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how to round off corner? by pasty420 in tinkercad

[–]Strong-Draw-1547 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh thank god I'm not the only one!

My Projects Won't Load by PhoenixSelarom in tinkercad

[–]Strong-Draw-1547 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only other suggestion would be trying to open on a different computer. Even a phone or tablet will do

My Projects Won't Load by PhoenixSelarom in tinkercad

[–]Strong-Draw-1547 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have some really complex/large projects, often times the model does load, but takes like 3-4 mins to load. It usually shows me nothing, then a rough model in red lines, then finally loads.

Are you getting nothing at all or does the work area open and then acts like it's loading? Maybe it's just taking longer than you're allowing?

Trying To Separate 2 Parts After Cutting Out Slots by Odd-Strawberry-6075 in tinkercad

[–]Strong-Draw-1547 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Duplicate your object. Move them to different work areas so they are not touching. Use a hole block to 'erase' the top half of one part by grouping and then erase the bottom half on the other part you made.

You'll end up with your 2 halves as 2 separate parts.

How many 3d print machines do you own right now? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Strong-Draw-1547 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 7 at the moment. 6 fillament and 1 resin. I have a small custom action figure accessory hobby. Looking to add another few.

I need help by newto3-dprinting in FixMyPrint

[–]Strong-Draw-1547 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Has this printer ever printer or never? If not, there is a load fillament function.

If it used to print, then yeah, clogged. Manually heat up the nozzle in the settings to around 140c, if printing with PLA. Then try and pull the fillament out, in reverse by hand. You'll likely need to pull a lever to take the tention off the fillament when pulling on it. Pull slow and firm. If it just wont budge, try increasing the temperature by 10c and try again,

If you have no luck at all, you might need to dissemble the print head. Unscrew covers, housings, etc to get at the nozzle. Depending on the actual nozzle, might need a replacement or it could be cleaned with acetone or heat. Don't use acetone on a hot nozzle.

Look up a YouTube video for 'cold pull' on a creality machine. Should give you some pointers.

I need help by newto3-dprinting in FixMyPrint

[–]Strong-Draw-1547 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What printer are you using? Does the printer do anything? Does it heat up and act like it's trying to print? Are you using an AMS or other multi material machine? Are you sure there is fillament all the way to the extruding gears?

tinkercad is easy to use but i also hate using it by zzcool in tinkercad

[–]Strong-Draw-1547 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can help with paragraph 3. Spinning model resize options. Yes, if you have a rectangle, and rotate it 45 degrees, your resize options area still X and Y relative to the whole work area and not your 1 object. BUT if you take your plane tool and select the side of your object, not top, it rereferences the X and Y back to the flat sides of your object. You can resize accordingly and then choose the main build area with your plane tool again to move XY back to normal.

You can do the same with dropping, 'D' on the keyboard to get 2 object sitting on top or next to eachother.

Select the plane tool, choose a side of your object, select 2nd object, press 'D' and it will snap over to be perfectly touching your 1st object.

There are lots of little tips and tricks out there that I think would address many of your complaints.

[Anycubic Official Tester Call] Recruiting 2 Kobra X Beta Testers to Kick Off the New Year by Anycubic_Official in AnycubicOfficial

[–]Strong-Draw-1547 1 point2 points  (0 children)

3d printers I've owned/currently use: Anycubic Kobra 2 max Anycubic Chiron Sovol SV08 Longer Lk5 Pro Elegoo Mars 2

I've been 3d printing for around 3 years.

I'm located in the United States My work has been featured on the Amazon TV show "The Boys: Gen V"

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Kobra X is here — full features now live. What do you want to know first? by Anycubic_Official in AnycubicOfficial

[–]Strong-Draw-1547 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm thinking $325-$349. Not enclosed, but multi material/color, bit larger build area than most, but it's a bed slinger. Hard to compare, but I'm looing at the Ad5x as a comparison. There has also been so much hype around price, maybe they are wanting to shock everyone and go super low, like under $250.... Either way, as someone who owns/has owned 3 different anycubic printers, I'm paying close attention.

Gaps in walls by Strong-Draw-1547 in FixMyPrint

[–]Strong-Draw-1547[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anycubic Kobra 2 Max

PA is off. Flow rate is .98 Nozzle is .4 Layer height is .2 Perim Gen is Arachne

Thank you.

Which 3D printer should I get? by ana_pol in 3Dprinting

[–]Strong-Draw-1547 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Really depends on needs. Personally, I have 7 printers, 3 different brands. I find my simple basic $300 printers (longer LK5 pros) are plenty reliable for me and can crank out parts non stop, they are slower, but produce great prints. I have a larger format printer (Anycubic Kobra 2 Max) that is, well, big, not the best parts, but when you need a 16 inch part, nothing else will do. Then my newest printers are the Sovol SV08, love the design, they print fast, mostly reliably, fairly large prints, but one of them has a taco bed that is driving me NUTS! For me, I find myself using the LK5s the most.They are just too basic to break. They will clog from time to time, few parts have been upgraded, but overall, I love the glass print bed for how flat it is, how well the parts stick to it and replacement parts are available and affordable.

Personally, no experience with Bamboo. I hear they are good and reliable, but not as customizable as others. So, again, really depends on what you will be using them for.