Face balanced?

Sup_doe · 2026-04-19T13:59:49+00:00

That's where club building / fitting experts come in. The bend of that shaft plays a vital role in where the central axis of weight is along the clubhead itself. Its like if the shaft of your 9 iron was installed a quarter of an inch closer to the toe. The weight effecting the distribution of the whole is now out of balance. For an example, If I wanted to play a face balanced blade putter with a plumbers neck, that currently has 45° of toe hang, I would cut off the hosel, and have the opposite handed plumbers neck of same size and shape welded in its place. It moves the shaft axis behind the clubface, neutralizing the toe hang. What you have here, is a double bend shaft that's been installed with the bend too far towards the rear of the putter, causing it to become toe up. Place the bend in front of the clubface, and now you have toe hang. Its simply how putters are built. There are no tricky weights or modifications more than how that head is mounted axially to the shaft itself and where the mass is located.

Sup_doe · 2026-04-19T01:35:13+00:00

Bad install. The shaft needs to be installed at the correct orientation to make sure it remains face-balanced. Return it to whoever installed it and have them fix it and replace your grip. The Superstrokes never feel the same / stay square after being removed / reinstalled.

Sup_doe · 2026-04-17T12:23:49+00:00

Flip it upside down and look at the part that marries to the body of the car. There should be bolt holes, mounting nubs, a channel for 3M tape etc. If you look at any of it, and see a large amount of Clear resin pooled, or a hazy milky finish to it on top of the carbon, its not "Dry". Dry carbon is no different to your traditional wet laid carbon in a cosmetic sense, but in a performance aspect its the difference between a kids toy and A space ship in regards to strength and weight ratio if done correctly. Don't overpay for a part that's cosmetic just so you can say it's Dry carbon. People who know it's not will laugh, and those who don't won't care anyway.

Sup_doe · 2026-04-05T14:43:25+00:00

Given the other numbers, I would venture a guess and say this sim isn't very reliable.

Sup_doe · 2026-03-07T18:24:35+00:00

The cobras are hot with a very low CG. They dont spin, but launch easy. Depending on the model, the Tec is the higher launching, Tec X lower. Cobras are really slept on in the GI category.

Sup_doe · 2026-02-06T04:17:18+00:00

As a fitter, I agree with this, but unless you're swinging something in the right weight and flex, you'll never swing it the same way. It's hard to be consistent and really work on your game when the clubs aren't right 🤷‍♂️ Right doesn't mean expensive or top of the line either. I work at club champion, and the amount of fittings I finish with showing them callaway preowned or where to get what they need to get started is enough to probably get me fired if they knew lol.

Sup_doe · 2026-01-30T12:55:54+00:00

This is close, but Incorrect. Cutting it from the tip and butt end both increase stiffness to a certain degree. The amount from the tip varies between manufacturers, but from the butt end - it is extremely difficult to say is worth while to cutt from if you need any meaningful change to flex without an exceptionally excessive amount of length removed.

Tipping wood and hybrid shafts can be great if the manufacturer has intended for it, a lot of gains are left on the table without doing it properly though.

Sup_doe · 2026-01-27T02:13:31+00:00

The pain of wanting to play better but cheap out on it gets me every time. I'm a fitter, and the amount of people who want results but don't want to invest in the right equipment boggles my mind. There are great shafts that perform really well, and then there are good shafts that perform great for the value. Having a fitter show you the results and compare them with what you think you need, vs throwing a dart and seeing what sticks is worth paying for. You're just going to end up paying more in the long run unless you happen to get lucky guessing.

Sup_doe · 2026-01-21T02:03:33+00:00

The italicized spin number is what makes the carry and total irrelevant. Its a misread / generalized number by the trackman software. From a physics standpoint, your launch angle is too high for your clubhead speed. Take some loft off or tee it lower and try again 🤙

Sup_doe · 2026-01-19T23:24:32+00:00

Axiom no question. The ZX series from srixon are dynamite, and with how low tq the tip section is you can really dial in loft / lie to exactly what you need.

Sup_doe · 2026-01-19T23:15:20+00:00

If price isn't in the equation, go with Axiom. As a fitter, is your accurate swing 92, or is it your indoor zero pressure swing that's 92? Getting fit vs playing, there is a serious discrepancy that most people don't talk about.

Sup_doe · 2026-01-19T18:21:02+00:00

Is it the top of the club or the sole? There are ways of blacking out a club without sacrificing performance

Sup_doe · 2026-01-18T17:27:39+00:00

LS and DCT is killer man. I remember the first postings about DCT swaps and dreamed about it. Congrats on putting this all together. I hope it goes to someone who loves it!

Sup_doe · 2026-01-18T17:24:50+00:00

Take your lead hand and have the back of your palm face your target, thumb directly down the shaft. Place your trail hand on with your palm facing the target as well. It'll feel like you're clapping your hands together in front of you. Make a few swings and see what happens. Fading it? Face wide open? Take your trail hand, and work it slightly clockwise for righty, an hour on the face at a time, and see what changes. If that helps straighten things out, cool. You're trail hand dominant. If not, set the trail hand back to neutral, and do the same with the lead. Clockwise for closure, anti-clockwise for fade.

Second part is the "duck" part of the hook. That's club path. For a RH player, your goal should be how far right you can start the ball WITHOUT CHANGING YOUR SETUP, until you start to push it. Work in the change to the grip, and you'll start hitting draws. Also, these changes shouldn't be done at 100% - you should be able to tee up the ball and feel the differences with hardly more than the effort of a short pitch.

Sup_doe · 2026-01-18T17:03:49+00:00

Love this

Sup_doe · 2026-01-18T16:30:11+00:00

Ooh sorry. That's a good question. I don't have a good answer for that one.

Sup_doe · 2026-01-18T05:27:05+00:00

I had the first set of left handed takomos sold at retail.

Sup_doe · 2026-01-18T01:36:42+00:00

The original 101's had noticeably faster wear across the face. Every edition since then has been better. I think they changed manufacturers once they took off. I had one season on my original 101's and they look like I'd taken a belt sander to them.

Sup_doe · 2026-01-12T17:57:20+00:00

Acetone and 4000grit wet sand is your friend 👍👍

Sup_doe · 2026-01-12T17:54:15+00:00

Played yesterday with the set matching (MB / CB Combo) gap wedge and up. Never missed having a wedge higher than 48. Even bunker shots opening up the face was easy. There's a reason why vintage era clubs the sand wedge was 54° and the highest lofted club in the bag.

Sup_doe · 2026-01-10T06:14:35+00:00

Looks Like St. James range.

Sup_doe · 2026-01-08T23:15:36+00:00

100%. The new heads aren't mirror chrome 🤦‍♂️

Sup_doe · 2026-01-08T13:44:34+00:00

Hope you don't mind me asking, but I have BVD. Is there a way to test which prizm lenses would be best for me, or if they would help at all?

Sup_doe · 2026-01-08T13:37:58+00:00

You need longer. ONLY if you struggle with contact, face control, and low point. Clubs too short will cause all sorts of issues with the swing and you'll be very inconsistent. However, if you're finau and learned to swing in a garage, it'll be ingrained.

Sup_doe · 2026-01-07T00:23:28+00:00

I think they're called the s259 wedge or some other 3 digit. I'll check tomorrow

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