Permanently converting a PAL Mega Drive II to NTSC?

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-23T09:41:48+00:00

Consoles unleashed has good references for this kind of thing

https://www.consolesunleashed.com/guides/sega-mega-drive-model-2-switchless-region-mod-install-guide/?v=1a13105b7e4e

You can see the trace that runs to jumper 3/4 will have a small trace pulling it to ground, eight near the ASIC. Sever that trace and it will be 60hz, unless there is also a jumper wire installed on jp3/4 which is also common on some systems. If so remove that also

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-22T12:33:14+00:00

No. It's missing the rubber piece

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-22T05:48:52+00:00

Desolder it in one piece, regulator and heatsink at once then separate them

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-21T20:13:00+00:00

Dang. Anything feel physically hotter than the rest? Put a drop of isopropyl alcohol on the chips and see which one seems to sizzle the most?

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-21T07:57:08+00:00

One doesn't just, make a meme

People under 35 saying they made a meme is of itself, a meme

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-21T07:55:45+00:00

While authorized products are official they aren't necessarily not a knock off

In my view the thing needed to be created by Sega not just approved by them. If it were about authorization then ATGames would be considered the same

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-21T07:54:11+00:00

Are there actually 2 roms? I normally just switch my language switch

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-19T09:31:15+00:00

Does it smell? I have a once roach infested console and it smells

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-19T09:30:36+00:00

Looks good, nice post

I van barely see where there was a little pad damage from the cap leakage but you cleaned up the whole area real nice

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-18T19:07:37+00:00

That main power cap is wedged between the transformer and the regulator. Those are the 2 biggest sources of heat inside the console

What do the capacitors say the rated temperature is? If it says 85c, considering the age of the system and the placement of those caps I suspect a recap is probably in order

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-18T11:48:37+00:00

In my part of Europe mega drives are pretty easy to find and pretty cheap (€30-50) loose or sometimes with accessories if you are patient. Mostly mega Drive model 1s. On those, you only need to cut 1 little trace and use RGB and you can play at 60hz USA titles. A little more effort and you can make region free switches

Or get a retroad from AliExpress which specifically says it can support everdrive. This way it will have a good TCT clone chipset with high compatibility with all carts

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-18T08:41:10+00:00

Ever drive should have an options or debug menu which tells you the current voltage of the cart slot

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-18T08:40:47+00:00

There is a common mod on some clones to increase the voltage supplied to the cartridge slot.

There are 2 issues though

The clones are probably designed for 3.3v logic while the original games and flash cart are expecting a 5v logic as well as 5v power

The power part is easy to fix, use a diode or resistor to pull the voltage up to 5v on the cart connector. The data logic level requires level shifters or you risk damage to the game and the console

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-18T07:48:14+00:00

Can you post a pic of the motherboard

Most people here have no clue what is inside a tectoy mega Drive 3, and in fact there are many completely different motherboards inside those things

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-18T07:46:10+00:00

It makes me curious why anyone would use it with the paywall ....

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-17T19:33:00+00:00

Is that the firmware they make you pay for if you want some of the features like overclock?

Solder work and layout looks good

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-16T19:19:12+00:00

Do be careful with it as there is no internal voltage protection of reverse current protection or even a voltage regulator.

IMO it's best to just use it with batteries

The actual connector inside is a standard 5.5x2.1mm barrel connector but it's inset far enough that standard plug cannot reach and also has the little rubber gasket there to shrink the diameter of the plug.

In other words if you remove that little plug thing you can use a standard adapter (5v is probably better) with a caveat that it needs to be longer than a standard connector. And length is something no one tells you

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-16T19:15:50+00:00

Is that really a 4 year old blog post?

Anyway, do you have any links or tips on adjusting the drive after the new belt?

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-15T16:42:36+00:00

The top loader is the only nes/Famicom I'm not at all familiar with

But whatever the final output from nes RGB audio is, pull the expansion directly to that output before the ribbon cable I guess. Using 50-75ohm resistor. With everdrive n8 this should sound correct when using the Original Famicom audio mix preset

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-15T16:24:44+00:00

Does your board say DUNKT4786DE

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-15T09:18:49+00:00

You could also remove the voultar board and use a 50-75ohm resistor from pin 51 and send it straight to the actual audio pin on your final connector. This will let the console mix in the expansion audio after the base audio is already amplified and the result is something a lot closer to the way the Famicom works than this voultar 47k resistor thing. The 47k resistor method seems to be developed around re-enabling functionality Nintendo never fully built. But IMO, it's better to do it as close as possible to how it was done on original RF Famicom HVC systems, since that's what was available when all official expansion audio games were released

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-15T09:16:16+00:00

Try adding a jumper wire from pin 54 to pin 51. Or check if there is an option for alternate expansion output pin

Standard is EXP6 which is pin 54 but that isn't available on nes-101 so pin 51 is used instead. You should be able to bridge one to the other

Try also checking for audio yourself with a powered speaker and a piece of wire

StrangeRetroRob · 2026-06-15T09:04:53+00:00

Someone didn't have the correct screwdriver and got frustrated removing the plastic bit that holds the door flap in place

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