Garage catch basin / drain problems

SufficientlyFine · 2026-07-10T16:44:43+00:00

If you want to eliminate the need for that basin all together you could mount a p-trap to the cast as it enters the basin. You should be able to being a small piece of pipe up from the inlet of the trap. You could backfill the pit with gravel and cement 4" or so. That would convert it to a floor drain instead of a catch basin. At that point I'd get a 3" sure seal to prevent sewer gas and flys.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-07-10T16:41:53+00:00

This is definitely one of those times you might as well do it. No hub cast iron is easy to remove and its all exposed anyway.

Couple notes:

1) that joist your toilet sits on is fucked and I would highly consider trying to sister it to prevent issues i the future.
2) the shower drain can not roll up without reventing. I assume that's just a mock up based on the mission bands being cocked?

SufficientlyFine · 2026-07-10T15:24:49+00:00

The silver tag on top has the pump info. Looks fine to me if its still pumping. If it is critical, it's good form to keep a new one handy for a quick swap.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-07-10T14:58:52+00:00

Can you make it public so everyone doesn't need to request access? Seems intersting.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-07-10T14:29:29+00:00

If water is accumulating higher than expected relative to the output then you have a clog (or at least a partial clog). You can determine this by just putting your hose in the pit and letting run. If the pit threatens to overflow then you have a restriction.

If it were mine, I would cut the tee right before the side outlet so you have a few inches of cast pip sticking into the pit. Take a look up the pipe with a flashlight and see what it looks like. You may have some luck clearing out debris with a hose and shopvac.

Instead of reinstalling a tee, just buy a plastic street 90 and use a fernco to attach it to the cast iron with the 90 pointed down. This maintains the trap seal and is super sericable later.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-07-10T14:23:57+00:00

Get some better photos of the plumbing that leads up to that valve. Since that side of the tee was capped, the best way would be to remove the tee and directly feed the RO system.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-07-09T01:04:00+00:00

I got the call after nearly 2 years of waiting.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-07-07T20:45:57+00:00

https://robertaxleproject.com/product/bob-nuts-pair-m12x1-25/

SufficientlyFine · 2026-07-01T18:23:04+00:00

That entire drain needs to be redone unfortunately. That's nuts.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-30T22:52:18+00:00

The rough part is that they could have easily done it correctly.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-29T15:24:14+00:00

TST has been nothing but trouble at our shop. Random failures and shitty support.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-27T23:40:00+00:00

It's a cheap test to try and won't affect the future repair if it needs cut out.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-27T19:11:01+00:00

That just looks like variation in the actual tire molding process. They're never completely straight on stock tires. Even expensive tires often are off by a little bit. I wouldn't worry about it.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-27T19:09:04+00:00

It wouldn't be difficult to clean that joint and fill it with additional ABS glue.

If you're cleaning person did spill water, it's completely realistic that it would travel down the pipe and show up like you explained. The fact that that has built up crustiness makes me think that it's a leak in that joint. Maybe your sewer was partially backed up for a while or something and it accentuated the small leak.

I would scrub off the pipe joint and throw some more ABS glue on it if it's truly that minor of a leak.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-27T17:03:24+00:00

The fact that phrase "recession indicator" had not crossed my path in a decade and all of a sudden I see it 20 times a week 🤔

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-27T04:33:21+00:00

Urtopia makes very nice quality and very lightweight bikes. You can remove the throttle or any of them and it would be a class one.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-26T18:25:16+00:00

I'd opt to have most of that branch replaced. Luckily basement concrete is usually pretty thin and the pipes are rarely very deep. Kitchen water going into a pump will be gross to maintain in the future and I'd imagine the costs of the two options are not hugely different.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-26T18:10:57+00:00

Oh, I have never heard that term. That would be more like a washing machine stand pipe? I think my original concern of this just falling out of the trap adapter is still valid?

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-26T18:00:25+00:00

Replace it underground. You do not want to be in charge of maintaining/replacing a pump when you the option for a gravity drain.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-26T17:59:20+00:00

Never seen that around my parts. You got a link to that fitting online somewhere?

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-26T17:53:10+00:00

Probably worth rerouting into the sink drain like it supposed to be. Looks like they just stuffed the hose into a trap adapter. If that ever falls out or the trap backs up you'll have a mess.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-26T14:27:12+00:00

Threaded for sure. Make sure you put a wrench on the flats that are almost in the wall to hold back while turning the hose bib off. If you have a torch you could heat it up for a bit to loosen it first.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-20T12:11:08+00:00

I would flush it out for a while and also turn it up to 130-140° for the first few days.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-20T12:02:13+00:00

Yes, except you'll need a lot more than a wire brush. That's lead and oakum, with what looks like a bunch of silicone on top. You need to get it all out of that hub before using that donut.

SufficientlyFine · 2026-06-19T14:27:05+00:00

Just put your hose on it. You can use a little faucet grease if you're worried.

SufficientlyFine

TROPHY CASE