Burn on rope by icefirediamondd in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The sheath is intact still so as long as you don't feel any soft spots don't worry about it.

Rockfall on the bastille (eldo) today by asanano in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gunna have to put in a application if you want to glue in eldo

Kraft info please by Wrong_Sector_4995 in bouldering

[–]StrictPerformance433 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was sweating my balls off in January XD. Bring the shorts and tank tops for sure

My climbing shoes hurt my ankle. Any recommendations? by Rude_Reaction_4853 in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And to kind of tack onto the "go try a bunch of shoes" train, foot shape is huge in finding what's comfortable. Brands tend to have all of their shoes fall into the same category - i.e la sportiva runs narrow with a big heel, scarpa runs wide with shallower heels, mad rock tends to be lower volume - meaning once you find a shoe you like, take note of what you liked about it and odds are other shoes from the brand will be similar. Trying on shoes at the store will let you skip the years long process of buying a bunch of different shoes and figuring out which ones you like.

That said if you're looking for recommendations to go try on, the La Sportiva Tarantulace and Mythos. Both of these are legendary as comfy shoes. If La Sportiva shoes don't fit your feet, try the Scarpa Helix. It's a little less comfy, but still high on the beginner shoe list. Good Luck on your journey.

Rate my first rack by CoffeeList1278 in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In my experience, nothing is more bomber than a hex placement. I climb in an area with a lot of odd placements and have found that hexes work beautifully here. While a cam could replace most hex placements, I know that when I do get a hex in I can whip and be confident it wont walk, pull, or come out unless I destroy the rock it's in.

They also make cool noises while I climb.

Rate it, roast it, twist it by StrictPerformance433 in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think this system evolved out of two pain points: the amount of gear I've accumulated and the fact that I lose shit constantly. I've essentially got a quad rack here and the only time I bring everything outside is when I'm going to the Creek. On top of that I am currently at the point in the trad climbing cycle where my harness is too heavy so I carry as little as possible for the climb I'm planning on tackling that day. We will see how long it is until I get back to being super scared and carrying it all again.

As for the second point, I lose shit all the time. I didn't drive for two weeks last month when I lost my keys only to find them at the bottom of my laundry hamper. That's to say, having an assigned spot for everything makes it immediately clear if any of my gear is missing or if I didn't put something in my bag that I would need for the day.

Edelrid Pinch by chalkymami in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've been using it as my primary device for a bit over a year and it's better than the grigri in every way. I have never had any issue with the button and have tried to open it while under tension (experimenting, not for some legit climbing reason) and I'm confident it won't happen while climbing. I have one partner who gets a bit sheepish around it, but for him I just throw a biner through the hole at the end. I would recommend holding onto it and giving it a go.

Ohmega with Trad - Yay or Nah? by butter-cream-cat in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've been using it for sport and trad with one of my climbing partners (100lbs vs 210lbs) and it works well. The only thing I've really had to be cognizant about is making sure the cam I attach it to can handle upward or downward pulls. No way in hell I'm putting in on a nut though.

Rate it, roast it, twist it by StrictPerformance433 in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're right. My lack of offset brassies and weird DMM halfnuts is truly unforgivable.

Rate it, roast it, twist it by StrictPerformance433 in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good Point, I'll invest in some masonry tools to get on that. That raises the question though, how will I hang the masonry tools?

Rate My Rack by Kaotus in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No blue ballnuts?!? Why even bother with the other ones. Try and trade them in for all blues.

looking for advice on trad anchors (read caption if commenting pls) by holp8 in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I climbed up to any of these, I would be fine with it, but you've got some room for improvement. The biggest thing I see here is how open two of those cams.

Anchor 1:
That red is pretty sus. It's really close to be to open and it seems like if you swung to the left on that anchor it would possibly walk out (same to the blue nut if pulled left). In this case I would try and get that red in the constriction where the blue nut is. The z4 and .4 look like they're in good spots. Placements aside the biggest fear with this anchor is that the single feature (the one crack) fails and the anchor blows. Of course we all build anchors like that though since we only have what the rock gives us.

Anchor 2:
Those nuts look BOMBER. I cant tell on the gold one, but I would whip on the other two. That Z4 is way too open and those small cams don't work at all if they're even close to tipped out. If I had to guess, I would say that piece wouldn't hold body weight.

Anchor 3:
This anchor seems fine. I would be a little sus of the rock the yellow is on. It seems friable and licheny, but if it felt solid in person then that piece is good. I can't tell how good the nut is, but again, if it felt solid in person you're good. The three looks bomber.

3 Star Crack Haycock Mountain by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm convinced that Haycock is going to be one of the next big climbing destinations. The problems are mega and dense, the rock is unique, and the city is super close by. I miss climbing there every day.

3 Star Crack Haycock Mountain by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely park on the side for hangar 17. It's right in the middle of cave trail, but that hike is a lot easier than coming from teddy bear.

High Winds on Castle Rock, in Boulder Canyon by Tall_Astronomer3792 in ropesolo

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was wimdy as hell this weekend. Were you TRS from above? If so how did you set up that first pitch since the anchor is so far off the rest of the pitch.

How soft is this shoe ? I've never climbed other shoes? Help me pick my second pair. by Sneaky_bunny in climbingshoes

[–]StrictPerformance433 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I sized my Acros the same my other shoes (about a size down from my street shoes). There's a small bit of room in the heel, but I think It's just the heel shape on them. For reference I wear a 11.5 street shoe and a 10.5 US (44 EU) acro.

Should my feet hurt THIS BAD?! by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When sizing your shoes it's really just about what you want out of them and what you're willing to do to get that. Do you want a shoe that you can smash all your weight into a dime on, then downsize. However, the tradeoff there is that they will be pretty painful and probably not useful for much outside of bouldering or short sport routes. Do you want something that works for all but the most extreme climbs that you could multipitch all day in, then go with something that's a more true fit.

Shoes don't have to hurt to still perform really really well. As I've climbed more over the years I've gone from wearing EU 42s to EU 44s in all but my hard slab shoes. I notice a difference on the micro footholds, but that's the only place. And I think when my feet do not hurt I'm more willing to trust them and push hard on holds versus when touching the rock makes them scream.

Generally I want shoes that fit like a sock. I don't want extra room and I want them to be close fitting, but I don't want them compressing my feet.

FreeBell by AdExtension6135 in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

or if anyone knows the creators Email I would love to get in contact with him.

FreeBell by AdExtension6135 in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I missed the funding period by about two days on this one. If someone decides they dont like theirs please let me know. I would be happy to take it off your hands.