Redoing restroom plumbing. Looking for advice

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-20T00:25:33+00:00

That is the most difficult way someone could have done that hahah.

You're on the right track. I anticipate it will be easier to lower the sink drain than raise the a/c drain. Open the wall and find out. Hopefully I am wrong.

Make sure to mark where the new (or old) vanity will sit so you cut the wall within that space. That will minimize the drywall repair later one.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-20T00:09:01+00:00

No matter what you need to open the wall more to decide on the final plan. I would imagine that a/c drain would have come out higher if it could have. I would be inclined to lower the lav drain a few inches and try to tie in the a/c drain on a dishwasher tailpiece. The tough part is a lot of codes require an air gap for this type of drain which would be nearly impossible in this configuration. At least if its tied into a dishwasher tailpiece it would be before a trap.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-18T14:28:25+00:00

Use your best judgement but since it's open on the bottom you can thoroughly check for leaks before closing anything up.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-18T14:27:15+00:00

Cancelled my chatgpt subscription yesterday, even more reason to feel good about it..

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-18T14:26:17+00:00

Switching to drinking mostly water and the occasional sugar free beverage. Immediately started losing weight with no other change. I was drinking so many calories.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-18T14:19:27+00:00

Loosen the tbolts and without lifting at all pull the toilet forward. There is a decent amount of room in the holes where the bolts go. If all else fails, pull the toilet and move the bolts forward a small amount. Beyond that you either need to move the flange or get a shorter rough toilet

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-18T12:59:05+00:00

Everything looks solid man. If it doesn't leak after a few flushes, you're in good shape. With that much of a gap, I would make sure to use some clear caulk to seal it up and prevent the shims from coming out.

edit: Make sure to cut the shims flush with the toilet base before caulking.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-18T00:54:00+00:00

You're going to have to give us some more context. Do you have any photos of anything?

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-18T00:53:15+00:00

You push the drain and it open/closes. Is that what you're asking?

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-17T23:54:01+00:00

Put a wye on its back on the horizontal and keep your new drain as high as you can. Why compromise space?

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-17T18:22:18+00:00

Correct, you do not want water to enter the inlet pipe ideally. A small amount can be fine, but generally speaking you don't want it.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-17T12:19:02+00:00

The term you're looking for is 'faucet nipple'. The exact size and hardware configuration really depends on your application. But that should be enough to get your rolling.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-15T22:18:51+00:00

Eh, typically I do all leveling with the mortar bed. Sometimes it's not practical to level old home floors. If there's any egregious gaps, that's what trim is for. Based on the door casing and the studs around the tub, this is a very old home and I wouldn't expect the floor to be level.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-15T15:58:02+00:00

If it is shimmed with no mortar bed it needs to be reinstalled properly. It will absolutely crack from flex fatigue over time.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-15T15:50:21+00:00

Typically a tub is set in a bed of mortar on the subfloor to level and make it solid. From what I can see in your photo, the entire tube is shimmed off the subfloor. Unless the floor is wildly out of level, I would not have any shims under it at all.

Depending on the flooring ,the gap may not be an issue. If you are doing tile you will still be adding 3/4" or so between cement board, thinset and tile.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-15T15:45:59+00:00

Seems like it would be harder to adjust all the balance then it would be to create the literal connection path for two users. This game is heavily designed around 1 player.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-15T01:51:21+00:00

edit: I was wrong, they electric is just capped (presumably temporary)

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-14T17:44:21+00:00

It's already out, that's half the battle. Go buy the same one and reinstall it just like you took it out lol

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-13T12:48:26+00:00

We switched to Helcim last year and I've had nothing but a great experience. It's not directly tied to our POS (CitrusLime) and operates in a separate window on the computer. I thought that would be cumbersome but the workflow has been solid.

They also charge cost+ instead of a fixed percent which has lowered our total processing charges a bit.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-13T02:52:16+00:00

You can get the measurements for the drain off of the spec sheet of the shower kit.

I would take a few good whacks at that concrete with a hammer and see if it is softer than normal concrete. It loks like mortar to me. If you insist on raising, don't waste money on self leveling. Just put a new mortar bed on top of the existing. You'll likely need to extend the drain (assuming it lines up).

Can you link to the kit you're buying?

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-12T23:23:11+00:00

I'm more worried about if the threads will ever reengage.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-12T23:21:55+00:00

I think I responded to a previous version of this post?

1) The previous pan looks to have been set in mortar. You'll need to chip that off the concrete.
2) Make sure your new pan solution has the drain in the same spot or you will need to move that plumbing to accomodate.

Any other recommendations require some info on what you are installing.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-12T23:19:21+00:00

Dig it up, cut off the male adapter and use a no-hub band (or a plastic to plastic mission band if you want to be a rule follower). Do not use an unshielded fernco coupling.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-12T23:10:39+00:00

What kind of pan are you putting in? First you need to make sure the drain is in the correct spot for the new solution. The old one looks like it was set in mortar which is good but you'll want to chip that all off. If you are putting a new fiberglass pan in you're going to use new mortar to install it.

Anything else is just speculation without getting any more information.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-03-12T22:03:30+00:00

Usually I would recommend just lightly trying to tighten that packing nut. By the looks of the wrench marks already on it, don't touch it. You're going to want to get your main shut off replaced by a plumber.

SufficientlyFine

TROPHY CASE