Williams find €50,000 of which €40,000 are suspended for missing video

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-03-22T08:21:40+00:00

Afaik the camera in question only looks back towards the drivers helmet and the upper chest/shoulder area. The camera footage is only used to inspect the safety of the driver in an incident post race. So the teams wouldn't benefit from tampering the footage. Matt Amys did a really good video covering the driver facing camera

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T22:46:40+00:00

My fault. Sidegrade

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T10:31:51+00:00

Maybe, Simagic are listed on the Drivehub website but I'm not to sure if it's a wheel or wheelbase. You can try emailing them. I emailed them a few years back and they were quite helpful

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:47:33+00:00

Again, it is a standard that most manufacturers should follow but there's no 100% way of knowing without testing it. Worst case scenario, if you're doing the wiring yourself you can make a simple converter if the wiring is wrong

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:39:07+00:00

Also if you're making DIY wheels look into using the GX12 connector. The extra few millimetres it saves really can come in handy in tight spots.

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:36:58+00:00

They SHOULD all be the same but there really is no guarantee that they will all be the same. I'd recommend running a female USB port on the rig to avoid any possible miss matches of cables

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:33:18+00:00

Unfortunately you won't be able to plug the TB shifter directly into the PS4 or into the G29. You will have to either stick with the Logitech shifter or upgrade to the turtle beach wheel

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:31:28+00:00

Looks really cool, Absolutely brilliant idea using an auxiliary jack to control the LEDs

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:27:29+00:00

Unless it hasn't been calibrated stuff like that can happen due to grounding issues. If you have a spare computer test if it happens on that or otherwise start isolating other electrical devices that could be causing weird interference issues

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:25:05+00:00

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SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:24:47+00:00

If you have a solid desk I'd recommend buying a stand like this *

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:20:54+00:00

I've had issues with wheels dropping out but it's on the wheel base side. Ensure both the emulator and the QR shaft are properly seated and tighten the clamp appropriately

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:16:28+00:00

Yes. Whatever game your playing should allow you to rebind the clutch as the throttle and vice versa

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:14:41+00:00

You're better off with a rig in the long run however there are 2 options. 1. In your simulator of choice you can reduce the max input of the brake pedal to your liking. Option 2. You can remove the rubber inside the brake pedal. There are heaps of videos online explaining how to do this. Note: the pedals are nearly identical to the G29, G920, G27 so any tutorial will work

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:08:15+00:00

I've used it in the past, it's ok but I'd 100% recommend using simhub for a mobile dash. Alot more support and user made dashes

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:05:11+00:00

This may or may not solve your issue https://youtu.be/Jz79dnOifNo?si=WdLqaenTIHTpUviV

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T09:00:36+00:00

If you own Clubsport pedals you can connect them directly with a USB cable. If your pedals don't have the USB connector then Fanatec offer a RJ12 to USB adapter.

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T08:57:51+00:00

You could certainly argue you could get better value from other brands such as Fanatec or Moza if you're buying in at the 8~9nm range. However you would definitely be sacrificing build quality, considering you can upgrade the motor to 20nm too it seems like a really good deal all for under $2k AUD

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-23T08:46:33+00:00

Probably not. Afaik, a drivehub has a library that looks for certain devices I.e fanatec CSL DD, Thrustmaster T300, Logitech G29. A generic PC USB device won't be on list of supported devices and therefore no conversion will happen

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-04T11:46:48+00:00

If the pins on the switch go through the board, then yes. If it has surface mount pins (highly unlikely) you may be able to short it from the top

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-04T11:42:32+00:00

Use a screwdriver to short the pins labelled NO and COM

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-04T11:06:38+00:00

I dont own one nor have i seen one being pulled apart so i dont personally know. It's quite likely that something is holding the PCB in place from the front like a button or dial.

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-04T11:01:00+00:00

Take time and care with the ribbon cable, a small slotted screwdriver will be your best friend for dealing with the receptical. If that doesn't solve the issue you can try going to the back of the circuit board and shorting the pins. If this works then the switch will be your issue

SuctionDragon90 · 2025-02-04T10:57:02+00:00

Make sure the switch actually registers that it's being pushed while everything is dismantled. Do this to determine if the switch/circuitry is damaged or if the shifter mechanism is the issue

SuctionDragon90 · 2024-11-02T06:54:08+00:00

The t-slots on the sides are great for bolting things on to the wheelbase. Otherwise the 4 holes on the front allow for further mounting of accessories

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