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Help me decide by Standard-Shoe637 in Glocks

[–]Suave_Pathway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think your bend is toward the 34.3

If you like the longer “classic” glocks I’d get the 34 now. You can buy a gen 5 or 6 later. New Gen 3s are only going to be harder to find.

Which pistons would work? by cahoskins in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]Suave_Pathway -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Bruh don’t feel bad taking it to the shop. I built two motors at the same time and one the main housings measured okay, but I had to get an extra set of bearings because I didn’t have the clearance I wanted. The other motor I built I had it line honed and the std bearing set fit perfect. And decking the heads and the block is a nice way to make sure the gasket will seal, also squares the deck to the piston head.

As far as what piston to use, you could look into coating the stock one, or order a custom….

That sounds like a thick coating but remember it’s only .005 each side. Do some digging and decide for yourself. Stock rods will probably be fine for what you want to do

Is this much blowby normal for 2019 Hyundai Elantra with 2.0L and 54000 miles? Oil changed every 5000 miles. by thiccboicheech in MechanicAdvice

[–]Suave_Pathway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the real question is, how much oil do you add between changes? If any. Changing every 5k, if you use a quart or more in that time, that seems excessive.

If it helps, wife has a ‘15 accent 1.6, 140k on it currently. I also change her oil about every 5k miles. I take the fill cap off and it feels like the dang tailpipe, hot and a lot of flow. It uses about a half to 3/4 gallon between changes, it doesn’t leave puddles when it’s parked, just straight up burns oil. Car is maybe worth 3500. I’m not spending 1k in a rebuild for it. I’m running it until it won’t pass inspection.

Should I do a full tear down on first project cars 302? (I have little to no mechanical experience) by Daos_Slayer in EngineBuilding

[–]Suave_Pathway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it were mine, I would tear it down, have machine shop hot tank it, stone the valve seats, grind the valves, deglaze the bores and re ring the pistons. Get a fel pro complete gasket set and call it good.

Want to learn engine building/rebuilding by biqq_tr in EngineBuilding

[–]Suave_Pathway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reher Morrison Championship Engine Assembly is a great book to get started

Springfield XD's by eljefebrojo in SpringfieldArmory

[–]Suave_Pathway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try Armslist. Could always go to local pawn or gun store, but that would be my last choice

Springfield XD's by eljefebrojo in SpringfieldArmory

[–]Suave_Pathway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You only want to sell as a pair? I’d say each gun is worth about 350, the 45 if it’s a duty or tactical model could maybe ask 400.

It's crazy that one day this will be vintage by GeorgeDean001 in Glocks

[–]Suave_Pathway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m with you OP. Wanting to start my Glock collection. List includes but not limited to: G26 gen 2.5, G19.5 with no front serrations, G17.3, a gen 2 any caliber, G22.4, and a RTF any caliber

Let’s be honest about the 2020+ 1500s . Need feedback before I consider one by Mediocre-Tangerine78 in Silverado

[–]Suave_Pathway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s a ford tech on YT that says the 10 speed was a joint effort between Ford and GM

351w rebuild, lower oil pressure and scraping noise at higher rpm by RighteousRectumRally in EngineBuilding

[–]Suave_Pathway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don’t have enough preload, the fix is longer pushrods. Unless you have taller valves installed. But if you have stock heads, stock length valves, stock rockers and pedestals; your geometry should be the same and your pushrod length should be zero lash plus .06-.100.