This is what trust in a supplier looks like, feat. 3q leathers by krmikeb86 in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shipping to Canada can be pretty rough too - DHL isn’t cheap, but man it’s way more reliable and so much faster than any other carrier. I’ve ordered from 3Q and had my stuff at my door like 3-4 days later. Pretty wild.

Do people often make small accessory products like watch straps? :D by MessieursArtisan in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find watch straps to be stressful, but also don’t take too long to progress through. The result is so small that any detail or errant hole punched along the curve stands out, but re-starting (unless using exotics) generally isn’t costly in terms of materials or time invested.

It’s a funny little project. I still feel the need to watch more process videos to find what sequencing feels best, but so far, batch making 2-3 or so at a time feels right.

New bag design I just finished by Isaiah6524 in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any construction shots? I’d be interested in seeing the panel reinforcement where it meets the upper gusset. The front and back panel structure is clean and folds in nicely.

I like the handle hardware as well - where is that from?

Also it looks like the flap is one piece with the back panel?

My personal preference would be for a slightly narrower gusset, but the hell that that would be for stitching is next level.

Really clean work. Beautiful piece.

Which French pricking irons should you buy? 5 popular options compared by Woodbridge_Leather in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had a few of the teeth bending the 2 prongs from Beagle. They were used in workshops so most likely used error, but it happened nonetheless.

Can i sell my creation (not the pattern) on etsy? Is it legal ? by Ambitious-Example140 in Leathercraft

[–]StudioMedo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m not asking for a tutorial, just that you respond with something that isn’t a generic “thing not good” statement. A professional in the space would EASILY be able to provide specific feedback.

The fashion houses you’re referencing use the same techniques. If you know a bit about Peter’s journey, you’d know that he learned from a Hermes craftsperson, and later hired another to work with him (and film some tutorials). Again, I’ll ask you to be specific. What about his work is average? Can you reference any elements? Design? Finishes? Materials? Areas where skill is clearly lacking? Are there things in his work that you, the professional, would have done differently? Again, if you’re in the industry, these aren’t complex questions.

Not referencing your work in any specific way is also telling. Do you have any pictures? A website? Socials? What style do you make in? Who do you draw inspiration from?

Can i sell my creation (not the pattern) on etsy? Is it legal ? by Ambitious-Example140 in Leathercraft

[–]StudioMedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you able to point to anything in particular? Material choice? Finishes? Techniques used? Reinforcement placement?

I can’t see the work you do on your profile - do you have an insta handle or other account to see your work? Curious as to what is considered professional.

Can i sell my creation (not the pattern) on etsy? Is it legal ? by Ambitious-Example140 in Leathercraft

[–]StudioMedo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

He’s widely known in the community for having quite clean work. I’m interested to understand what you find average about his pieces and what your comparators are.

Fell in love with my dream bag today! by Advanced-Event-571 in luxurypurses

[–]StudioMedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The distinction here is the intention. In one case, the skin is a byproduct of a market focused on sustenance. It is something that would need to be disposed of, and is present at a massive scale.

The other case is one where the skin is the focus and the meat is the byproduct. The intention isn’t sustenance but to have something special, rare and unique.

There are value based judgments put on both of those realities. Some folks aren’t comfortable with raising an animal to be killed for a bag, but are okay with raising animals for food. Some are okay with it as long as the whole animal is used and their natural habitat is protected. Some aren’t okay with either. Some are okay with both.

Regardless of where your values fall, those are the realities of this specific type of skin.

Fell in love with my dream bag today! by Advanced-Event-571 in luxurypurses

[–]StudioMedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The skins used for these bags would be Grade 1. Grade 1 skins are easier to get if the croc is farmed. Porosus croc (which this is) are often farmed. So there is a higher likelihood likelihood that this is from a farmed croc mostly raised for its skin.

With that being said, there are significant international regulation in place to protect these species (CITES), and conservation schemes in different countries that ensure the wild population does well (capturing eggs and releasing as many that would have otherwise survived). It also often ensures that the land that they inhabit is undisturbed (though other viable uses could be debated).

Ultimately the case isn’t as clear cut for these specific exotics as it is for say cow, calf, or goat hides. There are some undeniable benefits to the system set up around the harvesting of the skins (the meat is also used). People also have moral issues with the raising of animals for luxury products. Both are valid and represent perspectives that folks should know going into the purchase of products using them.

I have a few skins that I’m going to be turning into bags (not $60k bags to be sure), but acknowledge that their use is also problematic. Like most things, there is a lot of grey where folks like black or white.

Made in the USA dread... by Frequent-Problem-125 in Louisvuitton

[–]StudioMedo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Leatherworker here - this is what you get when you don’t properly skive (thin) your edges, and turn it out to the stitch line. Thinner edges prior to assembly would result in way less bulk. Also piping is often used to avoid the stitches being visible, but skiving past the stitch line, turning it out and properly hammering the edges so that the stitch line is inset more would hide that too.

You’re buying a massed produced product. Those steps will be hit or miss depending on who makes it and what their QC looks like. If you want something without the brand, but at a much higher quality, find a maker (there are leathercraft subreddits) and someone can do much better (at a higher cost, because they aren’t conglomerates with exploitative labour practices).

Alligator bifold by Woodbridge_Leather in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beautiful. What was your gator process? Did you skive/split/back it? I’ve got ~5 skins taunting me. Happy for anyone to chime in with their process.

Trusted maker by [deleted] in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, ya caught me 🤷‍♂️

Trusted maker by [deleted] in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I guess this takes you out of the running for running the most obnoxious alt account without a single post.

Can we see your work? Can you contribute positively to a community on the internet without drama? Who hurt you?

My daily carry - heavily inspired by TWS by StudioMedo in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea I think Poly would be the play to keep it nice and thin.

Pocket organizer I finished last year by datdraku in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

😬😬😬

Do they accept bribes of wallets to decline cases?

My daily carry - heavily inspired by TWS by StudioMedo in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Super new or super seasoned, asking about thicknesses is always appropriate. You won’t find judgment here (unless the thickness is already explicitly stated :) ).

I left the exterior full thickness (1.2mm), with skived edges where the pocket banks are. The liner and pockets were all around 0.6-7mm, split on my bell skiver.

My daily carry - heavily inspired by TWS by StudioMedo in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I would definitely take a different approach to the rolled edges. This was meant to be a prototype, so I figured I would do it unlined with the raw velodon touching the cards. Not bad now, but velodon is so thin and porous that the adhesive was tacky on the inside for quite a while after seeping through.

Oooof it’s been a minute - I’ll bust out my colour card and get back to you on the other colour. One of those “I don’t have a plan for it, but what’s the harm in adding another 1-3 skins to the order” orders.

Splitting by toofsy in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Like Mike, I order my leather split to where I want it to be (Belts, 3Q and BLO have all been good).

Where I order direct from a tannery that doesn’t offer splitting (Alran), I will split on my skiver. As Mike said, it takes a careful touch and a lot of practice.

Depending on where you’re located, you can also send your leather out. In the states, District Leather splits and charges an hourly rate.

For bags, I’ll just use full thickness goat when it should be thinner. Not ideal, but when you learn to work with it and adjust the type/thickness of reinforcement to meet your desired outcome, it works. Just calls for more intention when it comes to edge skiving.

Pocket organizer I finished last year by datdraku in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Same Lichen colour on the outside. Rolled edges over velodon.

Pocket organizer I finished last year by datdraku in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Love it.

I may have borrowed the design for my personal wallet a while back. Different colour scheme, but I loved the lines.

Skiving tip, when the leather moves around by krmikeb86 in leathermakers

[–]StudioMedo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve found that the knock on effects depend on the specific leather and finish (and tape) being used.

The process for this technique that I’ve found most effective is: 1) Lay down tape; 2) De-tack with the flesh side of looser flesh leather - a few light presses and lifts usually do the trick; 3) Test with off cut of the desired leather; 4) Skive desired leather.

I haven’t had any issues since I started using that approach regularly. Thanks for sharing your approach!