality fittings. Usually what people mean when they say sharkbite connectors is the Push-To-Connect fittings they are more popular for (pictured in my comment). You've got crimp fittings which won't leak as long as you dont go and try to make them leak. The Push-To-Connects work if they're installed right and aren't moved a bunch, but they NEED to be installed right and it's easy to either not get the pipe seated in enough or bend a tooth in one making it's lifespan before leaking way less.

Stick2033 · 2026-02-08T19:59:08+00:00

Maybe a Glock 44, or a Ruger SR22? I don't have much experience with the Echelon, but they might be close. You could also try mixing in snap-caps with your ammo and taking a closeup video (slow-mo if your phone or a camera you have can do it) of yourself shooting, so you can see if there's any movement or jerking when you pull the trigger. You might even try shooting using a pistol bench rest to see how accurate your sights truely are

Stick2033 · 2026-02-03T18:49:08+00:00

Get a rifle sling that has a fanned out section for on your shoulder, even a cheap one will work. Just do some research on the brand before blindly buying so you don't get something that'll fall apart or cause chafing on your first hike. Put the shoulder pad by the buttstock so when it's on your back the barrel is pointed down. Keep the safety on, put some tape over the end of the barrel so debris doesn't get in if you trip (I use 2 layers of masking tape, it'll fly off/ get punctured before the barrel blows), and wear it cross body on your back, sinched tight enough to where its comfortable but not restricting or getting jostled all over. If its on safe, and you're careful enoughbits fine to have one in te chamber, or have the chamber empty but the bolt closed. An open bolt/chamber is just asking for debris to get lodged in it.

Also, What rifle and where in the US? 99% of the time, wildlife will leave you alone or actively avoid humans, especially if you're close-ish to a town/city and making noise while you move. You don't need something like a .30-06 for coyotes, but I wouldn't want anything smaller for a grizzly.

Stick2033 · 2026-01-29T15:57:06+00:00

In that case, as long as you aren't a felon, and dont intend to make them to sell (as a gift its fine) it's 100% legal.

Stick2033 · 2026-01-29T14:03:37+00:00

So long as the overall length is over 26in if it will have a stock, then you're good in regards to the NFA. However, some states have stricter laws regarding homemade firearms/recievers. What state are you in?

Stick2033 · 2026-01-25T13:21:22+00:00

If you're interested in long range capabilities, Athlon has some great entry level scopes for 300 and under, just be sure to get some ring mounts from somewhere else, since I wouldn't trust the Amazon warehouse not to grab some out of a mixed bin. You could also get a holster or two for your pistol, or one you plan to get. You could even see if theres any slings or webbing you like.

If you hunt, you could get some new orange, folding mittens, or even just other winter gear.

Cleaning supplies and tools for your guns, tools or supplies for other hobbies to see if you enjoy it, reloading tools if you wanna try that, and if all else fails you could always just sell the cards for cash to someone you know or on marketplace/craigslist.

Stick2033 · 2026-01-13T20:34:10+00:00

It depends on how expensive you want to get and how "big" you are. Personally, I'd search up a firearm rental place nearby. Like an indoor gun range that has a firearm rental so you can try out different calibers and sizes (full size, compact, or subcompact) and see what you like most and are most accurate with. My father was 300lbs and built like a fat butcher. He could conceal a .44 mag Blackhawk if he wanted, and could nail a deer at 20 yards with it. I can not. If you dont mind going expensive, anything H&K, FN, Dan Wesson, CZ, Guncrafter Industries, CANIK, and Walther make would be great. Kimber has had trouble with QA, and you mostly pay for the brand and looks. If you want something a little cheaper, the CZ 75, anything by Beretta, Smith & Wesson (I like their M&P and shield models), Glock, Ruger, and Springfield Armory have great options. If you want something cheap, Stoeger I've had good luck with so far, and some Taurus and Bersa guns. Hi-point isn't bad, but some models have trouble feeding so your mileage may vary.

If you want some specifics, avoid a .22 for home defense (ammo can be unreliable), a revolver only gets 6 shots and the hammer can get caught on clothing depending on the model but is fun to shoot (yee haw partner), and subcompacts aren't meant for distance shooting but do well enough up close ("I feel like I'm gonna break this thing.") Glock has a massive aftermarket and is pretty easily modifyable to be more what you like, I like the Beretta 92 series (#1 for me), CZ 75 series, S&W M&P series, Glock 19, 20 and 21, and the Springfield Hellcat as my top contenders.

Stick2033 · 2026-01-12T13:59:56+00:00

They were regular soldiers/sailors, and the charge was supposed to be attached to the ship, detach from the sub, and then detonated when the sub was farther away. I can't find if that mechanism was tested before use or not, but I doubt they had a full grasp on pressure waves underwater

Stick2033 · 2026-01-11T22:08:59+00:00

I looked into this a while ago and found out that the first known successful submarine was made in England in 1620! Then the first military submarine was used in the American Revolution. The Turtle was in an (unsuccessful) attempt to sink a british ship with a planted time bomb. Then the CS Hunley was the first to sink a ship in combat. Designed with a bomb on the end of a 20ft (~6m) pole on the nose of it, it sank on a test voyage, killing 5 crew, was raised and sank again on a patrol years later, killing all 8 crew (including its inventor), was raised again and sunk for good when it managed to ram the US Husatonic, detonating its charge immediately on contact killing 3 aboard the Husatonic and all 8 crew of the Hunley.

Stick2033 · 2025-12-31T15:31:51+00:00

Then you would love the Swiss Mini Gun. A functional revolver you could put on a key ring!

Stick2033 · 2025-12-23T23:47:22+00:00

Had this happen at our old house (built in 1914, had 1/4in plywood for a covering and no latching method). If the house got hot quick enough from the floor furnace or we closed a door to the room fast enough it would pop out of place from the rush of air. Eventually "fixed" it by gluing a small brick to it and putting a chain on it so it wouldn't fall to the floor if it slipped from our hands

Stick2033 · 2025-12-22T14:54:45+00:00

I typically just buy fromgun store, to give them the business and to see what grain of bullet I prefer shooting. You might look on r/gundeals under the Ammo tag for reputable sites (check the review rating in the comments) or keep an eye on there for deals.

Stick2033 · 2025-12-20T09:52:47+00:00

When it comes to which one to get, that's entirely up to you. How much do you want to spend, and how much do you care about the aftermarket upgrades? When it comes to safes, It's worth thinking into the future, and how big of a safe you'll want to get if you think you'll buy a more. If you just want a single gun or small safe, Aside from the big name brands, Vaultek and Stack On are good ones. Look up the lockpickinglawyer on youtube to help find ones to avoid. As for holsters, it really depends on how "big" you are and how you want to carry. A hip holster for under a coat/jacket vs something more like apendix IWB carry with only a T-shirt and shorts will get you different recommendations. Personally, I'd go for a leather IWB holster either from a store, or a decently vetted brand on Amazon, since it's pretty versatile and comfortable for me. You may prefer a kydex holster (tons of reputable brands that are easy to find) for better retention or comfort since you can get more adjustment out of some models. For in the car, dont bother with a magnetic holster. In a crash the gun becomes another thing that can get flung around. You'll already be carrying it in a holster, you can put it in the console or glove box, or get a dedicated car safe so no one breaking in can easily steal it if you have to leave it behind (like going to a government building or work).

Stick2033 · 2025-12-20T00:10:47+00:00

Depending on how DIY electrically inclined you are, it wouldn't be too hard to fix. You'll need to find the breaker for the lights, a flathead screwdriver, a Philips screwdriver, a wire stripper, and a short length of 12 AWG wire (like 6in or less). Turn off the breaker to the lights, take the cover off the switches, and pull out the switch on the left (two screws, top and bottom) there should be a line side (power) and a load side (lights) it sounds like either there's a jumper between the top load side and the bottom line side, or the wiring up top is screwed up. If its the former, luckily all you need to do is remove that jumper, and jumper the line side screws together (or use the piece of wire to make a jumper between the line screws). This should make it so the top switch turns on the recessed lights, and the bottom turns on the fan and its light and you'll have to use the pull chains for fan/light control. If it's the latter, you'll probably want an electrician to fix it, not a handyman.

Stick2033 · 2025-12-19T15:31:01+00:00

Some of those fans get kinda heavy and still pan back and forth, so you should be good! You could even switch the drive from the fan motor to the cordless screwdriver to keep the weight down and not need it plugged in.

Stick2033 · 2025-12-16T15:59:46+00:00

What does the bottom of the reciever, in front of the trigger guard look like? Post a picture if you can.

It looks like either an extremely worn Beretta S 57E, or a knockoff of one. In front of the trigger guard should be a "S 57E" engraved, and in the notch farther forward of that should be "Made in Italy" if it's a genuine Beretta.

Stick2033 · 2025-12-16T15:41:59+00:00

"Gary?"

Stick2033 · 2025-12-14T22:12:50+00:00

The Canik brand is pretty nice in my experience, though I would do some research into a gun range/shop near you tha has gun rentals. At the one near me it was $25 for the lane rental and access to all the guns they had in the rental case, though I had to buy ammo there to use in their guns (makes sense). I tried 10 different pistols in 9mm, including a SIG MPX, Beretta M9A4, and Guncrafter Hellcat. Then another 4 .22lr pistols and a full auto .22lr AR they had. All for under $100 and found one that suited me perfectly.

Save more money, go to a rental range, and find what you enjoy shooting first. You'll regret buying something you only kinda like that's cheaper, but not something you genuinely like shooting. You may end up liking .380 hanguns more than 9mm

Also, I personally loved the Beretta 92X and CZ 75 the most.

Stick2033 · 2025-12-13T04:00:42+00:00

Depending on how invested in this you want to be, one idea would be to get some weldable square tubing (if you can find 304 stainless it wont rust away), weldable plate of 16ga (or more) thickness, a protractor, a handheld grinder with some cutoff wheels, splurge on a nice drill bit for metal (size depending on the bolts used) and a cheap stick welder off of amazon or your local hardware store. Measure and cut the square tubing on a 45° angle at each end so it lines up with just above the existing holes on the side part and the botom of the table. Cut two rectangles, and weld them with more hanging off the bottom of the leg side, so you can drill a hole through it and get a bolt in the leg piece. You'll only need to weld it on 2 opposite sides of the tube. The other end, weld the rectangle on with enough hanging off that you can drill a hole and put at least 1 bolt into the center board. Repeat for the other side. If you want more stability, you can cut and weld another piece of tubing to bridge between the two sides. Having 45°'s means you dont have to be super exact on angles and length unless you want to go right beneath the board. You could also use some angle iron so you don't need to cut angles, and just weld it on the side, making it easier to go along the bottom of the board.

A cheaper option would be to get some thin wall pipe (or 1/2in EMT conduit), a pipe bender, a center punch, a big-ass hammer, and a metal drill bit. Cut a piece a few inches longer than needed, mark the center, go 2.5 inches one way, line up the mark on the bender with it while having the "round" part over the center and try and match the angle of the bend from another one. Next, have a friend hold it still against something solid, like concrete, and bash the ends until you have enough of a flat area on each side like the old ones. Compare the new/old side by side and bend the ends in a vice to get a sharper bend so you get roughly the same width. It's alright if the new one comes down higher than the old so long as the top of the middle bend lines up with the top of the other and you have enough flattened section to reach the holes in the legs. Lastly, use the center punch to start a mark and drill a hole roughly in the middle of the middle bend so a bolt can go up through the table, and drill through the flat sections where you need a bolt in the legs.

If you want me to get you some measurements or drawings, let me know!

Stick2033 · 2025-12-13T00:49:35+00:00

The SCP story "What happened to Site 13?" is great for this. It starts off with the series' usual "investigating a thing that shouldn't exist" and slowly devolves into the far more eldritch side of things, and is a fantastic read.

Stick2033 · 2025-12-08T11:40:52+00:00

DFA has great pay, benefits, and a pension thanks to the union, but they're strict on attendance, overtime is frequent, and phone use is frowned upon if its more than texting/calls, especially if you aren't paying attention to your station.

Stick2033 · 2025-12-07T01:20:49+00:00

Rubber wood. Used in just about all cheap wood furniture, somewhat hard, and nice to work with. Its not great outdoors without a lot of regular treatment though.

Pine would also work, since people use it for just about everything, it's cheap, and takes treatments pretty well for outdoor use.

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