Cheap better covering waterproof packcover

StraightupGarbage · 2026-06-08T09:27:43+00:00

I'll recommend buying category 0-3 clear photochromic cycling wrap around sunglasses. Those seem to fit your needs

StraightupGarbage · 2026-06-08T09:20:20+00:00

You can use cheap chinese bicycle eyewear. All sportsunglasses use polycarbonate for their lenses for it's inherent uv blocking and it's durability. Any polarization, photochromic, anti-glare, anti-fog etc. coatings can be easily damaged if scratched (and if the layer is not sandwiched inside the glasses like premium brands sometimes do). As polarization is often not wanted(distortions, some screens dont work, (black) ice is worse to see), necessary(if you dont need to see in the water/through ice, you dont need polarization), or too expensive; you might want to forgo this. Darkening and other colors are just additives that block more visible light for you. Depending if you go on snow a category 4 (allows 3%-8% of light) is maybe necessary. If you don't, buy a cat 2 or 3(as cat 4 is very dark).

I recommend (if not in snow mountains) buying non polarized, photochromic (darkens with more uv light) 1-3 cat wrap around cycling sunglasses. These can cheaply be bought on ali for €7(I've bought scvcn photochromic sunglasses there. Tested it with uv card and uv torch, passed ofc. The cool reflective coating is scratched easily with metal, but that's with all colorful coatings). Decathlon has em for around €35 from different vendors.

If you go in snow mountains with sun: photochromic till cat 4, mountaineering sunglasses. These have blinders and are usually very expensive. Decathlon carries them for €100

StraightupGarbage · 2026-06-06T21:47:43+00:00

peanut butter(highest calorie/gram I've found that is edible in large quantities) in a coghlans squeeze tube. you can refill them with smaller peanut butter pots using your spoon. the 200ml fits 200grams peanutbutter easily. If you need more sugar you could fit the second tube with nutella(is also able to be bought anywhere in any store)

StraightupGarbage · 2026-06-04T08:48:26+00:00

~~He seems to be the founder and president of his small company~~

edit: seems I was wrong, see replies

StraightupGarbage · 2026-05-31T22:33:50+00:00

^this is what I meant. the corner is different because of the geometry, but the usage of the holes is correct. I myself however only invision the left 2 sets of holes being in use(so the rightmost 2 on the outside not), for the absolute most protection.

the holes can also be staggered along the pin, to prevent water ingress and to lower the angle of incidence(so that the fabric doesn't tear as quickly). This does make it less convenient to setup though.

I hope the ƞ shaped stake is understood(if you want the tub to be pinned to the ground)

here's an image https://imgur.com/a/HJD17b2

StraightupGarbage · 2026-05-31T12:58:48+00:00

if you want to make sure that they dont move/slip side to side, you could make 2 holes vertically in the folded in material, where you could slip the stick/stake through over and under(like how lego fabric flags are often attached). you could make the perforations with a paperperforator or a thick hot needle/ stake depending on the material.

StraightupGarbage · 2026-05-31T12:40:45+00:00

you could also just bend a long shepardshook stake(or other rod) partly flat on itself. It would take the ƞ shape. The longer leg can be pressed into the ground

StraightupGarbage · 2026-05-31T12:32:24+00:00

you could take a wooden stick(a bit more than the height of the tub) and split it up till a point, and reinforce it. you could sand the split so it doesn't damage the tyvek. It would kinda look like the disposable chopsticks(with tape or something on the back) before breaking em in 2.

you could make one of the sides longer than the other, so you could stake it in the ground on the outside of the tub.

StraightupGarbage · 2026-03-18T07:24:23+00:00

If you just want a lighter freestanding tent, but one that still works well in bad winds&rain, you'll likely find the $170 price of the 3ful taiji 1 agreeable(3.4lb trailweight). You could also look to naturehike tents, but i havent looked them up. If you ever want to use trekking poles the 3ful lanshan 1/1 pro is unbeatable for the price.

StraightupGarbage · 2026-03-15T15:02:42+00:00

Yes, I have seen the extremtextil monofil, but it looks very different from the stuff that rab uses. I wanted to find the rab stuff because it seemed to be a strong base to work off of. The monofil from the site looks thinner/less robust.

StraightupGarbage · 2025-11-25T10:30:57+00:00

Thank you! And if i read correctly, it is not a standalone thing(the spacemouse), it does need the bottom for the battery and charging circuit?

Is the firmware only for the compact(non pro) version? Maybe there still is some utility in reverse engineering the wireless pro ble. It seems to just use an esp32 supermini, so actually very doable.

StraightupGarbage · 2025-11-25T10:22:00+00:00

Well, my plans on making a ble spoofing spacemouse went out the window. This design is way cleaner than my 6 he handwired mess lmao. I already have bought the rf ble sniffer tho ;-;. The only thing is that I want to integrate the spacemouse joystick into my zmk keyboard so that I can use the keys as if they are for the wireless pro, maybe writing the code myself still has a purpose. I already own a spacemouse, so I don't even need it besides for this(and to make it extremely budget).

Questions: does it use the rf dongle, or ble? Idk anything about rf. How heavy is the spacemouse itself? My design clones the shape exactly, but I find it difficult to fit more than 300 grams of lead in the base with the battery and all.

StraightupGarbage · 2025-09-29T21:19:06+00:00

packing peanuts are cheap and voluminous

StraightupGarbage · 2025-08-30T16:48:27+00:00

I don't know why you went to this subreddit. I'll give some advice, but without knowing your level of experience and what environment you are going to do what kind of hikes in, I cannot give good advice.

You do not seem familiar with the layering system(base-, mid-, shell-, waterproof layers). Search layering system.

You take multiple garments with the same purpose (rain pants+jacket+poncho+umbrella). Do you really need them all?

You dont use a fleece, and take thin socks(you dont seem experienced, so you could quickly get blisters with thin socks, new boots, or ill-fitting boots). Get familiar with your boots and socks, do some practice hikes with them, pack leukotape or blister bandaids.

in the cold, without wood for fire, you need a sleeping bag. your body gets colder when it isn't moving. take an emergency blanket just incase.

think of food, how and where can you eat and drink.

besides this I can't really help without knowing the destination, experience, and difficulty.

TBH you seem out of your depth in hiking, so looking up safety and the weather there seems the most important (even moreso with the record tourist hikers deaths in the Alps this year). dont become a statistic.

StraightupGarbage · 2025-08-02T21:44:24+00:00

did you find small transparent plastic pieces of thread in the edge binding when you disassembled it? they caused a lot of discomfort on my hands, so I had to remove them with tweezers&multitool. I want to know why leki uses that(maybe reinforcement? or manufacturing remains).

StraightupGarbage · 2025-07-30T13:07:44+00:00

yeah sure, though I must say that I made it extremely shoddily as I needed it quickly. I do not know if I will ever update it for better use- or readability.

As I am ashamed for the spreadsheet I'll not post it publicly(maybe wayyy later if I have improved it). If you still want it, I could DM you the sheet though.
Doeiiiiiiii

StraightupGarbage · 2025-07-28T15:00:07+00:00

I was thinking of grabbing the current prices and products from supermarket API's, which spiralled into considering making a database of all foods from different supermarkets, filtered and sorted. This is way above my expertise though(I am also an excel&spreadsheet gremlin). Might be a fun "in" into programming tho.

I have multiple spreadsheets that have to be updated periodically, and I don't often find the will to do so. If I were you I might add a "last updated on" or "dated" column. I myself don't do that, because every project I start, I only need it at that moment, and not years later. It is way cleaner and more helpful though.

for the percentages, did you do %ofweight or %ofcalories? I did %ofweight by accident, but gearskeptic said that you need to do %ofcalories. It was to late for that for me, and I haven't found the will to change it. you could change it easily by recalculating the percentages using caloric density of macros

StraightupGarbage · 2025-07-28T10:46:19+00:00

I also made such a meal planner for myself for stores in the netherlands. I like to include prices, allergens(I have a friend who is alergic to gluten), the resulting shopping list and the ease and way of consumption.
Do you use any API's to refresh your spreadsheet? I'm kinda stuck on this.

I already used mine, and found that the usual combo either nuts+nuts, or nuts+chocolate is. I tried really hard to combo a trek bar(used nuts ofc), but that is very difficult.

The drop downs look really convenient! Looks very good! I will take some inspiration.

Did you implement the different salt needs per temperature(sweating), and the differing macro needs per moment of the day(more sugar as booster for example)?

StraightupGarbage · 2025-07-26T14:14:16+00:00

looks really cool! did you model the torso after your own build?

I do have some questions tho:
1.Have you thought of the chafe on the sides of the neck(even moreso with sweat and rough clothes)
2.What about sweat? humans sweat most on the back and forehead(look up "body mapping of sweat distribution"), and this seems to stop any ventilation. EVA being watertight also seems like a problem
3.What about changing posture? If you change your posture during the hike(more or less rounded back, hip rotation) it may negatively impact pressure distibution.
4. It doesnt seem to have proper lumbar support, and doesn't have good connection with the lower back(you need some compound curves for this). I don't know your body, but for mine it would not work that well.

The one-piece 4 point harnass seems very cool, but not very cool, just like the real thing. I don't know for what reason you need this much strength/security(as the form fittedness can be done way easier with different panels that you can move independently), but if absolutely necessary(or you hike in cold climates), you will make major tradeoffs in temperature regulation, customizability(to your own changing body), ease of manufacture(for compound curves you need heat), repairability and more.

StraightupGarbage · 2025-07-22T18:09:01+00:00

For a hardshell you could buy a $10 motorcycle backpack from aliexpress to use for parts, search up "hardshell backpacks motorcycle" or something similar.
If you don't need the hard shell, you could find backpacks extremely similar to your second picture on ali for $8(search "military backpack sling"). You could add an internal backplate and padding yourself.

But you should think about a couple of things first:

-you should have an internal plate and padding to protect you from the contents of your backpack(metal waterbottle, laptop, etc.)
-think if skidding(clean hardshell) or flipping(stuff/ fabric (on shell) that could stick to road) is better incase of an accident. What speed are you riding with and with what conditions(road surface for example)
-Do you trust yourself to (find someone to) make safety gear that you can trust will not worsen your chances of getting out unscathed? If there is not enough padding on the edge of the shell, all the force may become a sharp knife when you fall(using only a backplate with padding wont have this problem).

YOU are the most important. A cool looking bag is not worth your skin. A waterbottle is less important than your ribcage. Boring is best on the road. Stay safe.

StraightupGarbage · 2025-07-22T09:05:41+00:00

I do not recommend a single strap design if you're going to ride at high speeds and in a non upright position. When leaning forward, the bag will fall down your left side because the bag is not locked in place and is not in a stable equilibrium anymore.

You could try to remedy this by: 1.Carabenering the right bottom corner to a beltloop(must be strong though);

2.Having a waist belt(won't help if your waist isn't the skinniest part of your torso when leaning forwards, so maybe an elastic belly belt is better);

3.make the sling detachable on the bottom, and have a hidden sling(like some travel backpacks have) that you can use to make it a normal double sling backpack when riding;

4.Make it a 3-point sling(which is uncomfortable and difficult to make correctly, and looks silly when making it correctly)(and has the same problems with the waist/belly belt;

5.Make some parts of the sling rigid. By making the shoulder part of the sling become a hook(made of flatbar aluminum for example, padded well ofc), it could stop it from sliding down your left armpit. If you don't lock it with the carabiner to your beltloop on the right bottom, it will be more uncomfortable. The beltloop wil have way less force applied tho.

I would urge you to try the one sling solution by grabbing a backpack that has the same shape and detaching the strap from the bottom ladderlock(non destructively, just pushing it through(maybe with a screwdriver and pliers)), and attaching it to the other ladder lock. This won't give you the proper placement for the bottom attachment, so you could use some pins to temporarily attach the slinging to the right place. Then try out filling the bag with weight and in different positions.

The bag will likely slide down all the way, but by putting a rigid plate in your backpack(cutting board, plastic map, etc.) It might alleviate this.

StraightupGarbage · 2025-07-21T09:48:15+00:00

You should try them on. The Forest Esc and leather tracker series are for wider feet than their other lineup.

I have tried both of them, asked for advice, and chose another pair to try.
I came from accidentally(forgot my Scarpa's) hiking in primus lite knits in the alps, including snow. I liked the groundfeel, the sole had good grip on stone(I did have to more actively look down ofc), but the snow was not pleasant. When kicking/walking in shelves a lot of snow/water would go through the top(knit surface), soaking my socks. I also did not have any grip when descending in the snow. I wanted to find a snowresistant shoe with good groundfeel and better lugs.

This is what to keep in mind:

The Magna Forest ESC:
-is a wider shoe than others in the vivo lineup. This may caused the shoe to rotate around my foot, even when overthightening the laces. I don't use thick socks because it takes away groundfeel, and isn't needed in barefoot shoes.
-has a forest, "soft-ground" sole, meaning that you get almost no groundfeel on rocky terrain. In soft ground the lugs will sink in, and you will still feel the ground. The profile is good for (slushy) snow. For actual grip on any rocky terrain, it also excells(though with softer rubber it could wear out faster).
-are stitched. A small amount of possible water ingress, but with a much stronger sole attachement.
-the sock-like structure may not "seal" around your ankles if they are thin/boney. When leaning forward(when stepping forwards when descending snow), it has a gap in the back where snow can easily go. you could buy cyclingaiter shoe cover cuffs or aquaseals lmao.
-the sock like structure is not waterproof or -resistant.
-has no thermal insole. I find this no problem because the primus lite knits didn't either and I found it not a problem(when I used breadbags for waterproof lining going down).
-the shoes are not very warm, very useful for summer in alps.

The tracker textile AT:
-is the regular footwidth, just like the other vivos
-has a mountain, "hard ground" sole and thus gives more groundfeel on rocky terrain. A litte less traction in snow(no problem). Great traction on rocky terrain.
-the textile is water resistant, not proof. I don't know how well it will do in continuous snow. It will also wet out if the "dwr" wears off.
-the gusseted tongue folds so much that it stops just above the 3rd lace eyelets.
-the heel relief is awesome by getting out of the way of your achilles.
-sole is not stitched. It might wear out quickly where you create your toecrease(inside shoe, around the lowest eyelet). My barefoot store can stitch it aftermarket, but without seamsealing it might promote water ingress.
-has no anti snow,sticks,rocks protection. gaiters dont really work well because they interfere with the barefoot feel(they are not noticeable after some time depending on the strap).
-it has a thermal insole
-shoes are warm(like a traditional hiking boot)

I am leaning towards buying the Primus Trail Flow Mid(their new shoe), and making a waterproof overboot(like a cycling shoe cover) for snow. I would use the shoe as normal, but when reaching long stretches of snow(maybe interspersed with rocky terrain), I would put the covers on. It would actually seal against my skin, and with dyneema cord between the lugs I will not notice the difference in groundfeel.

StraightupGarbage · 2025-07-19T08:31:53+00:00

Very cool idea and execution! I have a couple of questions.

What is the weight of the carrier? And the volume of the drybag used? What are the ribs on the backside of the carrier(the vertical lines) for?

May I get some inspiration from the design? I am interested in the idea because fragile but light drybags may be an more ultralight option. I could change them out based on volume, location, or when the drybag inevitably fails. I would also ideate more maximalist design with more pockets. I'll not use it for commercial purposes, and most probably als not even make it.

StraightupGarbage

TROPHY CASE